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Bolens 1053 Return to Service Project


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#406 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted June 08, 2017 - 03:47 PM

Finally got the rest of the parts for the engine I have been waiting for.  The place I dealt with here in Ontario had everything in stock except for the valve springs which they had to order for me.  I was surprised that they did not stock the springs but I guess they don't give much problem.  My thoughts were that for $2.21 each I would be foolish not to replace them since the ones in the engine were probably original (45 plus years old) and have been exposed to a lot of heat over the years of service.  I got a new exhaust seat just in case but I think the old one will work fine - the new seat will not go bad sitting on the shelf if I don't use it now.  Also got new valve guides, new intake valve, new exhaust valve and a new woodruff key for the crankshaft.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Parts.jpg
  • 2 New Valves.jpg
  • 3 New Woodruff Key For Crankshaft.jpg
  • 4 New Valve Springs.jpg
  • 5 New Exhaust Seat.jpg
  • 6 New Valve Guides.jpg

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#407 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted June 09, 2017 - 05:35 PM

Got time to do a few things to the motor.  Checked the outside diameter and length of the guides against the old ones and they matched.  Also tried the new valves in the new guides to make sure they would fit ok which they did. Before I started to install the guides I placed a piece of masking tape over the drain holes in the valve inspection compartment to keep any dirt from getting into the crankcase.  After lubricating the outside of the guide and the inside of the hole with new motor oil I started the new exhaust guide into the hole making sure the end with the inside chamfer was down (you can see the chamfer in the third picture) as per the manual using the driver tool I made to remove the old ones.  The manual calls for the new guides to be pressed in but the engine was too big to fit in my small press and since the guides seemed to be moving nicely I installed them with the driver tool tapping the end of it gently with a hammer.  I got the exhaust guide installed flush with the exhaust port but when I was installing the intake guide I tapped a tad too hard and the guide went a little below the intake port.  While it probably would never have caused any problems I used a piece of 1/4" threaded rod with a nut and washer against the bottom of the guide and a piece of angle iron across the top of the block to draw the guide back up flush. After I had installed the exhaust guide I tried the new exhaust valve in it to make sure it moved ok which it did and after I had the intake guide installed I verified that the new intake valve moved in it ok as well.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Making Tape Over Openings.jpg
  • 2 Top End Of Guide WIth No Inside Chamfer.jpg
  • 3 Bottom End Of Guide With Inside Chamfer.jpg
  • 4 Installing Exhaust Guide.jpg
  • 5 Exhasut Guide Installed.jpg
  • 6 Exhaust Guide Installed.jpg
  • 7 Intake Guide Started In Hole.jpg
  • 8 Went A Tad Too Far.jpg
  • 9 Pulling Guide Back Up With Quarter Inch Threaded Rod.jpg
  • 10 Pulling Guide Back Up With Quarter Inch Threaded Rod.jpg
  • 11 Guide Pulled Up Flush.jpg
  • 12 Guides Installed.jpg

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Posted June 09, 2017 - 06:13 PM

While checking out that the new valves were moving ok in the guides I noticed that they did not have any clearance and were not seated when they were up tight against the tappets.  I rotated the engine so the intake tappet was up so that the exhaust valve would be closed and not on the decompressor lobe of the cam and set the clearance for it at .002" using a feeler gauge to verify the clearance each time I ground a little bit off the end of the valve.  I used an electric 3/8" drill with a course sanding pad to remove the material off the end of the stem and the reason I set the clearance to .002" was to get a feel of how much material I was removing each time as I did not want to remove too much.  I also used a digital Vernier to give me an idea of how much material I was removing.  I held the end of the valve square against the sanding pad and rotated the valve in my hand as the drill was turning so that I would keep the end of the valve square as I removed the material.  Once I had the valve at .002" I put a piece of 120 grit sandpaper flat on a table and then moved the end of the valve on the sandpaper to smooth up the stem face and then I used 320 grit paper to polish it up smoother.  Then I checked the clearance and found that using the sand paper had removed about .001" off the end of the valve - this gave me a good feel of how much material I was removing and how I would finish the end of the valves while still leaving lots of material to set the valves with for the final settings of .006" on the intake and .012" on the exhaust as per the manual.  Before I set the final clearance I used some valve grinding compound on the valves and hand lapped them to get a nice pattern on the faces of the new valves.  The seats cleaned up nice with the hand lapping - there is a small imperfection on the intake seat that you can see in picture #8 but I think it is a casting flaw and it should not cause any problems.  I couldn't see grinding the intake seat just to try and remove the spot since the intake seat is part of the block and was not designed to be replaced.  Once I had nice patterns on the valves and seats I removed the remains of the valve grinding compound and set the valve clearances with the feeler gauges .001" at a time.  Once the feeler gauge would move freely between the valve and lifter with me pushing down on the valve to hold it closed I moved up to the next size until I reached the proper clearance values - to go from .010" to .011" I used a .008" and .003" gauge together.  Once I had the valves within .001" of there final setting I stopped using the drill with the sanding disk and used the sandpaper on the ends of the stems to end up with a nice polished finished.  It took a little longer to do it this way but now they are set correctly and of course I made sure the other valve was open while I was setting each of the valves so that the valve I was working on was not being opened by the camshaft lobe. I removed the flywheel and installed the new woodruff key using a wooden hammer so that I did not make up the crank or key - once the key was installed I put the flywheel back on, installed the washer and hand tightened the nut - still have to torque it.  Then I cleaned up the valves and guide bores and lubricated them with clean motor oil and then installed the valves in the guides.  I rotated the engine by hand to make sure that each valve opened and closed properly and that the exhaust opened a little bit with the decompressor that is built into the camshaft.  You can see how much the exhaust valve opens with the decompressor in picture # 14 as I shone a light into the exhaust port while I was taking the picture.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Two Thou Feeler Gauge.jpg
  • 2 Exhaust Valve Set to .002 Inch.jpg
  • 3 Drill With Sanding Pad To Grind End Of Valve Stem.jpg
  • 4 Valve Grinding Compound.jpg
  • 5 Exhaust Seat After Hand Grinding.jpg
  • 6 Pattern On Exhaust Seat.jpg
  • 7 Pattern On Intake Valve.jpg
  • 8 Imperfection On Intake Seat.jpg
  • 9 Valve Seats.jpg
  • 10 Patterns On Exhasut And Intake Valves.jpg
  • 11 Ends Of Valve Stems After Final Sanding.jpg
  • 12 Exhaust Valve Open.jpg
  • 13 Intake Valve Open.jpg
  • 14 Exhaust Valve Slightly Open With Compression Release.jpg
  • 15 New Woodruff Key Installed In Crankshaft.jpg
  • 16 Tapped In WIth Wooden Hammer.jpg
  • 17 Flywheel Back In Place On Crank.jpg
  • 18 TDC With Valves Closed.jpg

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#409 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted June 11, 2017 - 03:30 PM

Got the intake and exhaust valve locator cups, seats. old spring and locks cleaned up.  I noticed that the old exhaust spring was shorter than the old intake spring which are the same part number and that both were shorter than the new springs.  I did some measurements with the Vernier caliper and marked them down should someone want to compare how the length of theirs is in relation to a new and used one sometime in the future.  While the locator cups and locks are the same according to the parts list I kept them separate as to which were intake and exhaust so that I could install them back the same way.  The exhaust seat is different to the intake as the exhaust uses a roto-cap incorporated into the seat as shown in the pictures.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Old Exhasut Intake And New Valve Spring Side By Side.jpg
  • 2 Differences In Height.jpg
  • 3 Intake Parts Cleaned Up.jpg
  • 4 Exhaust Parts Cleaned Up.jpg
  • 5 Top View Of Exhaust Rotocap.jpg

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#410 Mark 149 J. ONLINE  

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Posted June 11, 2017 - 03:36 PM

Clearly the new springs are high performance springs to go with a new high lift and duration cam upgrade for the turbo that you plan on installing or your spring are shot! :D


Edited by Mark 149 J., June 11, 2017 - 03:37 PM.

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#411 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted June 11, 2017 - 04:08 PM

I had checked out the manual and it does not provide much information on installing new springs into the valve opening so I put my thinking cap on and came up with a plan that worked out fairly well.  I assume that if I had a spring compressor that would compress the spring enough with the seat and locator cap in place that it could fit between the end of the tappet and the guide and would fit in through the opening it would be an easy enough task but I only have a regular "C" clamp automotive style compressor that they show being used in the manual.  Here is the procedure I used and it worked great on the intake but required about three attempts on the exhaust as the roto-cap makes the exhaust valve seat a bit thicker and as the new valve springs were a little taller they had a bit more tension than what an older one would.  If you are going to use this method I would strongly recommend that you remove the breather reed from the opening so that you don't accidently damage it.  I did the intake first and the first step was to make sure the tappet was in its lowest position so I had the crank rotated so the exhaust valve would be open. I set the intake seat over the intake tappet with the flat side down and then set the intake locating cup on a new valve spring and compressed the spring by hand so that it would fit in the opening.  Once it was in this position I used my gasket scraper which is about 1" wide and has a taper on the end and wedged it between the locator cup and the top of the opening and compressed the spring enough while pushing inward on it to the point that it would go over the lower end of the valve guide - I would suggest you wear a glove on your hand that is pushing on the spring and keep pressure on the spring with your gloved thumb ( I removed mine so I could operate the camera to take pictures).  Once the spring was in this position I used the gasket scraper and wedged it between the spring and the bottom of the opening and compressed the spring so it started to slide over the seat as you can see in picture # 5.  I then pushed the spring a little harder inward and it popped into position as seen in picture # 6.  If you didn't have a gasket scraper like mine a wood chisel might work or you could make a similar tool out of a piece of 1/8" x 1" flat steel and taper the one end.  Then I installed the intake valve and wedged a small flat screwdriver in the centre between the seat and the opening as shown in picture # 9 - this made the jaws of the compressor start under the seat easily.  Once the jaws were fully seated I compressed the spring revealing the groove in the valve that the locks fit into.  I used a small flat screwdriver to spread a bit of grease into the groove on the valve and onto the inside of the two locks.  I used a magnet to set the lock in position on the valve and then I held it with my finger and removed the magnet - then I rotated the lock around to the inside of the opening and set the second lock in place using the same method - the grease did an excellent job of holding the locks in place.  Then I slowly release the spring compressor making sure the valve set was centred around the locks so that it did not catch the edge of the locks and knock them out of the groove in the valve.  With the spring released I removed the spring compressor and had a good look to make sure the locks were in the correct position after I wiped away the excess grease.  I then rotated the crankshaft a few revolutions to make sure the intake valve was opening and closing which it did.      

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Intake Seat Set Over Intake Tappet.jpg
  • 2 New Valve Spring With Intake Locating Cup Set On.jpg
  • 3 Spring With Locator Cup Set In Opening.jpg
  • 4 Locator Cup And Spring Compressed With Gasket Scraper And Over Guide.jpg
  • 5 End Of Spring Started Over Intake Seat.jpg
  • 6 Spring In Place.jpg
  • 7 Gasket Scraper I Used.jpg
  • 8 Intake Valve Installed.jpg
  • 9 Small Flat Screwdriver Wedge Between Seat And Opening.jpg
  • 10 Starting Jaws Of Compressor Under Seat.jpg
  • 11 Jaws Slid In Place Under Seat.jpg
  • 12 Spring Compressed.jpg
  • 13 Spring Compressed.jpg
  • 14 Locks Grease Magnet And Small Scewdriver.jpg
  • 15 Grease Inside Lock.jpg
  • 16 Lock On Magnet.jpg
  • 17 Lock On Valve And Turned Towards Back Of Opening.jpg
  • 18 Second Lock On Valve.jpg
  • 19 Spring Released And Compressor Removed.jpg

Edited by 29 Chev, June 12, 2017 - 09:57 AM.

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#412 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted June 11, 2017 - 04:15 PM

Clearly the new springs are high performance springs to go with a new high lift and duration cam upgrade for the turbo that you plan on installing or your spring are shot! :D

No turbo - not sure I could afford a turbo and I imagine it would void any warranty I may have left (if any) on the altered piston.  I am not condemning the old springs as being shot as in the compressed state they may have almost as much tension as the new ones.  Unsprung springs can be deceiving as to how much force they produce when in a compressed state and I do not have the proper tool to measure the force.  But it is a safe bet to say that the original springs have weakened due to heat over the years - only posting the information for comparison sake as someone may wish to know what a new versus used height would be sometime in the future.  


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Posted June 11, 2017 - 04:47 PM

As I stated installing the exhaust spring was a little harder due to the new spring and the seat with the roto-cap on it being slightly higher but on the third attempt it went over the seat and into place using the scraper method.  Once the locks were installed and the spring released I verified that the locks were in the correct position.  Things looked good so I removed the masking tape and installed the breather reed by installing the washer and screw - please note that the hole is threaded on an angle so that the head of the screw can be accessed squarely with a flat screwdriver.  Since there is a spring washer against the reed and screw and all the force of the head is on an angle I was cautious that I did not overtighten the screw.  Then I installed the valve cover using a new gasket and snugged the bolt up nicely - you may notice in picture number 14 there is a nice shiny new flat washer on the bolt but I did not use it as I realized the original washer was still stuck on the outside of the valve cover.  I also got the 1-1/2" flywheel nut torqued - the manual calls for a torque of 50 - 55 ft/lbs so I went with 53 ft/lbs.  I took a picture of how I held the flywheel from turning using a large flat screwdriver against two 1/4" UNC bolts threaded into the flywheel (the torque wrench has been removed from the 1-1/2" 3/4" drive  socket with the 1/2" adaptor so I could take the picture).

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Exhaust Valve Seat With Rotocap Over Exhaust Tappet.jpg
  • 2 Spring With Locating Cup Set In Opening.jpg
  • 3 Scraper Wedged In Postion.jpg
  • 4 Thumb Holding Spring In Place.jpg
  • 5 Gasket Scraper On Top Of Valve Seat.jpg
  • 6 Spring On Seat Exhaust Valve In Place And Small Flat Screwdriver Wedged.jpg
  • 7 Exhaust Spring Compressed.jpg
  • 8 First Lock In Position And Rotated To Back Of Opening.jpg
  • 9 Second Lock In Place.jpg
  • 10 Spring Released And Verifying Locks In Correct Place.jpg
  • 11 Masking Tape Removed.jpg
  • 12 Breather Reed Screw And Washer Cleaned Up.jpg
  • 13 Breather Reed Installed.jpg
  • 14 Valve Cover Bolt And New Gasket.jpg
  • 15 Valve Cover Installed.jpg
  • 16 How I held Flywheel From Turning While Torquing Nut.jpg

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#414 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted June 13, 2017 - 07:36 PM

I tried threading a few of the head bolts into the block and some were a little hard to turn so I used a 5/16" UNC tap and chased the threads in all nine holes carefully after I lubricated them and the tap with oil - the bolts turned in by hand afterwards.  I mounted the fuel tank bracket loosely with the two 3/8" bolts since it is partially held on with some of the head bolts.  I got the head cleaned up and it looked like it had been sealing nicely with the old gasket - I checked it with a straight edge and it looked flat so I set the head gasket in place.  As you can see in picture number 9 the head gasket will not line up with all the bolt holes if it is upside down.  I flipped it over so that all the holes lined up (picture 10) and set the head in place and started a few bolts ( I applied a dab of never seize to the bolt threads as I remember the first time I removed the head off this engine two bolts broke off and I had to use the mig welder to build them up and remove them) .  Then I installed the heat shield that goes on the front head bolts and noticed that the washer for the head bolt that goes through the middle hole in the fuel tank bracket wasn't quite flush with the top of the bracket.  The hood bracket mounts on top of the two left front head bolts so I set a flat washer on top of the fuel tank bracket and the head bolt washer so that when the bolts are tightened the bracket will be applying pressure to the washers and the head will have pressure applied properly - I was concerned that the hood bracket might not apply adequate pressure to the head bolt washer at the rear bolt.  I snugged all the bolts up by hand using a deep socket but have not torqued them yet - I have the long spacer and the head bolt in the wrong hole at the rear and will have to move them.  I drew up a bolt length chart that shows the correct location for the different lengths of bolts and what brackets, shields and spacers they go through which I believe is correct - it may help someone in the future ( I had drawn one when I disassembled the engine back in March but I was having trouble reading my hand writing and the memory is going apparently). 

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 5 16 UNC Tap.jpg
  • 2 Fuel Tank Bracket Installed Loosely.jpg
  • 3 Fuel Tank Bracket Installed Loosely.jpg
  • 4 Head Cleaned Up.jpg
  • 5 Head Cleaned Up.jpg
  • 6 Head Cleaned Up.jpg
  • 7 Head Cleaned Up.jpg
  • 8 Head Cleaned Up.jpg
  • 9 Head Gasket Upside Down.jpg
  • 10 Head Gasket Holes Correct.jpg
  • 11 Shield And Some Head Bolts Installed.jpg
  • 12 Head Bolt Washer Not Quite Flush WIth Top Of Fuel Tank Bracket.jpg
  • 13 New Flat Washers Added.jpg
  • 14 Hood Bracket In Place.jpg
  • 15 Spacer In Wrong Spot.jpg
  • 16 Head Bolt Placement.jpg

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#415 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted June 14, 2017 - 07:02 PM

Got the head bolts removed and spacer switched so it is now in the correct location so that when I am ready to mount the heat shield that the solenoid and regulator go on it will only be a matter of undoing the head bolt with the spacer, installing the shield and then torque the head bolt again - for the time being I left the heat shield off and torqued the head bolts in three steps as per the manual.  The manual calls for torqueing them to 10 ft/lbs, 14 ft/lbs and then 18 ft/lbs but does not give a sequence that I could find so I started in the middle and worked my way towards the left and right edges in the pattern I have marked in  picture # 4.  Once the head bolts were tight I tightened the lower fuel tank mounting bolts and gave them a quick squirt of paint.  Had a short piece of new 1/4" rubber fuel line so I routed it across the front of the engine in behind the flywheel - will cut it to the appropriate length when I mount the carb and fuel tank.  Got the fan shroud installed along with the back plate on the left side which mounts with the left lower shroud bolt - made sure I would be able to see the timing mark in the viewing hole in the back of the plate since I am hoping to time the engine with a timing light.  Before I mounted the shroud I gave the head and head bolts a quick squirt of paint, added some 10W30 oil to the crankcase to the full level and tilted the engine towards the front and rear for a few minutes so the oil would coat the crankshaft end bearings.  Then I turned the engine over by hand with a spark plug threaded in hand tight and verified I had suction on the intake port during the intake stroke and blow from the exhaust port during the exhaust stroke - it seems to have good compression so I am not sure how well the old starter generator will roll it over - time will tell.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Spacer In Correct Hole.jpg
  • 2 Heat Shield That Head Bolt Goes Through.jpg
  • 3 Head Bolts Torqued.jpg
  • 4 Torque Sequence I Used.jpg
  • 5 Lower Fuel Tank Bracket Bolts Tightened.jpg
  • 6 Heads Of Bolts Given Squirt Of Paint.jpg
  • 7 Fuel Line Hose Routed Behing Flywheel.jpg
  • 8 Fuel Line Through Hole In Tank Bracket.jpg
  • 9 Fan Shroud Installed.jpg
  • 10 Right Lower Shroud Bolt.jpg
  • 11 Timing Mark Visible Through Shroud Hole.jpg
  • 12 Left Lower Shroud Mounting Bolt.jpg
  • 13 Fan Shroud Installed.jpg

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#416 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted June 14, 2017 - 07:10 PM

Got the pulleys and screen cleaned up and painted - as I mentioned my brother added a second pulley in front of the original pulley so he could use a rope to start the engine without having to remover the belt to the starter generator.  He used three 5/16" nuts as spacers on each off the mounting bolts ( as you can see in the first picture) and while they would have worked ok again I decided to make up three new spacers by taking some 1/2" round stock and drilling 1/4" holes in them.  I decided to add a little contrast by painting the fan screen silver metallic ( I believe it was painted brown the same as the engine originally in the 1050) - I also painted the pulleys the same colour as the engine.  Got them installed and also got the throttle linkage arm installed. 

Attached Thumbnails

  • .5 Nuts Used As Spacers For Second Pulley.jpg
  • 1 New Spacers For Second Pulley.jpg
  • 2 Fan Screen Painted Silver Metallic.jpg
  • 3 Original Belt Pulley.jpg
  • 4 Second Pulley Off Of Something Else.jpg
  • 5 Pulleys And Screen Installed.jpg
  • 6 Pulleys And Screen Installed.jpg
  • 7 Throttle Linkage Arm Installed.jpg
  • 8 Engine With Pulleys And Shroud On.jpg

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#417 stiemmy OFFLINE  

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Posted June 14, 2017 - 11:18 PM

Looks, and will run better than new!!!
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#418 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted June 15, 2017 - 09:05 AM

Looks, and will run better than new!!!

Thanks for the kind words - it looks better in the pictures than it does close up but it will look respectable - as long as it runs as good as new I will be happy.


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#419 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted June 15, 2017 - 06:50 PM

After about an hour of scrubbing, scraping and wire brushing I finally got the carb and intake cleaned up enough that I could paint it - the first picture shows what the carb looked like when I removed it from the engine back in March - I even found that I could still read the tag number.  I masked off the intake port and the fuel inlet (while I cleaned the carb up I had the old fuel hose slid over the inlet to keep the dirt out) and gave the inner side of the carb a quick shot of paint.  While it dried I mounted the crank sensor bracket and the crank sensor on the front shroud where it had been before.  I had a "U" shaped spacer under the sensor to widen the air gap but I took it out as there is about 1/8" space between the sensor and the stub without it - checked the senor with a voltmeter to make sure it was working which it was - used an a analog meter and the needle jumped a little bit on the AC 0 - 10 volt scale when the trigger stub moved under the crank sensor.  Then I gave the outer side of the carb a shot of paint and let it dry, unmasked the carb, found the new intake gasket and installed the carb on the engine.  Attached the rod that goes from the governor arm to the throttle and the return spring and noticed the return spring coils were rubbing against the valve cover - there was a shiny spot on the spring before I painted it where it had been rubbing in the past.  I loosened the bolt that holds the governor arm on the shaft and then slid the arm towards the outer end of the shaft about 3/8" which let the return spring clear the valve cover.  I set the governor arm on the shaft as per the manual and tightened the bolt again.  To set the shaft the governor arm is held at open throttle, then the shaft is rotated counter clockwise until you feel the inner arm against the governor and then the bolt is tightened.   

Attached Thumbnails

  • .5 Carb When Removed.jpg
  • 1 Carb Cleaned Up.jpg
  • 2 Return Spring And Governor Rod.jpg
  • 3 Carb Tag Number.jpg
  • 4 Intake Port And Fuel Inlet Masked.jpg
  • 5 Crank Sensor And Bracket.jpg
  • 6 Part Number Of Crank Sensor.jpg
  • 7 Inner Side Of Carb Painted.jpg
  • 8 Crank Sensor Mounted.jpg
  • 9 Air Gap Between Sensor And Trigger Stub.jpg
  • 10 Outer Side Of Carb Painted.jpg
  • 11 Return Spring Rubbing On Valve Cover.jpg
  • 12 Arm Slid Out On Governor Shaft.jpg
  • 13 Carb Installed.jpg

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#420 29 Chev ONLINE  

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  • Location: Ontario Canada

Posted June 15, 2017 - 06:56 PM

Once the carb was mounted I installed the air filter rod, a new air filter and the air filter housing.  I also installed a new Champion D-16 spark plug and stuck some 3/8" wide foam tape to the inside of the fuel tank straps in spots where the tank will come in contact with them and also on the fuel tank bracket where the tank mounts - I hope the foam tape won't be too thick for to let me start the tanks bolts in the straps - time will tell.  I think I will leave the fuel tank off until after I mount the engine in the tractor so that I can set the tank in the correct location so it clears the rear engine compartment shield.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Carb Installed.jpg
  • 2 Air Filter Housing Rod Installed.jpg
  • 3 New Air Filter Installed.jpg
  • 4 Air FIlter Housing Installed.jpg
  • 5 Air Filter Housing Installed.jpg
  • 5 New Spark Plug.jpg
  • 6 Foam Tape Stuck On Tank Brackets And Straps.jpg
  • 7 Foam Tape On Straps.jpg
  • 8 Foam Tape On Straps.jpg
  • 9 Foam Tape On Tank Bracket.jpg

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