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Bolens 1053 Return to Service Project


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#301 DH1 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 05, 2017 - 04:41 PM

 

 

I am not sure what I am going to use for a exhaust extension to the muffler (may try and get some 1-1/4" exhaust tubing from an automotive store and see if I can bend it to the S shape but will keep your offer in mind.

 

You could ??? make up what ever shape you need by welding together pipe fittings, 90s and 45s 


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#302 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted March 06, 2017 - 02:58 PM

Drove the two alignment pins back and remounted the flywheel - I had set the flywheel back on but found it was in the road to drive out the one alignment pin so it got removed until the pins were driven back.  I removed the old point set and undid the six bolts and removed the cover - expected the ball for the camshaft spring to fall out but it stayed stuck to the cover.  There was still a little bit of oil left in the engine so it dripped on to the cardboard box I had sitting on the drip tray and made a small puddle - better there than on the floor.  Pushed the ball sideways to break it free from the grease in the hole and then removed it and the spring in the camshaft.  I noticed there was lock tabs on the rod bolts and also found a small washer lock piece in the bottom of the engine - not sure what it was doing in there and don't see anything that resembles it in the parts list - wonder if it accidentally got dropped down the dipstick tube once upon a time. 

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Left Alignment Pin Driven Back.jpg
  • 2 Right Alignment Pin Driven Back.jpg
  • 3 Points Removed.jpg
  • 4 Flywheel Back On Crank.jpg
  • 5 Ready To Remove Cover.jpg
  • 6 Cover Removed.jpg
  • 7 Ball Stayed In Cover Recess For Camshaft.jpg
  • 8 Rear Crank Bearing Cup.jpg
  • 9 Engine Still Had A Little Oil Left In It.jpg
  • 10 Cam Crank And Governor.jpg
  • 11 Rear Crank Bearing Cone And Timing Marks.jpg
  • 12 Camshaft Spring And Ball.jpg
  • 13 Locks On Crank Bolts.jpg
  • 14 Found This In Bottom Of Engine.jpg

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#303 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted March 06, 2017 - 03:04 PM

Got the lock tabs bent back and got a wrench on the rod bolts and removed them and then pushed the piston up out of the cylinder bore.  I got a couple of small o rings from my o ring assortment and slid them onto the tappets and pushed the tappets up off the cam lobes with a flat screwdriver and then pushed the o rings down on the tappet stems to hold them out of the road while I removed the camshaft.  Then I removed the tappets and marked them with masking tape and had a look at the cylinder bore, piston skirt, rod and crank bearings surfaces.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Rod To Crank Surface.jpg
  • 2 Rod Cap Surface.jpg
  • 3 Valve Side Of Piston.jpg
  • 4 Other SIde Of Piston.jpg
  • 5 O Rings Slid On To Tappets.jpg
  • 6 Camshaft Removed.jpg
  • 7 Tappets Pushed Up Out Of Way To Remove Camshaft.jpg
  • 8 Tappets Held Up WIth O Rings.jpg
  • 9 Cylinder Bore.jpg
  • 10 Tappets Marked.jpg
  • 11 Tappet Faces.jpg
  • 12 Crankshaft Removed.jpg
  • 13 Crank Journal.jpg
  • 14 Crank Journal.jpg
  • 15 Front Bearing Plate And Seal.jpg

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#304 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted March 06, 2017 - 03:08 PM

Once I had that done I pulled on the governor gear to pop it over the internal C clip that holds it on and removed it and also the push rod for the points.  Then I undid the screw that held the reed valve in place underneath the valves and removed it as well.  Will have to do some measuring to see how bad things are wore and go from there.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Governor Gear.jpg
  • 2 Push Rod For Points Removed.jpg
  • 3 Governor Gear Removed.jpg
  • 4 Reed Valve Removed.jpg
  • 5 Reed Valve Removed.jpg
  • 6 Reed Valve Removed.jpg
  • 7 Governor Shaft.jpg

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#305 Bolens 1000 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 06, 2017 - 03:11 PM

Looks like your making good progress!

Never seen that little washer tab in any of these Wisconsins!

Must have dropped down the hole!??


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#306 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted March 06, 2017 - 05:51 PM

That's what those look like inside!


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#307 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted March 06, 2017 - 05:54 PM

Did a few measurements and looks like the cylinder has not been bored - measures 3.125" about 1" from the bottom and 3.128" at the top.  The piston skirt measures 3.115 so there is definitely some wear on the piston.  Measured the crank diameter where the rod goes and at the outer edges it measures 1.376" on one side and 1.375" on the other but if you move in about 1/8" from either end it measures 1.373" and in the centre area it is only 1.370" so the crank is worn in the centre area as I believe it should measure the same all the way across.  Will have to consult with a machine shop and get their opinion on things and see what my options are and then with my banker.   :angel:


Edited by 29 Chev, March 11, 2017 - 02:41 PM.

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#308 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted March 06, 2017 - 05:55 PM

That's what those look like inside!

They look even nicer inside when all the parts are cleaned up!


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#309 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted March 06, 2017 - 06:02 PM

:watch_over_fence:  I'll keep an eye on things here!


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#310 Bruce Dorsi OFFLINE  

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Posted March 06, 2017 - 08:10 PM

Did a few measurements and looks like the cylinder has not been bored - measures 3.125' about 1" from the bottom and 3.128" at the top.  The piston skirt measures 3.115 so there is definitely some wear on the piston.  Measured the crank diameter where the rod goes and at the outer edges it measures 1.376" on one side and 1.375" on the other but if you move in about 1/8" from either end it measures 1.373" and in the centre area it is only 1.370" so the crank is worn in the centre area as I believe it should measure the same all the way across.  Will have to consult with a machine shop and get their opinion on things and see what my options are and then with my banker.   :angel:

 

I think the Wisconsin pistons are cam-ground, so the measurements need to be taken from the thrust surfaces, but I'm sure you knew that.

 

Wisconsins are GREAT until you have to buy parts for them !!   Ouch !!!


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#311 Bud W ONLINE  

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Posted March 10, 2017 - 11:17 AM

Is that little clip from the dipstick? I think I remember seeing one on my TRA 12.


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#312 Bolens 1000 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 10, 2017 - 11:24 AM

Is that little clip from the dipstick? I think I remember seeing one on my TRA 12.

 

I never gave that a thought, its possible thats what it is!


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#313 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted March 10, 2017 - 06:26 PM

Is that little clip from the dipstick? I think I remember seeing one on my TRA 12.

 

 

I never gave that a thought, its possible thats what it is!

 

I was wondering the same thing as I know someone put a spot of bronze on the cup on the dipstick that goes over the top of the dipstick tube - keep meaning to check when I go out to the shop but keep forgetting ( at least I still remember where the shop is).  


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#314 Dave in NY OFFLINE  

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Posted March 13, 2017 - 02:38 PM

There is some NOS pistons, rings and connecting rods for the TRA10D engines listed on E-bay rite now. Usually if you watch long enough parts like this show up there. The .020 over piston and ring set might be just what you need. Also standard sizes of both listed too. Would save you some money over buying from a bigger parts distributor. You have something like .003 taper in the cylinder? Have seen motors with about that or more that ran fine. I would make a WAG that your valves might be in spec yet, just the guides worn. New guides are easy to do. You could make a driver tool on your lathe real easy.


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#315 29 Chev ONLINE  

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Posted March 13, 2017 - 05:17 PM

I would make a WAG that your valves might be in spec yet, just the guides worn.

The valves might be in spec stem diameter wise but some idiot (namely me) ground to much off the end of the stem the last time I set them and now they would be too short.  Don't know of any way of adding to the length of the valves and do not want to cut the seat down any as they look to be in good shape.  I have priced new valves and they appear to have dropped in price compared to the last time I price them a few years ago.  Still have to get the engine block and parts cleaned up and sent off to a machine shop but it has gotten very cold here and not supposed to warm back up until the weekend.


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