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ST110 Bolens Suburban Carburetor Help Needed


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#1 missing link OFFLINE  

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Posted October 29, 2016 - 06:03 PM

Hello All,

 

New member here, happy owner of 3 (!!!) Bolens Suburban tractors.  I realize they are not as prized as the tube frame models but they work great and I use them constantly!  Additionally, I purchased the 16HP model and rescued the other two from the dump and side of the road!

 

I have an ST110 that has an 11HP Briggs engine in it.  Pictures attached.  Engine model is 253707-0144, carb PN 394038 or 490149, neither of which is currently available as a replacement.  

 

The ST110 runs good sometimes, and other times it needs choking, or adjustments to the screws on the bottom of the float bowl or some other adjustment screw on the top of the carb.  I took it apart and cleaned it and rebuilt it as best I could and made new gaskets.  It runs better than it did when I got it but not great.  It runs better under load.  Sometimes it runs better with choke, and other times starts sputtering and the float bowl adjustment screw needs tweeking.  It is not consistent.  

 

Is there a replacement carb I can use despite not being a factory fit?

 

Is there a way to adjust this thing so that I do not have to keep messing with it?  

 

Pictures of the fleet attached (Left-to-Right):

 

1985 ST110 11HP Briggs with manual transmission and mower deck (current problem child)

1989 ST100 10HP Briggs with manual transmission and mower deck

1984 ST160 16HP Briggs 2 cylinder with hydrostatic drive, mower deck and single stage snowblower

 

Picture of offending engine and carb....

 

Attached Thumbnails

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#2 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted October 29, 2016 - 06:28 PM

Welcome to GTT :wave:

 

When you say you cleaned the carb did you blow it out with compressed air and also install a carb kit with new needle valve and jets?  If not then your problem may still be easily solved. Are you sure you have a good seal at the carb bowl and intake so your not sucking in air?

 

I can get you carb kits as well as new carbs , just message me if your interested.

I would suspect your old carb is still saveable though

 

By the way nice collection!



#3 missing link OFFLINE  

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Posted October 29, 2016 - 06:47 PM

Dr. Bolens,

 

Thanks for the compliment!

 

I took the whole thing apart and cleaned it up.  It had condensation issues when I got it and would run really bad.  I cleaned and polished the parts and got rid of the corrosion, using small wire brushes, rags, and carb cleaner.  The gasket around the float bowl was made of a thin bead of red Permatex, sculpted to a smooth surface and allowed to cure for two days before assembly.  

 

If you have a new unit that might be the cure.  Otherwise, simply knowing what to adjust or replace might do the trick.



#4 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted October 29, 2016 - 06:50 PM

Set the screws at about 1-1/2 turns out and allow the engine to warm up about 15 minutes before adjusting, if your making adjustments on a cold engine you will never get an accurate setting

Do the main bottom bowl adjustment first before the top idle screw for a final adjustment.



#5 boyscout862 ONLINE  

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Posted October 29, 2016 - 07:27 PM

Welcome to GTT. Make sure that you have good fuel lines(they swell closed with age), a clean fuel tank, a clean fuel filter, and clean fresh fuel. Then you may still have to rebuild the carb. Go into our Manuals Section and download the engine manual that you need. Another problem that sometimes shows up is that the fuel tank cap doesn't vent properly. Good Luck, Rick

Edited by boyscout862, October 29, 2016 - 07:28 PM.


#6 EricFromPa OFFLINE  

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Posted October 29, 2016 - 11:39 PM

Some of the vertical shaft briggs carbs are impossible to get 100% clean unless you Boil them or Steam clean them at pretty high heat.The idle circuit is darn near impossible to get clean once there plugged up with old crusty dried up gas and dirt.

 

I tried putting one of those carbs in a ultrasonic cleaner and it did absolutely nothing.Left it in there for 2 days with water and some Purple Power.It will clean most any other carb.I put an old Zenith carb in it for a few hours and it and it came out really nice.

 

IMO there harder to clean and set up than the older and newer Walbro carbs.LME/LMG/LMB/LMEG ect ect carbs are notorious for having problems with idle circuit.


Edited by EricFromPa, October 29, 2016 - 11:41 PM.


#7 jimmy G OFFLINE  

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Posted October 30, 2016 - 03:10 AM

You're getting crap in the carb by the sounds of it(water, varnish chunks, rust) try to catch the carb gas in a clean pan or bole,wouldn't hurt to look at some coming out of the tank as well, it has to be completely clean, one piece of any thing the size of a grain sand will get you, to check you're primary passage take out the upper jet and shoot carb cleaner with nozzle through it wile looking through carb from motor side, look for little hole's by where throttle plate set's closed, hold throttle open to see if carb cleaner comes out hole's (Wear safety glasses)

#8 EricFromPa OFFLINE  

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Posted October 30, 2016 - 06:12 PM

Pull it completely apart again and put it in a pan and boil it.Once it boils real good turn it off and poor a bit of good dish soap or some sort of degreaser in and stir it in with a long spoon.Let it sit in the pan with a lid on it for a couple hours or till it cools down.

 

Pull the carb out and rinse with warm water and let it dry.

 

You will be completely amazed by how much crud will be in the bottom of your pan afterwards.

 

Before you boil it make sure that the tip of the idle needle on the top of the carb isn't twisted off and stuck inside the carb.I've had a bunch that people had worked on and if you over tighten that little guy it snaps the tip off.Doesn't take much to twist that tiny pointed tip off.

 

Here check this out.Alot of really good info on the 1 piece flow jet carbs with some really good Pics.

http://outdoorpoweri...lo-jet_carb.asp



#9 missing link OFFLINE  

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Posted November 06, 2016 - 09:14 PM

Hello everyone!  After reading through the replies and doing some more thinking, I took the float bowl off the carb and found that the gasket I made from RTV was completely disintegrated from the gas.  I took the whole carb off again and found that the little clip was not on the needle of the needle and seat.  Honestly, I did not think that the float moved all that smoothly either.  After cleaning the whole thing again after another disassembly, I tried it out tonight.  It seems to work much better.  I tried to adjust it and had it running well right off the bat.  Then, after letting it warm up and run under the load of the mower deck and headlights, with the air cleaner assembly on, I had to re-adjust the idle and adjustment screw on the bottom of the float bowl.  I can only think it is because of the engine being warmed up and the air cleaner drawing warm air from the engine.  BTW, it is 52 degrees (F) tonight.

 

Thanks everyone for the ideas and encouragement.

 

I can't wait to mow the lawn this week!  I will keep you posted on the results.



#10 jimmy G OFFLINE  

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Posted November 06, 2016 - 10:00 PM

Always set your motor at running temp.




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