The next day, I pulled the head off of the engine and had to cut the valve seats and set the lash. The exhaust valve was stuck open, and the exhaust seat was badly pitted, but cleaned up ok. After bolting the head back on, the engine had great compression, but no spark. I took the magneto apart cleaned everything, and got good spark after that. I took a carb and gas tank from another engine, bolted them on, and the Wisconsin fired up. I took it for a short ride, but the old dried up drive belt was starting to shred and fall apart. After looking the machine over good, I thought that it would be a shame to use the engine on something else, since the Beaver was restorable. The tractor is mostly complete, and fairly easy to restore, so I started disassembling it. I planed a complete overhaul of the engine, so I started checking over other things. The one thing I noticed when I removed the drive belt, was the slop in the jackshaft in the transaxle. I never had one of these transaxles apart, so I disassembled it to see what the problem was. Everything looked in great shape except for the jackshaft and bronze bushings. I took the jackshaft assembly apart to get some measurements, since I knew that I wasn't going to find replacement parts at the mower shop. The jackshaft itself is 3/4" diameter, and the bushings are 3/4" i.d. x 1" o.d. the 10 tooth sprocket is welded to the jackshaft and uses #40 chain. I found an NOS Simplicity 32" snowblower shaft with a woodruff key cut at one end and it was more than long enough to make the new jackshaft. I found a 10 tooth sprocket with a 3/4" bore that wasn't quite right, but would work with some modifications. The bushings are a standard size and we're easy to find. I also found a new left over 6' length of Diamond USA #40 chain for a good price. I cut the snowblower shaft to length then went to work on the sprocket. I had to grind the portion of the sprocket hub off with the set screw since the hub was way too wide. The outer diameter of the sprocket hub was too small, so I had to make a press on sleeve to go over the hub. If I didn't sleeve it, the sprocket hub would have worn the end of the bronze bushing in the housing and caused future problems. Anyway, I found a steel bushing with the correct i.d. in my junk box, but the o.d. was way too large. I don't have my old lathe set up, so I had to do everything with a bench grinder and files. The steel bushing fit snug on one of the old bronze bushings, so I used the bronze bushing as a holder while I ground down the steel bushing on the grinder. After a few hours of tedious work, the sprocket is ready to weld to the shaft,and the transaxle can go back together. The last thing I needed was another tractor project, but this one is a fairly simple one. It will get a complete restoration, and I'll drag it off to some shows next season. Here's a few pics of the tractor and the Jackshaft assembly where you can see the badly worn bushing and rusty worn shaft.
Edited by classic, December 15, 2016 - 06:31 PM.