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Something wrong with Transmission


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#1 JakeQT17 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 30, 2016 - 07:31 PM

I was out plowing the driveway for the third time this winter with my 79 PK; everything was going fine, until suddenly I could no longer shift gears. 

 

I had just pushed some snow into the bank, went to put it in reverse and the shift lever felt loose, when I let up on the clutch the engine would simply bog down but that tractor would not move. 

 

I could get the wheels turning again by randomly playing around with the shift lever, but I couldn't find reverse. 

 

Any ideas on how I should start troubleshooting this? 



#2 Gtractor OFFLINE  

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Posted December 30, 2016 - 07:40 PM

Tow it into a warm shop  [hope that is an option for you]

Remove the sheet metal trans cover [very involved - pain in the keester]

and pull the top off the tranny.  They are really simple inside and you should be able to see whats going on in there. 

I believe all parts are available or you may get lucky and not need to spend any money.

Best of Luck!!!!


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#3 tater195 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 30, 2016 - 07:58 PM

Could be a busted shifter fork or sloppy gates and stuck in 2 gears at the same time. If the shifter didnt feel right, my money is on busted fork. Watch for detent balls and springs when you take it apart to fix it. Those little boogers like to run and hide.


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#4 MNGB ONLINE  

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Posted December 30, 2016 - 08:13 PM

Hi Jake, sounds like the shifter has slipped out of position as Kris posted you will need to remove the tunnel to get at the top of the transmission to remove the shifter assy get back in alignment, is your PK a single or dual trans tractor, does it have hydraulics?

Here's some good information on the Warner T 92 tranny 

http://www.speedextr...x_files/t92.htm


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#5 JakeQT17 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 30, 2016 - 08:18 PM

Hi Jake, sounds like the shifter has slipped out of position as Kris posted you will need to remove the tunnel to get at the top of the transmission to remove the shifter assy get back in alignment, is your PK a single or dual trans tractor, does it have hydraulics?

Here's some good information on the Warner T 92 tranny 

http://www.speedextr...x_files/t92.htm

 

 

Thank you much for the tips and the link. It is a singly tranny set-up and it does have hydraulics. I will begin tearing it apart tomorrow, I will post pictures of what I find. 

Thanks again. 



#6 glgrumpy OFFLINE  

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Posted December 30, 2016 - 08:34 PM

Shifter disc/ball on end of shifter shaft gets thin, squeezes out from the rail slots  and jambs, sometimes in two gears at same time, or just stuck in one. Building up ball end with weld and grinding flat on the two sides to fit in those notches on rails and good to go for a long time. Usually lever stuck in one position tho on this. If  you have a floppy lever, maybe it broke?  Pulling off top of trans with shifter is easy, getting metal off to do that is PIA. Happy fixing!  My PK in avatar has that part off for good, easy fixing if any problems for me.


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#7 MNGB ONLINE  

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Posted December 30, 2016 - 08:36 PM

Hi Jake, removing the tunnel isn't as bad as it looks, there are 2 5/16 bolts in the frame rail at the forward end those have to be removed, the seat and seat spring has to be removed as do the 2 bolts bracing the fenders, drain the hydraulic tank and remove the hoses from the pump and the 2 hoses going to the lift cylinder( these can be disconnect at the control valve) remove the battery, the hydraulic tank can stay in place, now with some maneuvering the tunnel will lift up, it does not have to be completely remove to get to the tranny just lifted high enough to get at it and remove the 4  bolts holding the top cover then just lift the top straight up, realign the shifter and replace the top!! now here is where you want to pay attention be sure the trans is in neutral and the shifter is in neutral then carefully watch that the shift forks go into the gear shift collars ( its easy to get one in place and the other not in place the the trans will end up in 2 gears at once) get 2 of the bolts in place so the top does not move try shifting ana the same time roll the tractor forward and back you will have to hold the clutch down if all is good install the other 2 bolts in the top and reassemble the tractor.


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#8 glgrumpy OFFLINE  

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Posted December 31, 2016 - 10:42 AM

Above fixes the temp problem, but if worn, will maybe do same jamb again if not fixed. Seems there is a posting in permanent posts at top of this forum. Or others on PK Yahoo site also. One has to learn to be "Loosey" with your shift throws, follow the H pattern as big as it can be done on your trans and SLOW to make best accurate shifts. I've had them be real tricky to shift with little movements and also have had some you could shift on the fly ( a NO-NO) and would not even grind. They seem to have personality's, heh! Shifting while stopped is best, with clutch in and brake on maybe, at times lower throttle too.



#9 JakeQT17 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 31, 2016 - 08:27 PM

Ok, I got the thing apart and realized that I really don't understand how it works. 

 

As you can see in the picture I think the shift lever is warn at the end. The picture of the inside of the top half shows how it looked when I first pulled the top off of the trans, so it looks like it did slip out of the grooves?

 

A couple of questions. 

Where can I go to figure out how everything is supposed to line up in there? Or better yet, to understand how the transmission works in general. 

 

I don't really know how to put it back together after reshaping the end of the shift lever. Would it be better to just buy a new one?

 

Also..it looks like the previous owner bolted a plastic bottle cap next to the transmission (see picture)...not sure what that's about yet. 

 

Thank You much in advance.

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#10 Gtractor OFFLINE  

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Posted December 31, 2016 - 08:45 PM

The bottle cap is to block off the speedometer cable hole.  Your trans has been replaced with a unit from a Crosley car.  The only difference is the speed-O cable hookup. 

 

You don't need to buy a new one.  They are expensive and you only need a very small [cheap] repair.

 

As best I can tell from the pictures your shift forks are OK.  Likely the only problem is the ball on the end of the shifter is worn.

 

I can't describe what you need.  I could do it but just can't explain.  I'll let someone else that's been in one more than me and more recently than me try to help you. 


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#11 classic ONLINE  

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Posted December 31, 2016 - 09:05 PM

This link to an old post here may help you. Let us know if you continue to have any problems.
http://gardentractor...shifter-button/
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#12 MNGB ONLINE  

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Posted December 31, 2016 - 09:14 PM

Hi Jake did you measure the disc / ball how does it compare to the measurements in the T-92 trans link? The Link "classic" posted should get you to the finish line. When you get the top cover / shifter reassembled then reinstalling the top is not that hard.


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#13 classic ONLINE  

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Posted December 31, 2016 - 10:08 PM

I just came across a schematic of the top cover assembly. This should help during reassembly. As MNGB said, make sure the measurements on your shifter button are close to the ones in the schematic in the link. The notch in your fork and the notch in your fork shaft where the button rides, will be worn a bit. You can weld up your button and file or grind it to fit your notches. You just don't want any binding of the button in the notches as you shift.

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#14 JakeQT17 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 01, 2017 - 08:03 AM

Hi Jake did you measure the disc / ball how does it compare to the measurements in the T-92 trans link? The Link "classic" posted should get you to the finish line. When you get the top cover / shifter reassembled then reinstalling the top is not that hard.

 

Thanks. 

 

How do I know where the gears and forks should be when I resemble it? Since they move around, where should they start of? 



#15 MNGB ONLINE  

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Posted January 01, 2017 - 09:03 AM

Hi, you get both shift rails aligned the shifter button / disc will be in the shifter rail slots that is the neutral position then the gears in the trans need to be lined up so the shifter forks slid into the gear slots, easiest way is to tie down the clutch pedal so the clutch is disengaged  jack up one rear wheel so you can rotate the tire, if the trans gears are in neutral the wheel will rotate freely if in 2 gears you can't rotate  freely 


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