Jump to content

Garden Tractors and Parts on eBay



Photo
- - - - -

Bolens 1053 Return to Service Project


  • Please log in to reply
526 replies to this topic

#346 KennyP OFFLINE  

KennyP

    FORDoholic

  • Super Moderator
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2253
  • 35,187 Thanks
  • 44,172 posts
  • Location: Collinsville, Oklahoma

Posted April 03, 2017 - 09:10 AM

Dimensions are in post 339 if you want to make some - the 1" nylon would have to be shaved down to 3/4" - good luck.  If you make enough money from them you will be able to buy more tractors and attachments. :thumbs:  :thumbs:

:bigrofl:


  • 29 Chev said thank you

#347 logmillingman OFFLINE  

logmillingman
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 68213
  • 385 Thanks
  • 228 posts

Posted April 18, 2017 - 07:30 AM

What I would try is "Quad" caulk I get it at Home Depot It comes in different colors white or clear would work good, spread some on the surface and clamp it together, it should hold well and will not separate. Let it cure for a week before installing the screw.


  • 29 Chev said thank you

#348 29 Chev OFFLINE  

29 Chev

    A Little Off Plumb

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 63590
  • 7,108 Thanks
  • 2,324 posts
  • Location: Ontario Canada

Posted April 27, 2017 - 06:30 PM

The chap from the machine shop advised me that the crank would clean up at .010" and the block would also clean up at .010" but unfortunately he did not have any luck coming up with a new connecting rod and piston in .010" as the Wisconsin supplier he dealt with said the were NLA - the rod was only available in .030" as an oversize and he suggested putting a sleeve in the engine as a STD piston was still available.  I reached out to "Bolens 1000" and in very short order the good Doctor came up with a new piston, rod and ring set in .010" and a complete gasket set - they arrived in the mail today so I can send the piston and rod to the machine shop and they can go to work on the engine and crank next week ( I hope).  With spring in full bloom I may not get much done to the 1053 for a while but at least I can move ahead slowly with the engine.  My thanks to Brian for his help with the parts and excellent service.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Gasket Set.jpg
  • 2 Ring Set.jpg
  • 3 Piston.jpg
  • 4 Piston.jpg
  • 5 Piston.jpg
  • 6 Piston.jpg
  • 7 Connecting Rod.jpg
  • 8 Connecting Rod.jpg
  • 9 Connecting Rod.jpg

  • Bolens 1000, fonz3482, LPBolens and 8 others have said thanks

#349 Bolens 1000 OFFLINE  

Bolens 1000

    DR. Bolens

  • Staff Admin
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 7
  • 14,631 Thanks
  • 17,964 posts
  • Location: Western NY

Posted April 27, 2017 - 06:44 PM

Its great to see people keeping these Wisconsin motors alive!

I'm sure the motor will be like new when its done


  • Bruce Dorsi, blackjackjakexxix, WrenchinOnIt and 4 others have said thanks

#350 Dave in NY OFFLINE  

Dave in NY

    New Member

  • Member
  • Member No: 7601
  • 62 Thanks
  • 39 posts

Posted April 27, 2017 - 06:52 PM

With all the repairs you have made on this tractor,and now a fresh motor,it will live on for many more years!
  • blackjackjakexxix, 29 Chev and logmillingman have said thanks

#351 logmillingman OFFLINE  

logmillingman
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 68213
  • 385 Thanks
  • 228 posts

Posted April 27, 2017 - 09:42 PM

those parts look nice, my other three Bolens projects after the H14 project all have Wisconsin engines in them, so I am looking forward to seeing the pictures of you reassembling your Wisconsin engine. Keep up the good work 29 Chev!


  • blackjackjakexxix and 29 Chev have said thanks

#352 29 Chev OFFLINE  

29 Chev

    A Little Off Plumb

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 63590
  • 7,108 Thanks
  • 2,324 posts
  • Location: Ontario Canada

Posted May 04, 2017 - 04:28 PM

Got the decal package I ordered for the tractor this week so I decided today I would check them out and see how they would look - everything looks good so far.  I decided to try and install the dash decal today so I removed the dash panel and used a mixture of dishwashing soap and water on the surface - found out it was a little cool in the shop to get the soapy water to dissipate so I turned on the heat in the shop. Here are the results - not the most perfect decal installation job (my fault - not the decals) but looks better than it did before in my opinion.  I think I will wait for warmer weather and there are some parts I want to repaint before I install any more decals but at least now I can put the ammeter and ignition switch in the dash.

Attached Thumbnails

  • .5 Original Dash.jpg
  • 1 Dash Before.jpg
  • 2 Decal Test Fit.jpg
  • 3 Cutting Hole Openinings Out.jpg
  • 4 Openings Cut Out.jpg
  • 5 Decal Installed On Dash Panel.jpg

  • Bolens 1000, blackjackjakexxix, WrenchinOnIt and 3 others have said thanks

#353 29 Chev OFFLINE  

29 Chev

    A Little Off Plumb

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 63590
  • 7,108 Thanks
  • 2,324 posts
  • Location: Ontario Canada

Posted May 22, 2017 - 04:05 PM

Got the block and crank back from the machine shop a couple of weeks ago but since I did not have time to work on it then I oiled the machine surfaces and set them aside.  Today I took some time and after checking the sizes of the crank, rod, piston and bore I started cleaning things up.  I had already removed the protective coating on the new rod journal using brakleen so I could accurately measure the inside diameter of the journal.  There was a bit of surface rust on the connecting rod lock washers so I used a fine scotchbrite pad to remove the rust and then coated them with new motor oil.  Then I bolted the engine block back on to the engine stand and gave the block a good cleaning by scrubbing the surfaces with a mixture of dish washer soap and water and a stiff tooth brush.  Then I rinsed the block clean and blew it off with compressed air.  Did this about three time to make sure things were clean on the inside - the engine stand worked great to hold the block while I worked on cleaning it up and it was nice to be able to rotate the engine in various positions as I flushed it and blew the water off.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Protective Coating On Rod Journal.jpg
  • 2 Coating Removed On Lower Half.jpg
  • 3 Crank Ground Ten Thousands.jpg
  • 4 Rust On Locks For Rod Bolts.jpg
  • 5 Rust On Locks For Rod Bolts.jpg
  • 6 Block Back On Engine Stand.jpg
  • 7 Cleaning WIth Soapy Water.jpg
  • 8 Trigger Spray Bottle With Dishwater Soap.jpg
  • 9 Cleaning With Soapy Water.jpg
  • 10 Cylinder Bored Ten Thous.jpg
  • 11 Block Rotated And Flushed With Clean Water.jpg
  • 12 Spacers Allowed Cleaning Bottom Of Block.jpg
  • 13 Block Rotated And Flushed.jpg
  • 14 Cleaning Inside Of Block.jpg

  • Bolens 1000, Bruce Dorsi, blackjackjakexxix and 5 others have said thanks

#354 Bolens 1000 OFFLINE  

Bolens 1000

    DR. Bolens

  • Staff Admin
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 7
  • 14,631 Thanks
  • 17,964 posts
  • Location: Western NY

Posted May 22, 2017 - 04:14 PM

Looking good!

I am always impressed by your stands you make to support these engines and the frames!


  • 29 Chev said thank you

#355 29 Chev OFFLINE  

29 Chev

    A Little Off Plumb

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 63590
  • 7,108 Thanks
  • 2,324 posts
  • Location: Ontario Canada

Posted May 22, 2017 - 04:23 PM

Moved on to cleaning up the crank using the same method and then I coated all the machined surfaces with new motor oil and wrapped the crank in a clear garbage bag.  Applied a coating of new motor oil to the machine surfaces on the block and covered it with a clear garbage bag. Cleaned up and lubricated the new piston and pin and started the pin into the piston.  Since it is a press fit in the piston I used a wooden hammer to drive the pin in while holding the piston in my hand until the pin just extended past the inside of the piston.  Inserted the rod and started it on to the pin and drove the pin in with the hammer until it was flush with the side of the piston and then I used the press and a 1/2" socket to push the pin in to centre it in the piston letting the piston sit on a short 2x4 while it was in the press.  Inserted the two snap rings and made sure the pin rotated freely in the top of the rod and oiled it.  Then I did some comparisons between the old and new rod and piston.  The old piston had a curved are below where the pin goes whereas the new one is the same all the way around the bottom of the skirt.  There is quite a difference in the diameter of the piston if it is measure at the thrust area and then at ninety degrees where the pin is - marked the sizes on the cardboard beside each piston as you can see in the pictures - the old piston was worn in the thrust area.  I read the manual a few times but saw no mention of the orientation of the piston in relation to the rod and after checking with Brian (Bolens1000) I found out the piston can be mounted either way.  I did notice a couple of grind marks on the indentation of the new rod - I assume these were from the balancing process.  

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Cleaning Crank.jpg
  • 2 Machined Surfaces Oiled On Crank.jpg
  • 3 Crank In Garbage Bag.jpg
  • 4 Machined Surfaces On Bolck Coated WIth Oil.jpg
  • 5 Machined Surfaces On Bolck COated WIth Oil.jpg
  • 6 Block Covered WIth Clear Garbage Bag.jpg
  • 7 Starting To Install Piston Pin.jpg
  • 8 Wooden Hammer.jpg
  • 9 Pin Just Past Inside Of Piston.jpg
  • 10 Rod Started On Pin.jpg
  • 11 Pin Starting Into Other Hole.jpg
  • 12 Pin And Snap Rings Installed And Comparing To Old Unit.jpg
  • 13 Sizes Of New Rod And Piston.jpg
  • 14 Sizes Of Old Rod And Piston.jpg
  • 15 Orignal Piston Curved At Bottom Of Pin Area.jpg
  • 16 New Piston Same All Around Base.jpg
  • 17 Couple Of Grind Marks In Side Of Rod.jpg

  • Bolens 1000, Bruce Dorsi, blackjackjakexxix and 3 others have said thanks

#356 29 Chev OFFLINE  

29 Chev

    A Little Off Plumb

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 63590
  • 7,108 Thanks
  • 2,324 posts
  • Location: Ontario Canada

Posted May 22, 2017 - 04:26 PM

Looking good!

I am always impressed by your stands you make to support these engines and the frames!

Thanks - it takes a little time to make the adaptors but once they are made then I have them and my back and knees thank me every time I make use of them.  I had time while the block was away to modify the two side rails so that the engine can now be mounted closer to the head of the stand.


Edited by 29 Chev, May 22, 2017 - 04:27 PM.

  • blackjackjakexxix and logmillingman have said thanks

#357 Clevis ONLINE  

Clevis
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 82966
  • 211 Thanks
  • 130 posts
  • Location: Clark County, Washington

Posted May 22, 2017 - 04:50 PM

Just re-read this thread this afternoon.  Just wow.  Thanks for sharing.  On the edge of my seat from now on to see how it all comes together.  


  • 29 Chev said thank you

#358 Bruce Dorsi OFFLINE  

Bruce Dorsi

    Old, but not dead -- yet!

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 1525
  • 3,872 Thanks
  • 2,432 posts
  • Location: New Jersey

Posted May 22, 2017 - 07:52 PM

Did they bore & hone the cylinder, or just bore it or just hone it?

 

The reason I ask, is that bore looks rough, like from tool marks or coarse stones.  ....Maybe it's just the camera angle and lighting, but it doesn't appear to have that nice, cross-hatched look.


  • blackjackjakexxix, ClassicBolens, 29 Chev and 1 other said thanks

#359 ClassicBolens OFFLINE  

ClassicBolens
  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 48806
  • 1,357 Thanks
  • 490 posts
  • Location: IN

Posted May 22, 2017 - 09:20 PM

Did they bore & hone the cylinder, or just bore it or just hone it?

The reason I ask, is that bore looks rough, like from tool marks or coarse stones. ....Maybe it's just the camera angle and lighting, but it doesn't appear to have that nice, cross-hatched look.


I had the same thoughts.
  • blackjackjakexxix, 29 Chev and logmillingman have said thanks

#360 29 Chev OFFLINE  

29 Chev

    A Little Off Plumb

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 63590
  • 7,108 Thanks
  • 2,324 posts
  • Location: Ontario Canada

Posted May 23, 2017 - 08:12 AM

Did they bore & hone the cylinder, or just bore it or just hone it?

 

The reason I ask, is that bore looks rough, like from tool marks or coarse stones.  ....Maybe it's just the camera angle and lighting, but it doesn't appear to have that nice, cross-hatched look.

It may be the camera angle and lighting - I checked with the machine shop and they said it should be ok to use that way. 


  • Bruce Dorsi, blackjackjakexxix, WrenchinOnIt and 1 other said thanks




Top