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Bolens 1053 Return to Service Project


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#61 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted November 11, 2016 - 08:12 PM

Slid the input shaft into the three gear cluster and into the rear input shaft bearing making sure the rear thrust washer stayed in place.  Installed the front snap ring that holds the front input shaft bearing in place and then I checked the forward gear on the output shaft to see how it was meshing with the 15 tooth gear.  The gears got tight in one spot when rotating them against each other so I marked the four teeth on the 15 tooth gear ( figured I might have to do a little bit of final grinding on the gear) with a marker, removed the front snap ring, slid the front input shaft bearing and input shaft out of the transmission and removed the three gear cluster.  I addressed the teeth with a light grinding at the bottom of the teeth profile where I had welded and then finished taking a little bit off the welded area with a flat file and after three more test fits I got the gears so they were not binding.  I put a rag in each end of the cluster and wrapped a piece of masking tape over the oil hole in the shaft ( some early versions of the three gear cluster did not have an oil hole drilled in them) to keep any dirt and filings out of the bearings while I worked on the gear.  Once things were turning nicely I reinstalled the front snap ring to lock the front input shaft bearing in place and then moved on to installing the Hi Lo shaft and two gear cluster as I wanted to see how the front gear meshed with it before I finished installing the input shaft.  I set the pieces out for the Hi Lo shaft install, installed a new front bearing on it after filling it with grease ( the original bearing would have done but I got a new bearing at a reasonable price so I figured I would replace it) and installed the front snap ring on the shaft that holds the bearing on.  Once that was done I set the two gear cluster in the transmission and slid the shaft through it and installed the snap ring on the shaft that is about two inches from the rear, set the rear gear into the rear needle bearing after I lubricated the needle bearing with gear lube and locked it on with the rear snap ring.  Then I slid the two gear cluster forward and felt how the front gear on it meshed with the 15 tooth gear on the three gear cluster - everything felt good and things turned smoothly which made me happy and I installed the front snap ring that retains the front Hi Lo shaft bearing in place.  When I was taking the rear snap rings off the Hi Lo and input shafts there was a washer on each one that I don't think should have been there (looked like they were thrust washers for the three gear cluster).  I assume that somebody changed the cluster with one from another transmission at one time and had two extra washers and decided that they should go against the rear snap rings.  There are no washers shown in the parts break down and when they were installed it made removing the snap rings harder because there was no clearance between the snap rings and the rear gears to let the tangs of the snap ring pliers go through the holes in the snap rings more for a better grip.  

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Input Shaft And Bearing Inserted Into Case And Through Three Gear Cluster.jpg
  • 2 Making Sure Rear Thrust Washer Still In Place.jpg
  • 3 Front Snap Ring In Place For Front Input Shaft Bearing.jpg
  • 4 Input Shaft Through Rear Bearing.jpg
  • 5 Checking Mesh Of Front Gear On Cluster WIth Front Gear On Output Shaft.jpg
  • 6 Parts To Install Hi Lo Range Shaft.jpg
  • 7 Front Bearing On Hi Lo Shaft And Front Snap Ring In Place.jpg
  • 8 Rear Snap Ring For Front Hi Lo Shaft Bearing In Case.jpg
  • 9 Hi Lo Shaft Inserted Through Front And Into Two Gear Cluster.jpg
  • 10 Hi Lo Shaft Inserted Through Front And Into Two Gear Cluster.jpg
  • 11 Snap Ring In Groove About Two Inches From Rear Of Shaft In Place.jpg
  • 12 Rear Hi Lo Shaft Gear Installed And Checking Feel Of Fornt Gear On Cluster.jpg
  • 13 Rear Hi Lo Gear Installed.jpg
  • 14 Front Snap Ring Installed In Case.jpg
  • 15 Rear Snap Ring On Hi Lo Shaft.jpg

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#62 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted November 11, 2016 - 08:25 PM

I slid the input shaft out of the transmission a little bit and slid the front input shaft seal onto the step and then installed the seal into the transmission case - with the seal already on the step it didn't fight me as it would have with the shaft in place as the seal is usually trying to climb onto the step at the same time it is starting to press into the case.  With the seal installed I slid the shaft back into position, installed the rear spacer, the rear gear and a new rear snap ring onto the input shaft.  Then I put a little bit of gasket sealant  around where the expansion plug goes to cover the Hi Lo Shaft front bearing and installed the expansion plug.  Next I set the left and right shifter shafts and forks in position after checking out the O rings on the shafts and lubricating the O rings, shafts and bores with grease and a few drops of gear lube and installed the roll pin in the right shifter fork using a wire with a small hook inserted from the bottom to keep the holes line up until I got the pin started.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Input Shaft Slid Out A Bit.jpg
  • 2 Input Shaft Seal Slid On To Step.jpg
  • 3 Input Shaft Seal Installed.jpg
  • 4 Rear Spacer Installed On Input Shaft.jpg
  • 5 Rear Gear And Snap Ring Installed On Input Shaft.jpg
  • 6 Front Expansion Plug Installed.jpg
  • 7 Left And Right Shifter Shafts And Forks Set In Position.jpg
  • 8 Hole Lined Up For Roll Pin In Right Shaft.jpg
  • 9 Wire Slid Into Hole From Underneath To Hold Alignment While Installing Roll Pin.jpg
  • 10 Alignment Wire.jpg

Edited by 29 Chev, November 11, 2016 - 08:31 PM.

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#63 blackjackjakexxix ONLINE  

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Posted November 11, 2016 - 08:40 PM

Nice work Stew
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#64 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted November 11, 2016 - 08:54 PM

Put a short piece of round stock in the rear of the left shifter rail bore (leaving the access hole open) and after verifying the length of the interlock pin at .300" and the balls as .250" rolled the transmission so gravity was working with me.  Made sure the right shift rail was in the middle detent position and installed one ball and the spring and interlock pin (filled the spring with grease as suggested in the manual) and the second ball in through the left hand access hole - held my thumb over the front of the shifter rail bore hole so things stayed in position and used a small flat screwdriver to work the pieces into the hole where they belong. With the second ball sitting about half way into the hole I slid a punch in through the left access hole, pushed the ball in flush and slid the piece of round stock ahead to trap the ball in.  Then I slid the left shift rail into the bore forcing the piece of round stock out and installed the roll pin in the left shifter fork. Checked to make sure the interlock worked which it did and then installed the Hi Lo shift rail, shifter fork and secured it with a roll pin.  Rolled the transmission back the other way and installed the ball, spring and set screw for the Hi Lo shaft detent - turned the set screw in flush with the transmission case after I put a little blue thread locker on it. Then I installed the set screw on the left hand so it was flush - again put a little blue thread locker on the threads.  Installed the seal at the front of the output shaft and after cleaning out the bore of the brake drum with some rolled up sand paper slid it onto the front of the output shaft and installed the roll pin - started the roll pin into the hole in the drum and used a 1/8" punch inserted from the bottom to line the holes up.  Once in position I used a pair of vise grips to push the roll pin home.  Masked the input shaft and gave things a splash of paint.  

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Short Piece Of Round Stock In Rear Of Shifter Rail Hole.jpg
  • 2 Short Piece Of Round Stock In Rear Of Shifter Rail Hole.jpg
  • 3 Verifying Length Of Pin Is Correct.jpg
  • 4 Ball Spring Pin And Ball In Position.jpg
  • 5 Ball Trapped By Round Stock Slid Forward.jpg
  • 6 Left Shift Rail Slid Into Position.jpg
  • 7 Roll Pin Installed In Left Shifter Fork.jpg
  • 8 Hi Lo Shift Rail Installed.jpg
  • 9 Right Set Screw Installed Flush With Case.jpg
  • 10 Left Set Screw Installed Flush With Case.jpg
  • 11 Output SHaft Front Seal And Brake Drum Installed.jpg
  • 12 Input Shaft Spline Masked.jpg
  • 13 A Splash Of Paint.jpg
  • 14 A Splash Of Paint.jpg

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#65 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted November 11, 2016 - 09:00 PM

I checked to make sure everything engaged and turned smoothly in the various gears and ranges as per the pictures.  I decided to remove the bronze vent filter located in the right front corner of the case.  Placed a half inch nut over the filter and used a pair of vise grips to push it up out of the case - once it was up flush at the bottom I used a pair of side cutters to gently grab it and pry it out the rest of the way.  I left it soaking in some brake cleaner sprayed into an oil container cap to loosen up any crud and called it a day.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Neutral Lo Range.jpg
  • 2 Neutral Hi Range.jpg
  • 3 First Gear.jpg
  • 4 Reverse.jpg
  • 5 Second Gear.jpg
  • 6 Third Gear.jpg
  • 7 Breather Vent.jpg
  • 8 Half Inch Nut Over Breather.jpg
  • 9 Breather Pushed Up With Vise Grips.jpg
  • 10 Breather Vent Removed.jpg
  • 11 Vent Soaking.jpg

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#66 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted November 12, 2016 - 06:48 PM

Started to work on the frame tubes today - as you may remember someone had welded angle iron brackets and extended them for a different engine.  Ground the welds using the die grinder and removed the angle iron pieces - compared the tubes with my 1050 and it appeared that they someone had just welded on sections from another tube frame tractor onto the front end of the tubes so I cut the extensions off where they were welded using the chop saw and returned them to the stock length.  There were two extra holes drilled in one tube and a couple of the bolts that hold the side shields on had been twisted off but other than that they appeared to be correct.  Finished sanding the remains of the welds from the angle iron and then wire brushed the tubes to clean them up for inspection.  The front ends of the tubes had been squeezed down which is normal from the front bolts applying pressure on them and there was some bad pitting in the area where the battery tray is located and the cowl sits - battery acid and crud sitting on them had taken their toll over the years.  I used a hammer and reshaped the front tube so they were round again.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Frame Tubes With Angle Iron Welded On.jpg
  • 2 Welds Ground And Angle Iron Pieces Removed.jpg
  • 3 Frame Tube Extension Pieces Cut Off.jpg
  • 4 Frame Tube Extension Pieces Cut Off.jpg
  • 5 Length Of Frame Tubes.jpg
  • 6 Tubes Squeezed Down At Front End.jpg
  • 7 Remains Of Welds Sanded Off.jpg
  • 8 One Of Two Broken Bolts For Side Tube Cover.jpg
  • 9 Tubes Badly Pitted From Acid And Crud.jpg
  • 10 Tubes Wire Brushed.jpg
  • 11 Tube End Reshaped Round Again.jpg
  • 12 Tube End Reshaped Round Again.jpg

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#67 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted November 12, 2016 - 06:52 PM

Then I built up the pitted areas and the areas where I had ground into the tubes at the front with the mig welder - got the one tube sanded off and it looks not too bad now in my opinion - still have to sand the second tube.  The tubes warped a little bit from the welding so I will have to try and straighten them - I also built up the two broken bolts with the mig welder and turned them out.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 One Tube Welded And Sanded And Other One Welded.jpg
  • 2 One Tube Welded And Sanded And Other One Welded.jpg
  • 3 One Tube Welded And Sanded And Other One Welded.jpg
  • 4 One Tube Welded And Sanded And Other One Welded.jpg
  • 5 Broken Bolts Removed.jpg

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#68 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted November 13, 2016 - 05:35 PM

Sanded the other frame tube and then straightened them using a floor jack, a chain and a pieces of U channel - not the best setup as the tube tried to kick a little bit but watched things carefully and kept my hands and legs clear and got the tubes straightened.  Thought of a few ideas of how to reinforce the tubes at the front where the bolts go through to hold the engine and where the tubes attach to the front support - measured the inside of the tube and it was about 1-5/8" so I went with a piece of 3/4" x 1/8" and two pieces of 1-1/2" x 1/8" flat steel 9" long and made a U to fit inside the tube.  Drilled four 3/8" holes in the piece 3/4" wide to match the holes in the tube and then welded the two 1-1/2" pieces on top of it which created a 1/2" wide spacing inside the U.  Cut three 1/2" x 3/4" x 1/8" spacers and tack welded them to the top of the U to keep the spacing even at the open part of the U.  Sanded the welds so that they would not stick out past the bottom of the U, put a little bit of a taper on the outer top edges of the sides with the sander, squeezed the sides of the tube with two pairs of vise grips to oblong the tube a little bit and slid the insert inside the tube - once it was in about half way I had to tap it gently with a hammer to get it in the rest of the way.  Made sure the holes were lined up ( had to rotate the U just a tad with a punch) and tacked the U at the front opening of the tube so the insert won't move.  Then I used a drill bit the same size as the holes in the tube and enlarged the 3/8" holes in the bottom of the U to match the ones in the tube.  Will have to make another insert for the other tube to match. 

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Welds Sanded On Tubes And Straightened.jpg
  • 2 Jack Setup To Straighten Tubes.jpg
  • 3 Front Bolt Holes Cleaned Up Where I Welded.jpg
  • 4 Pitted Areas Sanded.jpg
  • 5 Bottom And Sides Cut For Insert.jpg
  • 6 Holes Drilled To Match Holes In Tube.jpg
  • 7 Sides Welded To Bottom.jpg
  • 8 Sides Welded To Bottom.jpg
  • 9 Three Half Inch Spaces Welded In.jpg
  • 10 Sides Of Tube Compressed With Vise Grips.jpg
  • 11 Insert Inside Tube.jpg
  • 12 Holes Lined Up.jpg
  • 13 Insert Tack Welded At Front Opening.jpg
  • 14 Holes In Insert Drilled Out To Match Size Of Holes In Tube.jpg

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#69 ClassicBolens OFFLINE  

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Posted November 13, 2016 - 06:03 PM

Love the floor jack rig! Perhaps a little unconventional, but hey if it works, it works. Just be careful with stuff like this. Things can go very wrong in the blink of an eye.
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#70 Austen ONLINE  

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Posted November 13, 2016 - 06:38 PM

Great work!! Thanks for documenting it all.


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#71 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted November 13, 2016 - 06:51 PM

Love the floor jack rig! Perhaps a little unconventional, but hey if it works, it works. Just be careful with stuff like this. Things can go very wrong in the blink of an eye.

It is unconventional and I agree that you have to be very careful with using a floor jack like that - that is why I kept it very close to the ground and set it up so that everything was pretty much trapped under the jack if something slipped.  Wish I had a large press that I could have used instead but sometimes you have to make do with what you have.


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#72 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted November 14, 2016 - 05:26 PM

Got the other insert made and installed and then I tackled separating the front support from the front axle.  When I was taking the tractor apart I had given the front axle pivot pin a tap with the hammer to see if it would move and it did not so I assumed the pin was seized inside the axle.  Removed the roll pin from the rear of the pin and noticed there was not grease fitting in the bottom of the front axle so I figured I was in for a bit of a challenge as I don't think the pin had seen any grease for a long time.  Tried to move the pivot pin with the air chisel using a blunt driver but it was quite happy in its home and did not want to budge.  Got the Map gas torch out and heated the bottom area of the axle where the pin goes through it for about 10 minutes and then tried the air chisel again - it moved about 1/8".  Drove the pin back the other way and heated the bottom of the axle a bit more and after driving it back and forth a few times finally got the pin out.  Had a look at the pin and saw that it was badly worn where it made contact with the front support - the holes in the front support and the axle look good so I will just have to repair the pin or make a new one.  Ran a 5/8" drill bit through the hole in the front axle and got rid of a little bit of crud and then set the axle aside and started to clean up the front support.  Removed the three 5/16" bolts where the hood hinge would have mounted and then used a 5/16" course tap to clean out the threads as the bolts were tight coming out.  Then I used a 3/8" course tap to chase the threads for the three bolts that hold the PTO and the four holes where the frame tubes attach to it.  I then gave it a good cleaning with a wire brush - scraped the areas on the inside where the wire brush would not fit to get rid of any grease and crud.  Also cleaned up the front plate that covers the frame tubes at the front.  Gave both pieces a good scrubbing with varsol, washed them off with water and then blew them off with compressed air.  Then I washed them both with thinners and used a course scotch brite pad to sand them, washed them again with thinners and painted them.       

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Second Frame Tube With Insert.jpg
  • 2 Roll Pin Removed From Axle Pivot Pin.jpg
  • 3 No Grease Fitting In Axle.jpg
  • 4 Axle Pin Finally Moved A Bit.jpg
  • 5 Axle Pin Removed And Worn At Support Contact Areas.jpg
  • 6 Holes In Support Not Worn Too Bad.jpg
  • 7 Pin Hole In Front Axle.jpg
  • 8 Front Plate Cleaned Up And Painted.jpg
  • 9 Front Support CLeaned Up And Painted.jpg
  • 10 Front Support Painted.jpg
  • 11 Front Support Painted.jpg
  • 12 Front Support Painted.jpg

Edited by 29 Chev, November 15, 2016 - 04:38 PM.

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#73 Bruce Dorsi ONLINE  

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Posted November 14, 2016 - 05:56 PM

The bottom of the axle appears to have been flailed by a PTO universal which was not removed from the tractor.

 

Is there another explanation?


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#74 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted November 14, 2016 - 07:16 PM

The bottom of the axle appears to have been flailed by a PTO universal which was not removed from the tractor.

 

Is there another explanation?

It could very well have been a PTO universal left on or it could be a snow thrower driveshaft or some other front attachment shaft could have rubbed the axle there as with the frame extended and the PTO mounted on the rear support ( there were two supports on this tractor as the attached pictures give a better view of the PTO that was on it)  the shaft on any attachment would have had to have been lengthened (as you can see in the picture of the snow thrower)  and the shaft would probably be very close to the axle when the attachment was lifted.  There definitely appears to be more wear in this area than the axle from one of my 1050's had - it would be interesting if the tractor could talk to hear its story from when it was born until now.  I don't think the wear will weaken the axle much - may build it up a little bit with the mig when I start working on the axle.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 13 1050 Axle Bottom.jpg
  • 14 PTO Mounted On Tractor.jpg
  • 15 PTO In Relation To Front Support.jpg
  • 16 Snow Thrower That Came With Tractor.jpg

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#75 WrenchinOnIt ONLINE  

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Posted November 14, 2016 - 08:50 PM

..... - it would be interesting if the tractor could talk to hear its story from when it was born until now. 


Okay I'll take a shot. As it was getting 're-engineered by the P.O. who did it wrong " Hey!! WTF are you doing? Are you chittin me ? Ah great are you going to give me heart burn or azz burn ? Chit you weren't kidding, Holy Chit it's getting hot. Okay Rube Goldberg now what ? Your kidding are you going to leave me like this ? Why o why didn't you pick on a John Deere "

For the last year " Stew.... Stew.... you promised, come on tell them GTtalk dudes to quit bugging about seat covers I look like Chit !!

Now " Stew... I love you man, seriously "
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