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Bolens 1053 Return to Service Project


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#136 TomLGT195 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 29, 2016 - 06:29 PM

BKT tires? Where did you get those? Nice tread design.


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#137 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted December 29, 2016 - 06:48 PM

BKT tires? Where did you get those? Nice tread design.

Local OK Tire Dealer - Kinfarm Tire - http://www.kinfarm.com/.

 

I also priced lug style tires for the rear which were a little bit less expensive but I think the turf tread will work better for what I plan to use the tractor for.  The tires say made in India - not sure if that is good or bad - will see how they stand up.  The rears are rated at 6 ply and the fronts at 4 ply  - for off highway use only.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Made In India.jpg
  • 2 Front 4 Ply Rating.jpg
  • 3 Rear 6 Ply Rating.jpg
  • 4 Rear Tread.jpg

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#138 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted December 30, 2016 - 05:01 PM

Got the front tie rods bolted back in place today and was going to tackle repairing the drag link but my autodarkening welding helmet quit working so I spent part of today cleaning up the lense on my old manual welding shield and seeing if I could repair the autodarkening one - if you own a autodarkening helmet make sure you store it where it can stay charged if you do not use it everyday - they may say solar powered but they do contain rechargeable batteries that can become discharged in low light conditions.  You can check out what I found here - http://gardentractor...et-information/

 

While I was working on the helmet I took a used PTO unit apart that I had picked up this summer - it has some wear on the shaft splines and in the pulley splines so I will probably end up using the extra PTO that came with the 1053 that I have not done anything with since I repaired the splines on it - http://gardentractor...o-shaft-repair/.  I have new bearings and a new seal for it if I can remember where I put them and I will have to make up a belt guard for it.  Interestingly the one I picked up this summer had a bronze shield screwed onto the front over the plastic spacer - not sure if this was a Bolens add on or if someone added it to protect the front bearing better (someone had replaced the front bearing with a bearing that had seals in both sides).  The rear needle bearing was sticking out of the housing a bit (no rear seal) but other than that I think the shaft and pulley splines can be repaired the same as I did on the 1053 one and it will be a spare unit - I will probably repair it when I get time and the weather is warmer.  I also noticed that where the housing is bored for the rear needle bearing is not necessarily centred with the cast housing (took a picture of the two units housings side by side) - I would think this would affect the distance between the engine and PTO pulleys a little bit - maybe that is why some tube frame PTO's are not as sensitive to the 42-1/2" belt length being just right so they disengage properly?? 

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Tie Rods In Place.jpg
  • 2 Tie Rods In Place.jpg
  • 4 Used PTO.jpg
  • 5 Brass Shield That Someone Added To Front.jpg
  • 6 Rear Needle Beaing Sticking Out And No Seal.jpg
  • 7 Front View Of PTO WIth Screwholes.jpg
  • 8 Pulley Area Of Spline Worn.jpg
  • 9 Front Bearing With Seal In Rear Of It.jpg
  • 10 Front Bearing With Seal In Front Side.jpg
  • 11 PTO Housings Needle Bearing End.jpg
  • 12 Second PTO Housing Front View.jpg
  • 13 PTO Housing Front View.jpg
  • 14 PTO Pulley Spline Worn.jpg

Edited by 29 Chev, December 30, 2016 - 07:31 PM.

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#139 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted January 02, 2017 - 04:08 PM

It was a beautiful sunny day here today so I started to repair the drag link - first I cut the front part off of the piece that had been welded in to extend it.  Cleaned up the two halves with the wire brush and also cleaned up the ball stud that had come out of the rear hole - it was originally held in with a spring wire ring that went into a groove in the hole.   The groove was damaged on one side and I thought about trying to repair the groove by welding it but I didn't feel I could do a good enough job on cleaning up the groove afterwards so I went with another plan.  I took a 1/2" flat washer which seemed to have about the correct size of a hole to allow the ball stud movement to pivot but still hold it in place and cut it with a hacksaw giving me a small and large piece.  I decided to add a grease fitting to the rear joint since it would not be sealed as well as it was originally so I drilled and tapped a hole and threaded a grease fitting into the hole to keep weld splatter out of the hole while I was welding the washer.  Removed the spring wire from the stud and did a test fit with the stud and washer - the stud was tight in the hole but had quite a bit of in and out movement so I ground some material away on the flat part of drag link so the washer would be tighter against the ball.  This made things a nice fit and still let the stud pivot so I cut a bit off of the outside of the washer pieces to square them up a bit and tack welded the short piece of the washer to the drag link and checked the stud for movement - things looked good so I tack welded the larger piece of the washer to the rear and again checked that the ball moved freely but wasn't sloppy and still could pivot.  Things still looked good so I finished welding the washer pieces on and ground the welds.  

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Front Part Of Drag Link.jpg
  • 2 Rear Part Of Drag Link WIth Extension Piece.jpg
  • 3 Ball Stud.jpg
  • 4 Snap Ring Groove Damaged.jpg
  • 5 Half Inch Flat Washer Cut With Hacksaw.jpg
  • 6 Hole For Grease Fitting Drilled And Tapped.jpg
  • 7 Grease Fitting Threaded Into Hole.jpg
  • 8 Material Ground Off Of Flat Side To Groove Depth.jpg
  • 9 Flat Washer Edges Cut.jpg
  • 10 Short Part Of Washer Clamped In Place.jpg
  • 11 Tack Welded.jpg
  • 12 Tack Welded.jpg
  • 13 Larger Part Of Washer Welded To Rear.jpg
  • 14 Welds Ground.jpg
  • 15 Welds Ground.jpg
  • 16 Welds Ground.jpg

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#140 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted January 02, 2017 - 04:18 PM

I measured the drag link on one of my 1050's since they use the same drag link to determine the approximate length the drag link should be from the bend to the rear stud and came up with about 11-1/2" so I cut the rear part of the drag link off of the piece that had been welded on and angled the ends of the two drag link pieces with the two studs aligned close to the way they would be when mounted on the tractor.  Now it was time to figure out how long the drag link should be so the steering wheel was reasonably centred and also make sure the two studs were at the proper offset in relation to each other so I decided the easiest way would be to do a test fit on the tractor.  This meant that I had to remove the tractor from the stand so I lowered the front and then the rear and had a rolling chassis which I pushed outside and it posed for a few pictures. 

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Rear View.jpg
  • 2 Right Side View.jpg
  • 3 Front View.jpg
  • 4 Front View.jpg
  • 5 Left Side View.jpg

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#141 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted January 02, 2017 - 04:25 PM

Clamped the two pieces together using vise grips and a short piece of angle iron and mounted the drag link on the tractor.  I pushed the tractor ahead for about ten feet and the steering wheel appeared very close to centre and then I checked the stud angles.  Had to adjust the two pieces a little bit by rotating the one in relation to the other to get the studs centred in their pivot holes and once that was done I put the tractor away again, unbolted the drag link and welded the two pieces together with the mig welder by filling in the "v".  When I got done welding I ground the weld down to the same size as the drag link material.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Drag Link Pieces Cut And Angled.jpg
  • 2 Drag Link On Tractor To CHeck Angles And Length.jpg
  • 3 Front Of Drag Link.jpg
  • 4 Rear Of Drag Link.jpg
  • 5 Drag Link Pieces Welded.jpg
  • 6 Drag Link Pieces Welded.jpg
  • 7 Weld Ground.jpg
  • 8 Weld Ground.jpg
  • 9 Repaired Drag Link.jpg
  • 10 Repaired Drag Link.jpg

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#142 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted January 02, 2017 - 05:23 PM

Looks like a good fix to me!


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#143 Chubien OFFLINE  

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Posted January 02, 2017 - 06:45 PM

Good work on that one, I also like how your pics of the tractor turned out outside, it really makes it pop out.

Edited by Chubien, January 03, 2017 - 05:17 PM.

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#144 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted January 03, 2017 - 04:04 PM

Thanks for the kind words - glad I took the pictures yesterday when the sun was shining rather than today - turned mild and the snow is now slush and ice and it is very cloudy and damp - not complaining as it beats a foot of snow any day in my world.  Got the drag link, PTO pulley painted today and then I turned my attention to start making a belt guard to fit the PTO housing that I got cleaned up and painted a few days ago.  Drew out a template of the rear piece that goes around the pulley on a piece of cardboard using the belt guard on one of my 1050"s to get approximate shape and diameter - went with an inside radius of 2-1/4" on the curved part around the bottom - worked out to 4-1/2" inside diameter which seemed to be about right for a nice clearance around the pulley.  Then I used two piece of 3/4" x 1/8" flat steel to make the two front pieces that bolt onto the housing - drilled the holes and then bolted them to the housing and using the 1050 guard as a pattern bent them.  Then I did a test fit of them to see how close the rear piece fit inside them.  Will have to get the bearings, shaft and pulley in place before I weld the rear piece to the two front pieces and then I will plate the two front pieces with pieces of 1/8" x 3/4" to give them more strength once I get the shape right.  

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Drag Link Painted.jpg
  • 2 PTO Pulley Painted.jpg
  • 3 PTO Housing Painted.jpg
  • 4 PTO Housing Painted.jpg
  • 5 Belt Guard Rear PieceTemplate.jpg
  • 6 Rear Piece Bent.jpg
  • 7 Test Fit Of U Piece Around Pulley.jpg
  • 8 Front Pieces Cut And Holes Drilled.jpg
  • 9 Pieces Bolted To Housing To Determine Where First Bend Should Be.jpg
  • 10 Pieces Bent.jpg
  • 11 Pieces Bent And Test FIt.jpg

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#145 KennyP OFFLINE  

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Posted January 03, 2017 - 04:41 PM

Looks good!


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#146 TomLGT195 OFFLINE  

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Posted January 03, 2017 - 04:46 PM

I've been following this thread from the beginning and really don't recall if you mentioned what type of paint you are using. So.... what type and brand do you you use? Thanks in advance, and awesome work restoring/saving that tractor .


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#147 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted January 03, 2017 - 05:40 PM

I've been following this thread from the beginning and really don't recall if you mentioned what type of paint you are using. So.... what type and brand do you you use? Thanks in advance, and awesome work restoring/saving that tractor .

Thanks for the kind words - the 1053 is starting to look like a tractor again and although it has been "modified" during its life I wanted to try and save it since the 1053 model was only produced for the one year.  As I have stated it won't be a beauty queen but should look respectable and with the work I am doing it should be trouble free for a few years as long as I do regular maintenance on it. 

 

The paint I am using is Krylon Colormaster Paint and Primer "Gloss Ivory" and I used the same paint in "Banner Red" for the wheels and knobs.    

Attached Thumbnails

  • 9 Ivory Paint.jpg

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#148 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted January 04, 2017 - 04:09 PM

Found the new bearings and seal I had set away for the PTO so I pressed the needle bearing into the rear of the PTO housing, installed the front bearing, shaft and pulley so I could check out how the guard pieces looked in relation to the pulley.  I did not want the front sides of the guard to be a tight fit against the housing so I made a couple of cardboard shims for the rear bolt and used a couple of flat washers for the front bolt to act as spacers between the housing and the sides of the guard.  Once the side pieces were bolted in place I determined where I wanted the rear piece and clamped the pieces together with a couple of pairs of vise grips and removed the pieces from the PTO housing.  I reinstalled them on the unpainted housing and tack welded things together and added two L shaped pieces to stiffen up the side pieces - once things were tacked in place I again verified the fit using the painted housing with the pulley and two short pieces of belts to make sure the guard had a bit of clearance and the belts would release from the pulley and be trapped in the U part. I also cut a couple of short pieces of flat steel to go where the bolt holes were and made sure the guard would slide ahead on the PTO housing to facilitate changing the belts when needed - the "V" between the two front pieces shown in picture # 11 was created by the shims and provides the clearance necessary so you do not have to fight with the guard to slide it forward.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Bearings And Seal For PTO.jpg
  • 2 Needle Bearing Pressed Into Housing.jpg
  • 3 Needle Bearing Pressed Into Housing.jpg
  • 4 Front bearing And Shaft Temporarily Installed.jpg
  • 5 Front Bearing And Shaft Temporarily Installed.jpg
  • 6 Cardboard Shim And Flat Washer In Place.jpg
  • 7 Cardboard Shim And Flat Washer In Place.jpg
  • 8 Pieces Tack Welded.jpg
  • 9 Pieces TAck Welded.jpg
  • 10 Pieces For Bolt Hole Section.jpg
  • 11 Shims And Washers Created Slight V.jpg
  • 12 Test Fit With Pieces Of V Belts In Pulley.jpg
  • 13 Test Fit With Pieces Of V Belts In Pulley.jpg
  • 14 Test Fit With Pieces Of V Belts In Pulley.jpg
  • 15 Making Sure Guard Would SLide Ahead To Install Belts.jpg

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#149 29 Chev OFFLINE  

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Posted January 04, 2017 - 04:15 PM

Things looked good so I drilled holes in the two short pieces for the bolts, added them to the front sides of the guard and welded everything up.  Then I did another test fit and one spot of the guard around the 3:00 to 5:00 position looked a little close to the pulley so I bent the right arm a little bit to make it wider and the guard got painted.  Not quite as pretty as an original guard but it should fit and function ok.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 1 Bolt Area Plated And Pieces Welded.jpg
  • 2 Bolt Area Plated And Pieces Welded.jpg
  • 3 Bolt Area Plated And Pieces Welded.jpg
  • 4 Bolt Area Plated And Pieces Welded.jpg
  • 5 Bolt Area Plated And Pieces Welded.jpg
  • 6 Test Fit With Belts.jpg
  • 7 Clearance Around Guard.jpg
  • 8 Clearance Around Guard.jpg
  • 9 Guard Painted.jpg
  • 10 Guard Painted.jpg

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#150 Chubien OFFLINE  

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Posted January 04, 2017 - 04:32 PM

That guard looks pretty good if you ask me. They are getting difficult to find for the dual belt system. I know of some reproduction ones available but prob $$$.
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