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Bolens 1053 Return to Service Project


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#391 Chubien OFFLINE  

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Posted May 30, 2017 - 06:36 PM

That paint looks like a real good match!

I'm glad it was you and not me with that piston issue, so is the conclusion that we can't rebuild tra10's due to the correct pistons no longer available? And pistons for the tr10's are still available from Wisconsin?

Let me know if you need any parts to keep your project moving.
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#392 logmillingman ONLINE  

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Posted May 31, 2017 - 07:29 AM

really been enjoying your engine rebuild and the other parts of your rebuild, I am taking mental notes and writing down specific details of your whole project, so when it comes time to do my Bolens 1000, 1050, and 1256 I can refer back to this amazing project you are doing, great detail, nicely done, great work!

 

The paint you are using, is it custom mix or stock colors, can spray, or a combination of both? I keep a work book on each tractor so I can reference back on different specific details as I learn them.


Edited by logmillingman, May 31, 2017 - 08:20 AM.

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#393 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted May 31, 2017 - 07:57 AM

The paint you are using, is it custom mix or stock colors, can spray, or a combination of both? I keep a work book on each tractor so I can reference back on different specific details as I learn them.

If your are talking the paint I am using on the engine the paint is a spray bomb that I had mixed up at an auto parts store - the same one I used in this thread - http://gardentractor...cordovan-brown/  .  It is supposed to be the same mix code as the Cordovan Brown that is in the pdf that is in the first post of this thread - http://gardentractor...ns-paint-codes/ .   If you are talking the ivory for the main part of the tractor  it is a Krylon premixed gloss ivory - http://gardentractor...-project/page-3  post #41 and post #147.


Edited by 29 Chev, June 01, 2017 - 06:02 PM.

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#394 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted May 31, 2017 - 08:44 AM

I'm glad it was you and not me with that piston issue, so is the conclusion that we can't rebuild tra10's due to the correct pistons no longer available? And pistons for the tr10's are still available from Wisconsin?

 

By the sounds of it there are still NOS pistons available to be had but they will probably have to be modified on the skirt to use them in the TRA10D application which a good machine shop should be able to do.        

 

While the pistons from Wisconsin are no longer being manufactured I would say that these engines can still be repaired as long as the block, crankshaft and camshaft are still in good condition as I do not believe that you can purchase these items new anymore.  When I was talking to the machine shop initially they suggested the option of putting a sleeve in the block and then sizing it to the old piston if a new one could not be found.  They also suggested that if a new rod could not be obtained then they could put a bearing insert in my old rod.  My understanding is that ring sets, gaskets, valves, valve guides and other items such as crank bearings and seals are still available from Wisconsin or other suppliers. Plus in todays world it probably would not be that hard to find a supplier that could manufacture new rods and pistons with the computer technology that is available if there is a demand.  I would say the biggest problem to keeping the TR10D, TRA10D and TRA12D engines going will be the cost of the parts and machining versus what a new modern engine can be purchased for.  It will be interesting to see how much money I will have in the engine alone by the time I am done - not complaining because the Wisconsin's have a reputation of being a reliable long lasting engine.  The sad part of the equation is that a lot of these engines have already been scrapped and  replaced with cheaper clone engines because people were not willing to spend the money necessary to repair them and as a result the demand for parts has declined to the point where Wisconsin has stopped producing a lot of the parts for them.  


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#395 Bolens 1000 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 31, 2017 - 09:20 AM

Stew is dead on, if you spend the $$ theres no reason these engines cant stay running for another 40+ years, I can tell you mine never will get a "Repower" as long as I own mine.

 

I would say about 80% of the parts on these motors can still be easily maintained , most of my inventory I stock for these motors comes right from wisconsins factory and there is so much NOS parts still out there I would not be concerned about availability down the road. Plus with modern technology its really not that big of a deal to make a part anymore as long as your willing to spend the $$.


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#396 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted May 31, 2017 - 10:14 AM

Too bad that Wisconsin does not offer a newer version of this engine either as a drop in replacement or a short block version with a newer ignition, starting and charging system but it would probably be cost prohibitive and to make an engine like this meet EPA specs, fuel economy and run quietly on todays fuels might be a tough challenge to be competitive with what is already available in the market.  Sadly in todays world the consumer wants something that is higher in horse power, efficient, quiet and inexpensive.


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#397 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted May 31, 2017 - 04:47 PM

Did a bit more today - got the fuel tank bracket welded, sanded and painted as well as the fuel tank.  Set the other parts out in the sunshine to dry which worked well until the liquid sunshine showed up again this afternoon so I had to move them back indoors.  Had a look at the solder job I did about 10 years ago on the bottom of the tank and it seemed to be holding.  I think when I put the brackets back on I will use some weather strip the same as was used on the dash on the inside of the straps as the tank has marks where the straps have actually made impression in the metal of the tank.  The tank cracked at one of the straps which is why I soldered it and at that time I used strips of an old inner tube from a bicycle wrapped around the tank to protect it where the straps went - went around the rubber with some electrical tape to hold the strips in place while I mounted the tank in the straps.   I also put the washer back on the dipstick and put a couple of tack welds on the dipstick to hold the washer in place - used a piece of sheet metal with a slot cut in it to protect the rubber from the heat while I was welding.  Picked up a new push pull switch that will probably be the new head light switch and also got the heat shield from the 1050 that the solenoid and regulator mount on painted - did it in ivory as I was starting to run out of the cordovan paint.  Going by the parts manual the fuel tank that was used was a different size than the stock one for the TRA10D - I wonder if Bolens sourced this from Wisconsin as there appears to be orange paint under where the straps were?

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Location Of Fuel Tank Straps.jpg
  • 2 Solder Repair Job I Did About 10 Years Ago.jpg
  • 3 Parts Outside To Dry In Sun.jpg
  • 4 Parts Outside To Dry In Sun.jpg
  • 5 Parts Outside To Dry In Sun.jpg
  • 6 Tank Strap Welded.jpg
  • 7 Tank Strap Welded.jpg
  • 8 Weld Sanded.jpg
  • 9 Weld Sanded.jpg
  • 10 Tank Painted.jpg
  • 11 Strap Painted.jpg
  • 12 Tank Painted.jpg
  • 13 Tack Weld On Dipstick To Hold Washer.jpg
  • 14 Sheet Metal With Slot To Protect Boot.jpg
  • 15 Dipstick With Sheet Metal Piece Removed.jpg
  • 16 Dipstick With Sheet Metal Piece Removed.jpg
  • 17 New Light Switch.jpg
  • 18 Heat Shield Painted.jpg
  • 19 Heat Shield Painted.jpg
  • 20 Heat Shield Painted.jpg

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#398 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted June 02, 2017 - 06:03 PM

Got the crankshaft seals, dipstick, oil drain pipe installed on the engine.  I didn't have the special sleeve that they recommend in the manual to install the rear crank seal so I wrapped the crank with black electrical tape to make the transition at the step smooth, lubricated things with new oil and slid the seal over the tape gently so I did not damage the lip.  Used a short 2x4 and gentle taps with the hammer to install the front and rear seals.  Then I washed the block off a couple of times with paint thinners to remove any oil and masked the block and crankshaft ends.  I threaded some bolts into the holes as some of them are open into the crankcase to keep the paint out of them.   I had ordered a couple more spray bombs of the Corral Cordovan paint and picked them up today so the block got a couple of quick coats of paint to make it look pretty.  Unmasked the block and then slid the flywheel on and gave it a quick squirt of paint as well. 

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Crankshaft Seals.jpg
  • 2 Front Seal Installed.jpg
  • 3 Black Tape On Rear Of Crankshaft To Protect Lip.jpg
  • 4 Ready To Install Seal.jpg
  • 5 Rear Seal Installed.jpg
  • 6 Block Masked.jpg
  • 7 Block Masked.jpg
  • 8 Block Masked.jpg
  • 9 Block Masked.jpg
  • 10 Block Painted.jpg
  • 11 Block Painted.jpg
  • 12 Block Unmasked.jpg
  • 13 Block Unmasked.jpg
  • 14 Block Unmasked.jpg
  • 15 Flywheel Set On And Painted.jpg

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#399 Bolens 1000 OFFLINE  

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Posted June 02, 2017 - 07:19 PM

oooh thats nice!


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#400 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted June 02, 2017 - 07:40 PM

oooh thats nice!

I love that colour - I figured it will never get a chance to look any better so I decided to make it look kinda pretty at least once - almost looks as nice as your Briggs.  The engine stand worked nice to rotate the engine so I could shoot a little paint at the bottom as well and a few pieces of cardboard worked to keep the paint off of the engine stand.  I am looking forward to getting it back together and see what it looks like contrasting against the ivory on the 1053.


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#401 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted June 03, 2017 - 03:53 PM

Did a few more things today.  I decided to mount the old point set in the points box as this will keep the pin that the camshaft pushes on from coming out due to vibration - I set the points so they will always be closed as this will keep the wear block from wearing in case I ever want to use them somewhere down the road.  I never was a fan of the flat copper strip that Wisconsin used to connect the points to the stud as I have had the strip short out on the cover so I made a short jumper wire with an eye on the stud end and a spade terminal on the end going to the points.  Once I did that I installed the points cover and I used a bit of ivory paint to highlight the timing mark groove in the flywheel to make it easier to see.  Got the bracket for the starter generator bolted back on as well as the side heat shield where the dipstick is.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Points In Box And Wire To Screw.jpg
  • 2 Points Cover Installed.jpg
  • 3 Ivory Paint In Timing Mark Groove.jpg
  • 4 Starter Generator Bracket Installed.jpg
  • 5 Side Heat Shield Installed.jpg
  • 6 Side Heat Shield Installed.jpg

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#402 TomLGT195 OFFLINE  

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Posted June 04, 2017 - 06:01 AM

Did you get the spray bomb paint in high heat for the engine?



#403 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted June 04, 2017 - 07:04 AM

Did you get the spray bomb paint in high heat for the engine?

No it is just a good automotive single stage enamel paint - my experience has been that a good quality automotive paint will withstand the engine heat except in the exhaust port area.  I am not overly worried about the paint coming off a few spots on the engine if it does not stay on. 


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#404 Bolens 1000 OFFLINE  

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Posted June 04, 2017 - 07:08 AM

No it is just a good automotive single stage enamel paint - my experience has been that a good quality automotive paint will withstand the engine heat except in the exhaust port area.  I am not overly worried about the paint coming off a few spots on the engine if it does not stay on. 

 

Same here, have not had any issues on mine except the exhaust which is expected 


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#405 SamMC OFFLINE  

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Posted June 06, 2017 - 03:26 PM

Thanks for all the great advice. I am pretty confident I can turn this pile of parts back into a tractor, your pictures are very much appreciated.






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