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Bolens 1053 Return to Service Project


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#436 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted June 19, 2017 - 07:37 PM

Thanks for the kind words.

 

I removed the broken off bolt that someone had threaded into the broken engine pulley in an attempt to remove it and wire brushed up the two pieces and had a good look at them to see if there were any hairline cracks. I did not see any so I have decided to try and repair it - not sure how this will turn out - time will tell.  I thought about trying to weld it but since it is cast and would be turning at 3000 plus rpm I decided that it not the best way so I have come up with a different plan.  I picked up a new 1" "X" size weld on hub that is designed to be welded on to pulleys and gears since it has the 1/4" keyway and the set screws holes already machined in it.  I grabbed three old worn out roller chain gears (two 28 tooth and one 30 tooth) out of my scrap steel pile as the teeth on them are damaged and cleaned up one of the 28 tooth gears and sanded the remains of the teeth off of it.  Then I did six spots of weld on the small diameter end of the weld hub and sanded the spots flush with the end of the hub.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Broken Engine Pulley.jpg
  • 2 Broken Engine Pulley.jpg
  • 3 Broken Engine Pulley.jpg
  • 4 Two Halves Together.jpg
  • 5 Two Halves.jpg
  • 6 One Inch X Weld Hub.jpg
  • 7 One Inch X Weld Hub.jpg
  • 8 Three Worn Out Number 40 Gears.jpg
  • 9 28 Tooth Gear Cleaned Up And Teeth Sanded Down.jpg
  • 10 Spots Of Weld On Small DIameter Of Weld Hub.jpg
  • 11 Spots Of Weld Sanded Flush With End Of Hub.jpg
  • 12 Spots Of Weld Sanded Flush With End Of Hub.jpg

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#437 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted June 19, 2017 - 07:45 PM

Then I set the old gear on top of the spot welds and centred it in relation to the hub.  I tacked the gear in place in a few spots and then I welded it to the end of the hub - did about four passes to make sure I filled in the void and built up the end of the hub so it was flush with the face of the gear.  I also did a couple of passes around the other side to make sure the gear was secured to the hub.  Once things cooled down I used a carbide burr in the die grinder and cleaned up the inside of the weld so that the hub would still fit over a 1" shaft as I had gotten a little too close to the inside of the hub in a few spots while welding.  Then I sanded the weld down flush to the face and let the hub cool down again.  Once it had cooled I mounted it in the lathe and turned the OD of the gear down to 3" and trued up the end of the gear. 

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Old Gear Centred On Top Of Hub.jpg
  • 2 Old Gear Welded To End Of Hub.jpg
  • 3 Old Gear Welded To End Of Hub.jpg
  • 4 Old Gear Welded To End Of Hub.jpg
  • 5 Weld Cleaned Up With Carbide Burr So Hub Will Fit On One Inch Shaft.jpg
  • 6 Old Gear Turned Down To Three Inch OD.jpg
  • 7 Old Gear Turned Down To Three Inch OD.jpg
  • 8 End Of Old Gear Trued Up.jpg

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#438 Dave in NY OFFLINE  

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Posted June 20, 2017 - 06:12 AM

You do amazing work Stew! I am using a welded pulley on my 1054. So far so good. It had a piece about 3/4" long broken off the edge. I suspect from a hammer,pry-bar or puller. I had one of the welding gurus at work build it up,fill it in and I brought it back to shape with a 4" grinder and a file. Myself I would would have thrown yours in the scrap bucket and bought another from someone. But I don't have a metal lathe close at hand either. You have obviously thought this out and have a plan. Repurposing a worn out sproket,neat! I like the exhaust pipe you crafted too. Very impressive! I would probably have just brazed some short pipe nipples to the ends of a piece of bent steel tubing.
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#439 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted June 20, 2017 - 07:52 AM

You do amazing work Stew! I am using a welded pulley on my 1054. So far so good. It had a piece about 3/4" long broken off the edge. I suspect from a hammer,pry-bar or puller. I had one of the welding gurus at work build it up,fill it in and I brought it back to shape with a 4" grinder and a file. Myself I would would have thrown yours in the scrap bucket and bought another from someone. But I don't have a metal lathe close at hand either. You have obviously thought this out and have a plan. Repurposing a worn out sproket,neat! I like the exhaust pipe you crafted too. Very impressive! I would probably have just brazed some short pipe nipples to the ends of a piece of bent steel tubing.

I have a plan and I think it will work - time will tell.  If the pulley just had a small piece broken out of one of the edges I might have tried welding it but this one would probably generate a lot of heat if I tried welding all the broken areas and getting it to stay together where it is broken in two is something I would not trust.  The results of the pulley being broken show that there is a correct and incorrect way to remove them and this pulley shows what will happen if someone tries to pry or use a hammer instead of a properly placed puller in an effort to remove one.  The pulleys on a TRA12D are even more apt to break in the area where the belt groove for the hydraulic pump is located as the wall of the pulley is even thinner in that location since the TRA12D have 1-1/8" crankshafts whereas the TRA10D uses a 1" diameter crank.


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#440 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted June 20, 2017 - 05:13 PM

Did some more to the hub today. Machined the end that the old gear is welded onto and began to form the small pulley where the original pulley is broken.  Took a bit of time but I finally got the material removed and got the V formed.  I ended up turning the main body of the hub down to the same O.D. as the original from the front to just past where the set screw holes are so that I could get in to machine the V better.    I cut a few different degree profiles in pieces of cardboard to see which seemed to correspond to the original angle and 18 degrees seemed to be the closest so that is what I went with.  I tried a new 1/2" belt in the V and it seemed to fit fairly good so I left well enough alone and polished up the hub.  I did a rough drawing of the old pulley and how it would have looked and measured in one piece and double checked to see if I was still on track - things looked good except that the O.D. of the old gear was going to be a little large at 3" so I turned the O.D. down to 2.750" which should work and still leave enough material to keep the old front section of the pulley solid.  I turned the hub around in the lathe and bored it to 1.300" I.D. and a depth of .250" .

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Hub Machined To Start Forming Small Pulley.jpg
  • 2 Hub Machined To Start Forming Small Pulley.jpg
  • 3 Forming Pulley V.jpg
  • 4 Forming Pulley V.jpg
  • 5 Forming Pulley V.jpg
  • 6 Forming Pulley V.jpg
  • 7 Checking 18 Degree Profile.jpg
  • 8 Trying New Half Inch Belt In Pulley.jpg
  • 9 Approximate Sizes Of Original Pulley.jpg
  • 10 Hub Polished Up.jpg
  • 11 Hub Polished Up.jpg
  • 12 Hub Polished Up.jpg
  • 13 Step Bored In Other End Of Hub.jpg
  • 14 Step Bored In Other End Of Hub.jpg

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#441 logmillingman OFFLINE  

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Posted June 21, 2017 - 07:46 AM

Its amazing what you can do with pieces of scrap metal, I always keep things that look like I can fabricate something out of.

 

I am enjoying watching you create things out of pieces of metal, your work is inspiring!


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#442 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted June 21, 2017 - 06:01 PM

Got a bit more done today - machined the welded gear end of the hub to an inside diameter of 1.200" and then moved on to the front half off the pulley.  Got the pulley mounted in the lathe and machined the remains of the small pulley V away so that the rear side of the pulley was flush and then turned the pulley end for end in the lathe. I took the old 30 tooth gear and sanded the teeth away and cleaned it up and verified that it measured 2.000" on the inside.  I started turning the front of the pulley down in the lathe - it was not running 100% true being mounted on the 3 jaw chuck so  I switched and used the larger 4 jaw chuck to hold the pulley on the outside and trued it up with the dial gauge.  I wanted the pulley running as true in the lathe as I could get it in relation to the pulley grooves since I was going to remove the broken part of the front pulley groove and use the old gear as a new face.  I turned the front end of the pulley down to 2.003" and in the width of the old gear.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Machined The Welded Gear End Out To 1.20 Inches.jpg
  • 2 Front Half Of Pulley Mounted In Lathe.jpg
  • 3 Front Half Of Pulley Mounted In Lathe.jpg
  • 4 Remains Of Small Pulley Removed.jpg
  • 5 Remains Of Small Pulley Removed.jpg
  • 6 30 Tooth Gear Detoothed And CLeaned Up.jpg
  • 7 Pulley Turned Around In Lathe.jpg
  • 8 Front Of Pulley Turned Down.jpg
  • 9 Front Of Pulley Turned Down To Bottom Of Groove.jpg
  • 10 Front end Of Pulley Turned Down To 2.003 Inches.jpg
  • 11 Front end Of Pulley Turned Down To 2.003 Inches.jpg
  • 12 Front end Of Pulley Turned Down To 2.003 Inches.jpg

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#443 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted June 21, 2017 - 06:07 PM

 Then I tapped the old gear on with a piece of wood and checked that the front side of the gear was running true with the pulley.  Things looked good so I removed the pulley and tack welded the old gear on to the cast pulley in four spots - this did not generate much heat.  Then I remounted the pulley back in the lathe and turned the outside of the old gear down to the same diameter as the pulley.  Once that was done I removed the guard for the cross slide so that I could fit the carriage of the lathe under the pulley - one of the disadvantages of a small lathe is things can get tight for clearance.  Then I got things set up to face the inside surface of the old gear on an 18 degree angle to create a new V groove for the forward belt to run in.  Once that was done I turned the pulley around and began to machine a recess in the rear side of the pulley that the hub with the small pulley will press into (I hope).    

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Old Gear Tapped On To Pulley.jpg
  • 2 Old Gear Tapped On To Pulley.jpg
  • 3 Old Gear Tapped On To Pulley.jpg
  • 4 Old Gear Tack Welded In Place.jpg
  • 5 Old Gear Tack Welded In Place.jpg
  • 6 Outside Of Gear Turned Down To Correct OD.jpg
  • 7 Outside Of Gear Turned Down To Correct OD.jpg
  • 8 Cross Slide Guard Removed To Clear Pulley.jpg
  • 9 Ready To Start Facing Inside Of Gear.jpg
  • 10 Starting To Face 18 Degree Angle.jpg
  • 11 Half Way There.jpg
  • 12 Inside Of Gear Faced For New Belt Surface.jpg
  • 13 Inside Of Gear Faced For New Belt Surface.jpg
  • 14 Inside Of Gear Faced For New Belt Surface.jpg
  • 15 Pulley Turned Around And Starting To Machine Recess For Hub.jpg

Edited by 29 Chev, June 21, 2017 - 06:10 PM.

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#444 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted June 21, 2017 - 06:09 PM

Here are a couple of videos of the pulley running in the lathe - sorry for the shakey camera man.

Attached Files


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#445 logmillingman OFFLINE  

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Posted June 21, 2017 - 08:22 PM

Looking good!!


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#446 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted June 22, 2017 - 06:19 AM

I can't open your videos, but the pics are great.


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#447 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted June 22, 2017 - 08:07 AM

I can't open your videos, but the pics are great.

Sorry - they should work with Windows media player - what video formats can you open?


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#448 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted June 22, 2017 - 08:29 AM

Sorry - they should work with Windows media player - what video formats can you open?

I have that media player, it just doesn't show the video. Maybe it needs updated.


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#449 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted June 22, 2017 - 06:42 PM

Got the recess machined in the pulley.  Then I threaded the set screws back in the hub to make sure they would still thread in after turning the outside of the hub.  Cut a piece of 1/4" square key stock 2-1/2" long off - I believe the parts book calls for a key 2-1/4" long but I wanted the key a little longer than the crankshaft initially so I could grab on to the end if it got jammed while test fitting the pulley.  I tried the pulley and the hub on the engine crankshaft separately to make sure they fit ok by hand with the key installed which they did.  Then I took the key and fit it the groove of the pulley and the hub to make sure the keyways were aligned and started to tab the hub into the pulley with a block of wood - I had made the recess about .003" smaller than the hub so it would be a snug fit.  One I had the hub started I made sure I could slide the key back and forth by hand in the two grooves which told me they were aligned nicely.  I pressed the hub into the pulley using my little 2 ton press to make sure the hub was seated and then tried the pulley and hub on the crankshaft - I could slide it on but it was snug and I tried inserting the key in the crank and it would start in the hub but once it came up against the pulley part it would not push in any further - this told me that the hub and pulley were on a slight angle which did not surprise me. I put the pulley and hub back in the press and pressed on the keyway side of the hub and then tried it again - success - the pulley slid onto the crank freely and I could insert the key by hand all the way through the hub and pulley with the pulley up against the block.  I then did four tack welds on the hub and pulley and checked it again to make sure it still fit the crankshaft and the key could still be inserted by hand.  Once that was done I put the assembly in the lathe and after verifying that the two pieces ran true to each other I marked a circle on the end of the pulley 2.5" in diameter and then I indexed it to mark where 3 holes would go.  I then centre punched the three marks and drilled 3 1/8" holes through the assembly.  Then I enlarged the holes to 13/64's and then I enlarged the holes in the pulley to 1/4" two thirds of the way through - the hub end was left smaller as it will be threaded to accept three 1/4" UNC bolts.  The plan is slowly starting to come together ( I hope). 

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Recess Machined.jpg
  • 2 Recess Machined.jpg
  • 3 Hub Ready To Be Fitted.jpg
  • 4 Set Screws Threaded Back In.jpg
  • 5 Quarter Inch Square Key Stock Two And A Half Inches Long.jpg
  • 6 Hub Pressed Into Recess.jpg
  • 7 Hub Pressed Into Recess In Pulley.jpg
  • 8 Four Tack Welds.jpg
  • 9 End Of Pulley Marked And Indexed For 3 Holes.jpg
  • 10 Marks Centre Punched.jpg
  • 11 3 One EIght Holes Drilled.jpg
  • 12 3 One EIght Holes Drilled.jpg
  • 13 Holes Enlarged To 13 64s.jpg
  • 14 Holes Enlarged to Quarter Inch Two Thirds Deep.jpg

Edited by 29 Chev, June 22, 2017 - 06:44 PM.

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#450 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted June 23, 2017 - 07:01 PM

The plan hit a bump today as I started to tap the holes in the hub and broke the tap which surprised me as the tap was going nicely - tried to break the broken tap out but it was stubborn.  Ended up grinding the four tack welds and separating the pulley back off of the hub - once the pulley was apart I could grab on to the broken tap and turning it out with a pair of vise grips.  Went and got a new tap and got two of the holes tapped - pressed the hub back inside the pulley to keep the outer edge of the hub material from deforming during the tapping process.  Tried to tap the third hole and could not get the tap to start to cut threads.  It turns out using the old gears may not have been the best plan as it seems that parts of the gears had hardened during the welding process (I assume) when they were first welded to the hubs when they were new.  Tried to drill the third hole out to 1/4" and the drill bit wouldn't touch it so I switched the plan a little bit and ground the hole into a notch that a 1/4" bolt would fit through and recessed the material around the hole a bit as you can see in picture # 9.  I also ground a bevel around the edge of the pulley and the hub where they fit together which will create a V that I can fill in with weld.  I took three grade 5 1/4" x 1-1/2" UNC bolts and cut the heads off as you can see in picture # 10.   

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Tap Broken Off In Hole.jpg
  • 2 Tap Broken Off In Hole.jpg
  • 3 Hub Removed From Pulley.jpg
  • 4 Hub Removed From Pulley.jpg
  • 5 Remains Of Broken Tap.jpg
  • 6 2 Of 3 Holes Tapped.jpg
  • 7 Bevel Ground Around Edge Of Pulley Where Hub Goes.jpg
  • 8 Third Hole Ground Out To Allow Quarter Inch Bolt To Go Through.jpg
  • 9 Bevel Gound On Edge Of Hub And Notched Hole Recessed.jpg
  • 10 Three Inch And A Half Quarter Inch Bolts With Heads Cut Off.jpg

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