Jump to content

Garden Tractors and Parts on eBay



Photo
- - - - -

Ford LGT 100 brake drum removal


  • Please log in to reply
16 replies to this topic

#1 JAM OFFLINE  

JAM
  • Member
  • Member No: 65942
  • 6 Thanks
  • 4 posts
  • Location: Ontario

Posted December 20, 2016 - 02:49 PM

I am currently in the process of removing the transaxle (Peerless model 2306A) from my tractor. In order to disconnect the transaxle from the frame I need to remove the brake drum. I have removed the allen key screw securing the brake drum to the shaft, however, I am having difficulty removing the brake drum. I have tried to pry it off with very little success in moving it, it appears to be seized to the shaft. I am concerned I will do more damage to the inside of the transaxle if I pry to hard. Am I missing something that is preventing the drum from loosening off the shaft, or is it just a matter of applying more force to make it happen. Any suggestions on how to loosen up the brake drum from the shaft?

 

Thanks



#2 tater195 ONLINE  

tater195

    I dont deny your history..... dont deny mine

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 62468
  • 1,940 Thanks
  • 1,294 posts

Posted December 20, 2016 - 03:04 PM

Probably just rusted on real good. Make sure it doesnt have 2 set screws, and fire it up and drive it. Jam on the brakes several times. That should loosen it up. I normally have the problem of the things falling off when I am driving.


  • boyscout862 said thank you

#3 stiemmy OFFLINE  

stiemmy
  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 53712
  • 2,527 Thanks
  • 1,827 posts
  • Location: Freekin cold central WI

Posted December 20, 2016 - 03:10 PM

Please post some pictures so we can help you better;)

Edited by stiemmy, December 20, 2016 - 03:11 PM.

  • boyscout862 said thank you

#4 propane1 OFFLINE  

propane1
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 54307
  • 7,988 Thanks
  • 3,862 posts
  • Location: Charlottetown, Prince Edward Island, Canada

Posted December 20, 2016 - 04:07 PM

Penetrating fluid, some time to let it soak, then a puller may do it.

 

Noel 


  • boyscout862 said thank you

#5 KennyP ONLINE  

KennyP

    FORDoholic

  • Super Moderator
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2253
  • 35,151 Thanks
  • 44,155 posts
  • Location: Collinsville, Oklahoma

Posted December 20, 2016 - 04:15 PM

Which LGT 100 is this? That could help a bunch in finding a solution.


  • boyscout862 said thank you

#6 boyscout862 OFFLINE  

boyscout862
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 8923
  • 11,851 Thanks
  • 8,688 posts
  • Location: N.E. Connecticut

Posted December 21, 2016 - 02:07 AM

Welcome to GTT. Try finding the manual for your tractor in our Manuals Section. A parts diagram may show an extraset screw. Soak the shaft with a penetrating liquid and give it time. I've sometimes had to wait weeks for something to loosen. I was hitting it with PB Blaster every day but it payed off. Try to be gentle with these old machines because parts can be expensive and hard to find. Post pics, check the post above to get pic posting help. Good Luck, Rick

#7 JAM OFFLINE  

JAM
  • Member
  • Member No: 65942
  • 6 Thanks
  • 4 posts
  • Location: Ontario

Posted December 21, 2016 - 09:36 AM

This is an excellent forum and resource, thanks for all the responses! The tractor is a Ford LGT 100 10H.P Gear (its the tractor in my profile), I believe it is a late 70's model, not exactly sure. I have reviewed the available manuals and inspected the brake drum and it appears there is only one set screw. I have started soaking it with penetrating liquid and will continue to do so for the next few days to see if it helps loosen things up, looks like its a waiting game for now. Provided are a few photos of the brake drum and the tractor stripped down. Thanks.

 

IMG_20161221_080536.jpg

IMG_20161220_165852.jpg

IMG_20161221_080519.jpg


  • KennyP, stiemmy and propane1 have said thanks

#8 propane1 OFFLINE  

propane1
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 54307
  • 7,988 Thanks
  • 3,862 posts
  • Location: Charlottetown, Prince Edward Island, Canada

Posted December 21, 2016 - 09:53 AM

Should work for you. Be patient, you'll get it. I'll be watching to see what you use to get it off. I have the same tractor, so I may need to do the same thing some day.

 

Noel 



#9 Bud W OFFLINE  

Bud W

    New Member

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2359
  • 281 Thanks
  • 265 posts
  • Location: Cly, Pennsylvania

Posted December 21, 2016 - 09:55 AM

That looks like a job for a 3 jaw puller, possibly a little heat.


  • propane1 said thank you

#10 SimplyRad OFFLINE  

SimplyRad
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 84410
  • 864 Thanks
  • 689 posts
  • Location: bean town in the worthless nut state

Posted December 21, 2016 - 09:57 AM

I would try a 3 jaw puller if you can get a puller leg behind the hub.



#11 KennyP ONLINE  

KennyP

    FORDoholic

  • Super Moderator
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2253
  • 35,151 Thanks
  • 44,155 posts
  • Location: Collinsville, Oklahoma

Posted December 21, 2016 - 11:17 AM

So it's an 'open side'. Those were from 72-76. Looks like a cast drum. Be careful if you try a puller. Some heat can help.


  • limebuzz said thank you

#12 skyrydr2 OFFLINE  

skyrydr2

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 5032
  • 3,839 Thanks
  • 3,383 posts
  • Location: Gardner, Massachusetts!

Posted December 21, 2016 - 12:06 PM

3 jaw puller on the flats in center! DO NOT PULL ON THE OUTER RING! A small 3 jaw puller should fit. It did on the ones I pulled off.
  • KennyP said thank you

#13 JAM OFFLINE  

JAM
  • Member
  • Member No: 65942
  • 6 Thanks
  • 4 posts
  • Location: Ontario

Posted December 22, 2016 - 09:32 AM

Thanks for all the tips. I am going to borrow a 3 jaw puller this week and give it a go. In the meantime, I am continuing to soak with penetrating liquid.


  • propane1 said thank you

#14 Greasy6020 OFFLINE  

Greasy6020
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 78477
  • 1,221 Thanks
  • 1,185 posts
  • Location: supposedly frozen wastelands of ontario

Posted December 22, 2016 - 10:46 AM

I guess your brake drum is rust welded on there...

I recall reading in farmshow magazine that the best penetration fluid is a 50/50 mix of auto transmission fluid and acetone, it reportedly only took 56 pounds of torque to free a rusted bolt, vs 120-130 for Kroil or pb blaster. Apparently wd40 didn't do much.
  • KennyP and propane1 have said thanks

#15 KennyP ONLINE  

KennyP

    FORDoholic

  • Super Moderator
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2253
  • 35,151 Thanks
  • 44,155 posts
  • Location: Collinsville, Oklahoma

Posted December 22, 2016 - 10:48 AM

I guess your brake drum is rust welded on there...

I recall reading in farmshow magazine that the best penetration fluid is a 50/50 mix of auto transmission fluid and acetone, it reportedly only took 56 pounds of torque to free a rusted bolt, vs 120-130 for Kroil or pb blaster. Apparently wd40 didn't do much.

I use that a lot and have had very good luck!


  • Greasy6020 said thank you




Top