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Bolens 1053 Return to Service Project


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#451 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted June 23, 2017 - 07:10 PM

Then I pressed the pulley and hub back together after I cleaned all the grinding debris off of them and verified that they slid on to the crank ok and that I could slide in the 1/4" key by hand.  Things looked good so I did four new tack welds and after things cooled I verified that the pulley still fit ok and the key still slid in by hand.  Then I threaded the headless bolts into the two threaded holes and pushed the third bolt into the same depth as the other two and welded the threaded ends of the bolts to the hub.  I flipped the pulley over and started to weld the ends of the bolts to the front pulley face.  Once things cooled I verified the pulley still fit the crank which it do so I did a bit more welding on the bolts and started to fill in the grooves in short lengths of weld.  I then stopped for the night and will keep welding the bolts and the groove in a little bit at a time so things don't get too hot.  The bolts should act as rivets and effectively pin the pulley and hub together so that it should not come apart.  

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Hub Pressed Back In To Pulley And Tacked.jpg
  • 2 Bolts Threaded In To Hub.jpg
  • 3 Bolt In Hole With Notch.jpg
  • 4 Bolts Threaded In To Hub.jpg
  • 5 Ends Of Bolts Protrude Through Pulley.jpg
  • 6 Starting To Weld Ends Of Bolts To Pulley.jpg
  • 7 Threaded Ends Of Bolts Welded To Hub.jpg
  • 8 Threaded Ends Of Bolts Welded To Hub.jpg
  • 9 More Welding In Groove After Things Cooled.jpg
  • 10 More Welding In Groove After Things Cooled.jpg

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#452 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted June 24, 2017 - 06:58 PM

Started working on the rear part of the pulley today - cut off part of the hub so I could then turn the pulley around and mount it in the lathe chuck.  Turned away the rear face of the pulley and then pressed the third old gear on and tacked it in three spots.  I indexed it for three bolt holes on the join line and then I made sure I could drill the gear before I did any more welding on it.  The drill bit tended to wander a little bit inward towards the softer cast rather than staying on the centre line but I got three 1/4" holes started that should work to put three 1/4" bolts with flat washers through the gear and pulley on the join line - I am hoping the bolts will thread into the rear of the weld hub to pin the rear part of the pulley to the front pulley and hub.  Once I had the holes started I ground out the join with the die grinder to form a groove and then welded it in a bit at a time which should give the join a bit more strength.  Once things cooled I sanded the weld down smooth. 

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Rear Part Of Pulley WIth Part of Centre Hub Cut Off.jpg
  • 2 Piece That Was Cut Off.jpg
  • 3 Piece That Was Cut Off.jpg
  • 4 Pulley Turned Around In Lathe And Machining Away Broken Outer Face.jpg
  • 5 Machining Away Outer Face.jpg
  • 6 Old Gear Tacked On To Rear Part Of Pulley.jpg
  • 7 Indexed For Three Holes On Join Line.jpg
  • 8 Old Gear On Where End OF Pulley Was Machined Away.jpg
  • 9 Quarter Inch Holes Started In Old Gear And Hub.jpg
  • 10 Join Grooved Out WIth Die Grinder.jpg
  • 11 Join Welded In.jpg
  • 12 Weld Sanded Down.jpg

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#453 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted June 24, 2017 - 07:03 PM

While I was working on the rear part of the pulley I welded the front pulley to the hub a little bit at a time and let it cool and eventually had the two welded together.  One thing I have learned is that when you weld cast with the mig welder the weld will be very hard and does not machine very well in the lathe so I worked away with the sander and die grinder and got the welds smoothed up so that the pulley and weld hub are now one unit and is ready to be joined to the rear section of the pulley once I finish getting the belt goove machined. 

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 New Front Welded At Join.jpg
  • 2 Grinding Weld Where Hub Joins Rear Of Pulley.jpg
  • 3 Grinding Weld Where Hub Joins Rear Of Pulley.jpg
  • 4 Front Face OF Pulley Sanded.jpg
  • 5 Weld Where Hub Joins Front Pulley Sanded.jpg
  • 6 Weld Where Hub Joins Front Pulley Sanded.jpg
  • 7 Weld Where Hub Joins Front Pulley Sanded.jpg
  • 8 Weld Where Hub Joins Front Pulley Sanded.jpg
  • 9 Weld Where Hub Joins Front Pulley Sanded.jpg

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#454 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted June 25, 2017 - 05:43 PM

Got the old gear turned down to the correct O.D. and cut the inside face to reform the belt groove - used a cardboard template I had made to verify the profile and depth.  I also took a truing cut on the end face of the old gear near the outside so that when I turned the pulley end for end it would run true.  Turned the old hub down to form a collar that would press inside the rear of the weld hub and after aligning them wit the key way I pressed the two pieces together.  Then I mounted the assembly in the lathe and checked it for run out - when the front half had about .001" run out the rear portion had about .015" which kind of depressed me a bit but before I did any more machining I decided to mount the assembly on the engine crank and check it  for run out and see if it was better or worse. There is also a short video of how the rear part of the pulley looks after I machined the inner face to form the belt groove again. 

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Old Gear Turned DOwn To Correct OD.jpg
  • 2 Truing Cut On Outer Part Of Pulley Face.jpg
  • 3 Starting To Cut 18 Degree Belt Face.jpg
  • 4 Checking Cardboard Template In Original Pulley Groove.jpg
  • 5 Template In New Belt Groove.jpg
  • 6 Pulley Turned Around And Starting To Machine Old Hub.jpg
  • 7 Old Hub Turned Down To Form Collar.jpg
  • 8 Taper Cut On Weld Hub Where Rear Pulley Will Fit Against.jpg
  • 9 Rear And Front Parts Of Pulley Pressed Together.jpg

Attached Files


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#455 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted June 25, 2017 - 06:03 PM

I removed the assembly from the lathe and slid it onto the crankshaft and slid the key in about 1/2 way and gently snugged the set screws onto the key and crank so as not to make marks that might make removal of the assembly difficult.  I put the battery tray back in place and set the dial gauge base on it and then checked the run out on the front pulley groove - it showed to have about .0025" total run out - took pictures of the gauge reading at 90 degree intervals and also took a video as I rotated the crank.  Things looked promising so I checked the rear part of the pulley - it has about .0055" total run out - took pictures of the reading at 90 degree intervals and also a video as I rotated the crank.  I think that the run out should be acceptable on a belt drive system that uses spring loaded tensioners and given what the pulley looked like when I started I was happy.  I loosened the set screws and removed the battery tray, slid the pulley off and did three tack welds where the hub and the pulley joined making sure I stayed away from where the three holes will be drilled and tapped to hold things together - did not want to create any hardness in the weld hub in that area.  Once the tack welds were done and cooled I slid the pulley back on the crank, slid in the key and put the battery tray back in so I could verify that things had not shifted and the run out was the same - things looked good.  The scraping noise you hear in the videos is the end of the dial gauge rubbing against the pulley

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Pulley On Engine And Checking Run Out Keyway Stratight Up.jpg
  • 2 Crank Rotated 90 Degrees.jpg
  • 3 Crank Rotated 180 Degrees.jpg
  • 4 Crank Rotated 270 Degrees.jpg
  • 5 Checking Runout On Rear Part Of Pulley Keyway Straight Up.jpg
  • 6 Crank Rotated 90 Degrees.jpg
  • 7 Crank Rotated 180 Degrees.jpg
  • 8 Crank Rotated 270 Degrees.jpg
  • 9 Verifying Runout After Tack Welds Done.jpg
  • 10 Verifying Runout After Tack Welds Done.jpg
  • 11 Verifying Runout After Tack Welds Done.jpg

Attached Files


Edited by 29 Chev, June 25, 2017 - 06:49 PM.

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#456 Mark 149 J. OFFLINE  

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Posted June 25, 2017 - 06:28 PM

Nice work!

Never say never!


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#457 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted June 26, 2017 - 05:22 PM

Got the three blind holes drilled from the end of the pulley down into the hub - 13/64" to a depth of 1.875" and then enlarged to 1/4" to the depth of where the pulley meets the hub. The portion of the hole got threaded with a 1/4" UNC tap and then I threaded three 1/4" X 2" UNC grade 5 bolts into the holes to see how far they would stick out when tight. Subtracted the amount sticking out from 2" and determined that the bolts were sufficiently threaded into the hub to have a good hold -they were turned in 4-1/2 turns before they bottomed in the threads and I checked a 1/4" nut and 3 turns allowed the nut to be fully threaded onto the bolt.  I removed the three bolts and enlarged the holes at the face of the pulley with the die grinder and a carbide burr and then threaded the bolts back in again until they bottomed in the threads. Then I cut the bolts off flush with the face of the pulley and welded the bolts to the end of the pulley filling in the area that I had enlarged a bit at a time so I did not get things too hot - this should pin the end of the pulley to the hub.  I also welded the pulley to the hub a bit at a time until it was welded all the way around.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Holes Drilled And Tapped.jpg
  • 2 Depth Of Holes.jpg
  • 3 How Far Holes Go Into Hub.jpg
  • 4 Quarter X 2 Bolts Threaded Into Holes.jpg
  • 5 How Far Bolts Are Threaded In.jpg
  • 6 Holes Tapered Out At End.jpg
  • 7 Bolts Bottomed In Holes.jpg
  • 8 Bolts Cut Off.jpg
  • 9 Holes Filled In With Weld Around Bolts.jpg
  • 10 Starting To Weld Hub To Pulley.jpg
  • 11 Hub Welded To Pulley.jpg
  • 12 Hub Welded To Pulley.jpg

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#458 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted June 26, 2017 - 05:25 PM

Once things cooled down I sanded the welds on the face of the pulley and ground the weld where the pulley and hub were joined.  Then I put the pulley in the lathe and used some 80 grit sandpaper to sand the pulley surfaces up a bit and gave the pulley a splash of paint.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Welds On End Of Pulley Sanded.jpg
  • 2 Hub Weld Smoothed Up.jpg
  • 3 Hub Weld Smoothed Up.jpg
  • 4 Hub Weld Smoothed Up.jpg
  • 5 Pulley Sanded.jpg
  • 6 Pulley Sanded.jpg
  • 7 Pulley Sanded.jpg
  • 8 Pulley Painted.jpg
  • 9 Pulley Painted.jpg
  • 10 Pulley Painted.jpg

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#459 Mark 149 J. OFFLINE  

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Posted June 26, 2017 - 07:15 PM

A lot of hard work and determination made your pulley turn out great!

It's been a lot of fun watching you work on this pulley! 

Makes me want to go buy a lathe!


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#460 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted June 27, 2017 - 08:04 AM

A lot of hard work and determination made your pulley turn out great!

It's been a lot of fun watching you work on this pulley! 

Makes me want to go buy a lathe!

Thanks for the kind words.  If you have the room and the resources a lathe can be a great addition to the workshop - the one I use is a 6" swing Sears model that my dad purchased new back in the early 60's.  I would suggest a 12" swing at least but it is surprising what you can accomplish with the 6" - I once made a bull gear for the rear end of an old Yardman rider with the lathe. 


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#461 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted June 27, 2017 - 05:44 PM

Got the pulley installed on the crankshaft - left a space the thickness of two pieces of light cardboard to have some clearance between the engine and the front pulley face.  I have decided to leave the belts off until I get the engine running - that way if I hear any strange noises I will know they are engine related and not from the drivetrain or PTO.  Installed the belt guard and heat shields and then I mounted the starter solenoid and voltage regulator that came off the 1050.  I painted and mounted the starter generator off of the 1050 as well and then I got a few wires run to start the fun of wiring things up.  I have the wiring harness off of the 1050 but I decided to run new wires using 14 gauge wiring for the majority of the wiring.  I am still deciding on what to use for an ignition coil and where I will mount it and the 4 terminal GM HEI ignition module.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Pulley On Crankshaft.jpg
  • 2 Width Of Two Pieces Of Light Cardboard Between Pulley And Engine.jpg
  • 3 Shields Installed.jpg
  • 4 Shields Installed.jpg
  • 5 Shields Installed.jpg
  • 6 Solenoid And Regualtor From 1050 Installed.jpg
  • 7 Starter Generator From 1050.jpg
  • 8 Pulley Clears Hood.jpg
  • 9 Fuel Filter Installed And Fuel Line Hooked Up.jpg
  • 10 Starting To Wire Things Up.jpg
  • 11 Armature And Field Teminals Wired.jpg
  • 12 Starting To Wire Things Up.jpg

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#462 stiemmy OFFLINE  

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Posted June 27, 2017 - 07:08 PM

Stew, be sure to mount that module to Aluminum. It uses the it for a heatsink, just like it uses the distributor as a heatsink in its original config.:)

Lookin great bud!

Edited by stiemmy, June 27, 2017 - 07:09 PM.

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#463 TomLGT195 OFFLINE  

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Posted June 28, 2017 - 03:34 AM

Looking Good. 


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#464 logmillingman OFFLINE  

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Posted June 28, 2017 - 05:25 PM

Coming together nice!!!


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#465 ClassicBolens OFFLINE  

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Posted June 28, 2017 - 05:46 PM

I think I can speak for many of us here by saying this.... WOW!
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