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Bolens 1053 Return to Service Project


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#286 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted February 28, 2017 - 04:15 PM

Found a can of Duplicolor chrome I have had for a while and decided to spray the cap with it to see how it would look - did the back side first to make sure it didn't try and eat the plastic.  It appeared to be ok so I did the front side.  Got some dirt in the finish (perhaps the paint was too old and has probably been frozen once or twice) and then installed it instead of letting it dry for a few days so I smudged the finish a bit - I think it looks not to bad but I will probably have to repaint it after it dries for a while to get a nicer finish.  I also made four new engine spacers in the lathe using one from the 1050 as a sample, (marked down the measurements in case someone needs to know the size of them in the future), and gave them a coat of paint.  I also checked out the ammeter and the ignition switch that I removed from the dash with a ohm meter - they both appear to function ok so I cleaned up the ammeter, bracket, switch nut and washer and gave them a coat of silver metallic paint so they won't rust much for a while and put a few drops of oil in the keyhole of the switch for lubrication.   

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Duplicolor Chrome.jpg
  • 2 Test Sprayed Back SIde First.jpg
  • 3 Top Side Sprayed.jpg
  • 4 Got Some Dirt In It.jpg
  • 5 Cap On Wheel.jpg
  • 6 Cap On Wheel.jpg
  • 6.5 Cap On Wheel.jpg
  • 7 Made Four Engine Spacers.jpg
  • 8 Engine Spacers Painted.jpg
  • 9 SIze Of Engine Spacers In Inches.jpg
  • 10 Ammeter  And Ignition Switch.jpg
  • 11 Ammeter  And Ignition Switch.jpg
  • 12 Ammeter Bracket And Switch Nut And Washer Sprayed SIlver Met.jpg

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#287 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted February 28, 2017 - 04:22 PM

Nice progress!


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#288 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted March 01, 2017 - 07:24 PM

Been working on adapting my engine stand to accept a small engine mounted on it - http://gardentractor...ll-gas-engines/ .  Got the adaptor made to the point that I could test it out today so I dug out the TRA10D off of my 1050 and mounted it on the stand.  Got the engine partially taken apart and then called it a day - attached are some pictures.  Will strip the engine down and see how worn things are - may use this temporarily on the 1053 which is why I am posting it in this thread.  Thought I was doing a good job of keeping crud out of the cooling fins but as you can see it does accumulate above the dipstick area.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Engine On Stand.jpg
  • 2 Used Spacers From 1050.jpg
  • 3 Engine On Stand.jpg
  • 4 Oil Drained.jpg
  • 5 Carb And Intake Removed.jpg
  • 6 Front Pulley And Valve Cover Removed.jpg
  • 7 Valve Cover Removed.jpg
  • 8 Points Cover Removed.jpg
  • 9 Front Shroud Removed.jpg
  • 10 Dirt In Cooling Fins.jpg
  • 11 Dirt In Cooling Fins.jpg
  • 12 Head Removed.jpg
  • 13 Valves And Piston.jpg
  • 14 As Far As I Got.jpg

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#289 Mark 149 J. OFFLINE  

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Posted March 02, 2017 - 12:11 AM

Looks like it worked great!


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#290 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted March 04, 2017 - 06:09 PM

Looks like it worked great!

So far it has worked great to hold the engine - got a few more pieces removed today.

 

Removed the valves with a valve spring compressor - used a large flat screw driver to hold the end of the valve spring up at the outer edge of the rotocap and hit the lifted valve with a short 2x4 to break the keepers free.  Then I compressed the spring and used two flat screwdrivers to push on each side of the valve locks to get then out of the groove in the valve.  Once they fell down I used a magnet to pull them out and put them as well as the springs, rotocaps and locating cups in two separate small boxes marked intake and exhaust to keep them from getting mixed up.   Once the valve springs were removed I checked the valve clearance and confirmed that I am an idiot sometimes.  The exhaust had .020" and the intake .010" which is a little on the large side - I had pulled the head several years ago to remove the carbon and decided while I had the head off it would be a good time to check the valves and touch up the seats and valves with valve grinding compound which I did.  I then checked the clearance and somehow reached the conclusion that they were too tight and ground a bit off each valve to set them as per the book but I am thinking I did not have the camshaft in the correct location when I did this - explains why I always thought the engine didn't have as much power as I thought it should afterwards - live and learn.  The valve stem diameters are within spec but they are sloppy in the guides so I am thinking the guides are worn.   Once the valves were removed I cleaned the carbon off of the top of the piston and then found a 1-1/2" socket and swing bar from the 3/4" drive socket set and got ready to break the nut loose.  As per the manual I held the flywheel with a gloved hand and hit the swing bar to break the nut loose - I used a 2x4 that was about 20" long to hit the swing bar with.  Once the nut was loose I threaded it off and removed the star washer and then threaded the nut back on flush with the end of the crank.  I got three 1/4" x 2" UNC bolts and went to pull the flywheel and had a "I remember this problem" moment as the puller was not big enough - it occurred to me that I had encountered this problem about five years ago when I pulled a flywheel on a TRA12D.  I used the pry bar method on the TRA12D but this time I decided to make three 2" extensions out of some 1-1/4" x 1/4" angle iron - I figured the little bit the puller needed to extend would not put undue strain on it given the fact that the bolts were only 1/4" diameter going into the flywheel.  Once I had the extensions made and drilled I mounted them onto the puller and pulled the flywheel - it popped off the taper but was still stubborn to get off - had to wiggle it and tap it with a short length of 2x4  to get it off.  I noticed that there is some rust on the taper inside the flywheel and on the crank around the key- I am thinking that it has not been off for quite a while and I am thinking the key will be fun to get out of the crank.  I used a punch on the lock nut for the exhaust pipe and I was surprised that it turned loose - no such luck with the exhaust pipe which will probably require heat to get it to turn.  The shop was cooling off as I only cycled the furnace once so I called it a day.   

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Inch And A Half Socket And Swing Bar.jpg
  • 2 2 x 4 To Hit Swing Bar.jpg
  • 3 Held Flywheel With Gloved Hand.jpg
  • 4 Carbon Scraped Off Piston.jpg
  • 5 Valve Springs Removed.jpg
  • 6 Valves Removed.jpg
  • 7 Valves Removed.jpg
  • 8 Quarter Inch Bolt In Flywheel.jpg
  • 9 Uh Oh Puller Not Big Enough.jpg
  • 10 Angle Iron Extensions.jpg
  • 11 Ready To Pull Flywheel.jpg
  • 12 Ready To Pull Flywheel.jpg
  • 13 Puller Removed.jpg
  • 14 Nut And Washer Removed.jpg
  • 15 Flywheel Removed.jpg
  • 16 Rust On Taper.jpg
  • 17 Rust At Keyway.jpg
  • 18 Exhaust Lock Nut Loosened.jpg

Edited by 29 Chev, March 04, 2017 - 06:09 PM.

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#291 stiemmy OFFLINE  

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Posted March 04, 2017 - 07:36 PM

Got tell ya 29Chevy, that is a wonderful idea using that engine stand!!
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#292 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted March 04, 2017 - 07:44 PM

Got tell ya 29Chevy, that is a wonderful idea using that engine stand!!

It saves chasing the engine all over a work bench and when I drop things (as I usually do) they seem to end up sitting on the tray rather than gravity having its usual effect which would send them down to the floor - may have to start bending over exercises to maintain my not so trim figure if I don't have to bend over as often to pick up tools and parts.  :rolling:  


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#293 stiemmy OFFLINE  

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Posted March 04, 2017 - 07:49 PM

It saves chasing the engine all over a work bench and when I drop things (as I usually do) they seem to end up sitting on the tray rather than gravity having its usual effect which would send them down to the floor - may have to start bending over exercises to maintain my not so trim figure if I don't have to bend over as often to pick up tools and parts. :rolling:

That tray is another great idea!!! That would come in handy if you accidentally dropped sockets. We all know those little boogers can roll into some really hard to get to areas.

Bending over exercises sound like work. Lol

Edited by stiemmy, March 04, 2017 - 07:51 PM.

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#294 Bruce Dorsi OFFLINE  

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Posted March 04, 2017 - 07:57 PM

 ... I then checked the clearance and somehow reached the conclusion that they were too tight and ground a bit off each valve to set them as per the book but I am thinking I did not have the camshaft in the correct location when I did this - explains why I always thought the engine didn't have as much power as I thought it should afterwards - live and learn. 

 

I have seen this many times, so you are not alone!

 

The fool-proof method is to set/adjust the exhaust valve clearance while the intake valve is fully raised.  ....The intake valve clearance is done with the exhaust valve fully raised.

 

This method eliminates any valve overlap in the cam timing and negates most compression release mechanisms. 

 

Looking at your pics posted previously, I am intrigued by the device mounted on the front of the flywheel cover and the double front pulley.  ....Please enlighten me.   (Crank-trigger ignition?)


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#295 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted March 04, 2017 - 08:18 PM

Looking at your pics posted previously, I am intrigued by the device mounted on the front of the flywheel cover and the double front pulley.  ....Please enlighten me.   (Crank-trigger ignition?)

You are very observant and correct - it is a GM crankshaft sensor.  If you notice in picture 3 of post #288 there is a second pulley added on to the front of the original pulley as you stated - the starter generator had a bad spot in the armature when my brother owned it and as a result it would still charge a little bit but did not have enough power to start the engine so he added the second pulley (I believe he said it came of an old VW engine) so he could start it with a rope but did not have to remove the generator belt (when I got it I replaced the armature after checking it out with a growler that my dad had made many years ago when generators were used on cars and trucks) but left the extra pulley on as it came in handy if you blew a generator belt (does that make a mess of a headlight and wiring sometimes).  I welded a little piece of 1/4" round stock steel on to the appropriate spot to act as a trigger for the sensor and had the engine converted to electronic ignition as shown on this site - http://gardentractor...om/ignelect.htm .  I used the Chrysler set up and a ballast resistor and it worked well - the sensor bracket is slotted so it can be adjusted a little bit and I set the timing using a timing light with the engine running - the spark plug fired once every revolution like a Harley does.


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#296 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted March 05, 2017 - 03:50 PM

Tried to remove the key using conventional methods - a punch to roll it out and a chisel to catch it at the front lip to start it to roll but it was quite happy to remain in its home where it has probably been for almost 50 years.  I also tried using vise grips to grab on to the sides and also to catch the inner end with the other jaw on the side of the crank nut but it soon became obvious that I was not going to be able to save the key so I removed the motor off of the stand and carried it over to the other shop where the welder was - even without the flywheel that thing is still heavy in my opinion.  Once there I welded a piece of 1/8" x 3/4" x 1-3/4" long piece of steel to the top of the key so it extended past the end of the key at each end and left a gap to get a pry bar under.  Used a pry bar against a flat on the crank nut and the key moved and came out.  While I was there I decided it would be a good time to remove the exhaust pipe from the exhaust port.  Heated the nipple up but it did not want to turn so I used the air chisel to collapse the pipe in one spot and then turned it out using a pipe wrench - I did mange to undo the elbow from the nipple while I was trying to get the nipple to turn.  Carried the motor back over and remounted it on the stand and then squirted some oil into the exhaust port threads and worked a new pipe nipple in and out a few times with a pair of vise grips to try and clean up the threads so I could make sure they weren't damaged.  The threads look like they should be ok so I should be able to put the flywheel back on and remove the rear cover to check out the bottom end next.      

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Key Stuck.jpg
  • 2 Flat Steel Welded On To Key.jpg
  • 3 Flat Steel Welded On To Key.jpg
  • 4 Pry Bar To Lift End.jpg
  • 5 Lifted With Pry Bar.jpg
  • 6 Key Removed.jpg
  • 7 Key Removed.jpg
  • 8 Rust In Rey Seat.jpg
  • 9 Air Chisel Used To Collapse Pipe.jpg
  • 10 Pipe Removed.jpg
  • 11 Pipe Removed.jpg
  • 12 Oil In Threads.jpg
  • 13 Threads After Working New Pipe Nipple In And Out A Few Times.jpg
  • 14 New Pipe Nipple.jpg

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#297 Bolens 1000 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 05, 2017 - 03:58 PM

Good job!

Glad I'm not the only one who experienced a bad day with "mr woodruff" on these cranks! 

They can be a real PITA!

 

I dont know if your going for 100% original but I do have one New OEM "S" shaped muffler elbow for these engines I could part with if you need it.


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#298 Bolens800uk OFFLINE  

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Posted March 05, 2017 - 03:59 PM

Good technique on prising that stubborn key. Ingenuity is the name of the game on these old ladies.
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#299 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted March 05, 2017 - 04:13 PM

Thanks - I researched a few machinists forums on removing woodruff keys and the consensus seemed to be that woodruff keys were a PITA and should be banned so I did not feel too bad on not being able to save it - looks like it is just a standard #18 woodruff key from the parts listing.  I would much rather sacrifice a woodruff key than damage the key seat in the crank.

 

I am not sure what I am going to use for a exhaust extension to the muffler (may try and get some 1-1/4" exhaust tubing from an automotive store and see if I can bend it to the S shape but will keep your offer in mind.


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#300 Bolens 1000 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 05, 2017 - 04:22 PM

Another thing you may be able to make work is the Wisconsin 45* pipe, I carry these as they were used on a few wisconsin appliactions

 

DSCN5889.JPG


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