Masked the back side of the holes in the dash, the edge around the inset and the rest of the dash and painted the inset area flat black - I see that after the paint has dried you can just make out the outline of the hole I filled with JB Weld so if I was doing this on an area that would show I would recommend a light coat of body filler and primer to fill in any imperfections. The flat black went on ok but I noticed after it dried that there was a bit of reaction with the other paint around the one edge and a few spots - probably a bit of surface contamination as the shop is not super clean. I decided I will let it dry for a few weeks and give it another attempt when the weather is warmer and the paint has cured for a while so I bolted the dash in place where it will be out of the way and add a bit of strength and help hold the shape of the dash support - took some more pictures with the dash installed.
Bolens 1053 Return to Service Project
Posted February 06, 2017 - 04:52 PM
I have just been looking at your first post and photos in this thread. You have transformed it beyond recognition; very impressive. My first thoughts were, on seeing the earlier photos prior to working your magic, did you buy that over here in the U.K.! :-)
Thanks for the kind words - it is clean looking compared to what I started with but the pictures make it look better than it is - has some runs, dirt etc. but it is going to be a work tractor. I think I am a little over half way there - still have to fix and clean up the hood, find or make a crank pulley, figure out what I am going to use for a motor, wiring, switches, throttle and choke cables and a bunch of other miscellaneous things. I will work away at it slowly as time permits - there is not panic or timeline to finish it by a certain date.
Be very interested to see what engine you slot in there. There must be some Wisconsin engines knocking around in your area?
Edited by Bolens800uk, February 06, 2017 - 04:54 PM.
- 29 Chev said thank you
Posted February 06, 2017 - 05:25 PM
Started working on marking out the metal that will become the new heat shield - got the upper corners trimmed for the part that will form the upper lip and the ears. Then I bent the upper lip - it was all my homemade sheet metal brake would do to form the bend - things were creaking and groaning including me - it takes a lot of force to bend 16 gauge steel. I got the upper lip formed to a ninety degree bend and then used a hammer to form the edge a bit more and got it to the point that you see which made me happy. Marked out for the second bend, cleaned and squared up the lower corners of the ears and bent it using the brake - still took a bit of force and I had to play with things a bit to get the bend a fairly even ninety the full length of the metal. Used the square to verify that it was reasonably close and then marked out and did the third bend.
- KennyP, WrenchinOnIt, ClassicBolens and 2 others have said thanks
Posted February 06, 2017 - 05:35 PM
Used the square again to verify the bend was close to ninety degrees all the way along. Once that was done I started to bend the ears using the brake - got them to about a fourty five degree angle and after that I used a pair of vise grips modified with two pieces of 1/8" flat steel welded to them (that I use for bending the lip on some seats) to make them into ninety degrees. The bends are not quite as tight as the original ones would have been but the heat shield should still fit and function ok. I angled the front lower corners using the hack saw and then called it a day. I will still have to mark and drill the holes for the mounting bolts in the ears and also the holes and cutout where the front lower part bolts to the motor but at least the hard part of bending it is done.
Edited by 29 Chev, February 08, 2017 - 03:45 PM.
- Bolens 1000, Bruce Dorsi, KennyP and 5 others have said thanks
Posted February 06, 2017 - 08:18 PM
- 29 Chev said thank you
Posted February 07, 2017 - 03:48 AM
You sir do some awesome work! Can't wait to see this done!
- 29 Chev said thank you
Posted February 08, 2017 - 03:45 PM
Thanks for the kind words - did some more to the heat shield today. Figured out where to put the holes in the ears. Since the holes in the ears of the original shield were slotted for adjustment I drilled two small pilot holes and then enlarged them to 1/4" which made the two holes become one to start making the slots. Then I marked out the outline of the slotted holes and used a round file to slowly enlarge the holes I had drilled to the shape of the slotted holes. Once that was done I did a test fit to see how well it fit the dash support when bolted up.
- blackjackjakexxix, KennyP, WrenchinOnIt and 1 other said thanks
Posted February 08, 2017 - 04:00 PM
Things looked good so I began to figure out where the two bolt holes needed to be at the front of the shield that mount it to the engine. I centred the heat shield in the dash support for height using the two upper bolts (leaving the two lower bolts out so I could see where the lower holes were in relation to the dash support holes) and tightened the two upper bolts. Using the old TRA10D I have from my 1050, a piece of cardboard and a square I figured out the height from the bottom of the engine and the offset of the two holes from the centreline of the engine mounting holes and came up with 7-1/2" from the bottom to the holes and the two rear holes and crank are about 1/4" to the left of centre looking at the rear of the engine. Then I ciphered in the 3/4" spacers that go between the engine and the frame tubes and marked the hole heights in the shield at 8-1/4". Once that was done I marked the offset and spacing of the two holes and drilled them in the shield. After that I used the upper belt guide to mark the curve to clear the step in the engine, rough cut the curve out using the hacksaw and did a test fit. It still hit at the bottom edge so I marked where it needs to be reshaped which will be tomorrows project if it is not too cold.
- Bolens 1000, Bruce Dorsi, blackjackjakexxix and 5 others have said thanks
Posted February 09, 2017 - 02:15 PM
Went down to about 7 degrees F last night so when I went out I wasn't sure how much I would get done today but the sun was shining for a little while so I did a few things. Got the curve of the shield cleaned up and the material removed at the bottom so it should fit the engine. I also took the wire brush to the upper belt guard and got most of the paint and guck off of it. Once that was done I dug out the hood I will be using which I got last year from Chubien - it is off of a 1050 and has had the cutout area where the muffler goes enlarged but other than that it is in pretty good shape except for some surface rust. It came with the front hinge and the hood stop which is a bonus as I did not have them - it is missing the retaining rings for the headlights so I will have to make a pair.
- LPBolens, blackjackjakexxix, KennyP and 1 other said thanks
Posted February 09, 2017 - 02:25 PM
Since most of the pictures I have found of a 1053 do not show a cutout for the muffler I am going to attempt to fill that area in (interesting that the picture in the parts manual shows the hood having a cutout). Got the pieces removed off of the hood and wire brushed the area around the opening to get rid of the rust and paint. I used the tool I made to open up the edge on some seats to bend the lip back where it is bent over on the inside which will make welding the new piece in and grinding the weld easier. Clamped on a piece of cardboard and drew the outline of the opening to make a pattern for the piece I will need to cut to fill in the cutout and cut it out. It had started snowing for about an hour as I was working on things and the wind picked up so I got tired of the cold and dodging snowflakes and called it a day. It is supposed to be warmer on the weekend - time will tell.
- blackjackjakexxix, KennyP, WrenchinOnIt and 2 others have said thanks
Posted February 10, 2017 - 07:56 PM
Too cold to work on hood today so I finally completed a little project I have been working on since the cooler weather showed up. Since the parts manual for the Bolens model 1053 that is loaded on the site has some part numbers that are hard to read I have been working away cleaning up the images and redoing the text using excel and converting it back to a PDF manual. If anyone wants a cleaner, easier to read copy it is now loaded on the site - http://gardentractor...log-cleaned-up/ . The part number pages in it are text searchable using the "Control F" option.
- Bolens 1000, LPBolens, blackjackjakexxix and 3 others have said thanks
Posted February 11, 2017 - 05:46 PM
It warmed up a bit today (40 degrees F) and not much wind so I got the metal marked and cut out for the piece to fill in the cut out area of the hood. The metal I used had a 1/4" hole drilled in it and was pitted near the edge in a few spots so I did some welding and grinding to correct things before I started marking and bending the piece. I left the inner lip 1/2" wide which makes it easier to bend in my homemade metal brake - formed the inner lip and also the upper bend using the metal brake. Then I used my metal forming pliers (store bought and homemade) to form the lower bend - got the lower bend made but in the process the upper bend flattened out and the lip rolled open a bit which I figured would happen. I reformed the upper bend using the U channel and a piece of 1/4" angle iron and then I compared the bends in the piece to the shape of the hood by holding it up against the inside of the hood.
- blackjackjakexxix and KennyP have said thanks
Posted February 11, 2017 - 05:53 PM
The bends in the metal piece looked close enough that I figured I could begin to test fit it to the hood area and be able to tweak the bends as required with my metal bending pliers. Did a few test fits and ground the top edge of the metal piece to get it to fit in the opening - finally got it to where I could clamp it in place so I clamped the 1/4" angle to the inside of the hood and clamped the piece in place. Did a little tweaking on the bends and then tack welded the piece in the opening. Once the piece was tacked I removed the angle iron and trimmed the inner lip width down to 3/8", ground the tack welds and checked the piece to see how it looked for straightness along the lip edge compared with the hood.
- blackjackjakexxix, KennyP and dtsh have said thanks
Posted February 11, 2017 - 05:58 PM
Things looked pretty close so I welded the piece in place. The inner lip at the front needed a little filler piece to connect the lip on the piece to the lip on the hood so I cut the end of a narrow strip of metal to the correct shape, welded it on to the lip and cut off the excess. Once that was done I ground the welds - there were a few spots along the bottom edge that required a second welding and sanding to build up the edge.
- blackjackjakexxix, KennyP and TomLGT195 have said thanks
Posted February 11, 2017 - 06:00 PM
Looks good, I wish I knew how to weld sheet metal that good.
- 29 Chev said thank you