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Bolens 1053 Return to Service Project


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#46 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted November 06, 2016 - 04:10 PM

Thanks for the kind words.  Cleaned the worn areas of the teeth with a file and then built the missing parts back up with the mig welder - may have used a little too high heat setting but I wanted to get good penetration to the gear.  Then I mounted the cluster in the lathe and turned the weld down close to the correct O.D. and then trued up the rear of the gear.  Found out a couple of teeth needed a bit more on top so I turned the heat down and built the top of each tooth up a little bit more and then turned it back down again in the lathe.  Once that was done I used the air die grinder with the 3" cutoff blade to rough out the tooth profile where I had welded.  I started off holding the gear using the same jig I used when I welded it but I found it was a little awkward so I used a saw horse and a pair of C clamp vise grips to hold the cluster.  After the profile was roughed out I chucked the cut off wheel in a 3/8" variable speed electric drill and worked away at slowly shaping the welded area to the correct profile - the drill allowed me to control the amount of material I was removing a lot better since it turned slower. 

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Filed Where Worn To Clean Up.jpg
  • 2 Ready To Build Up Teeth.jpg
  • 3 Teeth Built Up.jpg
  • 4 Weld Turned In Lathe.jpg
  • 5 Weld Turned In Lathe.jpg
  • 6 Top Of Welded Area Built Up Again.jpg
  • 7 Weld Turned In Lathe Again.jpg
  • 8 Tooth Profile Ground Out With Air Die Grinder.jpg
  • 9 Tooth Profile Ground Out With Air Die Grinder.jpg
  • 10 Tooth Profile Taken Further Using Electric Drill.jpg
  • 11 Tooth Profile Taken Further Using Electric Drill.jpg
  • 12 Gear Clamped To Saw Horse With C Clamp Vise Grips To Hold It.jpg
  • 13 Tooth Profile Getting Close.jpg
  • 14 Tooth Profile Getting Close.jpg

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#47 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted November 06, 2016 - 04:18 PM

Once I had the profile very close I used a 2" 36 grit roloc disc mounted in the drill to sand the welded area to the finished profile and gave the rear of the gear a slight chamfer at the upper corner of the teeth which should help it engage easier.  Then I used some 120 gritt sandpaper to finish sanding the tooth surfaces by hand to get the result you see ( I rotated the gear a bit each time I took a picture so you could see all the finished teeth).  The gear is not perfect and the welded area is probably not as hard as what the original surface was but the built up area should provide a bit of strength and more importantly provide a new wear surface to prevent any more wear on the original part of the gear teeth. 

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 3 Inch Cut Off Blade Used In Electric Drill.jpg
  • 2 36 Gritt 2 Inch Rolock Used For Final Sanding.jpg
  • 3 Teeth Sanded.jpg
  • 4 Finished Teeth.jpg
  • 5 Finished Teeth.jpg
  • 6 Finished Teeth.jpg
  • 7 Finished Teeth.jpg
  • 8 Finished Teeth.jpg
  • 9 Finished Teeth.jpg
  • 10 Finished Teeth.jpg
  • 11 Finished Teeth.jpg
  • 12 Finished Teeth.jpg
  • 13 Finished Teeth.jpg
  • 14 Finished Teeth.jpg

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#48 ClassicBolens OFFLINE  

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Posted November 06, 2016 - 04:23 PM

Very nice repair (not that I'm surprised)!
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#49 Bruce Dorsi OFFLINE  

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Posted November 06, 2016 - 04:55 PM

:good_job:       :worshippy1:  

 

Do you find time to sleep ???


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#50 Chubien OFFLINE  

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Posted November 06, 2016 - 04:55 PM

That gear look really good.
Do you prefer rebuilding the gear instead of replacing it? I know you experimented with both methods and had found a compatible gear to replace it with.
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#51 propane1 ONLINE  

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Posted November 06, 2016 - 07:01 PM

I think it may be the challenge of fixing it, is why he does it. Great job again. 29 chev.

Noel
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#52 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted November 07, 2016 - 03:29 PM

:good_job:       :worshippy1:  

 

Do you find time to sleep ???

 

I slept a bit of July and most of August this year as it got very warm and my ambition went downhill quickly.  The weather has been very nice here for November (62 degrees F today) so I am trying to get transmission back together before it turns cold and the white stuff shows up. 

That gear look really good.
Do you prefer rebuilding the gear instead of replacing it? I know you experimented with both methods and had found a compatible gear to replace it with.

I have one 1050 with a gear that I welded the same as this one and one that I replaced the gear on - both seem to be standing up well.  I would probably have replaced the gear on this one if there was much more material worn away.  Attached is a picture of one cluster that came out of the 1050 that I replaced the gear on - it is worn about half way but was still driving fine.  In the picture you can also see a rusty cluster that I got with some 1050 parts - the teeth on it are like tooth picks and would require a new gear as it is worn too far to weld.  Here is a link to an article of how to replace the gear with a new one if anyone is interested - http://gardentractor...e-transmission/ .  Replacing the gear is the better option in my opinion as the gear teeth are uniform but requires more machining and the purchase of a new gear whereas the welding and grinding option is less expensive but cannot provide the same uniformity to the teeth profile.  Once I get this tractor running (if I ever do) and use it for a few months I will pull the cover off and inspect it to see how it is standing up.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Worn Clusters.jpg

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#53 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted November 07, 2016 - 04:08 PM

Repaired the ear on the bearing cap today - couldn't find the broken piece as it flew when it broke off so I decided to repair it the same way as I did the hub ear. Removed the O ring and then I ground the edges of the ear, shaped a piece of copper strip and welded around it with the mig welder.   Then I let it cool, ground the weld, used a carbide burr to clean out the remaining copper and shape the bolt hole round and then washed it out and dried it off.  

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 O Ring And Shims Removed From Bearing Support.jpg
  • 2 Broken Ear.jpg
  • 3 Edges Ground.jpg
  • 4 Copper Strip Cut From Copper Pipe Joiner.jpg
  • 5 Copper Strip Shaped And Set In To Form Hole.jpg
  • 6 Ear Welded.jpg
  • 7 Weld Ground.jpg
  • 8 Weld Ground.jpg
  • 9 Carbide Burr.jpg
  • 10 Hole Cleaned Out.jpg
  • 11 Finished Ear.jpg
  • 12 Finished Ear.jpg

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#54 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted November 07, 2016 - 04:23 PM

Washed up enough parts so I could put the rear axle back in - the drive key was worn a bit on the sides where it went into the drive collar so I cut a new one from some 1/4" keystock and used it.  Slide the axle back in once I had the pieces that it goes through in place, set the new key in place in the eat in the axle, slid the collar over the key and installed the two drive screws making sure the holes were lined up with the indentations they seat in on the axle.  There are a couple of stake marks at the right end of the keyway in the axle that I assume were put there at the factory to keep the key from sliding out of the hub.  I put a little bit of blue threadlocker on the screws, tightened them up and then made a new locking wire out of a piece of mechanics wire.  Then I picked up the parts I ordered - got two bearings for the front of the input shaft and the front of the hi / lo shaft, seals, gasket paper and an 1-1/2" cup style expansion plug so I think I have enough to put the rest of the transmission back together.  I also checked out the original paint on the right outer hub here the wheel had protected it - the first picture is as it washed up and the second picture is after I rubbed the paint with some compound - I think it is a close match.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Parts Washed Up.jpg
  • 2 New Axle Key Cut.jpg
  • 3 Indexing Screws Installed And Wired.jpg
  • 4 New Key Installed - Note Stake Marks On Axle.jpg
  • 5 Got Some Parts.jpg
  • 1 Original Paint On Hub.jpg
  • 2 Paint On Hub After Rubbing With Compound.jpg

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#55 Husky OFFLINE  

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Posted November 08, 2016 - 12:30 PM

Amazing work, I love your posts.


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#56 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted November 08, 2016 - 04:51 PM

Installed the inner seal in the left hand hub, then installed the outer thrust washers and bearings and set them in the recess and installed the outer seal - if you replace the outer seal make sure the outer thrust washers and bearing are in place first as they will not fit through the inside of the seal.  Wrapped some black electrical tape over the threads on the axle so they would not catch the lip on the inner seal.  Lubricated the thrust washers and bearing and the axle and seal lips and slid the hub on and slowly worked it into the bronze bushing and then into the drive tangs on the outer bevel gear by rotating the hub and gently pushing on it.  Once it was in place I put the thrust washer, coupling and the inner axle key on the axle.  Then I greased the inner bore of the drive cone and set it in place along with the outer coupling key and hand tightened the left axle nut and then backed it off to the first hole and keyed the nut.  Moved on to the right axle seal and after lubricating the inner lip installed it - made sure the face of it was in about 1/8" past the edge of the axle housing so the inner thrust washer would not be rubbing on the face of the seal.  As you can see the thrust washer has grooves worn in it where it has rubbed against the axle housing so I installed the thrust washer with the grooves to the outside so that the side against the seal is flat and the grooved side is now against the inner hub.  I filled the area in between the seal and the thrust washer with grease and then liberally greased the axle shaft and the inside of the inner hub so that it should slide easy as it needs to be free to move on the axle when you adjust the end play.  Then I installed the inner hub, lubricated the inside of the outer hub with grease and installed it, and then the two outer washers and hand tightened the right axle nut till I felt things binding and backed it off to the first hole and installed the cotter key.    

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Left Inner Hub Seal Installed.jpg
  • 2 Left Outer Thrust Bearings And Washers Larger Than Hole In Seal.jpg
  • 3 Left Outer Thrust Bearing And Washer Set In Recess.jpg
  • 4 Left Outer Hub Seal Installed.jpg
  • 5 Black Electrical Tape Over Threads To Make Installing Left Hub Easier.jpg
  • 6 Left Hub Installed.jpg
  • 7 Left Axle Hut Adjusted And Keyed.jpg
  • 8 Right Axle Seal Installed.jpg
  • 9 Grooves Worn In Right Hub Washer.jpg
  • 10 Washer Installed With Grooves Out.jpg
  • 11 Right Inner And Outer Hub Installed.jpg
  • 12 Right Outer Axle Nut Adjusted And Keyed.jpg

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#57 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted November 08, 2016 - 04:54 PM

Gave the axle hubs a good wash with paint thinners to remove any oil or grease residue and then the bottom cover plate and the hubs got a coat of paint to make them look nice and keep them from rusting.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Right Hub Painted.jpg
  • 2 Bottom Cover Painted.jpg
  • 3 Hubs Painted.jpg
  • 4 Hubs Painted.jpg

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#58 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted November 09, 2016 - 03:56 PM

Unrolled the sheet of gasket paper, worked it a bit with my hands to get it to lay flat and marked out the bottom cover plate gasket - thought while I was at it I would mark out the gasket for the top of the transmission as well.  Cut out the outside edges of the two gaskets with a pair of scissors and then punched out the bolt holes using my 5/16" gasket punch - also cut a hole at each corner and sharp bend to make cutting the inside piece out - then used the scissors to cut out the inside. Set the top gasket away for safe keeping and installed the lower cover and the hitch and gave then a splash of paint.  Installed the wave washers, adjusting nut and snap ring for the locking hub off of the 1050 parts transmission after I applied grease to the inside of the nut - one of the wave washers was broke so there are only three behind the nut (should be four according to the parts list) - will have to put a couple of wave washers on my Christmas wish list with Santa.  Cleaned up the output shaft and other parts including the lower idler shaft and the 28 tooth bottom gear that runs backwards off of the middle cluster gear to provide reverse.  I found a new O ring in my O ring kit for the idler pin, installed it in the pin groove and slid the pin into the transmission case, through the front thrust washer, gear, and rear thrust washer.  Then I installed the roll pin that holds the idler pin in place.  Once that was done I set the output shaft with the middle bearing and gears in place - I think I could have installed it before I put the lower gear in but without it in the road there was more room to set the rear thrust washers in place and work the idler pin into position.    

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Gaskets Marked Out And Most Holes Punched.jpg
  • 2 Bolt Holes Finished And Inside Cut Out.jpg
  • 3 Bottom Cover And Hitch Installed.jpg
  • 4 Adjusting Nut Wave Washers And Snap Ring From Parts Transmission.jpg
  • 5 Adjsuting Nut Installed.jpg
  • 6 Output Shaft And Other Parts Cleaned Up.jpg
  • 7 Idler Shaft And Roll Pin Installed.jpg
  • 8 28 Tooth Bottom Gear Installed.jpg
  • 9 Output Shaft With Gears Installed.jpg

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#59 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted November 09, 2016 - 04:17 PM

When I was trying to remove the rear bearing cap for the output shaft I damaged one of the shims at the bolt holes as you can see in the first picture.  When I moved the shaft back and forth before disassembly the movement seemed excessive so I decided to remove the damaged shim and see what the end play was without it.  I installed the remaining shims, o ring and applied grease to the outer surface of the cup and bore of the case and put the bearing cap in place and snugged up the retaining bolts - with everything lubricated up the bearing cap slid in nicely with a gentle tap of a block of wood to force the O ring into the bore.  I bumped the back of the bearing cap several times with a block of wood to make sure it was seated and then tightened the three retaining bolts and rotated the input shaft a few revolutions and bumped the front of it with a block of wood to make sure the rear bearing was seated in place.  Rather than using feeler gauges as the repair manual suggests I set up my dial gauge on the front of the shaft, moved the shaft forward, zeroed the gauge and moved the shaft to the rear - the end play measured at .008" which is right at the loose spec (according to the repair manual it should be between .004" and .008").  I removed the cap and removed one more shim, reassembled and got a reading of .005" which I was happy with.  Then I washed off any oil or grease residue with thinners on the bearing cap and painted it. 

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Shim Damaged At Bolt Holes During Removal Of Rear Bearing Cup.jpg
  • 2 Bearing Cap With Shims And O Ring Installed And Greased.jpg
  • 3 Dial Guage On End Of Shaft To Measure End Play.jpg
  • 4 End Play Borderline.jpg
  • 5 One More Shim Removed Shaft Forward.jpg
  • 6 Shaft Rearward.jpg
  • 7 Input Shaft Roller Bearings Lubricated.jpg
  • 8 Bearing Cap Installed.jpg
  • 9 Bearing Cap Painted.jpg

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#60 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted November 11, 2016 - 07:30 PM

Got some more parts cleaned up and ready to install.  The input shaft had some pit marks where the seal runs so I polished it in that area as well as where the needle bearings in the three gear cluster run on it.  Pressed the front and rear needle bearings back into the cluster after I made sure the needles were straight and then I made sure the needles turned inside the cages.  The bearing to replace the front input shaft bearing came with two rubber seals so I used a small flat screwdriver to pop the seals out and then filled the front and rear input shaft bearings and the needle bearings in the cluster with grease.  Then I installed the rear snap ring for the front input shaft bearing and then I set the rear input shaft bearing and rear thrust washer for the three gear cluster in place ( the grease on the rear bearing held the thrust washer in place).  Slid the front input shaft bearing and the front thrust washer onto the input shaft and once that was done I set the three gear cluster into position by sliding the front of it into the front input shaft bearing hole.   

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Input Shaft Before Polishing.jpg
  • 2 Seal And Needle Bearing Surfaces Polished.jpg
  • 3 Parts Cleaned Up.jpg
  • 4 Parts To Install Input Shaft.jpg
  • 5 New Input Shaft Came WIth Seals.jpg
  • 6 Front Needle Bearing Pressed Back Into Cluster.jpg
  • 7 Rear Needle Bearing Pressed Back Into Cluster.jpg
  • 8 Seals Removed From New Input Shaft Bearing.jpg
  • 9 Rear Snap Ring Installed In Front Input Shaft Bearing Hole.jpg
  • 10 Rear Input Shaft Bearing And Rear Thrust Washer Set In Place.jpg
  • 11 Front Input Shaft Bearing And Front Thrust Washer On Input Shaft.jpg
  • 12 Grease In Rear Needle Bearing.jpg
  • 13 Grease In Front Needle Bearing.jpg
  • 14 Three Gear Cluster Set In Place.jpg

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