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HT-20 Driveshaft woes


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#1 Diesel1050 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 27, 2016 - 04:57 PM

Here's the deal. Bought an HT-20, that happens to have a bad driveshaft U joint (At the hydro). The shaft came off the hydro fine, but ain't coming off the motor (Tried it ALL). I have two good driveshafts (One male, one female), that will fit the hydro, but need one to fit the motor (1 1/8). I really don't want to stick with the one piece design because it makes it a pain to work on. Anyone know where I could get a two piece replacement shaft?
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#2 boyscout862 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 27, 2016 - 05:05 PM

Check with our sponsors. They are your best chance to solve the problem. Good Luck, Rick


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#3 chieffan OFFLINE  

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Posted October 27, 2016 - 05:19 PM

Any welding shop that works on Ag equipment can fab you a telescoping drive shaft.  A LOT of farm equipment use this type of system.  Not much real ag up your way though besides potatoes and paper mills.  Been a lot of years but have been in that area.

 

Any way you go you will have to get that drive shaft off the motor.  Make sure you have the set screws out (if any)  some times they stack them, 2 in same hole.  Get the blue wrench out and get ONE SIDE red hot, not the whole piece, and pry, pull, beat or anything else it may take to get it off.  If you heat to much at a time it will swell shaft also and will get no where.  Heat it up fast and go at it.  Good luck.


Edited by chieffan, October 27, 2016 - 06:00 PM.

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#4 blackjackjakexxix OFFLINE  

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Posted October 27, 2016 - 06:05 PM

You need to watch the heat,to hot and theres a chance of damaging the rear seal which seems to be problem anyhow


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#5 WrenchinOnIt OFFLINE  

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Posted October 27, 2016 - 06:36 PM

You need to watch the heat,to hot and theres a chance of damaging the rear seal which seems to be problem anyhow

Yup DITTO, almost every K532 I've got into had a bad rear main seal, Kohler swapped to Japanese bearings and seals somewhere in the production runs of the 532's the quality control must of not been at its best.

I soak 'em with PB Blaster every day at least once a day for a week, if you don't have a slide hammer beg or borrow one ( AutoZone and Advance auto parts have the lend a tool programs) put the 2 jaw puller on it tighten it down in the gap between the two knuckles and hammer it off, it's never failed me. As mentioned make sure your set screws are backed all the way out.

We have a shop locally that I've had make two for HT20's they have the dimensions, (if your interested) not an inexpensive upgrade thou.

Edited by WrenchinOnIt, October 27, 2016 - 06:42 PM.

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#6 LPBolens OFFLINE  

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Posted October 27, 2016 - 11:11 PM

I would think that someone in Lewiston-Auburn ought to be able to fab a two-piece driveshaft for you. That area is big enough to have a call for that sort of thing. (Maine native, in case you were wondering how I might know that)


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#7 Diesel1050 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 28, 2016 - 05:25 AM

I would think that someone in Lewiston-Auburn ought to be able to fab a two-piece driveshaft for you. That area is big enough to have a call for that sort of thing. (Maine native, in case you were wondering how I might know that)

One would think....if we hadn't lost both our local fab shops in the past year! I'm losing patience and ambition to work on this thing, and prettt much every other thing in my garage. Would it be cheaper to fight with the original shaft to get it off to rebuild it? Don't have a lot of money to blow on it at the moment.

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#8 SC Farmer OFFLINE  

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Posted October 28, 2016 - 06:05 AM

Ditto on checking for set screws first.  I finally go mine off (after removing the set screws...) by slowly using a long pry bar - after soaking it in PB as already suggested.  It just took some sweat and patience.  Good luck!



#9 Diesel1050 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 28, 2016 - 06:08 AM

Again, tried everything. Screw are out, PB blaster, WD40, brake fluid, hammering, prying, slidehammer etc. Even tried pushing it off with a bolt

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#10 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted October 28, 2016 - 07:26 AM

Can you try to tap it on further to maybe loosen the joint?


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#11 ClassicBolens OFFLINE  

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Posted October 28, 2016 - 08:56 AM

I had more than my share of driveshaft woes over the years. Patience is the biggest factor. Allow time to work in your favor. Liberally spray it and soak everyday and work it a little everyday. I've had many that eventually took brute force to get removed, but I have yet to fail in my many attempts. Sometimes a long spring steel pry bar and a 3lb dead blow can be your best friend or only option. I've yet to damage a crankshaft, but have sacrificed a few yokes and the occasional oil seal. As KennyP mentioned, you can also try to push the driveshaft further onto the crankshaft to get it to budge. In these situations, any movement in any direction is making progress.

It will be substantially cheaper to rebuild your existing driveshaft than to replace it with a 2 piece telesopic. New u-joints for less than $60 as opposed to upwards of $300 getting a new driveshaft built.

#12 Bud W OFFLINE  

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Posted October 28, 2016 - 09:24 AM

Lots of heat and pry bars, that's what I had to do to get mine off. As others have said, replace the rear seal after you get it off .



#13 Diesel1050 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 28, 2016 - 10:02 AM

I had more than my share of driveshaft woes over the years. Patience is the biggest factor. Allow time to work in your favor. Liberally spray it and soak everyday and work it a little everyday. I've had many that eventually took brute force to get removed, but I have yet to fail in my many attempts. Sometimes a long spring steel pry bar and a 3lb dead blow can be your best friend or only option. I've yet to damage a crankshaft, but have sacrificed a few yokes and the occasional oil seal. As KennyP mentioned, you can also try to push the driveshaft further onto the crankshaft to get it to budge. In these situations, any movement in any direction is making progress.

It will be substantially cheaper to rebuild your existing driveshaft than to replace it with a 2 piece telesopic. New u-joints for less than $60 as opposed to upwards of $300 getting a new driveshaft built.

Where the heck can you get them that cheap? Are they 1300 series U joints or special ones?

#14 LPBolens OFFLINE  

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Posted October 28, 2016 - 12:38 PM

Measure the end caps on the U-joint, and the distance across. Last time I needed to get them, my local auto parts store was able to match them up, and for less than $40. Bolens used slightly different sizes over the years, which is why measurements are important. Many of them are Weasler Series 6. Weasler is located in West Bend, WI, so it made sense for Bolens to buy from them.

#15 LPBolens OFFLINE  

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Posted October 28, 2016 - 10:22 PM

I checked my HT20 (2087) and found that on the engine end of the driveshaft there was a through bolt, not setscrews. Just an FYI--- Yours could well be different
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