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P K 1614 - need an education on front blade/plow


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#16 a.graham52 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 10, 2017 - 12:41 PM

I have the same setup with hydro. My slide has cotter pins that stop it from moving. Been like that for the last 28 years. Hydro float always worked for me

#17 a.graham52 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 10, 2017 - 12:43 PM

Is there a reason you inatalled the front part of the rod like that and not have the rod go on both sides of the bar? I think that would be the only improvement. Would be stronger too

#18 David Brown OFFLINE  

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Posted January 10, 2017 - 01:08 PM

Is there a reason you inatalled the front part of the rod like that and not have the rod go on both sides of the bar? I think that would be the only improvement. Would be stronger too

The rod he is using is not the stock rod.  Someone at some point made this one.  The original should just be a simple 3/4" round rod that bolts to the hydraulic cylinder just as he shows and goes through the slide block on the blade.  Not the end of the world if you don't have a slide block.  Truth be told, when I plowed with this set up, I usually pinned the slide block fairly solid.  The float in the hydraulics should be all you need.  Nothing wrong with what you have.  If the blade lifts and lowers, you're good to go.



#19 David Brown OFFLINE  

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Posted January 10, 2017 - 01:11 PM

The beauty of this blade set up is that you can play with the linkage until you come up with something that works the way you want.  When I had mine, I made a longer rod and added 2" of material to the bar on the blade where the rod attaches.  By the time I had it the way I wanted it, the blade lifted 9" off the ground.  It was great!



#20 eastcreek OFFLINE  

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Posted January 10, 2017 - 01:24 PM

Is there a reason you installed the front part of the rod like that and not have the rod go on both sides of the bar? I think that would be the only improvement. Would be stronger too

 

I tried it and it looked like the fork was going to bind on the forward bar. The bar was on a bit of an angle between the two attachment points. Does the factory rod have an offset bent into it?



#21 David Brown OFFLINE  

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Posted January 10, 2017 - 01:51 PM

I tried it and it looked like the fork was going to bind on the forward bar. The bar was on a bit of an angle between the two attachment points. Does the factory rod have an offset bent into it?

No, it's just a straight 3/4" rod.



#22 MNGB ONLINE  

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Posted January 10, 2017 - 06:48 PM

Hi Roger, the lift rod is as posted .75" X 46" has 3 7/16" hole in the forward end the aft end has 8 3/16" holes spaced 1" apart, starting.5"  to 9.5" with a 6" X 1" spring and a slider attach bracket, forward holes are 5.5"  3.5" and .5" from the end. I'll post some pics. The forward end just has a 7/16" bolt thur the rod and the lift arm.

HPIM1374.JPG HPIM1376.JPG HPIM1377.JPG HPIM1378.JPG


Edited by MNGB, January 10, 2017 - 08:04 PM.

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#23 eastcreek OFFLINE  

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Posted January 10, 2017 - 07:59 PM

Great, that's just what I need to make one. Can you spec. that slide block for me also? The rod I have works but I'd like to eventually try to make it as stock as possible. (With the possible exception of the hydraulic blade angling, that looks pretty slick.)

 

Thanks, Roger


Edited by eastcreek, January 10, 2017 - 08:00 PM.


#24 MNGB ONLINE  

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Posted January 11, 2017 - 02:06 PM

Hi Roger, the sliding block is   .75" thick X 1.5" wide X 1.75" long slide hole is .75" and the attach pin is 3/8", there is a grease fitting to lube the rod probably not totally needed.

HPIM2208.JPG HPIM2210.JPG


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#25 eastcreek OFFLINE  

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Posted January 11, 2017 - 03:16 PM

Thank you so much! I just have to get some stock and start drilling.



#26 Forester45 ONLINE  

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Posted January 12, 2017 - 08:30 AM

Great information - thanks!






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