Outstanding work!! What a transformation from the first picture to the last! I second Austen's comments, enjoy working with your new tractor!!!
Bolens 1053 Return to Service Project
Posted July 19, 2017 - 08:02 PM
- 29 Chev said thank you
Posted July 21, 2017 - 03:38 PM
Got the new carb return and governor springs in the mail yesterday from Bolens Parts And Supplies and installed on the engine today. I found a length of mechanics wire with a hook formed on one end worked well to hook the springs onto the breather tube and into the holes in the governor arm. If you are planning on replacing the springs or adjusting the rod I would strongly recommend you do it with the engine cold as it is very easy to get burnt working around the exhaust pipe (ask me how I know). Took some measurements before I installed them so that if someone is wondering if they have the correct size springs they can match what they have against the sizes in the pictures. About a week ago I started to play with the adjustment on the governor spring rod as the engine acted as if it had no governor and would not maintain a steady rpm when revved up. I checked the operation of the governor arm itself by revving the engine up and found that after about a half second delay the governor arm would try to close the throttle up - this told me the governor was working internally but appeared to be slow to react for some reason. Armed with this information I started to increase tension on the old spring by turning the adjusting screw a few turns at a time to see what affect this would have - after I adjusted the rod about 10 turns I noticed that the engine was starting to act like it had a governor. I used a piece of mechanics wire through the hole where the spring hooks which gave me enough leverage to turn the screw without having to remove the pivot. I think several years ago some idiot (me) thought that loosening the tension on governor spring would make the engine respond better (which it didn't). As I was working on adjusting the governor spring the return spring broke so I jury rigged a return spring using a couple of short light duty springs from my spring assortment. I decided it would be prudent to get the correct return spring and at the same time I figured an new governor spring might be a good idea as well as the one end of the original governor spring appeared to have been bent to form a new hook - I assume at some point in time the end of it had broken (probably years of heat from the exhaust had made it brittle). I tried to order them from a Wisconsin parts supplier in Ontario here in Canada but was told they were NLA so I checked with Bolens 1000 and he had them in stock. I may still have the tension on the governor spring a little on the tight side but the engine appears to hold a very steady RPM once it is at 3/4 to full throttle - tested it by going up a steep incline in second gear hi range. I have not been able to find much information as to what the correct amount of tension should be on the governor spring - right now with the throttle cable pushed all the way in the throttle is held about 1/3 open with the engine shut off. Thought I would post the pictures as it may help someone who is trying to figure out the amount of thread that should be on each side of the pivot the rod swivels on. If someone knows what the correct amount of tension should be perhaps they could post the information. I have also attached a cleaned up pdf version of the information in the Wisconsin Service Manual that discusses the operation and adjustment of the governor arm.
Edited by 29 Chev, July 21, 2017 - 03:42 PM.
- Bolens 1000, Bruce Dorsi, blackjackjakexxix and 5 others have said thanks
Posted January 10, 2019 - 05:05 PM
Removed the left axle nut as well and removed the left hub. The locking nut and wave washers are missing but I got parts of a 1050 transmission when I got this tractor and I think the nut is still on it. The left part of the axle appears to have hot spots where the hub turns - perhaps someone ran it with low fluid level and it stopped getting lubricated there?? Then I called it a day and put a piece of cardboard over the top to keep dirt out and rolled it off out of the way. Will have to start working on cleaning things up and ordering some parts.
Hi stew, I constantly keep looking over your posts for help on my restoration- in this post you removed the left hub, mine is very tight. Does it pull of with a puller? Or how did you remove it, you can pm me or message here. Thanks sam
Posted January 11, 2019 - 07:21 AM
in this post you removed the left hub, mine is very tight. Does it pull of with a puller? Or how did you remove it, you can pm me or message here. Thanks sam
The left hub should turn freely on the axle if the differential lock cone and bushing set up are not causing it to bind. Once the axle nut and the cone, sleeve and axle keys were removed on mine the hub slid off the axle shaft on mine. If you refer to the posts # 8 and #11 by Bruce Dorsi in this thread he offers some suggestions on removing the hub.
I would not recommend using a puller to remove the hub as the hub is cast and as a result fragile if excess pressure is placed on it by using a puller or hitting it. Hope this helps.
- Alc, logmillingman and Sammoore13bolens1053 have said thanks