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Bolens 1053 Return to Service Project


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#466 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted June 29, 2017 - 05:46 PM

Thanks for the kind words.  Got a battery set in place today - went with an automotive dual terminal battery as it can be used in other vehicles and tractors as well if necessary - snug fit but will give the tractor a little cranking reserve.  Got a bracket made up to go across the top of the battery to hold it in place and also made up two hold down rods out of 1/4" round stock - bent the one end to form a hook and threaded the top 1-1/4" section with a 1/4" UNC die.  Once the bracket and rods were finished they got a splash of paint.  Found the old battery cables I used on the 1050 and installed them.  Once they were installed I hooked up the positive to the battery and then gently touched the negative cable to the negative terminal of the battery and the fuse did not blow, no magic smoke and no sparks so I connected it to the battery.  Then I found the old key and turned the key switch on to the run position - again no magic smoke and the fuse didn't blow so I tried the start position and the starter generator spun.  I just have the belt on loose as I have ordered a new one so I put a little pressure on the generator with my hand and tried the starter again and the engine cranked over which made me happy.  I cranked the engine over a few times and it sounded like the TRA10D I remember - if it had of had fuel and spark it might have started.  Found out that I hooked the ammeter up backwards as it showed it was charging while cranking so I reversed the wires.  Installed a clamp on the left side for the wires going to the starter generator and also ran a wire to the hood for the headlights and terminated it with an insulated terminal.  Got a jumper wire ran from the negative battery cable to the voltage regulator.  I went with a newer ATO style fuse holder and a 20 amp fuse.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Battery Installed.jpg
  • 2 Fabricating Battery Hold Down.jpg
  • 3 Fabricating Battery Hold Down.jpg
  • 4 Fabricating Battery Hold Down.jpg
  • 5 Holes Drilled For Rods.jpg
  • 6 Holes Drilled For Rods.jpg
  • 7 Hold Down Rods.jpg
  • 8 Battery Cables Installed.jpg
  • 9 Battery Cables Installed.jpg
  • 10 Hold Down Rods Painted.jpg
  • 11 Hold Down Bracket Painted.jpg
  • 12 Clamp For Wring To Starter Generator Installed.jpg
  • 13 Clamp For Wring To Starter Generator Installed.jpg
  • 14 Headlamp Wire Ran WIth Insulated Disconnect Terminal.jpg
  • 15 Headlamp Wire Under Engine.jpg
  • 16 20 Amp Fuse Holder With Fuse.jpg

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#467 fonz3482 OFFLINE  

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Posted June 29, 2017 - 06:15 PM

Piece after piece you keep making and everything comes out flawlessly! Excellent work!
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#468 Austen OFFLINE  

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Posted June 29, 2017 - 06:20 PM

Wow, looking really nice Stew.


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#469 stiemmy OFFLINE  

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Posted June 29, 2017 - 07:11 PM

I can't believe how nice everything looks, gonna be wayyy better than new!!!!
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#470 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted June 30, 2017 - 04:28 PM

Thanks for the kind words.

 

Since I hate chasing battery hold down rods I cut two very short pieces of 1/4" fuel line and slid them onto the rods once each rod was slid up from the bottom into place - they work to hold the rods up while I start the nuts on the battery hold down. Once the rods were in place I set the hold down bracket in place and snugged the nuts up - will see if I can pick up a couple of wing nuts sometime.  Then I found a piece of aluminum in the metal pile (as per Steimmy's suggestion) and cut it to the size I wanted ( about 5-1/4" x 4-1/2" ) and cleaned off the paint that was on it with a wire brush.  I decided to mount the module at the front of the engine in order to keep the wires from the crank sensor as short as possible - bent the piece of aluminum up away from the mounting bolts so it should not get too hot from any heat off of the engine.  The GM 4 pin module has two plastic locating pins on the bottom side so I drilled holes for them and then used the centre punch to mark where the mounting bolts should go and drilled holes for them.  Once I had things ready I applied a light coating of silicone grease to the bottom side of the module and mounted it to the piece of aluminum with two machine screws - I ran a ground wire from the one screw that grounds the module to the ground stud on the voltage regulator.   

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Two Short Pieces Of Quarter Inch Fuel Line.jpg
  • 2 Rubber Pushed Onto Hold Down Rod.jpg
  • 3 Rubber Pushed Onto Hold Down Rod.jpg
  • 4 Battery Hold Down Installed.jpg
  • 5 Piece Of Aluminum To Mount Module On.jpg
  • 6 Piece Of Aluminum To Mount Module On.jpg
  • 7 GM HEI Module.jpg
  • 8 Holes Drilled For Locating Pins And Mounting Bolts.jpg
  • 9 Dielectric Grease On Back Of Module.jpg
  • 10 Module Mounted On Piece Of Aluminum.jpg

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#471 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted June 30, 2017 - 04:48 PM

I used a pigtail (Napa # TSC200 - looked for the old connector I used but I could not find it) to connect the crank sensor to the pick up terminals on the module - crimped a pair of 1/4" female spade terminals on to the end of the connector and after I twisted the leads together I plugged them into the W and G terminals on the module.  I ran a wire from the ignition terminal to the B terminal of the module.  Then I hooked up a test light and confirmed that I had a good ground connection and that 12 volts was being applied to the B terminal when the key was in the run and crank positions.  Then I hooked up the clip of the test light to a 12 volt source and held the test light probe on the C terminal and cranked the engine over hoping that the test light would flash but it did not.  Verified I had things hooked up right which I did.  Reversed the connections from the crank sensor to the terminals on the module and cranked the engine again to see if the test would flash and it did.  Before when I used the crank sensor I used a Chrysler control box and I don't think it mattered which input terminal was connected to the terminals from the crank sensor but the GM module is fussy apparently - I have marked the terminals on the crank sensor as to which terminal to connect them to on the module in the pictures.  Once I had the input wires figured out I put a 3/16" female spade on the wire going to the G terminal (which is physically smaller) and soldered both terminals onto the pigtail to ensure a good solid connection.  With the smaller terminal on the one wire I shouldn't mix them up if I have to unplug things at some point in the future.   

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Ground Wire From Module To Regulator Stud.jpg
  • 2 Crank Sensor Wires Hooked Up.jpg
  • 3 Crank Sensor Under Module.jpg
  • 4 Ignition Power Red Wire Connected.jpg
  • 5 Connector Number For Sensor.jpg
  • 6 A And B On Connector.jpg
  • 7 Crank Sensor Connections.jpg
  • 8 Module Terminals.jpg
  • 9 Terminals On Connector Soldered.jpg
  • 10 Module Wired.jpg
  • 11 Module Wired.jpg
  • 12 Crank Sensor Connected.jpg

Edited by 29 Chev, June 30, 2017 - 05:36 PM.

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#472 TomLGT195 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 01, 2017 - 06:20 AM

I like the rubber hose on the battery hold downs, good idea.  Thank you for going into such detail , that will be a big help for reference in the future.


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#473 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted July 01, 2017 - 04:32 PM

Got a couple of wing nuts and installed them on the battery hold down rods - I also picked up a new belt, an ignition coil that does not require a resistor and found a coil bracket I had purchased a few years ago for another project.  Got the new belt installed, snugged up the tension on the starter generator and tightened the mounting bolts.  I decided to mount the ignition coil in the same spot that it would have been mounted on the 1050 beside the dipstick tube.  I tried the coil in the original coil bracket but it seemed a little loose so I modified the coil bracket I found by cutting off the one mounting ear and the tab that was made for a capacitor to mount on - dressed the cut edges with a file.  Mounted the coil in the bracket and decided where I needed to drill a hole in the rear engine shield for a bolt, removed the panel, drilled two 5/16" holes (one under the other as I may use the other hole for a clip for the choke cable) and put the panel back in place.  Once I had the coil bracket at the right height on the coil I snugged up the bracket on the coil - wanted it tight enough so the coil would not move and the bracket would transfer heat to the shield but I didn't want to over tighten the screw and deform the coil case.  Then I wired the coil up and installed the spark plug wire - I unthreaded the spark plug and laid the base on a head bolt and cranked the engine over to check for spark.  We had spark so I installed the spark plug after gapping it to .030" as per the repair manual.  Attached are videos of the spark plug firing laying on the head bolt and of the engine turning over with the spark plug installed.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Wing Nuts For Battery Hold Down.jpg
  • 2 New Coil No Resistor Needed.jpg
  • 3 Part Number For Coil.jpg
  • 4 Coil Bracket.jpg
  • 5 New Belt Installed.jpg
  • 6 Deciding On Where To Mount Coil.jpg
  • 7 Coil Bracket Modified.jpg
  • 8 Coil Bracket Modified.jpg
  • 9 Holes Drilled In Shield To Mount Coil Bracket.jpg
  • 10 Coil Mounted And Wired.jpg
  • 11 Coil Mounted And Wired.jpg
  • 12 Ready To CHeck For Spark.jpg

Attached Files


Edited by 29 Chev, July 01, 2017 - 04:33 PM.

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#474 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted July 01, 2017 - 04:47 PM

Found I had a new locking cable so it got volunteered for the throttle cable - it was too long so I cut off the preformed hook bend in the end and after marking the cable where I wanted to cut the outer casing with a piece of electrical tape I undid the locking nut at the knob and removed the inner core from the housing.  Then I used a hack saw to cut the outer casing and cleaned up the cut with the grinder to smooth the end off.  Then I slid the inner core back in and installed the cable in the dash.  I cut a small band of sheet metal and formed it into a U and then squeezed it together with a pair of vise grips to form a mounting clip.  Spread the clip apart and removed it from the cable, squeezed it back together and held it with a pair of vise grips and drilled a 3/16" hole in it for the screw.  Then I trimmed the excess sheet metal, dressed the end with a file, spread the clip apart a bit and gave it a splash of paint.  Found a piece of Cable that I had cut off of another throttle cable and a 1-1/2" saucer style frost plug that I may use to make a  choke cable to match the curved face of the knob of the throttle cable - will see what happens.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 New Locking Throttle Cable.jpg
  • 2 Tag On Throttle Cable.jpg
  • 3 Outer Casing Cut With Hack Saw.jpg
  • 4 Cut Cleaned Up With Grinder.jpg
  • 5 Ready To Put Inner Core Back Inside.jpg
  • 6 Inner Core Slid Back In.jpg
  • 7 Cable Installed In Dash.jpg
  • 8 Cable Installed In Dash.jpg
  • 9 Sheet Metal Cut To Make Cable Clamp.jpg
  • 10 Sheet Metal Bent Around Cable.jpg
  • 11 Sheet Metal Removed From Cable And Hole Drilled.jpg
  • 12 Excess Metal Cut Off Flush With Tin Snips.jpg
  • 13 Excess Metal Cut Off Flush With Tin Snips.jpg
  • 14 Clamp Spread Apart To Slide Over Cable.jpg
  • 15 Clamp Painted.jpg
  • 16 Left Over Piece Of Cable.jpg
  • 17 Inch And A Half Saucer Style Frost Plug.jpg
  • 18 Comparing Frost Plug To Cable Knob.jpg

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#475 logmillingman OFFLINE  

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Posted July 01, 2017 - 04:52 PM

you are almost there!     everything is looking real good!!


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#476 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted July 01, 2017 - 05:01 PM

Thanks for the kind words - thought about trying to start it today (temptation was there) but I decided that I should have a working throttle and choke cable first. :thumbs:


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#477 stiemmy OFFLINE  

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Posted July 01, 2017 - 09:27 PM

Chompin at the bit here!!!!

Looking great bud;)
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#478 TomLGT195 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 02, 2017 - 07:16 AM

:biting_nails:  :tapping_fingers:

 

 

 

:smilewink:  :smilewink:  :smilewink:  :smilewink:


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#479 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted July 02, 2017 - 07:41 PM

Made a choke cable today but it is not made properly and I will probably redo it.  Drilled a 3/16" hole in the middle of the frost plug and machined a piece of round stock to weld to it.  Drilled a 1/16" hole for the wire to go into the round stock but in hind sight I should have made a 1/4" stem about 3" long to fit inside the bolt that the housing is soldered to as it would give the end of the cable more strength - the wire tends to be quite springy and bends a bit when the knob is pulled out to put the choke on.  Soldered the wire into the knob - not sure how long it will hold.  Machined a 1/2" x 1-1/2" UNC cab screw by turning the head down and putting a bevel on the end to match the throttle cable. Turned the bolt around and turned down a portion of the threads and drilled a hole to accept the wire and then enlarged it on the threaded end so that the casing could be soldered to it.  Once it was together I gave the knob a quick squirt of red paint. 

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Hole Drilled In Frost Plug.jpg
  • 2 Hole For Wire Drilled in Round Stock Piece.jpg
  • 3 Other End Machined So It Can Be Welded To Frost Plug.jpg
  • 4 Test Fit Of Frost Plug.jpg
  • 5 Pieces Clamped For Welding.jpg
  • 6 Pieces Welded.jpg
  • 7 Welds Cleaned Up.jpg
  • 8 Welds Cleaned Up.jpg
  • 9 Wire Soldered To Knob.jpg
  • 10 Starting To Machine Head Of Half Inch Bolt.jpg
  • 11 Head Of Bolt Machined.jpg
  • 12 Hole Drilled For Wire.jpg
  • 13 Other End Of Bolt Machined For Housing.jpg
  • 14 Housing Soldered To Bolt And Wire Inserted.jpg
  • 15 Knob Painted Red.jpg

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#480 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted July 02, 2017 - 07:45 PM

Then I got the throttle cable shortened, put a hook in the wire and hooked it up to the throttle linkage and clamped it in position.  After the paint dried I mounter the outer housing after I figured where to cut it, slid the wire inside and put a hook on the end and connected it to the choke lever.  Once it was in place I tightened up another cable clamp I had made to hold it in position.  Now I had a working throttle and choke.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Throttle Cable Connected.jpg
  • 2 Throttle Cable Hooked Up.jpg
  • 3 Throttle Cable Clamped.jpg
  • 4 Choke Cable Installed.jpg
  • 5 Choke Cable Installed.jpg
  • 6 Choke Cable Installed.jpg
  • 7 Choke Cable Installed.jpg
  • 8 Choke Cable Clamped.jpg
  • 9 Choke Cable Installed.jpg
  • 10 Choke Cable Installed.jpg

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