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S-16h tranny


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#1 JRH 009 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 29, 2016 - 11:07 AM

First post from a new member, my 16 hp hydro is 40 this year, cuts .5 acres, and blows 2 drives 150 feet each in a snow belt area. I have had a leak in the parking lock pin and tried to repair with little luck, so have ignored the minor leak for a few years.

Last weak the tractor free wheeled down the drive and had a loss of power. Checked oil and found it low by .5 at. Was fine until the third blow, and pretty much same thing, another .5 at. Can not find any leak spots on drives but it seems to leak into a drip pan over night so suspect the return hose from the diff might be rotted out.

I have only replaced oil once and filter about 4 times. I have a 28 hp Montana that could be fitted with a blower if need be. Problem is the new J D's or others are not as good as the old Ariens in my opinion. My guy who sold me the Montana says the same thing.

My question is, should the sunstrand be rebuilt, or do I just try and repair the leaks. I also noticed the lifts are some what slow and starting to squeal at the limits. A "professional rebuild is a min 1,000., unless I do it it myself. Up till know I do most of my own repair. I keep my shop heated so the implements and tractor are not weather beat.

My apologies for the rambling post, but it is winter.

#2 shorty ONLINE  

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Posted December 29, 2016 - 01:25 PM

Welcome to GTtalk!

For myself I would try to find the leak first before committing to a rebuild. And if you haven't done an oil change for a while, check if that makes a difference.
Could be the pump is worn too.

#3 JRH 009 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 29, 2016 - 03:49 PM

Welcome to GTtalk!
For myself I would try to find the leak first before committing to a rebuild. And if you haven't done an oil change for a while, check if that makes a difference.
Could be the pump is worn too.


After pushing snow around with the other tractor I took the rear weights, and right rear tire off. Found a split in the hose running beneath filter to the diff. So that issue is solved. By pump do you mean the impeller assembly near the filter? I believe Arien's calls it a charge pump. I also noted that the relief pin is not extended very far out of it's base.Perhaps an 1/8" to 3/16".

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#4 shorty ONLINE  

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Posted December 29, 2016 - 04:29 PM

You got it, what I called the pump is the charge pump. Those relief pins do get stuck sometimes, you could pull them out and clean them. I have one where I just reach in with a pliers and pull them up against the stop. I would have to check again how far out they come. It has been a while since I messed with those.
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#5 JRH 009 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 29, 2016 - 07:21 PM

You got it, what I called the pump is the charge pump. Those relief pins do get stuck sometimes, you could pull them out and clean them. I have one where I just reach in with a pliers and pull them up against the stop. I would have to check again how far out they come. It has been a while since I messed with those.




I am going to the dealer tomorrow, need OEM shear pins for the blower anyway. After that I am going to pull both of those valves and soak them in cleaner. Thanks for the help. At some point I'll put a gage on the port to see what the pump output is.

#6 shorty ONLINE  

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Posted December 30, 2016 - 06:53 AM

When it free wheeled for you, did the pump sound different like it was cavitating?
I am curious why it happened. Hopefully you were not on a steep hill at the time.

#7 JRH 009 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 30, 2016 - 11:18 AM

When it free wheeled for you, did the pump sound different like it was cavitating?
I am curious why it happened. Hopefully you were not on a steep hill at the time.

 

I don't believe so,  but I had noise cancelling headphone on.    After I put some oil in,  it seemed to behave.   As well it did not completely free wheel,   there was still some resistance in the drive train.






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