Jump to content

Garden Tractors and Parts on eBay



Photo
- - - - -

Bolens 1053 Return to Service Project


  • Please log in to reply
526 replies to this topic

#121 29 Chev OFFLINE  

29 Chev

    A Little Off Plumb

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 63590
  • 7,107 Thanks
  • 2,323 posts
  • Location: Ontario Canada

Posted December 05, 2016 - 07:47 PM

Thanks for the kind words.

 

This morning I had a good look at the area where the brake plate disk makes contact with the rear of the rear clutch hub and I still had concerns about the brake plate getting hung up on the inside of the hole so I removed the driveshaft, disassembled the clutch, pressed the release bearing back off of the hub and turned the rear face down about another 1/2" in towards the centre in the lathe.  Now the inside of the brake plate will easily clear the step in the rear of the clutch hub - had a look at some pictures of my 1050 hub and originally the hub was flat across into the centre (the 1050 and the 1053 rear clutch hub are the same part number according to the parts manuals).  This tractor must have been run for some time with no friction material left on the brake plate to wear the rear of the hub as much as it did.  Got things back together and reinstalled back in the tractor and called it a night. 

 

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Rear Clutch Hub Remachined Where Brake Plate Makes Contact.jpg
  • 2 Brake Plate Now Has Lots Of CLearance.jpg
  • 1050 Rear Clutch Hub Picture.jpg

  • Bruce Dorsi, blackjackjakexxix, KennyP and 3 others have said thanks

#122 29 Chev OFFLINE  

29 Chev

    A Little Off Plumb

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 63590
  • 7,107 Thanks
  • 2,323 posts
  • Location: Ontario Canada

Posted December 06, 2016 - 05:01 PM

Got the clutch and brake linkage hooked up and adjusted the clutch rod,  brake plate clearance and the brake arm contact point against the brake drum as per the service manual - may have the clutch pedal setting a little high but should be ok to start with - checked and everything appears to work as it should - rear clutch hub moves back to release pulley and contacts brake plate to stop driveshaft from rotating and then as the pedal is pushed further the brake plate moves back on the springs and the brake arm contacts the brake drum to stop the output shaft from turning.  Put the lower gear back on the steering shaft and slid the shaft into the steering column from the bottom - the old grease fitting at the bottom of the column was plugged with gunge so I installed a new one and greased it.  I got a new wave washer and woodruff key for the top of the steering column and installed them and then I put a small hose clamp around the steering shaft - the clamp should hold the shaft up in the column when I go to install it on the tractor.  I also got a few more parts cleaned up and painted - laid a couple of garbage bags over the top of the tractor to keep dirt off it when I am not working on it.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Brake Plate Clearance Set.jpg
  • 2 Clutch Pedal Pressed To Relase Clutch ANd Move Rear Hub Against Brake Plate.jpg
  • 3 Brake Arm Position With Clutch Engaged.jpg
  • 4 Brake Arm Against Drum With Clutch Pedal Fully Depressed.jpg
  • 5 View Of Clutch Rod From Underneath.jpg
  • 6 View Of Rod Going To Brake Arm Mechanism.jpg
  • 7 Clutch Pedal Position.jpg
  • 8 Hose Clamp Around Top Of Steering Shaft To Hold It Up.jpg
  • 9 Lower Gear Installed On Steering Shaft And New Grease Fitting In Place.jpg
  • 10 Fender Support Painted.jpg
  • 11 Other Parts Painted.jpg
  • 12 Two Garbage Bags Over Tractor frame To Keep Dirt Off.jpg

Edited by 29 Chev, December 06, 2016 - 06:14 PM.

  • Alc, blackjackjakexxix, WrenchinOnIt and 4 others have said thanks

#123 29 Chev OFFLINE  

29 Chev

    A Little Off Plumb

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 63590
  • 7,107 Thanks
  • 2,323 posts
  • Location: Ontario Canada

Posted December 07, 2016 - 05:10 PM

Had plans of having an assembled steering column bolted on today but that didn't quite work out.  Bolted the column in position, mounted the steering wheel and tightened the shaft nut only to find I could not turn the wheel - so I removed the column back off the tractor and removed the lower gear assuming that the top of the bronze bushing I had made was a little too thick and causing the problem but I was wrong.  Once I removed the shaft back out of the steering column I saw that I had cracked the J B Weld on the hub in one spot as it had been hitting on the column as I tightened the wheel on.  Ground some more material out of the hub on the inside and the one chunk of the J B Weld where it was cracked broke away.  I set the column back over the shaft with the steering wheel upside down and noticed that the hub had lots of clearance in one spot and very little in another so I did some measuring and found out the upper hole in the column was not centred with the casting so I sanded the thicker part a bit to give it more clearance.  I ground the broken edges and applied some more J B Weld - this time I left the column on the shaft and then used a piece of cardboard wrapped in plastic between the column and the inside of the wheel to make the inner form and used a piece of cardboard with plastic on it on the outside (used a piece of wire tightened against the outer ends to make it form outwards in the centre).  I am hoping the plastic will release better than the cardboard from the J B Weld - will see whether it was a good idea when I remove the form.  While I let the J B Weld cure I had a look at the bushings for the PTO control shaft and the idler arm - the bushings for the shaft were in good shape so I will reuse them but the bushings for the idler arm were worn and one was melted a bit so I decided to use a brass pipe coupling and machine two new bushings on the lathe.  I made the bushings with a 1/2" hole in the inside and machined the outer edge so they were a light press fit and made the collar .700" on the outside - kept the collar thin to match the width the plastic ones were and there are the remains of the bottom of the thread grooves on the inside but the bushings should last quite a while and the grooves should hold a bit of grease to lubricate them.  I also got the foot rests and tool lift bolted on the tractor. 

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 J B Weld Cracked.jpg
  • 2 Distance From Hole To Outer Edge On One Side Of Column.jpg
  • 3 Distance From Hole To Outer Edge Less On Other Side.jpg
  • 4 Sanded A Bit Off Of Column On thicker Side.jpg
  • 5 Cracked Piece Removed.jpg
  • 6 Cardboard Form Wedged In Between Column And Inside Of Wheel.jpg
  • 7 Outside Of Form In place And J B Weld Applied.jpg
  • 8 Wire Applied To Make Outer Form Expand In Centre Area.jpg
  • 9 Old Bushings For PTO Control Shaft And Idler Arm.jpg
  • 10 Brass Pipe Coupling To Make New Idler Arm Bushings.jpg
  • 11 New Brass Bushings Made For Idler Arm.jpg
  • 12 Test Fit Of Idler Arm On Shaft.jpg
  • 13 Tool Lift And Foot Rests Installed.jpg

  • Bruce Dorsi, blackjackjakexxix, WrenchinOnIt and 5 others have said thanks

#124 29 Chev OFFLINE  

29 Chev

    A Little Off Plumb

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 63590
  • 7,107 Thanks
  • 2,323 posts
  • Location: Ontario Canada

Posted December 08, 2016 - 01:41 PM

Had a look at the steering wheel this morning - removed the outer form and saw there was a couple of small voids in the J B Weld so I filled them in and set the wheel aside and tackled putting the shifter levers and parking brake lever back on the transmission cover.  I used two short pieces of wire to compress the spring on the parking brake rod to make installing the roll pin easier.  Then I set the cover and fender support onto the tractor to see how it would look with the knobs painted red.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Spring Wired To Let Roll Pin In Parking Brake Lever.jpg
  • 2 Cover Set On Top Of Transmission.jpg
  • 3 Cover Set On Top Of Transmission.jpg

  • Alc, Bruce Dorsi, blackjackjakexxix and 6 others have said thanks

#125 29 Chev OFFLINE  

29 Chev

    A Little Off Plumb

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 63590
  • 7,107 Thanks
  • 2,323 posts
  • Location: Ontario Canada

Posted December 09, 2016 - 03:25 PM

Removed the forms from the steering wheel this morning - the plastic came off without sticking to the J B Weld the way the cardboard had but if I was doing it again I would try and glue the plastic flat against the cardboard as the loose plastic resulted in some wrinkle marks in the J B Weld.  Checked and had clearance on the inside for the steering column this time so I filed and sanded the J B Weld, masked the bottom of the wheel and splashed a bit of paint on the J B Weld - there are a few imperfections in the hub where I repaired the piece that was broken out but they shouldn't be too noticeable as they are pretty well hidden since they are on the side under the wheel.  Installed the steering gear back on the steering shaft, removed the transmission cover and installed the steering column, the PTO control shaft assembly and the PTO handle - the roll pin that holds the handle on to the pivot was a loose fit so I ran a piece of mechanics wire through it to hold it in place.  Installed a new spring from my spring assortment underneath the handle that keeps tension on the handle, slid the PTO tension spring on the PTO control shaft and installed the two roll pins at the rear of the control shaft.     

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Forms With Plastiic Removed.jpg
  • 2 A Few Wrinkle Marks From Plastic.jpg
  • 3 Wrinkles On Inside As Well.jpg
  • 4 J B Weld Sanded And Bottom Of Wheel Masked Off.jpg
  • 5 Bottom Of Hub Painted.jpg
  • 6 Steering Column Installed.jpg
  • 7 Steering Column Installed.jpg
  • 8 PTO And Idler Arm Mechanisim.jpg
  • 9 PTO Spring Installed.jpg
  • 10 PTO Spring Installed.jpg
  • 11 Idler Arm Pivots Freely On PTO Control Rod.jpg

  • LPBolens, Bruce Dorsi, blackjackjakexxix and 7 others have said thanks

#126 29 Chev OFFLINE  

29 Chev

    A Little Off Plumb

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 63590
  • 7,107 Thanks
  • 2,323 posts
  • Location: Ontario Canada

Posted December 10, 2016 - 03:01 PM

Touched up the paint around the PTO tensioner spring and shaft - ran into a bit of wrinkling with the paint on the one frame tube around where I was touching up as I had used an older version of the Krylon paint on the frame tubes while I was waiting for the paint I had on order to come in and I am guessing the solvents in the newer version don't like the older version - will wait until I pull the cover to inspect the 15 tooth gear after I have run the tractor for a bit and touch that area up - the paint should be aged a bit by then.  I poured some GL1 gear lube over the gears and parts to fill the transmission and coat the parts surfaces as I was pouring in the gear lube.  Set the gasket I had made earlier for the top of the transmission in place and installed the transmission cover and fender support.  I also installed the lift handle and dug out the rear wheels.  Will have to get the front wheels off the front axle spindles and remove the tires off of them and clean up and paint the rims - we got some snow finally and it has gotten colder so that will likely make me slow down a bit.  Wrote my letter to Santa and asked for some new tires for the tractor - will see if any show up but I am not sure I have been that good this year.

:(  :angel:  :bigrofl:

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 PTO Shaft And Spring Repainted.jpg
  • 2 GL1 Gear Lube Poured Over Parts.jpg
  • 3 GL1 Gear Lube Poured Over Parts.jpg
  • 4 Transmission Cover Gasket Set In Placce.jpg
  • 5 Cover Installed.jpg
  • 6 Cover And Lift Lever Installed.jpg
  • 7 Rear Wheels Dug Out.jpg

Edited by 29 Chev, December 10, 2016 - 05:38 PM.

  • blackjackjakexxix, WrenchinOnIt, TomLGT195 and 2 others have said thanks

#127 29 Chev OFFLINE  

29 Chev

    A Little Off Plumb

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 63590
  • 7,107 Thanks
  • 2,323 posts
  • Location: Ontario Canada

Posted December 24, 2016 - 02:52 PM

Been busy with life, winter and a few other projects but finally got a little bit more done on the 1053.  Got the tires removed, front wheel bearings removed, rims cleaned up and painted as well as the spindles removed from the front axle.  The steering arms were seized to the spindles but a bit of heat and some friendly persuasion and they came off.  There is a bit of wear on the spindles where they go through the axle so I may build the worn areas up a bit with the mig welder and sand the welds to tighten the fit up.  I am also going to try and fill in the worn area around the grease fitting on the axle with the mig welder.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Front Rims Painted.jpg
  • 2 Rear Rims Painted.jpg
  • 3 Spindles Removed From Front Axle.jpg
  • 4 Spindles Removed From Front Axle.jpg
  • 5 Spindles.jpg

  • LPBolens, Bruce Dorsi, blackjackjakexxix and 5 others have said thanks

#128 29 Chev OFFLINE  

29 Chev

    A Little Off Plumb

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 63590
  • 7,107 Thanks
  • 2,323 posts
  • Location: Ontario Canada

Posted December 26, 2016 - 12:47 PM

Got the axle cleaned up a bit and then I ground out the worn area underneath the centre of the axle and built it up with the mig welder.  Once that was done I wire brushed the welds and they looked pretty good so I ground and sanded the area back down - not perfect but should give a new wear surface in case the same thing happens again and since it is underneath it won't be seen.  I also ran a few beads of weld on the spindles where they were worn and sanded the welds down so the spindles would fit into the axle holes - they are not perfect but definitely tighter and with regular greasing should outlast me. Ran a tap through the grease fitting holes to clean up the threads - the threads are not the best on the one for the axle pin as it appears the casting may have been a little porous on one side of where the hole is but I think it should still hold the grease fitting ok. 

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Front Axle Partially Cleaned Up.jpg
  • 2 Worn Area.jpg
  • 3 Worn Area Ground And Welded.jpg
  • 4 Worn Area Ground And Welded.jpg
  • 5 Weld Ground And Sanded.jpg
  • 6 Weld Ground And Sanded.jpg
  • 7 Weld Ground And Sanded.jpg
  • 8 Weld Ground And Sanded.jpg
  • 9 Gease Fitting Hole Threads Cleaned Out WIth Tap.jpg
  • 10 Worn Spots On Spindles Welded And Welds Ground.jpg

  • blackjackjakexxix, KennyP, sacsr and 4 others have said thanks

#129 29 Chev OFFLINE  

29 Chev

    A Little Off Plumb

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 63590
  • 7,107 Thanks
  • 2,323 posts
  • Location: Ontario Canada

Posted December 26, 2016 - 12:51 PM

Finished cleaning up the axle, spindles and arms - masked the spindles where they make contact with the axle and wheel bearings and painted them.  I also gave the rear wheel studs a scuff sand and painted the heads silver.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 11 Front Axle Painted.jpg
  • 12 Built Up Area.jpg
  • 13 Steering Arms And Spindles Painted.jpg
  • 14 Steering Arms And Spindles Painted.jpg
  • 15 Front Axle Painted.jpg
  • 16 Front Axle Painted.jpg
  • 17 Wheel Studs Painted Silver.jpg

  • Bruce Dorsi, blackjackjakexxix, KennyP and 4 others have said thanks

#130 29 Chev OFFLINE  

29 Chev

    A Little Off Plumb

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 63590
  • 7,107 Thanks
  • 2,323 posts
  • Location: Ontario Canada

Posted December 27, 2016 - 03:00 PM

Repaired the axle pivot pin today - built up the worn areas with the mig welder where it had turned in the front support and then turned the welds down in the lathe.  I also built up the ends of the pin a bit and refaced them - now the one end doesn't look mushroomed - tried it in the front axle and it is a nice snug fit.  Ran a 3/16" drill bit through the two holes and found a couple of new 3/16" x 1-1/2" roll pins in my assortment to hold it in - may have to shorten them a little bit as I believe they were 1-1/4" long originally. 

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Axle Pivot Pin Worn And Mushroomed At One End.jpg
  • 2 Axle Pivot Pin Worn And Mushroomed At One End.jpg
  • 3 Worn Areas Built Up And Turned Down.jpg
  • 4 Worn Areas Built Up And Turned Down.jpg
  • 5 Worn Areas Built Up And Turned Down.jpg

  • blackjackjakexxix, sacsr, WrenchinOnIt and 2 others have said thanks

#131 29 Chev OFFLINE  

29 Chev

    A Little Off Plumb

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 63590
  • 7,107 Thanks
  • 2,323 posts
  • Location: Ontario Canada

Posted December 28, 2016 - 03:58 PM

Shortened the roll pins to 1-1/4" to match the originals and installed one in one end of the pivot pin.  Installed grease fittings in the axle, made sure they all passed grease and then installed the axle in the front support - used a 11mm 1/4" drive deep socket slid in from the front to hold the axle while I slid the pivot pin in from the rear.  Once the pin was in place I pressed the front roll pin into the pin using a large pair of vise grips making sure the upper part of the roll pin was pushed into the notch in the support to keep the pivot pin from rotating.  Once that was done I cleaned off any excess grease and sprayed a little paint on the ends of the pin and moved on to mounting the spindles.  Started the roll pins in the steering arms and then used a 5/16" diameter bolt slid in from the rear to align the holes in the steering arms and the spindles while I installed the roll pins - used a hammer to tap them in as I held the rear of the arm.  Once the spindles were in place I wiped off the excess grease and touched up the paint around the top where the steering arms connect to the spindles.  I also got the tied rods and connecting link cleaned up - made sure the jam nuts and tie rods turned on the link.  Masked the tie rods as I will paint them silver and then I painted the connecting link.   

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Roll Pins SHortened To Match Old One.jpg
  • 2 Socket Slid In Front To Hold Axle.jpg
  • 3 Sliding Pin In From Rear.jpg
  • 4 Front Axle Installed.jpg
  • 6 Front Roll Pin Installed.jpg
  • 7 Rear Of Pin Painted.jpg
  • 8 Front Of Pin Painted.jpg
  • 9 Roll Pin Started In Steering Arm.jpg
  • 10 Bolt In Rear Of Arm To Align Roll Pin.jpg
  • 11 Left Spindle Installed.jpg
  • 12 Right Spindle Installed.jpg
  • 13 Spindles Installed In Axle.jpg
  • 14 Tie Rods And Link Painted.jpg

  • blackjackjakexxix, WrenchinOnIt, SamMC and 2 others have said thanks

#132 29 Chev OFFLINE  

29 Chev

    A Little Off Plumb

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 63590
  • 7,107 Thanks
  • 2,323 posts
  • Location: Ontario Canada

Posted December 28, 2016 - 04:11 PM

Checked out the front wheel bearings that I removed from the front wheels - three have quite a bit of play and one has no ball bearings left - just the inner and outer part which did not surprise me as there was no dust cap on one of the wheels and they probably did not get grease very often.  One of the three bearings that have play appears to be a light duty design as the outer part appears to be stamped sheet metal rather than hardened steel.  I found the old wheel bearings that came out of my first 1050 and they appear to be in decent shape so I think I will take a chance on them - will get them cleaned up and repacked with grease.  If they don't pan out I do have some new ones that I picked up a while ago - some are from Napa and some are in Stens packages.  I got a dust cap from a 1050 parts axle I have and cleaned the two dust caps up and painted them silver.  Santa did not bring me any tires so I ordered some and they are in now so I am hoping to get them installed on the rims this week.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Front Wheel Bearings.jpg
  • 2 Old Bearings From 1050.jpg
  • 3 New Bearings.jpg
  • 4 New Bearings.jpg
  • 5 Dust Caps Painted.jpg

  • LPBolens, Bruce Dorsi, blackjackjakexxix and 6 others have said thanks

#133 Bruce Dorsi ONLINE  

Bruce Dorsi

    Old, but not dead -- yet!

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 1525
  • 3,867 Thanks
  • 2,431 posts
  • Location: New Jersey

Posted December 28, 2016 - 08:11 PM

I respect the quality of your workmanship !!!  :worshippy1:

 

It makes me happy to see a repair done properly!      :thumbs:


  • Bolens 1000, blackjackjakexxix, Bud W and 3 others have said thanks

#134 29 Chev OFFLINE  

29 Chev

    A Little Off Plumb

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 63590
  • 7,107 Thanks
  • 2,323 posts
  • Location: Ontario Canada

Posted December 29, 2016 - 03:09 PM

Thanks for the kind words - it makes me happy to do the repair once and not have it fail when I want to use the tractor - not saying that something cannot break later on but I will feel good knowing that this tractor should outlast me if I perform regular maintenance.

 

Got the new tires mounted and the front wheel bearings packed with grease and installed - since these are original style bearing I made sure the two with the metal shields went on the inside and the two that were open on the outside where they will be protected from debris by the dust cap.  I also installed a machinery bushing on the spindle on the inside to act both as a spacer and also as an extra shield for the inner bearing - originally the bearing just sat against the step in the spindle as near as I can tell by the parts diagram.  There was a small diameter shim washer on each spindle on the inside when I took it apart so I put them on the outside between the outer bearing and the retaining collar - still had a little bit of sideways movement on the spindle so the spacers should not make things too tight.  While I worked away I also got a few coats of paint on the outer tie rods.  Once the retaining collars were installed and the screws tightened I grease the two wheels until I could see grease coming out the inside and outside bearings.  Then I  wiped the excess grease off the outer end of the spindle and spread it on the inside of the dust cap with my finger.  I gently set the dust caps on and set the end of a short 2x4 against the end of the dust cap and tapped on the end of the 2x4 with a hammer to install the dust cap since the paint on the dust cap was still fresh.  After the dust caps were installed  I gave each wheel a few more pumps of grease to fill the dust caps up.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Front Wheel With Tire Valve Stem Side.jpg
  • 2 Inner Bearing WIth Metal Shieldl Installed.jpg
  • 3 Outer Bearing WIth No Seal Installed.jpg
  • 4 Tie Rod Ends Painted.jpg
  • 5 Machinery Bushings To Act As Inner Bearing Shields.jpg
  • 6 Machinery Bushing Sized Against Bearing.jpg
  • 7 Retaining Collars Screws And Spacers Cleaned Up.jpg
  • 8 Machinery Bushing Slid On To Spindle.jpg
  • 9 Wheel And Outer Spacer Slid On.jpg
  • 10 Retaining Collar And Screw In Place.jpg
  • 11 Screw Tightened.jpg
  • 12 Grease Coming Out Outer Bearing.jpg
  • 13 Grease Coming Out Inner Bearing.jpg
  • 14 Dust Cap Installed.jpg

  • LPBolens, Bruce Dorsi, blackjackjakexxix and 4 others have said thanks

#135 29 Chev OFFLINE  

29 Chev

    A Little Off Plumb

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 63590
  • 7,107 Thanks
  • 2,323 posts
  • Location: Ontario Canada

Posted December 29, 2016 - 03:23 PM

Once the front wheels were installed I put some never seize in the rear wheel bolt holes and installed the rear wheels.  Went with turf tires on the front and back as I am planning on using the tractor for grass cutting duties when I get it running - it is starting to look like a tractor again.  Next I will have to repair and shorten the drag link - one of the ball pivots has come out of the socket and someone welded a piece to it when they lengthened the tractor.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Four Wheels Installed.jpg
  • 2 Four Wheels Installed.jpg
  • 3 Front Wheel With Dust Cap.jpg
  • 4 Rear Wheel With Silver Wheel Bolts.jpg
  • 5 Drag Link.jpg
  • 6 Drag Link.jpg

  • blackjackjakexxix, KennyP, TomLGT195 and 2 others have said thanks




Top