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Bolens 1053 Return to Service Project


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#271 blackjackjakexxix OFFLINE  

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Posted February 22, 2017 - 05:11 PM

Really looking good Stew,post all you want,makes good reading,and we all love pics
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#272 blackjackjakexxix OFFLINE  

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Posted February 22, 2017 - 05:14 PM

While I was waiting for the primer to dry and in between coats of paint I removed the dash and decided to sand the flat black where it had reacted with the ivory paint and after masking it I gave it a few light coats of the flat black again. After about the third coat the ivory started to wrinkle and react the same as what happened before - I am thinking now it is because there is a flattening agent in the black that reacts with the ivory as the black paint dries and looses its gloss. If anyone is using the Krylon flat black I would recommend that you paint the area you want flat black first and then mask it off and paint the rest of the area around it afterwards rather than trying to apply the flat black over a freshly painted surface. I ended up stripping the area of the dash back down to bare metal with the help of some thinners, a razor blade, a utility knife, some sandpaper and a scotch brite pad. Took a bit of work and some of the paint coming off was a gooey mess with the thinners but I finally got the paint removed and the metal cleaned up enough to paint it flat black. I thought that when I unmasked it the area around the flat black would be wrinkled but it actually doesn't look too bad in my opinion. After the paint had dried I installed the dash back on the tractor.


I have also had issues with the Kylon paints,they have a recoat time,and I think the Temps and conditions seem play a big part on recoating,may not be totaly cured,just my thoughts

Edited by blackjackjakexxix, February 22, 2017 - 08:39 PM.

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#273 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted February 22, 2017 - 05:16 PM

I have also had issues with the Kylon paints,they have a record time,and I think the Temps and conditionsee play a big part on recoating,just my thoughts

I am not using the paint under ideal conditions by any means and I am not blaming the paint - I think it was operator error.  I have sent them an email to ask if anyone else has had this problem - will see what they say.


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#274 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted February 22, 2017 - 05:22 PM

That's why I use Rustoleum!


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#275 Austen OFFLINE  

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Posted February 22, 2017 - 07:55 PM

Looking great! It's not until you get something outside and into the light that you can see what you really have sometimes. You've been so methodical every step of the way. :thumbs:


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#276 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted February 23, 2017 - 03:08 PM

Today I decided to make two new retainer rings that will hold the headlights in the hood using one from one of my 1050's as a guide.  I didn't want to remove the one on my 1050 so I used a 6" Vernier caliper to get the sizes and laid out a pattern on a piece of cardboard.  Once I had the pattern marked out I marked the cardboard for the hole size in the hood in a few spots and then held the cardboard piece on the inside of the hood (the marks centred the pattern in the hood hole) and then I marked out the three retainer holes making sure the pattern was indexed properly for the notch that locates the headlight.  Once they were marked out I cut the centre, retainer holes and notches out of the cardboard and marked out a left over piece of sheet metal from an old car hood - the hood metal is not as thick as the original retainer rings were but should still work nicely to hold the headlight in place.  I cut out the metal rings with tin snips, drilled the retainer holes and then I cut out the inner part and the notches using tin snips.  Once that was done I used a file to smooth up the edges and the notches, wire brushed and sanded the rings and after a test fit on an old headlight I primed and painted them.  I will likely use some round head machine screws to work as retainers - put a nut on them on the inside to hold them in place in the hood and then a second nut and lock washer to hold the retainer ring snug against the headlight the same as I have done on my 1050's - not original but it works.  

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Template Laid Out On Cardboard.jpg
  • 2 Retainer On A 1050.jpg
  • 3 Template Cut Out And Ready To Mark Metal.jpg
  • 4 Rings Marked Out.jpg
  • 5 Rings Cut Out And Ready To Remove Inner Piece.jpg
  • 6 Inner Part Cut Out And Test Fit On Old Seal Beam.jpg
  • 7 Inner Part Cut Out And Test Fit On Old Seal Beam.jpg
  • 8 Rings Wire Brushed And Sanded.jpg
  • 9 Ring Primed.jpg
  • 10 Ring Primed.jpg
  • 11 Ring Painted.jpg
  • 12 Ring Painted.jpg

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#277 Mark 149 J. OFFLINE  

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Posted February 23, 2017 - 05:05 PM

Looks good!


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#278 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted February 23, 2017 - 05:43 PM

Great idea! Looks like they will work!


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#279 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted February 26, 2017 - 05:30 PM

Got new brushes for my electric drill and installed them - since I had a bit of heat on I decided to try and start working on a steering wheel cap since the tractor did not have one when I got it and I wanted something to keep the dirt and moisture out of the hole.  I had been thinking about how to make one for a few weeks and initially had thought about using a round shaped piece of body steel to slip into the hole and cutting a piece of 1/8" flat steel to make the rectangular piece and then welding the body steel to the rectangle but was afraid it might start to rust after a few years so I decided I would try and make one out of plastic as I still had some of the cutting board material I used to make the bearing protector for the PTO shaft (I believe they were plastic originally but am not sure).  From pictures I have seen and the smooth part of the steering wheel area around the hole I believe the original was a rectangular shape so that is what I began to fabricate.  I found a 90 degree 1-1/4" plastic plumbing elbow I had and did some checking and figured I could turn the outside of the ribbed part down in the lathe to fit inside the hole. I made a cardboard template for the rectangle and set it over the hole to give me an idea of how it would look - I liked it so I cut the nipple off of the elbow, turned it down to 1.380" on the ribs and tried it in the hole - it was a tight fit but slid in.  I cut a rectangular piece out of the 3/8" thick cutting board - the one edge was rounded so I cut the piece a bit on the large side and decided I would try the sander on the edge to see what sort of a job it would do squaring up the edge and how rough the edge would look afterwards.  

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Steering Wheel Centre Hole.jpg
  • 2 Inch And A Quarter Sump Pump Elbow.jpg
  • 3 Cardboard Template For Wheel Centre.jpg
  • 4 Test Fit Of Template.jpg
  • 5 Size Of Hole.jpg
  • 6 Test Fit Of Elbow.jpg
  • 7 End Cut Off Of Elbow.jpg
  • 8 Ribbed End Turned Down In Lathe.jpg
  • 9 Ribbed End Pushed Into Hole.jpg
  • 10 Cutting Board Marked For Rectangular Piece.jpg
  • 11 Ribbed End Cut Off And Trued Up In Lathe.jpg
  • 12 Rectanguar Piece Cut Out Of Cutting Board.jpg

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#280 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted February 26, 2017 - 05:43 PM

Found out the ribbed piece was a very snug fit in the hole as I needed a pair of vise grips to remove it - once I got it out I shortened up the one end so that it would protrude above the wheel about .200" and that part would press into a bored hole on the rectangular piece.  I drew a line on the side that had the rounded edge and squared it up using the sander - it did a nice job of removing the material and left the edge rough and full of scratches which I figured it would.  I marked the rectangular piece for the offset so that it would be in the correct position when I bored it for the hole to press the ribbed piece into and mounted it in the lathe using the four jaw chuck so that I would be boring in the centre of the offset area.  I used a 1/4" end mill to start the centre of the bore and then enlarge the hole to 1.372 using a boring tool - the hole was recessed in .250".  Once I was done I pressed the ribbed piece into the rectangle and did a test fit on the wheel.   

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Needed To Use Vise Grips To Remove Ribbed Piece.jpg
  • 2 Extension On Rib Piece To Fit Inside Rectangular Piece.jpg
  • 3 Line Drawn Where Piece Needs To Be Sanded To Remove Rounded Edge.jpg
  • 4 Rectangular Piece Marked For Offset.jpg
  • 5 Using End Mill To Start Bore.jpg
  • 6 Increasing Diameter Of Bore.jpg
  • 7 Rectangular Piece Bored.jpg
  • 8 Rounded Edge Sanded With Die Grinder.jpg
  • 9 Rounded Edge Sanded With Die Grinder.jpg
  • 10 Ribbed Piece Pressed Into Bore.jpg
  • 11 Test Fit In Steering Wheel Hole.jpg
  • 12 Test Fit In Steering Wheel Hole.jpg
  • 13 Test Fit In Steering Wheel Hole.jpg

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#281 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted February 26, 2017 - 05:55 PM

Things looked good but from the pictures I had found the edges of the rectangle were bevelled so I marked a line 1/8" in from the edge on the four sides and using the sander I removed the unwanted material.  Once that was done I used 80 grit and then 320 grit sandpaper to smooth up the edges and remove the majority of the scratches and then did another test fit.  I liked the way it looked so I roughened up the bore and the outside of the ribbed piece with sandpaper, mixed up some JB Weld and then used it to join the two pieces together - I will leave it in the house for a couple of days so it cures in a warm environment.  The rectangle may stick up a little higher than what was there originally but should do a good job of covering up the hole - once the JB Weld cures and I make sure it holds the two pieces together I can figure out a way to make a  tang so that when the cap is installed it will not be able to rotate. Once it is all done I may paint it imitation chrome or the ivory colour - time will tell.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Rectangle Marked To Make Edges Beveled.jpg
  • 2 Edges Bevelled.jpg
  • 3 Edges Bevelled.jpg
  • 4 Starting To Sand Edges With 80 Gritt Paper.jpg
  • 6 Edges Sanded With 320 Paper.jpg
  • 7 Bottom SIde Of Edges.jpg
  • 8 Test Fit On Wheel.jpg
  • 9 Test Fit On Wheel.jpg
  • 10 Test Fit On Wheel.jpg
  • 11 Test Fit On Wheel.jpg
  • 12 Two Pieces Joined Using JB Weld.jpg
  • 13 Can Just See JB Weld Though Top Of Rectangle.jpg
  • 14 Wiped Excess JB Weld Around Outside Edge Off.jpg

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#282 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted February 26, 2017 - 05:59 PM

That came out pretty nice!


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#283 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted February 26, 2017 - 06:18 PM

That came out pretty nice!

Thanks - I am happy with it.  When I am done with the tang I may use the DA sander with 320 grit paper on the edges to smooth them up a little more.


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#284 fonz3482 OFFLINE  

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Posted February 26, 2017 - 06:40 PM

Man that center cap came out nice! Great work!
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#285 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted February 28, 2017 - 04:05 PM

Checked the JB Weld and it appeared to be cured and had the rectangular piece and the ribbed piece bonded together - did a test by installing the cap and then prying it back out with a screwdriver and it came back out in one piece.  Decided to use a 8-32 x 1/4" long set screw from my small set screw assortment - while I was digging out the assortment I found a plastic nipple piece from another project that I was sure I had but couldn't find when I cut up the elbow to make the ribbed piece - one of these days I will forget my head.  I did a test on the nipple I found to make sure the plastic would drill and tap ok and that the set screw would work to index the cover - things looked good but the set screw appeared to be very snug in the groove in the steering wheel so I filed the set screw threads flat at the end that would protrude so that it would be a little loose in the groove.  Got the cap drilled and tapped and threaded the set screw in so the end was flush with the inside of the nipple piece and did a test fit - it went in ok so I removed it, removed the set screw, put a drop of blue threadlocker on the threads so the set screw stays put and reinstalled the set screw. 

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Set Screw Assortment.jpg
  • 2 Test Run On Nipple I had Wanted To Find Earlier.jpg
  • 3 Hole Location Marked.jpg
  • 4 Hole Drilled.jpg
  • 5 Ready To Tap Hole.jpg
  • 6 Hole Threaded.jpg
  • 7 Side Of Set Screw Filed near End.jpg
  • 8 Side Of Set Screw Filed near End.jpg
  • 9 Screw Threaded In To Make Locating Tang.jpg
  • 10 Test Fit In Hole.jpg
  • 11 Drop Of Blue Threadlocker Applied To Threads.jpg

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