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Bolens 1053 Return to Service Project


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#76 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted November 15, 2016 - 04:38 PM

Nice story Kevin - Thanks. 

 

Gave the tubes a final sand with the DA sander, washed them off with thinners, applied self etching primer and then painted them.  In between coats I worked away at stripping the parts off of the mounting plate.  Got the clutch and driveshaft and various brackets off and was left with the cross shaft and the steering gear and arm - the gear and arm were seized to the shaft which I have encountered before - not a big deal but unfortunately the assembly the way it sat would be awkward to unseize and press out - my little home made press is not big enough to fit the support into it.  I knew from past experience with a 1050 that if I could remove the left bushing then the bushing hole would be big enough to let the shaft pivot enough to be removed.  I tried to drive the bushing out with a small flat screwdriver but I was starting to damage the edge of the bushing and I knew if I kept going I would destroy the bushing - I wanted to try and save it if possible as it did not appear to be worn very much.  I put my thinking cap on and came up with a plan - found a piece of plastic water pipe I had left over from another project that appeared to have a nice thin wall.  Cut a slit in the pipe so I could compress it over the cross shaft with a hose clamp and then hit the end of it with a hammer thinking the worst that will happen is the pipe will split - made sure I had a pair of gloves on my hand and was wearing safety glasses in case the pipe fractured.  To my surprise the pipe started to drive the bushing out so I stopped and took a picture.  Tapped on the end until the bushing was out but then I found the pipe was trapped in the hole - it must have been very close to the thickness of the bushing.  I sprayed the part that was sticking through the hole with some WD40 and tightened the hose clamp on the pipe so it would bind with the shaft and tapped the shaft back out and removed the pipe.  The bushing came out undamaged except for where I had tried to move it with the screwdriver. 

 

Can anyone advise what the thickness of the friction material used on the pulley and the brake plate and the thickness of the material on the brake arm would have been originally?

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Tubes Given Final Sand.jpg
  • 2 Self Etching Primer Applied.jpg
  • 3 Tubes Painted.jpg
  • 4 Tubes Painted.jpg
  • 5 Starting To Strip Mounting Plate.jpg
  • 6 Steering Gear And Arm Seized To Cross Shaft.jpg
  • 7 Plastic Water Pipe.jpg
  • 8 Pipe Around Cross Shaft And Compressed With Hose Clamp.jpg
  • 9 Bushing Moved.jpg
  • 10 Bushing Out Of Hole.jpg
  • 11 Hose Clamp Tightened And Shaft Tapped Back To Remove Pipe From Hole.jpg
  • 12 Enough Room To Remove Cross Shaft With Steering Gear And Arm.jpg
  • 13 Bushing Marked Where I Tried To Remove WIth Screwdriver.jpg

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#77 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted November 15, 2016 - 07:46 PM

Got the clutch unit taken apart - used the impact to remove the front nut where the shaft goes through the front support bearing.  Unthreaded the front clutch flange off of the driveshaft -  used a large adjustable on the two flats on the clutch flange and held the driveshaft at the rear with a pair of vise grips.  There is nothing left of the friction disc that should have been bonded to the brake plate and the front friction disc is missing from the pulley - looks like things have been steel against steel for the last while the tractor was used. The splines look in good shape and there is a bit of lining left on the rear side of the pulley.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Clutch And Driveshaft Removed.jpg
  • 2 Unthreading Clutch Flange.jpg
  • 3 Driveshaft.jpg
  • 4 No Lining Left On Brake Plate.jpg
  • 5 No Lining Left On Front Face Of Pulley.jpg
  • 6 Some Lining Left On Rear Face Of Pulley.jpg

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#78 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted November 17, 2016 - 05:29 PM

Pressed the needle bearing out of the pulley and removed the snap ring retaining the release bearing to the rear clutch flange.  Then I used a puller to remove the release bearing from the clutch flange - started off using a piece of angle iron over the splined end to start the bearing moving and then switched over to a half inch nut and flat washer once the bearing was flush with the angle iron.  Pressed the bearing out of the retainer and then cleaned the pulley, clutch flanges, brake plate and retainer up - noticed remains of weld on retainer and brake plate from somewhere in its past.  Decided to true up the surfaces on the pulley and clutch flanges where things had been steel against steel so I took a few light cuts off things in the lathe - once that was done I sanded the surfaces with the DA sander and 80 grit sandpaper. 

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Bearings And Snap Ring Removed.jpg
  • 2 Pulley And Clutch Flange With Release Bearing.jpg
  • 3 Pulling Bearing Off Of Hub.jpg
  • 4 Switched Over To Half Inch Nut And Washer.jpg
  • 5 Bearing Removed From Clutch Flange.jpg
  • 6 Bearing Pressed Out Of Retainer.jpg
  • 7 Remains Of Weld On Retainer And Brake Plate.jpg
  • 8 Cleaning Up Back Of Clutch Flange Where Brake Plate Makes Contact.jpg
  • 9 Cleaning Up Pulley Face.jpg
  • 10 Cleaning Up Pulley Side Of Front Flange.jpg
  • 11 Pulley And Flanges After Sanding.jpg
  • 12 Pulley And Flanges After Sanding.jpg

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#79 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted November 17, 2016 - 05:35 PM

Straightened the brake plate to make it flat again and welded in the gouge marks on the brake plate and then sanded the welds smooth.  Removed the brake arm that goes against the brake drum on the transmission - someone had screw nailed a piece of old belt onto the arm to act as a friction material - interesting fix but they used steel screw nails instead of brass so if the belt had of worn much the screw nails would have been wearing into the brake drum.  Removed the screw nails and cleaned up the arm.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Gouges In Brake Plate Welded And Sanded.jpg
  • 2 Gouges In Brake Plate Welded And Sanded Other Side.jpg
  • 3 Brake Arm WIth Piece Of Belt Screwnailed To It.jpg
  • 4 Brake Arm WIth Piece Of Belt Screwnailed To It.jpg
  • 5 Brake Arm Cleaned Up.jpg
  • 6 Brake Arm Cleaned Up.jpg

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#80 Bruce Dorsi OFFLINE  

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Posted November 17, 2016 - 06:36 PM

You do very nice work, Sir !!!   :worshippy1:  


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#81 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted November 17, 2016 - 07:00 PM

Thanks for the kind words - she won't be a beauty queen but it should be mechanically sound and look respectable when I am done (I hope).

 

Welded and ground the mounting plate where the plate for the left hand lift lever had been attached and then I took the wire brush to the mounting plate - the plate is pitted on top and where crud has sat in the area where the frame tubes and the steering column make contact under the battery area. 

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Mounting Plate Welded And Ground Where Plate For Left Lift Lever Had Been Welded On.jpg
  • 2 Mounting Plate Cleaned Up With Wire Brush.jpg
  • 3 Mounting Plate Pitted On Top And Where Frame Tubes Go.jpg
  • 4 Bottom Side Of Mounting Plate.jpg
  • 5 Mounting Plate Where Lift Lever Attaches.jpg

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#82 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted November 18, 2016 - 01:41 PM

Welded the worst of the pitted areas and then ground and sanded the welds and got the mounting plate looking fairly decent.  Then I gave it a couple of coats of self etching primer and after the primer dried I painted the mounting plate.  Also got the transmission caps cleaned up and painted.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Pitted Areas Welded And Sanded.jpg
  • 2 Pitted Areas Welded And Sanded.jpg
  • 3 Pitted Areas Welded And Sanded.jpg
  • 4 Self Etching Primer Apllied.jpg
  • 5 Self Etching Primer Apllied.jpg
  • 6 Mounting Plate Painted.jpg
  • 7 Mounting Plate Painted.jpg
  • 8 Mounting Plate Painted.jpg
  • 9 Transmission Caps Painted.jpg
  • 10 Transmission Caps Painted.jpg

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#83 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted November 20, 2016 - 05:20 PM

Got the rod and linkage the brake arm attaches to cleaned up and painted - also the two brackets that go on the centre mounting plate bolts to support the cowl panel.  In between coats of paint I decided to try and press the shaft out of the steering gear and arm - the arm and gear were firmly attached to the shaft and my little two ton jack in my home made press would not move them.  Got the map gas torch out and after about ten minutes of heating the gear and the arm where the shaft went through them the shaft started to move.  After cleaning up the gear I see there is a little wear on the three middle teeth so I will have to try and repair them.  I also got a bunch of parts degreased and wire brushed - I see there is evidence where something was welded to the clutch yoke support - when I took it apart the spacer that goes in the hole was missing so I will have to make a new one.  I also noticed the eye of the cotter key for the tensioner spring has a couple of grooves worn in it which is normal - fourty five plus years of being used causes some parts to wear.  I also remembered that I had not installed the vent back in the transmission so I got it pressed back in.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Brake Arm Linkage And Cowl Brackets Painted.jpg
  • 2 Steering Arm And Gear Removed From Shaft.jpg
  • 3 Middle Teeth Worn A Bit.jpg
  • 4 Something Was Welded Onto Clutch Yoke Support.jpg
  • 5 Something Was Welded Onto Clutch Yoke Support.jpg
  • 6 Eye Of Cotter Pin Getting Worn By Spring.jpg
  • 7 Bin Full Of Parts Degreased And Wire Brushed.jpg
  • 8 Transmission Vent Installed.jpg

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#84 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted November 20, 2016 - 05:42 PM

I still had the extension that I made up for the engine stand when I did my last 1050 a couple of years ago and since the 1053 is basically the same tractor decided to use it again - I bolted it on to the front of the engine stand and loosely installed the caps on the side of the transmission and set the two frame tubes in place.  Then I attached the front axle support and the plate that goes on top of the frame tubes - left the bolts loose while I lined the frame tubes up and made sure they were both equal distance from the transmission to the front (the rear of the right frame tube sits against the roll pin in the transmission case). Once they were in place I supported the transmission on two axle stands and the front axle support with wooden blocks.  I removed the supports that attached the transmission to the engine stand and replaced them with a metal frame work that attaches to the transmission where the two rear pin holes are using two 1/2" bolts and nuts and connected the front axle support to another bracket that mounts to the front post with a 1/2" bolt and attaches to the three holes where the hood hinge mounts.  This setup will allow me to work on things at a higher level and be able to rotate the whole unit to the left or right as necessary and I can roll everything off to the side out of the road when I am not working on the tractor.  I then attached the mounting plate using the six bolts that hold it in place making sure the two brackets were on the centre bolts for the bottom of the cowl panel - just hand threaded ordinary nuts rather than the lock nuts on the bolts right now as I will have to remove a few nuts to attach the brake arm linkage.  

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Extension Bolted On To Engine Stand.jpg
  • 2 Extension Close Up.jpg
  • 3 Frame Tubes In Place.jpg
  • 4 Front Axle Support Installed.jpg
  • 5 Mounting Plate Attached.jpg
  • 6 Mounting Plate Attached.jpg

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#85 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted November 21, 2016 - 03:53 PM

Got the teeth on the steering gear welded and ground - the teeth aren't perfect but look better than they did in my opinion.  The holes that the release bearing pins go through were worn a little bit so I welded the worn spots and then used the die grinder and a 1/4" carbide burr to clean up the welds.  I also got a new release bearing and pressed it into the retainer - then I did some more cleaning, sanding and masked a few parts where I did not want paint to go and got some more parts painted.  Set some cardboard on top of the frame rails and used them as a temporary paint bench.   

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Steering Gear Teeth And Clutch Yoke Slots Welded And Ground.jpg
  • 2 Steering Gear Close Up.jpg
  • 3 Clutch Yoke Slots Close Up.jpg
  • 4 New Release Bearing Installed In Retainer.jpg
  • 5 New Release Bearing Installed In Retainer.jpg
  • 6 Some More Parts Painted.jpg
  • 7 Some More Parts Painted.jpg

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#86 SC Farmer OFFLINE  

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Posted November 21, 2016 - 07:49 PM

Good, exact descriptions of your work.  Nice.  Continuing to look forward to the end state!


Edited by SC Farmer, November 21, 2016 - 07:49 PM.

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#87 ClassicBolens OFFLINE  

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Posted November 22, 2016 - 10:33 AM

I think that Chev needs a good camera crew and a YouTube channel. I've been doing this stuff for years, yet your posts are captivating. A lot of people can learn from your work (and your work ethic). Your posts are well written and very thorough. You've proven time and again that you can get the job done, even when you don't have necessarily the correct or greatest tools for the job and have to resort to more unconventional approach. Many people would have left this tractor out to pasture because it is "too far gone". I forsee a beautiful tractor that will likely be more mechanically sound than 95% of the "restorations" we typically see.
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#88 Austen ONLINE  

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Posted November 22, 2016 - 01:26 PM

I think that Chev needs a good camera crew and a YouTube channel. I've been doing this stuff for years, yet your posts are captivating. A lot of people can learn from your work (and your work ethic). Your posts are well written and very thorough. You've proven time and again that you can get the job done, even when you don't have necessarily the correct or greatest tools for the job and have to resort to more unconventional approach. Many people would have left this tractor out to pasture because it is "too far gone". I forsee a beautiful tractor that will likely be more mechanically sound than 95% of the "restorations" we typically see.

 

Ditto! That would be cool.

 

Keep up the great work, Stew! :thumbs:


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#89 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted November 22, 2016 - 05:39 PM

Thanks so much for the kind words - as I have stated the tractor won't be a beauty queen but I hope it will be a nice dependable work horse for years to come.  It is my hope that this thread will help people with tube frame tractors who want to tackle a repair job but are hesitant to because they are not sure what they may encounter or how to do it - while the tube frame series tractors such as the 1053 model are fairly simple they can be a bit intimidating to someone who had never had one apart and detailed pictures showing how they are put together should help.  For years people have shared with me knowledge and mechanical skills (sometimes without knowing it) as they allowed me the opportunity to observe their work and ask questions and thanks to this site I can pay some of it forward and share it with others.

 

Got a new spacer made for the clutch yokes where they pivot - went with .690" on the O.D., .375" I.D. and .3125" thick - not sure how close this is to the original one - may be a little bit larger on the O.D. but it fits the hole in the yoke support which is probably worn a little bit.  Got some more of the clutch parts cleaned up and also some other items cleaned up and painted and unmasked the parts I painted yesterday and put them in a box until I get the pulley, brake arm and brake plate relined.  In between coats I had a look at the engine pulley that came with the 1050 parts and remembered why I left it in the box - it is the two piece variety (someone must have gotten rough with it trying to remove it).  I am assuming it is the original pulley off of the 1053 given the colour of paint on it - not sure if I can repair it or not (running a couple of ideas through my head) - might be easier to find a good used one or make a new one??    

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Bushing Made For Clutch Yoke Pivot.jpg
  • 2 A Few Parts Cleaned Up.jpg
  • 3 More Parts Cleaned Up And Painted.jpg
  • 4 More Parts Cleaned Up And Painted.jpg
  • 5 Parts Unmasked.jpg
  • 6 Engine Pulley.jpg
  • 7 Engine Pulley.jpg

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#90 Dave in NY OFFLINE  

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Posted November 22, 2016 - 08:15 PM

That pulley would be quite a challenge! Be easier to just find another? Are you going to rebuild a motor too? You do some very impressive work!


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