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bought a "basket case 124"


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#1 ad356 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 31, 2011 - 09:51 PM

i bought the machine for 200 bucks. mainly i bought it for the 3pt hitch and tiller, which is all complete and there. now i'm starting to rip apart the rest of the tractor. im tearing it completely down to a bare frame, at which point im going to decide to restore it completely to like new or part it out and junk it. i would rather not junk it, since these tractors will become fewer and fewer as people junk them out for a buck. the machine is complete but a mess. it sat outside for at least 5 years probably allot longer then that. the engine is questionable, i was told it will run but i dont know if it will or how well it will. is there anyway to determine that without rebuilding at this point AND without yet running it. the transmission also seems questionable, doesnt seem to want to shift into any of the gears. the shiter will move back and forth but will not go into any of the gears. i realize the transmissions in these tractors are very strong, so it would surprise me if it was bad. as i said this tractor is complete but also a complete mess. the blower housing was buzzing when i started working on it. i had to spray the piss out of it with bug spray, i dont really feel like getting stung. well as i said i would rather restore it but if it isnt worth fixing it i will sell parts.

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Edited by ad356, May 31, 2011 - 09:59 PM.


#2 dryrun OFFLINE  

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Posted May 31, 2011 - 10:02 PM

ad356, great find!!! Three point alone worth more than that. Good score, and in my opinion, restore it if possible.

Regards, George.

#3 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted May 31, 2011 - 10:04 PM

ad356, Welcome to GTtalk, That is a good looking Cub to me. I see a lot of good things there, sheet metal looks to be in good shape, not all beat up. Those old K-301 Kohlers are very tough and I would be suprised if it didn't fire right up after you clean the carb and tank, and ad new gas to it. I would also clean the points, and check the oil in the gearbox for water, if it hasn't ran on a while, you can drain it and get almost all the water out before it gets mixed it the oil. I would atleast try to get it to run an dcheck out the tiller before thinking about parting. Hope this helps....


BTW, To me, that is a almost running complete Cub with tiller...But thats what I see...Have fun..

#4 ad356 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 31, 2011 - 10:47 PM

one of the good things is that i have the 147 up and running meaning that i can tear this tractor down to the bare frame and not have to worry about something to mow the lawn with. k301's are great engines, but 40 years does take its toll and the eventually need an overhaul. i bought it because i wanted a tiller for my 147 NO INTENTION of parting out the tiller. right now im tearing it down to the bare frame, not with the intention of parting but with the intention of restoration. i have already sandblasted allot of the small parts, and let me tell you would be surpised(maybe not) of how well the rust cleans up. plenty of solid metal underneath the rust. i might put the engine on the block, pull the head and inspect the combustion chamber and valves. maybe i will pull the oil pan, pull the rod cap and see how the rod journal looks. right now im not in a hurry to put it back together as a rusted mess.

the good news is that the guy that i got this machine from, i have been working for him. i actaully worked this machine off, 20 hours of labor in exchange for everything you see. he has a "cub cadet hill" probably 30 of these tractors with still many good usable parts i have acess to for cheap(i can work it off). right now i can see that the hood is going to have to be replaced.

i also bought an HVLP gun so i can start learning how to paint, the right way. im sick of rattle cans.

i should also mention that i have a jd112 with a very healthy running k301 that i can transplant into this tractor if needed. when i mean healthy its very healthy. its a kohler shortblock with maybe 3 years of use on it. i kind of like the cubs better than my 112. shaft drive rocks. i would pull the engine from the 112, put it on the cub and sell the 112 minus the engine. i would also sell all of my jd attachments. i have a 42 blade, 38 deck, 37a blower, 31 tiller, and a 47 deck. i could get 900-1,000 bucks for all of that stuff and put it back into the cubs. i like having the 2 cubs since all of the attachments can be used on either machine. it kind of stinks having to have 2 sets of attachments. the only thing missing from my cub cadet collection would be a blade, and i know where i could get one of those really easily.

jd 112 vs. cub cadet gear drive, i think the cub cadet is a better/stronger machine, but thats just my opinion

#5 mjodrey OFFLINE  

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Posted June 01, 2011 - 04:36 AM

I'd say you have something to work with there.It appears to be fairly straight,a not much rust.

#6 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted June 01, 2011 - 04:48 AM

I think you made a good purchase. Just needs some TLC. I would try to get the mechanicals working before a complete tear-down. You don't want to have to take it back apart after paint.

#7 ad356 OFFLINE  

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Posted June 01, 2011 - 05:00 AM

not allot of rust? i thought it was pretty rusty. you guys mean to tell me that there is much worse than that? i thought that when they get to the point this machine is at they all pretty much look just as run down

#8 mjodrey OFFLINE  

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Posted June 01, 2011 - 05:04 AM

When I say not a lot of rust,I am comparing it to what you would find up here where I live.
There are not rust holes in it are there?It looks to me like it is just surface rust.

#9 ad356 OFFLINE  

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Posted June 01, 2011 - 08:52 AM

i didnt think these machines rotted out. i have never seen one that was completely rotted out. they were made out of extremely high quality steel. they also are not exposed to massive amounts of road salt like a car. yeah its pretty solid but i thought they were almost all like that still.

i do have a couple questions.
why does it seem like this thing will not shift into gear? i know the shift patern on the cub cadets but it wont go in or out of gear. lever will move back and forth but not up or down
how do i get the front axle pin out? is that just a matter of driving it out with a hammer?

#10 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted June 01, 2011 - 09:28 AM

You bought the creeper at a bargain price & got a tractor & tiller thrown in for free! The trans likely is rusty on the shaft, so the gears can't slide free. Will be quite the work getting all in order, but worth it in the end! Yep, drive that pin out. It's just frozen to the bushing, and likely many more parts will be that way. Patience, PB Blaster, possibly some heat, and if that doesn't work, a big freaking hammer! LOL Look forward to following this restore.
Please take plenty of pics & do frequent technical updates. When you have completed it, one of us can publish it as an article.

#11 ad356 OFFLINE  

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Posted June 01, 2011 - 09:54 AM

whats a creeper worth? i was guessing around 150 bucks. i know i got this machine for a steal, thats why i worked my butt off because i knew the tiller alone was worth at least 200 bucks. my plan is to fully restore this machine, then i will have something else to run my attachments with. then is on to the mighty 147 that i like so much. fully restore the 147. the 147 runs well(has a rebuilt k301, i know its not the correct engine but it works), but it has its issues. a slow leak in the hydro, worn out paint, minor rust, bad dash panel, bad hood, and worn out decals. i already have a replacement hood and dash panel i have collected. the really surprising thing for me on the 124 is that the dash panel is in good condition. not major cracks, or chunks missing like the one i currently have on the 147. after the 124 is done, i might end up mowing with it for a while, while the 147 is getting its redo.

Edited by ad356, June 01, 2011 - 09:59 AM.


#12 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted June 01, 2011 - 02:41 PM

The creepers can go anywhere between $150 to $225 usually. I would definitely restore it, that thing is in better shape then the Cub Cadet 122 I bought and I paid $300 for it and all I got with it was a mower deck, and a snow blade, oh and it has the creeper also. You definitely got one heck of a deal :D

#13 ad356 OFFLINE  

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Posted June 03, 2011 - 12:19 AM

i have the tractor stripped almost down to a bare frame. grill, engine, steering, complete fender assembly, dash tower and rockshaft have all been removed. getting ready to have it stripped down to a bare frame. i plan on purchasing a wet sandblaster that i can use with my 2300 PSI pressure washer. the kit can be had from northerntool for 60 bucks. i will wet sandblast the frame. all small components will be done in my sandblasting cabinet. the visible surfaces will be done with the DA(insides of fenders) and the outside surfaces that are not seen will be done in my sandblasting cabinet. i dont want to sandblast the outsides of the fenders, i dont want to burn the metal where it will be obvious.




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