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Bolens 1053 Return to Service Project


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#331 Bolens 1000 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 30, 2017 - 07:38 PM

The "1" designates standard on these engines or sometimes a "O"

Any 1/2 over engine I ever seen has the 1/2 in the piston too.

 

Rods were furnished STD,.010,.020,.030


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#332 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted March 30, 2017 - 07:42 PM

The "1" designates standard on these engines or sometimes a "O"

Any 1/2 over engine I ever seen has the 1/2 in the piston too.

 

Rods were furnished STD,.010,.020,.030

I wonder if someone replaced the piston at some point and just used a standard size piston not knowing the significance of the "1/2" - might explain why the piston is worn a bit at the skirt.


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#333 Mark 149 J. ONLINE  

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Posted March 30, 2017 - 11:30 PM

I wonder if someone replaced the piston at some point and just used a standard size piston not knowing the significance of the "1/2" - might explain why the piston is worn a bit at the skirt.

That sounds reasonable, especially if they didn't have a bore gauge.  Have you done any measurement of the bore and piston yet?



#334 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted March 31, 2017 - 07:42 AM

That sounds reasonable, especially if they didn't have a bore gauge.  Have you done any measurement of the bore and piston yet?

Yes - check out post #307.  I am just using a digital caliper and a cheap set of bore gauges so that is one of the reasons I am sending the items to the machine shop to get the piston, bore, rod and crank measured.


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#335 Bruce Dorsi OFFLINE  

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Posted March 31, 2017 - 08:34 AM

Is the piston skirt "round"?

 

I seem to recall the pistons were cam-ground to allow for expansion.


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#336 logmillingman ONLINE  

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Posted March 31, 2017 - 08:36 AM

This is great information, thanks to all you guys I am getting up to speed on all this stuff, I've be following this build because I have a Bolens 1000 with the 10 hp Wisconsin in it that may need to be worked on. The guy I got it from said it was a good engine but it has been sitting a long time. 


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#337 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted March 31, 2017 - 08:43 AM

Is the piston skirt "round"?

 

I seem to recall the pistons were cam-ground to allow for expansion.

If I remember correctly it is not round - have the items all boxed up to be shipped out today so I will wait and see what the machine shop says.


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#338 Bolens800uk OFFLINE  

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Posted March 31, 2017 - 04:52 PM

Just been catching up with your developments on the engine Stew. I got to sort out my engine as it smokes really badly! My UK Bolens pals think it's need a new set of rings and possibly pistons too. I will have to source a machine shop local to me to get that sorted at some point.
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#339 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted April 01, 2017 - 05:33 PM

While I am waiting for news on the engine block and crank I decided I would try and do some other things to keep me busy on the 1053.  Back around the first week of March I decided to try and make a couple of new hood latches as they did not come with the tractor (I have a pair spoken for from another member but I was curious to see if they could be made).  I took a latch off of one of my 1050's and did some measurements and cut out four oversized triangular shaped pieces out of the cutting board material I have been using which is 3/8" thick.  I sanded the surfaces on one side and bonded two pieces together using JB Weld and clamped then together - they have been set aside in the house ever since so the JB Weld should be cured and a good bond.  Today I levelled off and trued up the long side with the sander and then I marked the finished size with a pencil on the two pieces.  Once that was done I used the sander and a flat file to shape the edges to the desired size and contours.  After that I marked the hole locations and using the drill press I drilled pilot holes and then the size necessary to tap the holes to 5/16" UNC - I used a piece of masking tape to mark the drill bits for the proper depth of the holes.  Still have to tap the holes and try them on for a test fit but I think they should work until I get the other ones.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Hood Latch From 1050.jpg
  • 2 Hood Latch From 1050.jpg
  • 3 Hood Latch From 1050.jpg
  • 4 Hood Latch From 1050.jpg
  • 5 Triangular Pieces Cut Out Of Cutting Board Material.jpg
  • 6 Triangular Pieces Joined Together And Clamped.jpg
  • 7 Long Side Squared Up.jpg
  • 8 New Pieces Shaped With Sander.jpg
  • 9 Depth To Drill Holes.jpg
  • 10 Tape On Drill Bit To Mark Depth.jpg
  • 11 Drilling Block WIth Pilot Hole Drill Bit.jpg
  • 12 Alignment Mark On Side Of Triangular Piece For Alignment Of Drill Bit.jpg
  • 13 Holes Drilled Ready To Be Tapped.jpg

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#340 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted April 02, 2017 - 03:12 PM

Got the holes threaded - put a few layers of masking tape on the pieces so the bench vise did not mark them up too bad.  Took some glass cleaner and sandpaper to them to clean them up and smooth off the surfaces a bit.  Installed one of the latches and as I was tightening up the bolt the J B Weld bond let go and the two halves came apart - I was disappointed but not surprised as I had wondered how well the J B Weld would bond to the plastic surface.  Got four 10-32 a 3/4" machine screws and nuts and drilled two holes in the pieces to bolt them together - on the one that came apart I also applied some plastic and trim adhesive to give it a bit more strength.  I countersunk the holes a little bit so that the nuts were on about full thread and then I tried installing the hood latches again - this time they stayed together.  Will still have to adjust them a bit and they do not look quite the same as the proper ones but should do the job.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Holes Threaded.jpg
  • 2 Surfaces Sanded And Smoothed Up.jpg
  • 3 Surfaces Sanded And Smoothed Up.jpg
  • 4 Surfaces Sanded And Smoothed Up.jpg
  • 5 Surfaces Sanded And Smoothed Up.jpg
  • 6 J B Weld Bond Let Go.jpg
  • 7 10-32 Bolts And Plastic And Emblem Adhesive.jpg
  • 8 10-32 Bolts And Plastic And Emblem Adhesive.jpg
  • 9 Latches Installed.jpg
  • 10 Latches Installed.jpg
  • 11 Hood Open About One Inch.jpg
  • 12 Hood Closed.jpg
  • 13 Hood Closed.jpg
  • 14 Hood Closed.jpg
  • 15 Hood Closed.jpg

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#341 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted April 02, 2017 - 03:29 PM

So that's where they go.


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#342 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted April 02, 2017 - 03:32 PM

So that's where they go.

Yes - without them installed and adjusted correctly the hood will usually vibrate and try and flip open when you back up I find.


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#343 Bruce Dorsi OFFLINE  

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Posted April 02, 2017 - 04:51 PM

 ... the J B Weld bond let go and the two halves came apart - I was disappointed but not surprised as I had wondered how well the J B Weld would bond to the plastic surface. 

 

Most of those cutting boards are made of high-density polyethylene.  ...I don't think there is an adhesive that glues polyethylene.

 

Loctite makes a glue specifically for hard plastics, but I don't think that will work on polyethylene, either.

 

I believe the original hood latches are made of nylon.


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#344 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted April 02, 2017 - 05:16 PM

Most of those cutting boards are made of high-density polyethylene.  ...I don't think there is an adhesive that glues polyethylene.

 

Loctite makes a glue specifically for hard plastics, but I don't think that will work on polyethylene, either.

 

I believe the original hood latches are made of nylon.

And I have a nice big thick (1") piece of nylon here!  Get me the dimensions and I'll make some money selling them! LOL.


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#345 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted April 03, 2017 - 08:20 AM

And I have a nice big thick (1") piece of nylon here!  Get me the dimensions and I'll make some money selling them! LOL.

Dimensions are in post 339 if you want to make some - the 1" nylon would have to be shaved down to 3/4" - good luck.  If you make enough money from them you will be able to buy more tractors and attachments. :thumbs:  :thumbs:


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