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Bolens 1053 Return to Service Project


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#481 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted July 02, 2017 - 08:44 PM

Then I decided to push the tractor outside, put some fuel in the tank and see if it had any intentions of starting.  I filled the fuel tank about half full and turned on the fuel valve fully expecting the carb to start leaking since I had not done anything to the carb but it surprised me and there were no leaks.  After a couple of minutes I installed the negative cable, checked again for fuel leaks and applied the choke.  Cranked the engine and on the second revolution it offered but would not stay running by itself - kept trying and after a few attempts of it offering and quitting I went and got the battery charger and hooked it up as the battery was beginning to lose power.  I finally got it to run but only for about ten to fifteen second intervals and then it would quit which didn't surprise me - in the back of my mind I was thinking there was dirt in the carb from it sitting and it had been disturbed while being moved around and it was causing problems.  I removed the main jet and let the gas flow for a second and reinstalled it and tried it again and it started and ran for about twenty seconds before it quit but seemed to be labouring and did not want to rev up much so I turned the fuel off and removed the plug in the bottom of the carb to drain the fuel - I expected to see dirty fuel but it looked clean.  Reinstalled the drain plug, turned the fuel back on and tried starting it again but it still would only run for about twenty seconds and quit so after a few more attempts and tinkering a bit with the main jet adjustment I decided to pull the spark plug - it was black.  I thought to myself bad spark plug (I learned many years ago that a spark plug can be bad right from the package) so I grabbed the old one and installed it.  Cranked the engine and it started and ran for about ten seconds and quit and would not offer to start again.  Grabbed the 12 volt test light and hooked it up to a ground and the negative side of the coil and just as I suspected the light was solid on as the engine was being cranked - I had lost spark.  Verified that I had 12 volts to the module and then I tried the spare crank sensor I keep on hand but I still had no spark.  It turns out the module was not working as I replaced it with a new one I keep on hand for the HEI setup in my Chevelle and I had spark again - the module I had picked for the tractor was a used one that I thought was good but apparently not.  Tried starting the engine with the old plug and it now would stay running but it still would not rev up properly and seemed to be labouring as if the timing was off so I put the new spark plug back in and decided to check the timing with the timing light since the engine would now stay running - attached is a short video I made before I checked the timing.  I had not checked the timing as the sensor was in the same position it was when the engine was taken apart as one of the mounting bracket holes is not adjustable - when I first installed the sensor years ago I made one hole slotted and adjusted the sensor position to set the timing and then drilled the second hole to secure it in the correct position.  When I hooked up the timing light I could not see the timing mark in the window so I removed the fixed screw and began to move the sensor to advance the timing - I moved it about a quarter of an inch and then ran out of adjustment.  I still could not see the timing mark with the timing light so I put a mark on the flywheel about 3/4" away from the timing mark on both sides with a piece of chalk - the advanced side was a single chalk mark and the retarded side was two chalk marks beside each other and tried the timing light again.  I could see the two chalk marks with the light so I knew the timing was still late but at least now the engine would rev up when you opened up the throttle a bit - I made a second video of it starting and running after I advance the timing - did not want to leave it running very long with the timing still off.  By this time it was getting late so I called it a day - so far the engine is still full of oil and do not see any leaks or hear any mysterious knocks or ticks.  Hope to get the bracket modified tomorrow so I can get the timing set correctly and then I can tweak the hi speed jet a bit and let the engine run for a while with no load.  I was surprised that the timing was off that much but in reflection the solid spacers I made to replace the three nut spacers that were used on the second pulley initially may have changed the position of the pulley in relation to the flywheel as they may not allow as much slop for the bolts.    

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#482 Mark 149 J. ONLINE  

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Posted July 02, 2017 - 10:30 PM

That's music to my ears!!!

It sounds really good!

A job well done Sir!


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#483 nkaust OFFLINE  

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Posted July 03, 2017 - 05:47 PM

:happybday: i chose that because its like it was born all over again lol


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#484 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted July 03, 2017 - 06:27 PM

When I went to remove the crank sensor bracket I noticed that the screw holes were starting to strip out in the shroud so I figured I had better fix that problem as well.  Removed the shroud off the engine, drilled out the holes to 3/16" so a 10-32 machine screw would go through them and then I made a support out of 1" x 3" x 1/8" flat steel that got drilled and threaded to accept two 10-32 machine screws.  Set the piece on the inside of the shroud and put in two machine screws, tightened them up and tack welded the support in place with the mig welder.  Burned off some paint so I cleaned up the area and then repainted it. I modified the crank sensor bracket by slotting the second hole and adding a bit of metal to the one side of the slots.  Then I decided that I needed to move the sensor in relation to the bracket but my brain was not working properly so I first moved it the wrong way - finally got it right after a few hours of frustration and I can now set the timing to the correct spot ( I hope).  I removed the sensor and finished welding the bracket and painted it - still can't get over how much I had to move the sensor to get the timing right as I know I had it timed properly when I installed the electronic ignition years ago - can't see the pulley shifting that much in relation to the flywheel - guess it will remain an unsolved mystery.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Holes In Shroud Starting To Strip.jpg
  • 2 Inside View Of Holes In Shroud.jpg
  • 3 Crank Sensor Bracket Before Modifying.jpg
  • 4 Flat Steel Drilled And Threaded.jpg
  • 5 Metal Piece In Position.jpg
  • 6 Tack Welded In Place.jpg
  • 7 Burned Some Paint Off.jpg
  • 8 Bracket Modified And Both Holes Slotted.jpg
  • 9 Burned Off Paint Cleaned Up.jpg
  • 10 Shroud Painted.jpg
  • 11 Sensor Position Moved On Bracket.jpg
  • 12 Sensor Position Moved On Bracket.jpg

Edited by 29 Chev, July 03, 2017 - 06:27 PM.

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#485 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted July 04, 2017 - 03:21 PM

Put the crank sensor back in the bracket, installed it and then finally set the timing with my timing light.  I also verified that the charging system voltage wasn't too high as my timing light also has a display that reads battery voltage - the ammeter was showing it charging about 7 amps with it running and the battery voltage varied from about 13.2 to 14.5 volts depending on how fast the engine was running.  Pushed the tractor outside, added a bit more gas to the tank and started it up and let it run for about 75 minutes today - shut it off a few times to check the oil level and do a few checks after I adjusted the mixture screws - found out I do have an oil seepage when the engine is revved up a bit as it was dripping oil on the right side where the crankcase join is down onto the side cover for the frame tube.  I verified that the oil was not coming from the gasket by wiping things off and checking to see where the oil was originating - seems to be coming out around the seal for the governor shaft.  I did not have a new seal for the shaft when I put the engine back together as it was back ordered at the time but I do have one now so I may have to put it in if the seepage persists.  So far no rattles or knocks - it does have a bit of a whistle when the engine is revved up but I think it had that before if memory serves me correctly and the oil level is still on the full mark. Attached are four videos - the first one is of the engine running, the second shows the crank sensor that triggers the module and also shows there are no wires going to the stud coming out of the points box (you can also see that the paint on the exhaust pipe is getting burnt off), the third is restarting the engine after it had been running for about an hour and shut off for about two minutes and the last video shows what the rear pulley looks like with the engine running - I think I am safe to put the belts on it.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Tractor Outside.jpg
  • 2 Crank Sensor Position Engine Running.jpg
  • 3 Oil Seepage At Governor Shaft.jpg

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#486 Mark 149 J. ONLINE  

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Posted July 05, 2017 - 10:01 AM

Everything sounds and looks great! 

When I was listening to the videos I did hear the whistle that you talked about.  It reminds me of a throttle plate air leak.  I was wondering if the carb throttle shaft is leaking air into the intake due to it being worn down or the mounting surface of the carb not sitting flush to the block due to warp edge? 

Good luck on the rest of the build and I can't wait to see it with all of the decals on it and somebody driving it around!


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#487 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted July 05, 2017 - 03:24 PM

Everything sounds and looks great! 

When I was listening to the videos I did hear the whistle that you talked about.  It reminds me of a throttle plate air leak.  I was wondering if the carb throttle shaft is leaking air into the intake due to it being worn down or the mounting surface of the carb not sitting flush to the block due to warp edge? 

 

 

Thanks for the kind words.  I built up the throttle shaft and installed new bushings and packings for the shaft about two years before I quit running it so I doubt if it is leaking air there - will spray some ether around the intake and throttle shaft sometime after it has ran a bit more and see if I can find a leak.
 


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#488 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted July 05, 2017 - 03:39 PM

Today I decided to finish wiring up the lights and to do that it was necessary to install the rear fender reflective decal and the headlamp decal so it is officially a "Husky" now.  Got the rear decal a little high in relation to the lamp holes and the headlamp decal isn't my best decal installation job but they will do.  Used a Grote 47052 clearance lamp as a sub for the original tail lamp - it comes with two sheet metal screws to mount it but I removed them, drilled the two holes out to 3/16" and used two 10-32 x 1" machine screws to mount it. Ran a wire back from the light switch underneath and then terminated it and a ground source with a two wire polarized plug - this will make the rear fender easy to remove if I have to sometime in the future. Then I installed two 4411 seal beams for headlamps - the parts manual calls for 4406 but I find the 4411's work fine for me and are less money to purchase new (yes I am cheap at times).  Used six 10-32 x 1-1/2" machine screws through the front to attach the two headlamp retaining rings I made - not quite as pretty as the originals but should work fine.  Once that was done the headlamps got wired to the electrical system and I made sure the lights worked and called it a day.  

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Rear Fender Reflective Decal Installed.jpg
  • 2 Tailight Wire Ran WIth Polarized Plug.jpg
  • 3 Grote 47052 Clearnace Lamp Sub For Tailight.jpg
  • 4 Lamp Disassembled And Sheet Metal Screws Removed.jpg
  • 5 Holes Enlarged And Mounted WIth 10 32 Machine Screws.jpg
  • 6 How Things Look Under Fender.jpg
  • 7 How Things Look Under Fender.jpg
  • 8 Lense Installed.jpg
  • 9 In The Sunlight.jpg
  • 10 Husy Headlight Decal Installed.jpg
  • 11 Husy Headlight Decal Installed.jpg
  • 12 Headlights Installed.jpg
  • 13 Headlights Installed.jpg
  • 14 Headlights Wired.jpg
  • 15 Headlights Wired.jpg

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#489 fonz3482 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 05, 2017 - 07:03 PM

Its all finally coming together! Looking awesome!


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#490 stiemmy OFFLINE  

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Posted July 05, 2017 - 07:37 PM

Dang, that thing looks sharp!!!!!
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#491 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted July 06, 2017 - 04:46 PM

Got the idler pulleys installed and the PTO and drive belts installed today.  Set the PTO about half way down on the slots and adjusted the guard I made for the pulley belts - the PTO belts don't drag when the engine is turned over - will have to see what happens when I start it up again.  I found an old choke cable that used to be on my first 1050 when I got it - the knob is homemade and the O.D. of the cable where it mounts is only 3/8" but I think I can adapt it to work and since it has the knob threaded on I can make a new knob and thread it on if everything else works out.  Picked up a spring at the hardware store that was about the right length for the drive belt tensioner arm but it was a little stiff so I made a  short "C" link out of some 1/8" round stock and put it between the eye and the spring which I think will work. 

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 PTO And Drive Belts On Engine Pulley.jpg
  • 2 Belts On PTO Pulley.jpg
  • 3 PTO Pulley Guard Adjusted.jpg
  • 4 Found An Old Choke Cable Off Of A 1050.jpg
  • 5 Not Original Knob.jpg
  • 6 Not Original Knob.jpg
  • 7 Spring For Drive Belts.jpg
  • 8 Spring Installed.jpg
  • 9 C Link Between Spring And Eyebolt.jpg
  • 10 Idler Pulleys Installed.jpg

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#492 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted July 06, 2017 - 04:54 PM

Since I had the dash off as it makes removing the larger battery easier I decided to install the instruction decal that goes underneath the dash before I put the dash back on.  I also got the PTO decal and the shifter / brake decal installed.  I made up a bushing on the lathe out of some round stock that has a 3/8" hole in it and a short lip to fit in the dash hole which is about .580" - this will centre the choke cable in the dash hole and keep it from being sloppy.  Taped up the wires where they run along the right side by the battery and put a clamp on them - I also taped up the wires that go from the coil to the module.  The chrome paint that I painted the steering wheel button with back in the spring had gone flat so I sanded the button and gave it a couple of coats of silver metallic and after the paint had dried I installed the button back on the wheel and gave it a "Husky" decal - not quite straight but a 10 mile an hour it should look ok.  

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Decal Under Dash Installed.jpg
  • 2 Decal Under Dash Installed.jpg
  • 3 PTO And Shifter Decal Installed.jpg
  • 4 Bushng For Choke Cable Shaft.jpg
  • 5 Bushng For Choke Cable Shaft.jpg
  • 6 Wiring Harness Taped And Clamped.jpg
  • 7 Wires Going To Module Taped.jpg
  • 8 Husky Decal On Steering Wheel Cap.jpg
  • 9 Husky Decal On Steering Wheel Cap.jpg

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#493 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted July 07, 2017 - 06:01 PM

I removed the homemade knob, wrapped the choke cable in black tape to make it look a little nicer and match the colour of the throttle cable, slid the bushing I had painted silver metallic on to the cable and installed the choke cable that I found.  Then I made a new knob for it in the lathe, threaded it so it would thread on to the cable and then gave it a splash of red paint and set it aside to dry.   While the paint was drying I installed the patent decal, model and serial number decal and the two six speed decals.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Choke Cable Installed.jpg
  • 2 Choke Cable Installed.jpg
  • 3 Choke Cable In Dash With Busghing.jpg
  • 4 Made A New Knob.jpg
  • 5 Made A New Knob.jpg
  • 6 Made A New Knob.jpg
  • 7 Patent Decal Installed.jpg
  • 8 Model Number Decal Installed.jpg
  • 9 Right 6 Speed Decal Installed.jpg
  • 10 Left 6 Speed Decal Installed.jpg

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#494 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted July 07, 2017 - 06:05 PM

Then the hood decals got installed and I decided that I might as well paint the red stripe on the hood.  Got the tractor masked off, scuff sanded the hood for the stripe and splashed on some red paint.  Once the paint had dried I unmasked things and took a few pictures.  The choke knob was dry enough that I could handle it and thread it on to the choke cable.

 

Now where did I put that seat?

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Right Hood Decal Installed.jpg
  • 2 Left Hood Decal Installed.jpg
  • 3 Masked For Hood Stripe.jpg
  • 4 Masked For Hood Stripe.jpg
  • 5 Painted.jpg
  • 6 Painted.jpg
  • 7 Painted.jpg
  • 8 Unmasked.jpg
  • 9 Unmasked.jpg
  • 10 Unmasked.jpg
  • 11 Choke Knob Painted And Threaded On.jpg
  • 12 Choke Knob Painted And Threaded On.jpg

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#495 logmillingman ONLINE  

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Posted July 07, 2017 - 06:20 PM

You are nailing it!!   keep up the good work!   almost done!!!


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