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Bolens 1053 Return to Service Project


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#16 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted October 26, 2016 - 06:01 PM

More pictures of things being removed.  Someone had added an extra front axle support so that the PTO unit would line up with the engine I assume - they welded it to the square tubing along the sides so I used the die grinder to cut the welds.  Got things pretty well apart and I hope to get the cover off of the transmission soon to have a look at the condition of the components.  I used a centre punch to mark a "L" and "R" on the frame tubes where they clamp to the side of the transmission so I know which one goes where.  Looks like the axle pivot pin is seized in the front axle and the brake plate and clutch pulley will need new lining - kinda what I expected so far.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Extra Axle Support Welded To Tubing.jpg
  • 2 Weld Cut With Die Grinder.jpg
  • 3 Extra Axle Support Removed.jpg
  • 4 Starting To Slide Transmission Housing Back.jpg
  • 5 Starting To Slide Transmission Housing Back.jpg
  • 6 Transmission Removed.jpg
  • 7 Steering Column Removed.jpg
  • 8 Main Support Removed.jpg
  • 9 Main Support Removed.jpg
  • 10 Right Frame Tube Marked With Centre Punch.jpg
  • 11 Left Frame Tube Marked.jpg

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#17 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted October 28, 2016 - 03:29 PM

Started working on the transmission today.  Removed the top cover and with the help of two floor jacks got it mounted to the engine stand I use -  it raises the transmission higher so I don't have to bend over as far and also allows me to rotate the transmission which helps when removing and installing parts.  I ran a 5/16-18 tap through the bolt holes in the transmission as some of them were a little stiff coming out. The 15 tooth gear on the three gear cluster has some damage from the gears being ground while shifting and the right rear hub has the ear broken off where the locking pin goes.  I was surprised that the right hub slid right off as usually they are snug from rust and gunge.  The hub has a crack where the axle keyway is which is not uncommon and it looks like someone has had this apart before as the shifter forks are numbered.  I use plastic dishes with the sealable lids to put the nuts, bolts and small parts in and put a piece of scrap cardboard underneath where I am working to catch the dirt and set parts on as I find it makes cleaning up the floor easier.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Transmission Supported With Jack.jpg
  • 2 Container To Hold Nuts Bolts Etc.jpg
  • 3 Damage To 15 Tooth Gear On Cluster.jpg
  • 4 Someones Had This Apart Before I Think.jpg
  • 5 Cleaning Up Transmssion Case Threads.jpg
  • 6 Transmission Mounted On Engine Stand.jpg
  • 7 Drained Gear Lube.jpg
  • 8 Chain Vise Grips Around Hub To Keep From Turning.jpg
  • 9 Adjustable Wrench To Use On Axle Nuts.jpg
  • 10 Axle Nut Removed And Hub Loose On Shaft.jpg
  • 11 Cardboard Box To Catch Dirt Makes Floor Clean Up Easier.jpg
  • 12 Hub Removed.jpg
  • 13 Broken Ear On Hub.jpg

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#18 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted October 28, 2016 - 03:36 PM

Removed the left axle nut as well and removed the left hub.  The locking nut and wave washers are missing but I got parts of a 1050 transmission when I got this tractor and I think the nut is still on it.  The left part of the axle appears to have hot spots where the hub turns - perhaps someone ran it with low fluid level and it stopped getting lubricated there??  Then I called it a day and put a piece of cardboard over the top to keep dirt out and rolled it off out of the way.  Will have to start working on cleaning things up and ordering some parts. 

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Left Axle Nut Removed.jpg
  • 2 Cardboard Catches Dirt And Grease.jpg
  • 3 Left Hub Removed.jpg
  • 4 Left Hub And Bronze Collar.jpg
  • 5 Hot Spots On Axle From Low Gear Level Perhaps.jpg
  • 6 Piece Of Cardboard To Cover Top Of Transmission.jpg

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#19 Bruce Dorsi ONLINE  

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Posted October 28, 2016 - 04:01 PM

Smart use of your engine stand !!   :thumbs:

 

That's the first time I have seen a screw used to retain the free-wheeling pin in place, but it works.  ...Would be even better if the pin had corresponding grooves to accept the screw.


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#20 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted October 29, 2016 - 07:17 PM

Smart use of your engine stand !!   :thumbs:

 

That's the first time I have seen a screw used to retain the free-wheeling pin in place, but it works.  ...Would be even better if the pin had corresponding grooves to accept the screw.

Thanks for the comment on the use of the engine stand Bruce - it makes working on the transmission very easy.  First time I have seen a screw used to hold the free wheeling pin as well - like you say a grove in the pin would work better.  I hope to repair the tab on the hub and put it back the way it was originally with the clip to hold the pin in place.


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#21 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted October 29, 2016 - 07:31 PM

Today I decided to get rid of some of the grease and dirt on the transmission case - used various wire brushes in the electric drill and then a small flat screwdriver to clean out the crud in the tight spots.  Then I used a small hand wire brush and an old tooth brush with some varsol to get rid of most of the grease.  Looks a lot cleaner and will make working on it more pleasant.

 

Then I used an axle stand, some blocks of wood and a couple of pieces of scrap steel to support the brake drum and drove out the roll pin that holds the drum on.  Then I used a puller to remove the brake drum - it was tight on the shaft but it did move without having to heat the drum.  Had to use four 1/4" nuts as spacers to pull the drum as the drum kept bottoming out on the puller screw - add a nut, pull the drum till it bottomed out and then loosen the puller and add another nut.  Once the brake drum was off I cleaned up the area behind it with the wire brush and some more varsol and then called it a day.  Looks like a driveshaft from a tiller may have rubbed the bottom of the right axle housing at one time.   

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Transmission Cleaned Up.jpg
  • 2 Transmission Cleaned Up.jpg
  • 3 Transmission Cleaned Up.jpg
  • 4 Transmission Cleaned Up.jpg
  • 5 Transmssion Cleaned Up.jpg
  • 6 Axle Stand To Support Brake Drum.jpg
  • 7 Ready To Remove Roll Pin In Brake Drum.jpg
  • 8 Roll Pin Removed.jpg
  • 9 Puller Removing Brake Drum.jpg
  • 10 Nuts Inside Brake Drum.jpg
  • 11 Brake Drum Removed.jpg
  • 12 Wear Mark Where Driveshaft Has Rubbed On Housing.jpg

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#22 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted November 01, 2016 - 06:19 PM

Removed some parts out of the transmission today.  First I removed the roll pins in the shift forks - place a rag underneath the fork to catch the roll pin and then retrieved them with a magnet.  Then I removed the allen screw for the hi lo detent and then the spring and ball.  Then I slid the shift shaft out the front.  Next came the first reverse shift shaft - slid a short piece of round stock in the rear as I removed it to hold the detent ball in place.  Then I placed a rag at the front of the bore and slowly slid the round stock back to release the ball and retrieved it with a magnet.  Slid the round stock ahead again to block the hole and removed the second third shift rail - slid a small deep socket in the rear as I removed it to trap the outer detent ball.  Made sure the rag was again in place to catch things and removed the outer allen screw.  Then I slid the socket back and went in through the allen screw hole with a small magnetized screw driver to get the outer detent ball.  Once it was removed I went back in with the screwdriver to get the pin and spring but instead found another ball.  Removed it and then I was able to remove the pin and spring.  I will have to verify the pin is the correct length as I assume someone lost the original and put a shorter pin in and then added the extra ball as I believe there should only be two balls, the pin and the spring. 

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Rag Under Shifter To Catch Roll Pin.jpg
  • 2 Magnet To Retreive Roll Pin.jpg
  • 3 Removing Allen Screw For Hi Lo Detent.jpg
  • 4 Detent Spring And Ball Removed.jpg
  • 5 Hi Lo Shift Rail Removed.jpg
  • 6 First Reverse Rail Slid Forward And Round Stock Slid In To Hold Detent Ball.jpg
  • 7 Rag To Catch Ball.jpg
  • 8 Detent Ball Ready To Be Grabbed With Magnet.jpg
  • 9 Second Yhird Shift Rail Slid Ahead ANd Socket Inserted To Hold Ball.jpg
  • 10 Detent Balls Springs And Pin.jpg

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#23 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted November 01, 2016 - 06:44 PM

With the shifter rails out of the road I attempted to remove the two snap rings that retain the gears on the rear of the input shaft and the Hi Lo shaft.  I love these two little snap rings as they are usually coated with enough gear lube that the tangs of the snap ring pliers slip off just before the snap rings spread large enough to slide off the shaft.  Finally got the one on the Hi Lo shaft off and ended up stretching the one on the input shaft with a large flat screwdriver wedged in between the ears and then pried on the ears to force it over the shaft will have to replace it with a new one when I reassemble things.  Next I removed the input shaft seal using a sheet metal screw and vise grips to get it popped out a bit and then I drove in on the side of it with a large flat screw driver to collapse it a little and then it came right out of the hole.  I then removed the input shaft and the front bearing snap ring which allowed the bearing to move forward enough to remove the three gear cluster.  Next I fished out the thrust washers - one at the front and one at the rear.  The input shaft bearing appears to have moisture damage and is rusty looking and feels rough so I will have to see if I can get a replacement. I put the end of the input shaft back inside the bearing and then wiggled it sideways while pushing from the rear with my fingers to walk the bearing out of the transmission bore.  Once it was out I removed the inner snap ring to make sure it was in good shape and make cleaning the bore easier. 

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Snap Rings And Gears Removed From Rear Of Input Shaft And Hi Lo Shaft.jpg
  • 2 Gears And Shift Rails.jpg
  • 3 Small Hole Drilled In Input Shaft Seal.jpg
  • 4 Sheet Metal Screw Threaded Intp Hole.jpg
  • 5 Vise Grips Clamped On To Screw.jpg
  • 6 Pried Against Vise Grips And Seal Starting To Come Out.jpg
  • 7 Drove Seal In On Side And Easily Removed From Hole.jpg
  • 8 Bearing Looks Rusty.jpg
  • 9 Removing Input Shaft.jpg
  • 10 Three Gear Cluster No Longer Supported By Shaft.jpg
  • 11 Removing Input Shaft Bearing Front Snap Ring.jpg
  • 12 Three Gear Cluster Removed Revealing Rear Thrust Washer.jpg
  • 13 Front Thrust Washer.jpg
  • 14 Walking Front Input Shaft Bearing Out With Help Of Input Shaft.jpg
  • 15 Inner Snap Ring Removed To Aid In Cleanup.jpg

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#24 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted November 01, 2016 - 06:50 PM

Given the condition of the input shaft bearing I decided to remove the expansion plug in the front of the transmission case that covers the Hi Lo shaft bearing - used the same method as I used to remove the seal.  Then I removed the front snap ring and slid the front bearing out of the transmission which allowed me easier access to the snap ring that is on the shaft behind the Hi Lo gear cluster.  Once the snap ring was removed I slid the shaft out of the cluster and out of the transmission and then removed the two gear cluster and put it back on the shaft along with the snap ring.  The front bearing for the Hi Lo shaft appears to be in good condition but I may replace it as well.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Hole Drilled In Expansion Plug.jpg
  • 2 Screw Threaded Into Hole.jpg
  • 3 Vise Grips Clamped On.jpg
  • 4 Prying Against Vise Grip Jaws With Large FLat Screw Driver.jpg
  • 5 Expansion Plug Removed.jpg
  • 6 Front Hi Lo Bearing Not As Rusty Looking.jpg
  • 7 Hi Lo Shaft Removed With Snap Ring And Hi Lo Cluster Reinstalled.jpg
  • 8 Hi Lo Shaft Removed.jpg

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#25 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted November 01, 2016 - 07:09 PM

I decided I would remove the output shaft so I could check the condition of the bearings that it runs on as well.  Removed the three bolts that hold the rear bearing cap and tried to get it to move by tapping on the inside edge of the cap with a short piece of 2" x 2" oak - got it to move a little bit but it did not want to leave its happy home without a fight.  Sprayed some WD 40 around the outside of the cap hoping it would work its way onto the O-ring and lubricate things.  Once the bearing cap moved a little bit I was able to rotate the shims and work a screwdriver in between the ears of the cap and the case in hopes that it would come out a little more but I broke part of one of the ears - Oops.  I then tried gently driving on the ear sideways and finally got the bearing cap to turn - once it had been turned back and forth about an eight of a turn a few times it finally came loose and out of the bore - looks like there was a rust ring around the bore where the O-ring sat.  The bearings looked good once I got the output shaft removed.  Flipped the transmission up ninety degrees and removed the bottom cover plate and the roll pin that retains the pin that the reverse idler gear runs on.  Removed the pin and the gear and the two thrust washers - one on each side.  The bronze gear has some wear on the teeth on one side but it will probably outlast me.    

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Broke Ear On Rear Bearing Retainer.jpg
  • 2 Rust Inside Bore.jpg
  • 3 Bearing Cup Looks Good.jpg
  • 4 Removed Lower Cover Plate.jpg
  • 5 Reverse Pin Roll Pin Removed.jpg
  • 6 Bronze Gear Worn Slightly On One Side.jpg
  • 7 Reverse Idler Gear Removed.jpg
  • 8 Tray Of Parts.jpg

Edited by 29 Chev, November 01, 2016 - 07:09 PM.

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#26 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted November 02, 2016 - 05:37 PM

I debated about removing the rear axle but when I checked the two screws that hold the drive hub and found I could turn them by hand I decided to remove things so I could have a good look at the bearings and parts to make sure they were OK - I had never had an axle out of a tube frame transmission so I wasn't sure how much "fun" I was going to have but things went pretty smoothly.  Once I removed the locking wire from the head of the two screws I found that I could turn them about 1/4 turn and then they got too tight to turn by hand.  Tried using a 3/8" wrench but it was a bit too long (not much room inside the case)  so I grabbed a 12MM 6 point 3/8" drive socket (gotta love metric) and put an extension in the 12MM end and used the 3/8" drive end to slip over the screws and removed them.  Once they were out I removed the left axle nut, cone and hub and tapped the left end of the axle with a block of wood and the axle slid out to the right to reveal the key which I then removed with a pair of needle nose pliers.  Then I rotated the transmission on the engine stand ninety degrees and slid the axle out the rest of the way.  The hub slid off the top of the bevel gear but stayed inside the transmission and everything else stayed put as the axle slid up.  

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Hub Screws Removed.jpg
  • 2 12MM Socket Turned Backwards.jpg
  • 3 Ratchet And Extensions.jpg
  • 4 Axle Slid Towards Right.jpg
  • 5 Hub Key Revealed.jpg
  • 6 Hub Key Removed From Axle.jpg
  • 7 Transmission Rotated Ready To Remove Axle.jpg
  • 8 With Transmission Rotated Hub And Gears Should Stay In Case.jpg
  • 9 Axle Removed.jpg

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#27 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted November 02, 2016 - 05:41 PM

With the axle out I removed the right bevel gear, bronze gear, left bevel gear and the left inner thrust bearing and thrust washers.  This left the inner case pretty much bare except for the needle bearings and the front bearing cup for the output shaft and the bronze bushing that the left hand hub rides on.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Hub Removed.jpg
  • 2 Hub.jpg
  • 3 Bronze Gear And Right Bevel Gear Removed.jpg
  • 4 Left Bevel Gear.jpg
  • 5 Left Bevel Gear With Thrust Washer Removed.jpg
  • 6 Left Inner Thrust Bearing.jpg
  • 7 Left Inner Thrust Bearing Removed.jpg
  • 8 Left Inner Thrust Washer.jpg
  • 9 Thrust Washer Set On Thrust Bearing On Bevel Gear.jpg
  • 10 Left Inner Transmission Case.jpg

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#28 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted November 02, 2016 - 05:52 PM

Then I rotated the transmission back down and removed the axle seals and the left outer thrust bearing and thrust washers.  A word of caution if you ever have the left hub slide out on the axle more than 1/4" do not try and force it back in as the outer thrust washers and bearing may fall down and get trapped in between the case and the left axle seal as shown in picture 1.  If they do and you try and force the hub back in you will probably damage the thrust washers or bearings - remove the hub and set them back up where they belong against the bronze bushing with a small screwdriver and the hub should go back in nice and smoothly.  Once the left outer seal was removed I removed the outer thrust washers and bearing and had a good look at the right needle bearing and the left bronze bushing.  The needle bearing looks good and while the bronze bushing has some marks in it the hub is a nice snug fit so it should outlast me.  With the case open I used a tooth brush and some varsol to scrub the inside of the case and then I gave it a good flushing with water.  Then I blew it out with compressed air and used an oil can and lubricated all the bores and bearing with fresh oil to keep them from rusting and called it a day.  

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Left Outer Thrust Washers And Bearing Held In By Seal.jpg
  • 2 Right Outer Seal Removed.jpg
  • 3 Left Outer Seal And Thrust Bearing And Washers Removed.jpg
  • 4 Left Outer Thrust Washers And Bearing Removed.jpg
  • 5 Parts In Tray.jpg
  • 6 Bronze Bushing Left Hub Rides On.jpg
  • 7 Inside Of Case Cleaned Up.jpg
  • 8 Left Bushing.jpg
  • 9 Transmission Case Cleaned Up And Surfaces Oiled.jpg

Edited by 29 Chev, November 02, 2016 - 07:32 PM.

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#29 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted November 03, 2016 - 04:22 PM

I decided to build up the worn area of the transmission case on the bottom - it will give it some strength and will also provide a new surface if something happens to rub on it again. Ground the two areas to clean then up and then built them up with the mig welder.  Once they were built up I used the die grinder and sander to clean the welds up.

 

Since I had the welder set up I decided to repair the left inner hub as it had a crack where the keyway is.  Ground out the crack and then welded it with the mig welder - I left the hub on the axle shaft to minimize distortion while I was welding it - the hub was a loose fit on the axle but did shrink a little from the welding - was able to tap it to get it to move and then I turned it to get it off the axle once things had cooled. Used the die grinder and sander to shape the weld to where the outer hub would slide back over and rotate without binding.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Worn Areas.jpg
  • 2 Areas Ground To Clean Up.jpg
  • 3 Areas Filled Up With Weld.jpg
  • 4 Welds Gound Down.jpg
  • 5 Welds Ground Down.jpg
  • 6 Burnt Primer Off Inside Of Case Where I Welded.jpg
  • 7 Right Hub Cracked At Keyway.jpg
  • 8 Crack Ground Out.jpg
  • 9 Hub Welded.jpg
  • 10 Weld Ground Down.jpg
  • 11 Weld Ground Down.jpg

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#30 Austen ONLINE  

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Posted November 03, 2016 - 04:27 PM

Thanks for the excellent picture tutorial and write-ups here! Keep up the nice work! :thumbs:


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