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Bolens 1053 Return to Service Project


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#316 stiemmy OFFLINE  

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Posted March 14, 2017 - 08:47 PM

The valves might be in spec stem diameter wise but some idiot (namely me) ground to much off the end of the stem the last time I set them and now they would be too short. Don't know of any way of adding to the length of the valves and do not want to cut the seat down any as they look to be in good shape. I have priced new valves and they appear to have dropped in price compared to the last time I price them a few years ago. Still have to get the engine block and parts cleaned up and sent off to a machine shop but it has gotten very cold here and not supposed to warm back up until the weekend.


Stew, just curious, were the seats bad ultimately causing you to shorten the stems after a seat reface?

Edited by stiemmy, March 14, 2017 - 08:48 PM.

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#317 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted March 15, 2017 - 07:32 AM

When I had the head off to remove carbon I figured that I would check the seats and once I had the valves out I decided I would give them a quick lap by hand with some fine compound which I did.  I then checked the clearance and came to the conclusion (wrongly) that the valves were a little tight (especially the exhaust) so I ground the ends a touch to shorten them to achieve what I thought was the proper clearance using a feeler gauge.  Lesson learned - sometimes it is best to leave things alone if they are working well. 


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#318 Dave in NY OFFLINE  

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Posted March 15, 2017 - 01:30 PM

How much off are your valve clearances? If only a few thousandths and there is still sufficient margin left at the top of the valve how about taking a light cut or grind on the face of the valve to lower it in the seat? This in effect makes the valve longer and maybe would get you back in spec. That is provided that the valves haven't been ground on much already,there by already reducing the margin  to where this wouldn't work. Taking a light grind on the seats would also do the same thing. I always hate to grind much on the seats myself. I usually only do that if they are pitted or worn badlly. Lots of times I have had very good results with just lapping the seats with compound after grinding a fresh face on the valve. If the seats are real bad its time for new inserts to be installed. From the pics yours don't look very bad. I hope I am not confusing you with all this. Maybe new valves are the best thing. I suppose you could put a button of weld on the end of the stem. Only thing is I have no clue what that would do the proper hardness of the stem and if it would even last. Redneck engineering for sure ! Probably ought to forget that idea ! Would work on a trailer queen -butt buggy. Clean up all your parts, pack them in a box and go to a reputable machine shop. Then its just a matter of getting out the checkbook when they are all done. With all the effort you have put into this tractor so far I presume you are going to work it. Go with what the machine shop sez. Bore the cylinder [new piston,rings],grind the crank[new con. rod], new valves [possibly new seats and springs] and a light surface cut on the head. A few seals and a gasket set and you have a brand new motor! I am NOT a motor expert and not even trying to sound like one. All I know is what I have learned often times the hard way over the years tinkering with small motors.I always cringe when I see blue RTV oozing out of the seams on a motor. Never know what went on inside and how much care went into the "work" Wow- I got on a roll there huh?


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#319 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted March 15, 2017 - 04:33 PM

Thanks for the input - I have priced the valves and was quoted $60.00 Canadian for the pair so I will probably go with new ones if the prices on the rest of the parts don't start me thinking Honda again - time will tell.  If it ever warms up here again I will get the block stripped and cleaned up and sent away to a machine shop but these days my seat time is pretty much in the house - got up to 25 degrees F today but the wind feels like it is blowing off a big iceburg out in the lake - burr.


Edited by 29 Chev, March 15, 2017 - 04:34 PM.

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#320 Dave in NY OFFLINE  

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Posted March 16, 2017 - 12:02 PM

You have taken the time and effort to do such a great job at bringing this tractor back to its original configuration. It sure would be nice to have the Wisconsin TRA10D on it, would be a very nice example of a Bolens of that period. You are giving a new life to an old classic.  But- a modern motor [more powerful] with a pressurized  oiling system and replaceable filter is nice to have too. I spent quite a few $$ going through a TRA12D on a 1256 years ago. It was a decent tractor but I ending up letting it go as I felt it was a bit under powered. The fellow I sold it to still uses it regularly. If I had done a re-power on it instead I might still be mowing with it. I hadn't been bitten by the Bolens bug yet at that time. You plan on using this for mowing,tilling, etc.? What ever direction you go will be OK. Your Honda re-power on the other tractor turned out great and must work quite well for you. I remember watching your thread on that one. Time for a diesel??


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#321 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted March 16, 2017 - 05:21 PM

Is that little clip from the dipstick? I think I remember seeing one on my TRA 12.

 

 

I never gave that a thought, its possible thats what it is!

I finally remembered to check the dipstick and the slot in the unidentified clip is a match for it so I would agree that is where it came from and fell off at some point in time - this time I forgot the camera to take a picture.


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#322 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted March 17, 2017 - 03:57 PM

I finally remembered to check the dipstick and the slot in the unidentified clip is a match for it so I would agree that is where it came from and fell off at some point in time - this time I forgot the camera to take a picture.

Today I took an extra dose of rememberitice and had the camera with me and took a couple of pictures of the dipstick and washer - I believe it is to keep the rubber boot under the metal cup in place and was held in place by staking on the dipstick - pictures attached.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Dipstick And Washer.jpg
  • 2 Dipstick And Washer.jpg

Edited by 29 Chev, March 17, 2017 - 03:57 PM.

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#323 Mark 149 J. OFFLINE  

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Posted March 17, 2017 - 04:16 PM

I think my Kohler has the same type of design.


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#324 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted March 17, 2017 - 04:52 PM

Today I took an extra dose of rememberitice and had the camera with me and took a couple of pictures of the dipstick and washer - I believe it is to keep the rubber boot under the metal cup in place and was held in place by staking on the dipstick - pictures attached.

I think you are correct!


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#325 Bud W OFFLINE  

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Posted March 20, 2017 - 11:22 AM

That's it! It looks like they were either spot welded or crimped on.


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#326 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted March 30, 2017 - 02:38 PM

With the seat for the HDT1000 on its way back to Kevin I figured I had better get back to getting the rest of the engine parts stripped off the Wisconsin and the block cleaned up.  I gave the block a good scrubbing and got rid of most of the dirt and gunge.  Once that was done I made a tool to drive the valve guides out from some 1/2" round stock and removed the guides - the exhaust guide took a bit more force than the intake to remove it but they both came out nicely.  Now I can box the block, piston, rod and crank up and ship them to the machine shop and see what they think my best option is to return the engine to service.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Starting Clean Up Of Block.jpg
  • 2 After Some Wire Brushing And Scrubbing.jpg
  • 3 After Some Wire Brushing And Scrubbing.jpg
  • 4 Made A Valve Guide Driver Tool.jpg
  • 5 Ready To Remove Exhasut Guide.jpg
  • 6 Exhaust Guide Moved.jpg
  • 7 Guides Removed.jpg
  • 8 Guides Removed.jpg
  • 9 Guides Removed.jpg

Edited by 29 Chev, March 30, 2017 - 04:10 PM.

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#327 Bruce Dorsi OFFLINE  

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Posted March 30, 2017 - 03:42 PM

There was some significance to the "1/2" stamped into the block surface, but my C.R.A.F.T. syndrome momentarily has taken the details from my mind.

 

I think it indicated the bore was on the high-side of tolerance, but others know for certain.


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#328 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted March 30, 2017 - 04:27 PM

There was some significance to the "1/2" stamped into the block surface, but my C.R.A.F.T. syndrome momentarily has taken the details from my mind.

 

I think it indicated the bore was on the high-side of tolerance, but others know for certain.

Looks like the "1/2" means that the block was bored .005" oversize if I am reading this thread correctly - http://gardentractor...n-tra10d-parts/  .

 

Interesting - that means I will probably have to get the block bored and go with a .010" oversize piston and rings and I am assuming I will have to have the crank ground and try and find a new .010" connecting rod.

:biting_nails:


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#329 Bolens 1000 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 30, 2017 - 07:07 PM

Does your piston have the 1/2 Stamped  in it?

 

When the Blocks were tested at the factory, ones that were out of tolerance were bored 1/2 over so they wouldnt go to waste, as far as I know the 1/2 Piston  & Rings were never available for resale once they left the factory.

 

The crank and Connecting rod still would have been standard size when leaving the plant.

 

Getting .010 Piston and Rod is no issue I should have both in stock  Or can order them in if need be.

Also stock the Valve guides too.


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#330 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted March 30, 2017 - 07:28 PM

Does your piston have the 1/2 Stamped  in it?

 

When the Blocks were tested at the factory, ones that were out of tolerance were bored 1/2 over so they wouldnt go to waste, as far as I know the 1/2 Piston  & Rings were never available for resale once they left the factory.

 

The crank and Connecting rod still would have been standard size when leaving the plant.

 

Getting .010 Piston and Rod is no issue I should have both in stock  Or can order them in if need be.

Also stock the Valve guides too.

The only number I see on the top of the piston is "1" - picture attached - the piston measures 3.115" at the skirt as near as I can tell using a digital Vernier caliper  - I would think that a stock piston should measure about 3.120" originally since they were a 3.125" (3-1/8") bore stock bore and the spec sheet shows a clearance of .004" - .0045".  The engine never made any noise that I noticed when it was running.

 

I may have to get back to you on the rod if I cannot get one in Canada - I checked with the chap at Mar Industrial and the way I understood his response was that the rod was only available in standard and .030" which I thought was strange - maybe I misunderstood the chap I talked to.  Good to know you have them in stock or can still get.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 20 Top Of Piston.jpg

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