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#16 Deerlope OFFLINE  

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Posted December 04, 2016 - 08:14 AM

I know I'm "hijacking" the topic, however, I have an 1477 Bolens with a S14D Wisconsin that was running and now won't - it has spark and fuel, I bought a new coil, wire and plug and still nothing - there is a problem with the compression release but I'm thinking there's some kind of timing issue 

any thoughts since you think the Wisconsin are the best - when it was running, it was great, now.....

 Does yours still have the electronic ignition module on it?  


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#17 classic ONLINE  

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Posted December 04, 2016 - 04:19 PM

Firedude, it was great when it was running, but now it isn't great? Your tractor is approaching 50 years old, so a number of things can be keeping it from running. My point regarding the best small engines ever made comes from the engineering and high quality of the machining of these engines. Any old engine will quit running if something is amiss. If I had a choice between an NOS early Kohler, Briggs, Tecumseh, or a Wisconsin engine, I would go with the Wisconsin.
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#18 wilberj OFFLINE  

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Posted December 04, 2016 - 04:26 PM

Firedude, it was great when it was running, but now it isn't great? Your tractor is approaching 50 years old, so a number of things can be keeping it from running. My point regarding the best small engines ever made comes from the engineering and high quality of the machining of these engines. Any old engine will quit running if something is amiss. If I had a choice between an NOS early Kohler, Briggs, Tecumseh, or a Wisconsin engine, I would go with the Wisconsin.

 

She is almost 70 being born in 1948...


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#19 classic ONLINE  

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Posted December 04, 2016 - 04:48 PM

Wilberj, another member is having problems with an S14D engine on a Bolens 1477. He mentioned this on the first page of this thread, so there is a bit of a misunderstanding here. I have no experience with the ignitions on the later Wisconsin engines, since I'm working on earlier stuff with the Fairbanks Morse and Wico magnetos. I'm really impressed with these old Wisconsin engines. I was talking with deerlope and he has an AKS on his Ridemaster. I mentioned that it would be a good idea to remove the base from the engine and clean out the oil pump assembly. I've seen the screens on these and the old Briggs ZZ engines plugged with sludge.
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#20 Deerlope OFFLINE  

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Posted December 05, 2016 - 02:26 PM

Could someone please tell what thread is on the starter rope sheave on my AKS Wisconsin engine. I am thinking that the sheave is screwed to the crank shaft , is it right or left hand, or is it held on by some other means.



#21 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted December 05, 2016 - 02:50 PM

Could someone please tell what thread is on the starter rope sheave on my AKS Wisconsin engine. I am thinking that the sheave is screwed to the crank shaft , is it right or left hand, or is it held on by some other means.

 

Aluminum sheave is screwed onto the engine crankshaft and regular right hand thread


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#22 firedudetl1 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 05, 2016 - 05:44 PM

since I'm confusing things, I'm going to do a new post to get "everyone" in on the topic - engine does have the solid state ignition

thanks


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#23 Deerlope OFFLINE  

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Posted December 08, 2016 - 03:43 PM

It is coming apart slowly. I finally broke down and purchased me a blasting cabinet. It should be here about a week

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#24 Husky ONLINE  

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Posted December 09, 2016 - 12:18 PM

I am amazed at the progress you have made so far on this machine. Looks like you will have another 1st class addition to your restored collection. Nice post with pictures here.


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#25 Deerlope OFFLINE  

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Posted December 09, 2016 - 06:17 PM

The back half is now separated and I welded up a support bracket to keep the front heavy part from tipping over. The gear unit will be the hardest to strip and clean. I am hoping to be able to get it outside on a warm day for sand blasting.



#26 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted December 09, 2016 - 06:25 PM

The back half is now separated and I welded up a support bracket to keep the front heavy part from tipping over. The gear unit will be the hardest to strip and clean. I am hoping to be able to get it outside on a warm day for sand blasting.

 

When I opened the gear case on mine the old grease on the bottom was like tar!


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#27 Deerlope OFFLINE  

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Posted December 10, 2016 - 06:49 AM

Back in the days when they were being used everyday I would change the gear oil every 3 months. That 140 weight is going to be very heavy after a few months of use.



#28 jdcrawler OFFLINE  

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Posted December 10, 2016 - 08:27 AM

A man that goes by JD crawler has one with a head light on it and it is original equipment, so is the generator that he has on it.

 

 

 

Rays setup is not a factory set up the only part that is like factory is the generator.  

 

The headlight assembly on my Ridemaster is a copy that I made up up using a headlight bucket from a 40's Farmall tractor and a generator from the old Whizzer  motor bikes.

 

I've tried for a long time to find an original light kit but still haven't come across one.


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#29 Deerlope OFFLINE  

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Posted December 10, 2016 - 08:55 AM

Thanks for the clarification. You just never know unless it come right from the man that put it together.


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#30 Deerlope OFFLINE  

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Posted December 22, 2016 - 10:35 AM

I do not see the 1/4" thick piece listed anywhere in either the 35 AA or 35 AB manual. It is mounted as I have it pictured and the wheel is solely supported by the lug bolts. Could this be something that someone had made to space the wheels out more.

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