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1975 PK - getting it running


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#16 LA2TN OFFLINE  

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Posted December 13, 2016 - 05:41 PM

Engine oil - This may be a topic that has already been discussed.  I searched and didn't find anything definitive.  I have the new battery hooked up, new fuel filter, and gas tank is cleaned out.  I want to change the oil and clean the carb before I try to fire her up.  The Kohler K321 manual states that a straight 30-weight oil is preferred and that SAE 10W-30 and 10W-40 are not recommended above 32 degrees.  I live in North Louisiana and it will likely be above 32 degrees most of the winter with the exception of a few cold nights and maybe some cool days with a cold front.  Other than that, it will be over 32 degrees.  What kind of oil would be the best to use?  I have several quarts of SAE 10W-30 but according to the Kohler manual, I should not use that.  Anybody have any insight?  I know a lot you guys live in northern climates where it's colder.  Can you still buy straight 30-weight oil?  



#17 MNGB ONLINE  

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Posted December 13, 2016 - 06:10 PM

Hi I use Mobil ! 10W 30 year around in my engines not a problem, one thing to keep in mind the Kohler manual was written 40+ yrs ago and oil have changed very much since back then, multi-grade oils were new and not anywheres near what they are now, and yes you can still buy 30 wt detergent oil.



#18 LA2TN OFFLINE  

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Posted December 14, 2016 - 09:57 AM

MNGB - thanks for the input!  I filled her up with 10W-30, put a new air cleaner on, put some gas in the tank and tried to fire her up.  However, I was not successful.  I believe the problem is no fuel to the carb.  After further inspection, it appears the fuel pump is leaking as there was fresh gas coming from the seal of the pump.  I had a box of parts that my dad had with the tractor and in that box was a new Kohler fuel pump (plastic).  I guess my dad knew the fuel pump was bad or going bad and bought a new fuel pump to put on it.  If I have time this evening after work, I'll try to get the new fuel pump on and try to fire her up again.  This is starting to get exciting.  I can't wait to hear this old tractor fire up and run again.  It's been a very long time.  Getting it running is just the start as I know there are many other things that need to be done to get this machine back into working order.  One step at a time...   

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#19 MNGB ONLINE  

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Posted December 14, 2016 - 12:49 PM

Hi I would also replace those old fuel hoses for new it its been sitting for sometime they could be swelling shut inside.



#20 LA2TN OFFLINE  

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Posted December 14, 2016 - 05:17 PM

Hi I would also replace those old fuel hoses for new it its been sitting for sometime they could be swelling shut inside.

 

MNGB - I was going to do that, but they seemed to be in decent shape just from a visual inspection.  It looked like my dad replaced those sometime back.  However, I think I will replace them just to ensure everything is new and I won't need to worry about that in the future.  



#21 todapuckett OFFLINE  

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Posted December 14, 2016 - 11:43 PM

LA2TN- First welcome.  As others have said, you have stumbled into a wealth of knowledge here.  I got a '76 PK earlier this year and have gone through the same things you are in getting her running.  Couldn't have done it without the input from the people here.

 

Go ahead and replace those fuel lines while you have them disconnected from the pump.  Fuel line is cheap, and you are already halfway there.  The new plastic pump was a disappointment to me, it leaked and the pump lever cracked.  Fortunately I took it off for the leak and that is how I discovered the crack in the lever.  Here is a link to a company that sells rebuild kits for that original pump on the motor. http://www.then-now.com/   I think the kit was $28, well worth it even if you just get it and keep it with the old one for when you need to replace it again.  You will need to take the original apart to see which one you have, but the link has pictures of the 3 types so you can match it up.  

 

While you have it down for maintenance, and parts on that side of the engine off,  I would also recommend adjusting the valves. There are several good you-tube video on the task, it is simple, and the specs are in the Kohler manual you can download for free on this site.

 

Enjoy


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#22 MH81 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 15, 2016 - 07:29 AM

Little late on the oil input, but I would use that 10-30 as a short term cleaner and after it's running for a while, change it to straight sae30. If it's been sitting for a while, a 2 running hour flush change is a good idea IMHO.

Manufactured before better multi viscosity oils, Kohler wanted what is best for the engine. The newer stuff is supposedly better, but with where you live, 30 wt will work fine. I have engines up here tha mainly get summer use with straight 30 in. I bet you I could start one of them now... it's 10F this morning. Might take a little coaxing, but she'd go.
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#23 JBRamsey ONLINE  

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Posted December 15, 2016 - 10:36 AM

It would get a new positive cable. Those clamp-on battery clamps are ok for short term but they won't last. We called them "trouble ends" when I worked at the parts house.

#24 LA2TN OFFLINE  

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Posted December 15, 2016 - 05:33 PM

LA2TN- First welcome.  As others have said, you have stumbled into a wealth of knowledge here.  I got a '76 PK earlier this year and have gone through the same things you are in getting her running.  Couldn't have done it without the input from the people here.

 

Go ahead and replace those fuel lines while you have them disconnected from the pump.  Fuel line is cheap, and you are already halfway there.  The new plastic pump was a disappointment to me, it leaked and the pump lever cracked.  Fortunately I took it off for the leak and that is how I discovered the crack in the lever.  Here is a link to a company that sells rebuild kits for that original pump on the motor. http://www.then-now.com/   I think the kit was $28, well worth it even if you just get it and keep it with the old one for when you need to replace it again.  You will need to take the original apart to see which one you have, but the link has pictures of the 3 types so you can match it up.  

 

While you have it down for maintenance, and parts on that side of the engine off,  I would also recommend adjusting the valves. There are several good you-tube video on the task, it is simple, and the specs are in the Kohler manual you can download for free on this site.

 

Enjoy

 

toda - great website!  I was a bit disappointed in the plastic fuel pump as well.  Putting a plastic fuel pump on a solid state machine seems a little ridiculous.  I'm going to order the rebuild kit and rebuild the original fuel pump.  I've never rebuilt a fuel pump but I'm sure I can figure it out.  Adjusting the valves is something I've never done before either.  I've learned a lot by youtube, maybe I can figure it out.  And your right, there are folks on this forum that have a wealth of knowledge.  Thanks for the tips!



#25 LA2TN OFFLINE  

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Posted December 15, 2016 - 05:35 PM

It would get a new positive cable. Those clamp-on battery clamps are ok for short term but they won't last. We called them "trouble ends" when I worked at the parts house.

JB - I actually took the battery back and returned it for a 350 CCA garden tractor battery that has different connections.  It was less than half the price.



#26 MH81 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 16, 2016 - 07:12 AM

Our site sponsors can get you pumps, rebuild kits, nearly anything for those engines.




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