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#16 Bolens 1000 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 10, 2016 - 11:42 AM

When I started restoring I went with the low level stuff myself but now that I am more experienced I am comfortable using the paint gun and buy the good stuff with a hardener and reducer that lays really nice and  that will last many more years than the rustoleum products, which in my opinion are entry level products so to speak. 


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#17 Bruce Dorsi ONLINE  

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Posted November 10, 2016 - 01:50 PM

If using hardeners, be VERY careful.

 

Most hardeners contain isocyanates which are EXTREMELY  hazardous to your health.  ....These can be absorbed through skin as well as mucous mebranes and lungs.

 

Proper clothing, eye, and respiratory protection is needed. 

 

I know of two people who almost died from iso exposure.   .....One of them painted his car using proper safety gear and ventilation.  ....However, his bedroom was above the garage where he painted, so he was exposed to the iso's while he was sleeping. 

 

The other fellow sprayed indoors while wearing just a half-face respirator.  ...It was determined the iso's were absorbed through his skin and eyes.

 

Lower levels of exposure are not fatal, but make a person more sensitive to subsequent exposures.


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#18 Bolens 1000 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 10, 2016 - 01:58 PM

If using hardeners, be VERY careful.

 

Most hardeners contain isocyanates which are EXTREMELY  hazardous to your health.  ....These can be absorbed through skin as well as mucous mebranes and lungs.

 

Proper clothing, eye, and respiratory protection is needed. 

 

I know of two people who almost died from iso exposure.   .....One of them painted his car using proper safety gear and ventilation.  ....However, his bedroom was above the garage where he painted, so he was exposed to the iso's while he was sleeping. 

 

The other fellow sprayed indoors while wearing just a half-face respirator.  ...It was determined the iso's were absorbed through his skin and eyes.

 

Lower levels of exposure are not fatal, but make a person more sensitive to subsequent exposures.

 

:ditto:  That hardener is bad stuff , but It seems the more toxic a product is the better it works

I always paint my stuff outside


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#19 veizter OFFLINE  

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Posted November 10, 2016 - 09:33 PM

I just used this paint, in a rattle can , to spray my seat/ rear fenders on my Bolens qt . it came out beautiful . I followed the directions on the can . I used the IH color and it matched perfect . it came out so nice now I'm going to do my hood .


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#20 SC Farmer OFFLINE  

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Posted November 13, 2016 - 08:15 AM

Hmmmm. I've used Majic Paint on four or five tractor refresh projects, using IH White, Cub Cadet Yellow, and Farmall Red.  While I agree that using a spray gun set-up is most economical and best for large areas, I have always used rattle cans.  I have never had a problem with this paint and actually seek it out as it covers really well.  I do a lot of surface prep.  If it's a rust issue on the piece I'm restoring, I strip it to the bare, shiny metal, then clean the surface with either acetone or alcohol (sometimes dipping it in muriatic acid for tough rust), then prime with self-etching paint (also in a rattle can).  After that sets up, I apply light coats of the color until I get the coverage I want.  If it's just faded paint on the piece, I lightly sand it, then clean it with acetone, then paint with a primer and then the Majic. Sure, if you paint too heavy, it will run (I've done that too), but patience has always resulted in a good paint job.  It helps that I live in an area where the temperature is usually right for paint application too, I suppose (70-80 degrees F. would be ideal).  Humidity is also a consideration,.

 

I take reasonable precautions when working with paint/chemicals, particularly the muriatic acid, but I don't go to extremes.  I've been around much more dangerous things than this stuff, and don't worry about it much.


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#21 Zekkjacen OFFLINE  

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Posted November 13, 2016 - 09:08 AM

Surface prep. #1

 

I had a nice layer of primer.  Also, paint other parts with Rustoleum and had no problem.  This was fresh sandblasted, brake cleaner, dried, primed, dried, then painted.


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#22 veizter OFFLINE  

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Posted November 13, 2016 - 09:37 AM

I just painted my hood yesterday with this paint . I sanded it with 80 grit, then 220 grit , wiped it clean , all the bad spots were bare metal . it was 50 degree's out , put one light coat on , waited two hours and applied another . will put one more coat on today . it looked great yesterday after two coats.  I have all the spray guns and tools , but lets face it , most of the guys working on these tractors want a working tractor , not a show piece so we go with a rattle can because it's cheaper . rattle cans work the best for me, and tractor supply paint gives me a pretty nice finish .  


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#23 johndeereelfman OFFLINE  

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Posted November 13, 2016 - 11:18 AM

I use nothing but rattle cans, however I use a brand specially formulated for farm and garden tractors. That is all this company makes, major tractor brand paint and colors. If they don't carry your specific color, they will custom mix it for you. All of their pain is enamel paint, and they offer a acrylic lacquer clear coat that gives a great finish. So far I have used their John Deere Green and Yellow, IH Red and White, their Allis Chalmers Orange and Cream, and their Clear Coat and have had nothing but good results. I won't go back to using any other brand.

 

Calebs 2 update 003.JPG IMG_20160803_192118917.jpg

 

 

Here are some of my results:

 

IMG_20161007_165230306.jpg IMG_20161007_170207211_HDR.jpg

Miscellaneous 14 309.JPG

 

 

And here are the results from a test hood that I sprayed using the Majic Brand paint from TSC a couple of years ago:

 

Miscellaneous 14 316.JPG

 

 

As said before, if you take your time, prep well, and have some patience, you can achieve a really nice finish from rattle cans. You just have to be willing to put in the extra effort. 


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#24 shorty ONLINE  

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Posted November 13, 2016 - 03:48 PM

I enjoy using Tallmans. Sprays very even.
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#25 SC Farmer OFFLINE  

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Posted November 13, 2016 - 07:44 PM

I use nothing but rattle cans, however I use a brand specially formulated for farm and garden tractors. That is all this company makes, major tractor brand paint and colors. If they don't carry your specific color, they will custom mix it for you. All of their pain is enamel paint, and they offer a acrylic lacquer clear coat that gives a great finish. So far I have used their John Deere Green and Yellow, IH Red and White, their Allis Chalmers Orange and Cream, and their Clear Coat and have had nothing but good results. I won't go back to using any other brand.

 

attachicon.gifCalebs 2 update 003.JPGattachicon.gifIMG_20160803_192118917.jpg

 

 

Here are some of my results:

 

attachicon.gifIMG_20161007_165230306.jpgattachicon.gifIMG_20161007_170207211_HDR.jpg

attachicon.gifMiscellaneous 14 309.JPG

 

 

And here are the results from a test hood that I sprayed using the Majic Brand paint from TSC a couple of years ago:

 

attachicon.gifMiscellaneous 14 316.JPG

 

 

As said before, if you take your time, prep well, and have some patience, you can achieve a really nice finish from rattle cans. You just have to be willing to put in the extra effort. 

Totally agree!  I painted my '51 Farmall Cub entirely with this paint and had super results. See my gallery for pics. And yes, it took a LOT of cans, but I'd do it again.

 

Here's a 18423-01 42" deck off my 1253 done with rattle cans, before and after

 

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Edited by SC Farmer, November 13, 2016 - 08:41 PM.

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#26 karel OFFLINE  

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Posted November 14, 2016 - 06:14 AM

I had a nice layer of primer.  Also, paint other parts with Rustoleum and had no problem.  This was fresh sandblasted, brake cleaner, dried, primed, dried, then painted.

Thanks, I'll take your advice, someday!IMG_0116.JPG


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