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Bolens 5020H Duratrac GTX U-joint


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#1 Zekkjacen OFFLINE  

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Posted December 11, 2016 - 08:13 AM

So,  need some help.  I have a spare that I am using right now, but I had the U-joint go out on my drive with the locking ring has gone out on me.  Anyone have experience replacing these?  Or where I can buy a replacement U-joint? 

 

I could go to Napa and find a U-joint to match up, But I would also like to give business to anyone who helps support this hobby.

 

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#2 boyscout862 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 11, 2016 - 09:46 AM

Check with our sponsors on the top of the Forums page. Atleast 2 of them specialize in Bolens. You will find that they are often cheaper than other parts suppliers. Good Luck, Rick

Edited by boyscout862, December 11, 2016 - 09:48 AM.


#3 Cat385B ONLINE  

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Posted December 11, 2016 - 11:33 AM

Betcha a Grain Belt Nordeast that Rick has one: http://gardentractor...ckjackjakexxix/
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#4 Zekkjacen OFFLINE  

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Posted December 11, 2016 - 11:38 AM

I believe I just need a U-joint and not the entire assembly. 



#5 blackjackjakexxix OFFLINE  

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Posted December 11, 2016 - 03:13 PM

I believe I have a good used one if your interested

Edited by blackjackjakexxix, December 11, 2016 - 03:14 PM.

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#6 Cvans ONLINE  

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Posted December 11, 2016 - 03:44 PM

If rick doesn't have one for you I'm just about positive I do. 



#7 Zekkjacen OFFLINE  

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Posted April 14, 2017 - 07:02 AM

I believe I have a good used one if your interested



So I started tearing into that u-joint... one of those non-rebuildable types. I have access to Mills and Lathes... let me know what you want for for one of those couplers

#8 blackjackjakexxix OFFLINE  

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Posted April 14, 2017 - 07:33 AM

So I started tearing into that u-joint... one of those non-rebuildable types. I have access to Mills and Lathes... let me know what you want for for one of those couplers

Sorry sold the last one I had,Rick


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#9 stiemmy OFFLINE  

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Posted April 16, 2017 - 06:57 AM

Is that the same yoke, and joint as the the older Bolens stuff? Here are a couple links for the Weasler 6 series.

Measure the bearing cap diameters, and cross section to be sure of what you have.

http://www.paulbpart...before-shipping

https://www.farmandf...CFV64wAodI30CiQ

Edited by stiemmy, April 16, 2017 - 06:59 AM.

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#10 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted April 16, 2017 - 07:17 AM

If it is a 1"-15 spline these 1900 series Precision U Joint catalog pages may be helpful as they show a 1"-15 spline locking collar yoke and a slip yoke.

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#11 Zekkjacen OFFLINE  

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Posted May 28, 2017 - 08:04 PM

So, I did end up making a universal joint.  It cost me more than I originally expected, but wasn't awful.  I had about $90 in it. I ordered the parts through NAPA @ about $35ea, then they charged $10 shipping for each one.  This didn't include a U-joint, so add $10-12 if you are planning on it.

 

I used a 2-bolt clamp down style rather than the quick connect, as the 2000 Eliminator used the locking collar style.  the other end is the 3/4 x 7/8 shaft opening.

 

I have 3 of the locking collar u-joints.  I am rebuilding them with new end-cap bearings, as these are non replaceable u-joints.  I'll have $20 in rebuilding each of them.


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#12 Paulgo OFFLINE  

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Posted May 30, 2017 - 10:13 AM

So, I did end up making a universal joint.  It cost me more than I originally expected, but wasn't awful.  I had about $90 in it. I ordered the parts through NAPA @ about $35ea, then they charged $10 shipping for each one.  This didn't include a U-joint, so add $10-12 if you are planning on it.

 

I used a 2-bolt clamp down style rather than the quick connect, as the 2000 Eliminator used the locking collar style.  the other end is the 3/4 x 7/8 shaft opening.

 

I have 3 of the locking collar u-joints.  I am rebuilding them with new end-cap bearings, as these are non replaceable u-joints.  I'll have $20 in rebuilding each of them.

It would be really nice if you posted some step-by-step pics and part numbers of your u-joint rebuilding. Tons of us out here have the same problem.  Paul


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#13 Zekkjacen OFFLINE  

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Posted May 30, 2017 - 10:52 PM

I plan to.  Just not there yet. somewheres around GTtalk I posted the bearings I am using... Koyo


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#14 Zekkjacen OFFLINE  

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Posted May 31, 2017 - 12:30 AM

Okay,  so here is what I have so far.  This weekend I hope to have more.

 

Parts: Koyo M-661  I’ve Purchased on both ebay and amazon. http://www.ebay.com/...=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

 

Remove Caps (additional pics later.  Easy enough to figure out).  Screwdriver and hammer.  Puncture, insert, pry out.

 

Once caps are removed from either side, take a punch and tap out the pins straight through to remove. Don’t damage the pins (yes, I’m sure everyone understands that, but you never know who will be reading this in 5 years).

Clean up the openings for the new bearings.

 

You could grease the bearings as they are and put it back together and hopefully it will last you another 20-30 years…. But I will chuck these pins up in a lathe and drill a hole through each pin.  I’ll also drill and tap the block for a grease fitting.

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Edited by Zekkjacen, May 31, 2017 - 12:32 AM.

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#15 Zekkjacen OFFLINE  

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Posted June 03, 2017 - 02:36 AM

Ain't happen'n this weekend...

 

Also,  does anyone know offhand if these pins would be hardened?  I haven't tested them yet.






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