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Rototiller Works!


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#1 OldBuzzard ONLINE  

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Posted June 03, 2011 - 06:29 PM

:dancingbanana: Neighbor has a small garden plot and I asked him if I could try the tiller when he was ready to till it. He said sure, and came over earlier today and said let's give it a try.

Good news is that it does work.

Bad news is that I didn't have any weights and/or chains on the G10, and it things didn't go as well as I would have hoped for. Only tilled one strip.

Too bad no one was taking a vid. Not REALLY knowing what I was doing, I backed up, shifted into first ( I had already moved the belt to low range), engaged the PTO, opened up the throttle, dropped the tiller, eased out the clutch, and AWAAAAAYYYYYY we went.

The first 1-1 1/2' went well. After that, the tiller kinda jumped on top of the soil, and started pushing me down the garden. I pushed clutch in, far enough that the brakes are locked, and it's apickin up speed!!! I'm ahollerin, 'WHOA big fella WHOOOOOOAAAA!!!"...to NO effect. The brakes were locked up, and the tiller was SKIDDING me down garden. I finally reached down and got the PTO disengaged. Good thing too, or I woulda been 1/2 way to Pittsburgh by now.

Figured that I had dropped the tiller WAY too low, so backed up, eased the tiller down as best as I could. That rascal is HEAVY, and for skinny old fart like me, not all that easy to raise/lower with much precision.

Second pass didn't go all that bad, and the third was even better.

I guess if I'm going to till with that G10, I'm going to have to put on the wheel weights, and chains. Well that, or find some 300# dude to run the tractor for me so it has some traction:laughingteeth:

Since I really don't have a need for it, I'm going to offer the tiller for sale.

It's a 22" (18609-01, 18610-01, or 18610-02) and has the 18837-10 tine extension kit on it.

The leveling boards, are not moving. The hinge is pretty frozen up. I've been hitting that with PBblaster, but I think it's going to take some work to get them freed up.

Other than that, it's in good shape. Especially considering that it's been sitting outside.

Would 150.00 be too much to ask?

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#2 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted June 03, 2011 - 06:48 PM

Tiller looks in decent shape.

Thats the first time I ever heard of a gear driven tubeframe being pushed by the tiller.
Mabye the belt was slipping since the G10 dosent have a "true" clutch

#3 OldBuzzard ONLINE  

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Posted June 03, 2011 - 07:09 PM

... Maybe the belt was slipping since the G10 doesn't have a "true" clutch


Possible. I was too busy to look :laughingteeth:

All I know is that I had the clutch/brake pedal pushed as hard as I could, and I was proceeding down the garden.

I'm thinking that it was a matter of weight/traction. I'm only about 150# (after a full meal, and with a brick in each back pocket), so with no wheel weights and/or chains, I'm betting that there just wasn't enough traction to keep the tiller from moving the whole unit. Once the tiller got on top of the ground, it probably lifted the rear tires a bit as well.

In any event, it was exciting fer awhile :smilewink:

#4 Enginerd OFFLINE  

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Posted June 03, 2011 - 07:41 PM

Last year we felled a lot of trees and cleared about 2500sqft for a garden. I tilled the whole area, and it took a long time. There were a lot of roots, and I had to make multiple passes. I started at the first notch and made a pass, dropped another notch, made a pass, etc. After several repeats I had the whole tiller in the ground. I found if I just dropped the tiller in full depth, the tractor bucked a lot and then would stall. Of course, I'm only working with 7hp, so your machine may have more power to keep the tiller (and tractor) moving. Even at full depth in loose soil, if I hit a root it stalls the machine.

This year I retilled a section of the new garden to plant corn, and even though it had been tilled in the fall I still had to make two passes, one at half depth and one fully submerged.

I'm anxious to get my 1050 up and running to try tilling with a more powerful motor. If I can't figure out what is wrong with the Wisconsin, I have a brand new 8hp diesel sitting in a box just waiting to be given a purpose, but that is a thread for another day...

#5 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted June 03, 2011 - 08:16 PM

My Economy Jim Dandy 1612 will do the same thing , really scares the heck out of you !! Anymore I'll plow first then till but you can try tilling backwards , don't laugh it works !! If it tries to push the tractor forwards it will stop right away because it will push on the ground that's already tilled . Al
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#6 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted June 03, 2011 - 08:58 PM

Sounds like you need a lift lever with a slot cut in it for a float. Don't worry about chains but rear wheel weights will definitely help. You basically don't need to be in gear because you will be riding the brake most of the time to go slow enough. My only gripe is how slow the Bolens tillers spin. I am going to try to experiment with some different pulley sizes on the pto shaft to see if we can't get a little more rpm out of ours.

#7 olcowhand OFFLINE  

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Posted June 03, 2011 - 09:02 PM

My Massey 4250 tiller rotates FAST! The Case hydraulic tiller runs slow also. I love how My 4250 really works the dirt. One slow pass is usually all it takes, unless there's lots of weeds.

#8 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted June 03, 2011 - 09:33 PM

The B112 does a great job without weights ( not including my 200). I tilled a new garden spot for a buddy. It was in an old pasture and it took 2 passes to get the grass under, but it did it. Only time it ever came out of the ground is when I hit that pc of concrete and it pulled it up on the surface. THAT was fun.

#9 dadork OFFLINE  

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Posted June 04, 2011 - 05:49 PM

Hey that's one funny story and I love the way you told it! Maybe a couple a more bricks in your pocket?

#10 caseguy OFFLINE  

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Posted June 04, 2011 - 08:15 PM

Hey that's one funny story and I love the way you told it! Maybe a couple a more bricks in your pocket?


:ditto: I really enjoyed the story OldBuzzard. You have a way with words! I use my Troy Built walk behind for tilling right now, but I recently bought a mounted unit for my Wheel Horse. I'm paying attention for when the time comes to put it to use!

#11 LPBolens ONLINE  

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Posted June 05, 2011 - 12:59 PM

With the round top tillers, Bolens specifically warns that the ground must be plowed first. That model tiller is not up to the task of tilling virgin ground; if you do it too much it will break the tiller gear box. Bolens also says "don't back uop wiith the tiller in the ground".

That said, rear wheel weights make a world of difference in tilling, even on plowed ground.
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#12 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted June 05, 2011 - 08:28 PM

With the round top tillers, Bolens specifically warns that the ground must be plowed first. That model tiller is not up to the task of tilling virgin ground; if you do it too much it will break the tiller gear box. Bolens also says "don't back uop wiith the tiller in the ground".

That said, rear wheel weights make a world of difference in tilling, even on plowed ground.


Where did you see that you had to plow first before tilling with the round back tillers? Just curious

#13 massey driver ONLINE  

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Posted June 06, 2011 - 07:25 AM

Good story,made me laugh and think about the times that I'am sure any of us who use tillers on the back of GTs had that happen.Larry




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