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Bolens 1053 Return to Service Project


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#211 stiemmy OFFLINE  

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Posted January 28, 2017 - 04:17 PM

She's looking good, keep up the great work!
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#212 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted January 28, 2017 - 04:33 PM

She's looking good, keep up the great work!

I'll second that!


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#213 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted January 28, 2017 - 05:22 PM

Ordered some new slotted round headed 5/16" screws and 1/4" self tapping screws with a 3/8" hex head (had to settle for ones with a slot in the head) and some star washers that were close to what the hardware for the side panels used originally and picked them up late yesterday.  Got the "L" brackets I made painted when I did the rear fender and installed them today and traded out the hex head bolts I had used for the new hardware.  Once that was done I bolted on the rear fender using the 5/16" round headed slot screws at the front - since I didn't turn any heat on in the shop I got cold after that so I called it a day.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 New Hardware.jpg
  • 2 Right Angle Bracket Painted And Installed.jpg
  • 3 Right Angle Bracket Painted And Installed.jpg
  • 4 Right Side Panel Screws Changed.jpg
  • 5 Right Side Panel Screws Changed.jpg
  • 6 Left Side Panel Screws Changed.jpg
  • 7 Rear Fender Bolted On.jpg
  • 8 Rear Fender Bolted On.jpg
  • 9 Round Head Slotted Screws In Front Of Fender.jpg
  • 10 Round Head Slotted Screws In Front Of Fender.jpg
  • 11 Fender Installed.jpg
  • 12 Fender Installed.jpg
  • 13 Fender Installed.jpg

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#214 slf-uk OFFLINE  

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Posted January 29, 2017 - 12:16 PM

Your doing a fantastic job, great work :thumbs:

 

I found a online store in the US that sells the correct fixings for the panels and I had some shipped over to the UK. Let me know if you are interested and I will see if I can find the link.

 

Iain


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#215 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted January 29, 2017 - 02:31 PM

Thanks for the kind words and the offer of the link - the hardware I am using should hold things together and look good enough for a work tractor.

 

The snow fairy showed up last night and left us a present - it is white and fluffy but doesn't keep you warm when you hold it close to you     :smiley-score002: .

 

Took a soft wire brush gently to the dash and got most of the decal and some of the paint removed to the point I can now work away at it with some sandpaper.  I wire brushed the battery tray, welded a pitted section and filled in a couple of 1/4" holes that someone had drilled in it at the front (forgot to take "before" pictures).  I used the J clips from the battery tray for the brackets for the side panels so I welded four 5/16" UNC nuts on the inside edge of the holes for the bolts that hold it in place - clamped the nuts in place with a pair of vise grips after I made sure they were centred in the holes.  Once I had that done I sanded the welded areas and did a test fit to make sure the bolts would all go in it when it was mounted in place to the dash support.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Winters Back Again.jpg
  • 2 Dash Wire Brushed.jpg
  • 3 Dash Wire Brushed.jpg
  • 4 Dash Wire Brushed.jpg
  • 5 Dash Worn A Bit From Hood Around Corner.jpg
  • 6 Top Of Battery Tray After Welding And Sanding.jpg
  • 7 Bottom Of Battery Tray.jpg
  • 8 Nuts Welded To Battery Tray Lip.jpg
  • 9 Nuts Centered In Holes.jpg
  • 10 Making Sure Bolts Still Line Up For Battery Tray.jpg
  • 11 Making Sure Bolts Still Line Up For Battery Tray.jpg
  • 12 Making Sure Bolts Still Line Up For Battery Tray.jpg

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#216 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted January 29, 2017 - 04:16 PM

Always a treat to read this thread!


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#217 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted January 31, 2017 - 04:01 PM

Warmed up to about 30 degrees F today so I turned the heat on in the shop and got a little bit more done.  Finished removing the remains of the decal and paint around the edges and corners of the dash using a small flat screwdriver and a utility knife to scrape in where the wire wheel and sandpaper wouldn't reach.  I gave the rest of the dash a good sanding and used the screwdriver and utility knife on the edges and corners on the back side to clean them up.  Someone had drilled an extra hole in the dash for a second light switch (for a rear light) above the original hole and while it would be covered by the new dash decal I wanted to see how well JB Weld would work to fill it in.  I used a round file to clean and roughen up the hole inside and then I taped a piece of cardboard on the backside of the hole and since I have learned from experience that the JB Weld sometimes sinks a little bit after it sits while curing as any air bubbles work there way out I used another piece of cardboard and cut out a hole a little bigger than the hole I wanted to fill and taped it to the front side of the dash.  This let me build up the JB Weld the thickness of the cardboard when I applied the JB Weld - I am hoping this will let me sand the JB Weld off flush after it cures without having to apply another coat - will see what happens after it cures for a couple of days.  Once I finished out in the shop I brought the dash into the house so it will stay warm as it cures.  

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Dash Cleaned Up.jpg
  • 2 Dash Cleaned Up.jpg
  • 3 Left Corner.jpg
  • 4 Right Corner.jpg
  • 5 Two Holes Instead Of One.jpg
  • 6 Rear View Of Dash.jpg
  • 7 Cardboard Taped On Backside Of Hole.jpg
  • 8 Cardboard For Front Side With Hole.jpg
  • 9 Cardboard WIth Hole Taped On Front.jpg
  • 10 Hole Filled With JB Weld.jpg

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#218 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted January 31, 2017 - 04:18 PM

I got the battery tray sanded, primed with self etching primer and painted.  Worked away at the dash support - got some body filler applied, sanded, found a couple more fine cracks around one of the bolt holes which got welded, sanded some more and finally got it to the point I could apply some self etching primer. 

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Battery Tray With Self Etching Primer.jpg
  • 2 Battery Tray Painted.jpg
  • 3 Battery Tray Painted.jpg
  • 4 Filler On Dash Support.jpg
  • 5 Filler On Dash Support.jpg
  • 6 Filler On Dash Support.jpg
  • 7 Self Etching Primer On Dash Support.jpg
  • 8 Self Etching Primer On Dash Support.jpg
  • 9 Self Etching Primer On Dash Support.jpg
  • 10 Self Etching Primer On Dash Support.jpg
  • 11 Self Etching Primer On Dash Support.jpg

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#219 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted January 31, 2017 - 07:07 PM

Looking better all the time!


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#220 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted February 04, 2017 - 04:49 PM

After letting the dash sit for a few days I figured the JB Weld would be cured so I removed the masking tape and cardboard pieces and sanded the JB Weld flush with the dash.  Then I gave the dash a wash off and painted it - I did not use any body filler or primer over the JB Weld.  The paint did a good job of covering up the JB Weld and the decal will hide the area anyways.  Once the paint dries I will have to mask off around the inset area and paint it flat black. 

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Tape Removed Around J B Weld.jpg
  • 2 Back SIde With Cardboard Removed.jpg
  • 3 JB Weld Sanded On Back Side.jpg
  • 4 Cardboard Removed Around J B Weld Front.jpg
  • 5 J B Weld Sanded Flush Front.jpg
  • 6 Dash Painted Front Side.jpg
  • 7 Dash Painted Front.jpg
  • 8 Close Up Around Light Switch Hole.jpg
  • 9 Close Up Around Light Switch Hole Rear.jpg
  • 10 Close Up Around Light Switch Hole Rear.jpg

Edited by 29 Chev, February 04, 2017 - 06:13 PM.

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#221 Bolens800uk OFFLINE  

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Posted February 04, 2017 - 04:52 PM

Nice work Stew
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#222 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted February 04, 2017 - 05:00 PM

I also primed the dash support and sanded the primer when it was dry.  Then I painted the dash support - first on the inside, around the louvres and the edges.  Once that was dry I flipped it over and painted the outside - got a couple of runs in it but at least it is painted now and looks better than the rust.  I also cut out a piece of 16 gauge out to make a heat shield that goes across the front of the dash support since I did not get one with the tractor.  I am going to pattern it after the one on my 1050 - they show as a different part number in the parts manuals but I believe that is because some of the bolt holes are in different locations - should be close enough to work.  I am not sure I will be able to bend it in my sheet metal brake as it is 16 gauge steel and over 14" long on one of the bends but will see how it goes - worst comes to worst I will slit it in a few places along the bend and then weld the slits in after it is bent. 

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Dash Support Painted On Inside.jpg
  • 2 Dash Support Painted Right Side.jpg
  • 3 Dash Support Painted Left Side.jpg
  • 4 Dash Support Painted Rear.jpg
  • 5 Sheet Metal Piece Cut Out To Make Heat Shield.jpg
  • 6 Sheet Metal Piece Cut Out To Make Heat Shield.jpg

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#223 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted February 06, 2017 - 04:16 PM

Decided before I mounted the dash support I had better add something to hook the tensioner spring for the idler pulley to.  Originally they used a 3/16" x 3/4" cotter key and inserted the end of the spring through the eye of the cotter key and while it worked ok I have seen where the spring will wear through the eye of the cotter key and also the end of the spring break as the eye can wear it.  I drilled a 1/4" hole beside where the original 3/16" hole was and installed a 1/4" eye that I got at the hardware store and used a 1/4" lock nut on the threads so that I could leave the eye loose to swivel in the holes.  I have used this set up on my last 1050 and have had good results as the eye is rounded and does not seem to wear from the spring and the spring has a rounded contact area where it hooks.  Once that was done I installed the dash support using two 1/4" hex head screws at the bottom and then I installed the battery tray using four 5/16" round headed screws.  I scratched the paint a little bit a the bottom where the bolts go through the dash support and also where it touched the steering column - I bent the dash support a little bit to give it a bit of clearance around the steering column.  I will have to touch up the scratches along with some other marks and chips eventually and I may mask things off in the sping if it warms up nice and give everything another coat of paint - time will tell.   

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Quarter Inch Hole Drilled.jpg
  • 2 Quarter Inch Eye.jpg
  • 3 Quarter Inch Eye Installed.jpg
  • 4 Quarter Inch Eye Turns.jpg
  • 5 Location Of Eye In Relation To Idler Bracket.jpg
  • 6 Location Of Eye In Relation To Idler Bracket.jpg
  • 7 Dash Support Installed.jpg
  • 8 Dash Support Installed.jpg
  • 9 Dash SUpport Installed.jpg
  • 10 Used Hex Head Screw And Scatched Paint A Bit.jpg
  • 11 Battery Tray Installed.jpg
  • 12 Battery Tray Installed.jpg
  • 13 Used Round Headed Screws.jpg

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#224 Bolens800uk OFFLINE  

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Posted February 06, 2017 - 04:26 PM

Looking good Stew. How much more is there to do now?

You could eat your dinner off that paintwork as it so clean!
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#225 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted February 06, 2017 - 04:39 PM

Looking good Stew. How much more is there to do now?

You could eat your dinner off that paintwork as it so clean!

Thanks for the kind words - it is clean looking compared to what I started with but the pictures make it look better than it is - has some runs, dirt etc. but it is going to be a work tractor.  I think I am a little over half way there - still have to fix and clean up the hood, find or make a crank pulley, figure out what I am going to use for a motor, wiring, switches, throttle and choke cables and a bunch of other miscellaneous things.  I will work away at it slowly as time permits - there is not panic or timeline to finish it by a certain date. 


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