Jump to content

Garden Tractors and Parts on eBay



Photo
- - - - -

Bolens 1053 Return to Service Project


  • Please log in to reply
526 replies to this topic

#106 DH1 ONLINE  

DH1

    Electric Tractors

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 62
  • 5,002 Thanks
  • 5,459 posts
  • Location: Markham Ontario Canada

Posted November 28, 2016 - 07:30 PM

Not sure what I am going to use for an engine yet - maybe I will get lucky and find a TRA10D complete with a good pulley at a reasonable price close to home - time will tell.

 

Something like this?

 

post-64-132893649818.jpg


  • KennyP, BowDown, TomLGT195 and 2 others have said thanks

#107 29 Chev ONLINE  

29 Chev

    A Little Off Plumb

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 63590
  • 6,953 Thanks
  • 2,236 posts
  • Location: Ontario Canada

Posted November 28, 2016 - 07:49 PM

Something like this?

 

attachicon.gifpost-64-132893649818.jpg

That would be an interesting modification to a 1053 - will see what happens.



#108 29 Chev ONLINE  

29 Chev

    A Little Off Plumb

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 63590
  • 6,953 Thanks
  • 2,236 posts
  • Location: Ontario Canada

Posted November 29, 2016 - 03:40 PM

Got some J B Weld this morning so I made forms out of pieces of light cardboard for the missing centre hub area - I have found that without a form to hold it J B Weld will migrate thanks to the force of gravity.  Used masking tape to secure the forms to the wheel and applied the J B Weld using a small flat screwdriver - not sure how well I got the J B Weld worked in to the form - will have to check on it after it cures.  I set the wheel aside and decided to make a new thin wall bushing out of a brass pipe fitting to use in the upper hole of the steering support where the steering shaft comes out - the original bushing was plastic and a bit longer but I think the brass bushing should work equally as well and last quite a while.  I left the bushing a loose fit so it can float on the shaft and in the support.  While I was working on fitting the bushing I noticed a crack in the steering support that I had originally dismissed as a seam in the casting - not sure what caused the crack and whether it would have ever went any further but I decided to grind it out and weld it with the mig welder.  Then I sanded the weld and repainted it.   

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Starting To Make  Cardboard Forms For Bottom Of Wheel.jpg
  • 2 Cardboard Forms In Place.jpg
  • 3 J B Weld Applied To Bottom.jpg
  • 4 J B Weld Applied To Bottom.jpg
  • 5 Brass Bushing For Top Of Steering Shaft.jpg
  • 6 Test Fit Of Bushing In Support.jpg
  • 7 Test Fit Of Bushing On Shaft.jpg
  • 8 Crack In Steering Support.jpg
  • 9 Crack Welded.jpg
  • 10 Weld Sanded.jpg
  • 11 Support Painted Again.jpg

  • Bruce Dorsi, blackjackjakexxix, KennyP and 3 others have said thanks

#109 29 Chev ONLINE  

29 Chev

    A Little Off Plumb

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 63590
  • 6,953 Thanks
  • 2,236 posts
  • Location: Ontario Canada

Posted November 30, 2016 - 02:03 PM

Removed the cardboard forms this morning - the cardboard was stuck to the J B Weld so I used a rag and dabbed water onto the remaining cardboard to soften it and scraped it away with a utility knife.  The J B Weld appears to have worked its way into the forms nicely and there are only a few small voids where air bubbles formed.  Used a flat file gently on the J B Weld to shape it to the contour around the outside of the centre hub - tried the J B Weld on the spokes and decided I would let the J B Weld cure for a few more days before I tackle them and the inside of the centre hub.  Flipped the wheel over and filled the cracks on the top side - used a razor blade as a spreader to level the material to keep it from getting onto any more of the graining than necessary.  I am going to try and duplicate the graining with a small model paint brush in a few hours as the J B Weld cures - I tried it after an hour and the results looked hopeful but after about five minutes gravity took over and the J B Weld became smooth again.  I set the wheel aside and had a good look at the two needle bearings that go inside the clutch pulley - they were full of black gucky grease so I cleaned the old grease out with a toothbrush and varsol.  The one bearing showed wear on the end where something has rubbed against it and one of the needles fell out of the cage - I assume it came out of the side of the pulley where things had been steel against steel.  I had a used bearing left over from one of my 1050's so I cleaned it up and it looked good so it will be used to replace the bad one - repacked the two bearings with grease using a small flat screwdriver to work the grease into the cage and needles.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Cardboard Form Removed.jpg
  • 2 Cardboard Form Removed.jpg
  • 3 Remaining Cardboard Scraped Off With Utility Knife.jpg
  • 4 Remaining Cardboard Scraped Off With Utility Knife.jpg
  • 5 Starting To File.jpg
  • 6 Side View.jpg
  • 7 Side View.jpg
  • 8 Cracks Filled On Top Side Of Wheel.jpg
  • 9 Cracks Filled On Top Side Of Wheel.jpg
  • 10 Needle Bearing Missing Needle.jpg
  • 11 Wear Mark On End Of Bearing.jpg
  • 12 Needle Bearings Repacked With Grease.jpg

  • Bolens 1000, LPBolens, Bruce Dorsi and 4 others have said thanks

#110 29 Chev ONLINE  

29 Chev

    A Little Off Plumb

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 63590
  • 6,953 Thanks
  • 2,236 posts
  • Location: Ontario Canada

Posted December 01, 2016 - 02:20 PM

Had a look at the steering wheel this morning where I had used the brush and also a small Philips screwdriver (some of the JB Weld had cured a little harder than I anticipated and the brush would not mark the surface) to duplicate the graining and while the results looked not too bad I decided that I was going to have to do something else to make the graining look reasonably even.  I would either have to apply another coat of J B Weld in the cracks in the grained area or else I was afraid they would stand out and to apply another coat of J B Weld would result in more of the original graining getting filled in next to the cracks which would mean they would still stand out so I opted for another plan.  I filed and sanded the other areas of the wheel (used a medium size round file to get into the contours around where the spokes met the outer rim) and also cleaned out the inside of the centre on the bottom using a carbide burr mounted in the electric drill.  Then I washed the wheel off with a rag lightly coated with thinners making sure that I wiped the thinners back off quickly in case they reacted with the plastic on the wheel, scuffed the whole wheel with a scotch brite pad and masked everything except where I wanted the graining to be on the spokes.  I tired spraying black gravel guard on the spokes using a few light coats to see if there would be any reaction and things looked good that way but the gravel guard was not leaving a grainy enough pattern to suit me so I tried daubing the gravel guard with the end of the bristles on the paint brush and was kinda happy with the results.  So I let the gravel guard dry a bit and then gave it another coat and as the gravel guard was drying I daubed it with the paint brush again.  After the wheel had dried for about half an hour I removed the masking tape and here are the results.  The graining does not match the original but if does look reasonably uniform in my opinion and the gravel guard does a reasonable job of hiding where the cracks were repaired - in hindsight I probably should have applied another layer of J B Weld and finished off the cracked areas better where the graining is.  Once the gravel guard dries I hope to mask it off and then spray the rest of the wheel with a gloss black paint.   

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Results After J B Weld Cured In Grained Area.jpg
  • 2 Results After J B Weld Cured In Grained Area.jpg
  • 3 Centre Of Wheel Cleaned Up Using Drill And Carbide Burr.jpg
  • 4 Steering Wheel Sanded.jpg
  • 5 Steering Wheel Masked.jpg
  • 6 Steering Wheel Masked.jpg
  • 7 Gravel Guard.jpg
  • 8 Paint Brush Used For Daubing.jpg
  • 9 SPokes Sprayed With Gravel Guard.jpg
  • 10 Close Up Of Centre.jpg
  • 11 Steering Wheel Unmasked.jpg
  • 12 Steering WHeel Unmasked.jpg
  • 13 Close Up Of Spoke 1.jpg
  • 14 Close Up Of Spoke 2.jpg
  • 15 Close Up Of Spoke 3.jpg
  • 16 Steering Wheel.jpg

  • Bolens 1000, Bruce Dorsi, blackjackjakexxix and 6 others have said thanks

#111 KennyP ONLINE  

KennyP

    FORDoholic

  • Super Moderator
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2253
  • 34,234 Thanks
  • 43,350 posts
  • Location: Collinsville, Oklahoma

Posted December 01, 2016 - 05:08 PM

Looks better than it did! 


  • 29 Chev said thank you

#112 29 Chev ONLINE  

29 Chev

    A Little Off Plumb

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 63590
  • 6,953 Thanks
  • 2,236 posts
  • Location: Ontario Canada

Posted December 02, 2016 - 01:15 PM

Masked the grained area of the wheel and painted it today - here are the results.  I missed seeing a couple of small cracks around the outer edge and probably should have spent more time on it but it is going on a fourty plus year old garden tractor that will be used and not a show queen - as Kenny P said it looks better than it did. 

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Grained Area Of Steering Wheel Masked.jpg
  • 2 Painting Bottom.jpg
  • 3 Painting Top Side Of Wheel.jpg
  • 4 Crack I Missed.jpg
  • 5 Steering Wheel Painted And Touch Dry Bottom.jpg
  • 6 Steering Wheel Unmasked Top.jpg
  • 7 Steering Wheel Touch Dry Top.jpg
  • 8 Steering Wheel Touch Dry.jpg

  • blackjackjakexxix, KennyP, TomLGT195 and 2 others have said thanks

#113 29 Chev ONLINE  

29 Chev

    A Little Off Plumb

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 63590
  • 6,953 Thanks
  • 2,236 posts
  • Location: Ontario Canada

Posted December 02, 2016 - 01:26 PM

I got the clutch pulley, brake plate and brake arm back yesterday from a place in Woodbridge, Ontario that I had sent them to get relined - went with 3/16" thick lining on the pulley and plate and 1/4" thick on the brake arm.  While I was waiting for the coats of paint to dry on the steering wheel I cleaned up and masked the pieces and got them painted - I cut an old belt to make two pieces to mask the grooves in the pulley and held them in place with a short piece of masking tape on each one.  The disk for the brake plate was a little off centre so I used a round file and removed a bit of material that was overlapping the centre opening on the one side - since I had taken a few cuts off of the back of the rear clutch hub I was concerned the bit of material sticking out might hang the brake plate up and not make even contact.  Once the paint was dry I unmasked them and got the brake arm installed on the shaft and pressed the two needle bearings into the pulley - I set the sleeve that the needle bearings turn inside to make sure it did not bind.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Parts Back From Being Relined.jpg
  • 2 Parts Other Side.jpg
  • 3 Brake Plate Disc Not Quite Centred.jpg
  • 4 Brake Plate Masked.jpg
  • 5 Pieces Of Old Belt Cut To Mask Pulley grooves.jpg
  • 6 Pulley Masked.jpg
  • 7 Parts Painted.jpg
  • 8 Parts Unmasked.jpg
  • 9 Parts Unmasked.jpg
  • 10 Brake Arm Back On Shaft.jpg
  • 11 One Needle Bearing Pressed Into Pulley.jpg
  • 12 Second Needle Bearing Pressed Into Pulley.jpg
  • 13 Set Collar into Needle Bearings To Make Sure There Was No Binding.jpg

  • Bruce Dorsi, blackjackjakexxix, KennyP and 5 others have said thanks

#114 blackjackjakexxix ONLINE  

blackjackjakexxix

    Blackjackjakexxix

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 2194
  • 2,730 Thanks
  • 1,993 posts
  • Location: Pulaski,Pa 16143

Posted December 02, 2016 - 05:15 PM

Masked the grained area of the wheel and painted it today - here are the results. I missed seeing a couple of small cracks around the outer edge and probably should have spent more time on it but it is going on a fourty plus year old garden tractor that will be used and not a show queen - as Kenny P said it looks better than it did.



#115 blackjackjakexxix ONLINE  

blackjackjakexxix

    Blackjackjakexxix

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 2194
  • 2,730 Thanks
  • 1,993 posts
  • Location: Pulaski,Pa 16143

Posted December 02, 2016 - 05:16 PM

Looks great Stew
  • WrenchinOnIt, 29 Chev and logmillingman have said thanks

#116 29 Chev ONLINE  

29 Chev

    A Little Off Plumb

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 63590
  • 6,953 Thanks
  • 2,236 posts
  • Location: Ontario Canada

Posted December 03, 2016 - 03:54 PM

Thanks for the kind words.  Got the brake arm mechanism installed, installed the lock nuts on the bolts holding the mounting plate and tightened them up as well as finished tightening the front bolts that attach the tubes to the front axle support and the bolts on the transmission caps .  There was a bit of overspray on the frame tubes and transmission as well as a few scratches and marks in the paint so I masked off the heads of the bolts, gave the paint a light scuffing with a scotch brite pad and then I gave everything another coat of paint.  While I was waiting for the paint to dry I got the clutch assembled onto the driveshaft - the tension washer that went at the front side of the pulley was worn so I installed a new one as well as new tension washers at the clutch fork pivot and on the pins of the release bearing retainer as they were missing.  Put a light coating of grease on the splines in the driveshaft and rear hub, put the short spring, washer, spacer, pulley and front tension washer on and then got the front clutch hub tightened on the driveshaft using a large adjustable wrench and holding the rear of the shaft with a pair of vise grips. Got the splined coupling bolted to the bonded coupling (used blue thread locker on the vibration nuts as they did not appear to be holding on their own) and slid the splined coupler onto the input shaft of the transmission.  The bolts in the frame tubes were in good shape other than the heads were rusty so I had wire brushed them off - got some silver metallic paint and sprayed a bit in a cap from a spray bomb and using a model paint brush I hand painted the heads of the bolts after I had masked around the bolt heads along the sides - the silver metallic paint should look close to the cadium plating that was on the bolts originally and keep them from rusting.      

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Brake Arm And Rod Mechanism Bolted On.jpg
  • 2 Bolt Heads Masked Qick Scuff And Paint.jpg
  • 3 Spring Rear Clutch Hub Short Spring And Washer On Driveshaft.jpg
  • 4 Front Tension Washer Worn.jpg
  • 5 Pulley Spacer And New Tension Washer In Place.jpg
  • 6 Front Clutch Hub Threaded On By Hand.jpg
  • 7 Front Clutch Hub Tightened.jpg
  • 8 Rear Of Clutch Spring Against Roll Pin In Driveshaft.jpg
  • 9 Hand Painting Heads Of Bolts Using Small Brush.jpg
  • 10 Brake Plate Slid Over Release Bearing With Side Brackets Installed.jpg
  • 11 Release Bearing Yoke Installed.jpg
  • 12 Release Bearing Yoke Installed.jpg
  • 13 Bonded Coupling Bolted To Splined Coupling.jpg
  • 14 Coupling Slid Onto Input Shaft Of Transmission.jpg
  • 15 Around Bolt Heads Unmasked.jpg
  • 16 Bolt Heads Along Side.jpg
  • 17 Bolt Heads At Front.jpg

  • Bruce Dorsi, blackjackjakexxix, KennyP and 4 others have said thanks

#117 Chubien OFFLINE  

Chubien
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 61561
  • 636 Thanks
  • 398 posts
  • Location: Montreal, Quebec

Posted December 03, 2016 - 08:41 PM

You'll be needing that engine soon by the looks of it!
  • 29 Chev said thank you

#118 29 Chev ONLINE  

29 Chev

    A Little Off Plumb

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 63590
  • 6,953 Thanks
  • 2,236 posts
  • Location: Ontario Canada

Posted December 04, 2016 - 02:43 PM

You'll be needing that engine soon by the looks of it!

Not going to worry about an engine for quite a while yet.  Got a long way to go before that - sheet metal parts to repair and fabricate, still lots of parts and wheels to clean up and paint as well as get some new tires.  Plus with winter temperatures and Christmas on the horizon I will probably slow down working on it.


  • Zekkjacen and logmillingman have said thanks

#119 29 Chev ONLINE  

29 Chev

    A Little Off Plumb

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 63590
  • 6,953 Thanks
  • 2,236 posts
  • Location: Ontario Canada

Posted December 04, 2016 - 03:20 PM

Got the driveshaft set into place - slid the rear of the shaft into the bonded coupling and used a block of wood and a piece of mechanics wire to suspend it at the front while I got the front bearing plate installed.  I decided painting the bolt heads with a brush after I installed them was not very efficient so I took two pieces of cardboard and using a gasket punch cut some 3/8" and 5/16" holes in them and then screw nailed them to a short 2x4, set the 2x4 on two axle stands, set the bolts in and painted the heads.  In the meantime I used longer bolts with nuts on them to mount the front bearing plate in position - I can remove the bolts and replace them with the correct ones after the paint has dried.  Got a new self aligning bearing for the front of the driveshaft and installed it.  After checking to make sure I could slide the steering cross shaft in through the right bushing I installed the left bushing - used a piece of 3/8" threaded rod, two 3/8" nuts, two flat washers, a piece of metal with a 3/8" hole in it and a socket to pull it in by tightening the nuts.  Then I installed the cross shaft, steering gear and arm, washers and secured it with two cotter pins in the holes in the shaft - slid the clutch pedal onto the shaft and made a new outer washer (since it appeared to be missing) using a 1/2" flat washer and boring the inside hole out to 5/8" in the lathe.  Hope I am not boring people with all the reassembly details.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Driveshaft Assy Suspend On Wire Temporarily.jpg
  • 2 Bolt Holders For Painting.jpg
  • 3 Bolts Painted.jpg
  • 4 Using Longer Bolts With Nuts.jpg
  • 5 Front Bearing Support In Place.jpg
  • 6 Front Driveshaft Bearing Installed.jpg
  • 7 Setup To Pull In Left Steering Shaft Bushing.jpg
  • 8 Starting To Pull In Bushing.jpg
  • 9 Starting To Pull In Bushing.jpg
  • 10 Bushing Installed.jpg
  • 11 Clutch Pedal Installed.jpg
  • 13 New Outer Washer Made From Half Inch Washer.jpg
  • 14 Steering Gear And Arm Installed.jpg
  • 15 Left Inner Cotter Pin And Washer On Steering Crosss Shaft.jpg

  • blackjackjakexxix, WrenchinOnIt, TomLGT195 and 6 others have said thanks

#120 Bolens800uk OFFLINE  

Bolens800uk
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 63893
  • 1,572 Thanks
  • 1,115 posts
  • Location: Devon, England

Posted December 04, 2016 - 03:53 PM

Stew, another informative thread by you and it gives me the impetus to have a go at my troublesome 1254''s transmission....

I will reading your updates with a keen interest.

Andrew

Edited by Bolens800uk, December 04, 2016 - 03:54 PM.

  • 29 Chev said thank you




Top