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Ford LGT 165 repower... Kubota d722

kubota ford lgt

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#31 pryan05 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 06, 2016 - 03:08 PM

So I made some progress with relocation of the deck lift dc valve.  I moved it to the right side of the tractor and laid it flat.

dc valve relocation
I was worried about using -4 hydraulic hose on the a and b ports because the original are -6, until I found this fitting in the valve.  The new fitting was modified to have the same orifice  I think I drilled it with a # 54 drill bit
dc valve fitting
I had to make a an extension on the lever
weird bracket for dc valve
Tractor with the current progress
progress

 

    

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#32 pryan05 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 11, 2016 - 05:57 PM

Started building the stand off for the PTO. I am using parts of the generator housing and some 1/8" plate.

stub shaft and gen stand off

Seen here is the aluminium ring from the generator/welder

stand off
A face plate and the a piece of the housing

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#33 skyrydr2 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 15, 2016 - 05:05 AM

Thats coming along nicely. The deck raises and lowers on the closed sided tractors like a$$ drill that fitting hole a pinch larger and you will be quite happy. My 72 LGT raises and loweres way better than my 165 does because it has full open fittings.
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#34 pryan05 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 18, 2016 - 04:32 PM

Perfect..  That is good to know.



#35 miller_time ONLINE  

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Posted November 19, 2016 - 11:41 AM

Looking good. I have a couple different exhaust manifolds i could make you a good deal on if that one you have won't work.
5dc785cc1d8d0ab91c3ee1b7b23d7d23.jpg

289faa72ace2295ae4b5dcf4704216e6.jpg

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#36 pryan05 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 20, 2016 - 07:51 PM

So I have completed the PTO stand off.  It was a bit of a pain it the butt, especially without lath to make bushings.  But I managed with hand tools.  I had open up the hole on the back of the magnet portion of the clutch to allow room for the bushing between the back of the PTO stub and driven part of the clutch.  That bushing was made to set proper clearance once everything was tightened up.

pto d722
pto
pto stand off
I also got the radiator in, it should work nice.  I am going to make a shroud to go around it
rad for lgt
rad mock up

Mocked it up.  Its going to be a bit of work.

 


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#37 skyrydr2 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 22, 2016 - 05:02 AM

Ryan, if you want a rear pto on that you will need to modify your bell housing on the left side.It looks really nice so far.
The factory pto on mine works sooo perfect I cant believe it still. Only thing that could make it better is having the output end 1"-15 splined!
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#38 pryan05 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 22, 2016 - 03:41 PM

Thanks Keith,  That is good to know.  I don't have the shaft or any rear implements (yet).  I'm getting excited for the click-clack of the the little diesel. 



#39 Cvans OFFLINE  

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Posted November 22, 2016 - 04:49 PM

 I'm getting excited for the click-clack of the the little diesel. 

 

And don't forget the wonderful aroma.  :thumbs:


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#40 pryan05 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 27, 2016 - 03:26 PM

Got it running today.  The rad was a lot of work, the shroud and mounts and to get it to all line up

lgt rad

Mounted  the fuel filter were the deck lift valve used to be.  The water pump belt was interfering with the lower rad outlet thus I had to move the alternator mounting points

glt rad
The lower rad hose had to routed around the back of the radiator I made a home made 90 out of 3/4" pipe and joined the lowere rad hose to a piece of 1" hose.  
lgt rad
It started right up, the deck lift works and it drives back and forth.  I'm a little worried about having air lock in the rad because only the top of the rad was really warm.  Something to look into.  You can also see the Frankenstein air intake pipe that I made out of the intake pipes that were on the welding machine.  I'll glue it together with windshield urethane that I have kicking around.   The charging system is working I just need to connect the field wire to the ignition.  I have to tachometer that I would like get working if anybody has an idea how to connect it to a Kubota charging system let me know.  

 


Edited by pryan05, November 27, 2016 - 04:12 PM.

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#41 skyrydr2 OFFLINE  

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Posted November 28, 2016 - 06:00 AM

For the tach you need to get a special marine alternator with tach capabilities i think? Mine would be machanicly driven off the front timing cover just ahead of the injector pump.
I never had the chance to see the electrical versions on a Kubota yet.
Just found something that might just work for both of us lol.
Faria 4" Tachometer - 4,000 RPM (Diesel - Mechanical Takeoff & Var Ratio Alt) - Chesapeake Black SS https://www.amazon.c...a_I9apyb38JJ51D

Edited by skyrydr2, November 28, 2016 - 06:12 AM.

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#42 pryan05 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 03, 2016 - 04:08 PM

I finished to battery mount today. Installed it in front of the radiator.  I is a tight squeeze because there is only 3/4" between the rad and the battery.  I hope there is enough room for proper cooling.  I also went for the first ride on it, with no fenders or any of the front steel.  I was sitting on the fuel tank from the welding machine it was great but I only made it 25 feet before the motor died.  It got a big drink of water that was in the bottom of the tank.  It time to start planning the proper fuel tank that I will build into the fender like skyrydr2 did.


Edited by pryan05, December 03, 2016 - 04:10 PM.


#43 Cvans OFFLINE  

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Posted December 03, 2016 - 05:02 PM

   Are you sure there is a tractor under there somewhere  :D 

   It's amazing how congested things get under the hood on projects like this.

I have a suggestion you may want to consider. I found that it works out best to put the air intake in front of the radiator for two reasons. First there will be less dirt and debris there and you will be intaking cooler air. Did this on several of my projects and it worked out good. The Kubota G 3200 through G6200's came this way and the air filters stayed pretty clean. 


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#44 pryan05 OFFLINE  

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Posted December 03, 2016 - 06:42 PM

That's what I was kinda thinking about cold air for the intake.  I already mounted the air canister and there is no room in front of the rad because of the battery location.  So what I was thinking of doing is running a hose from the air canister to in front of the rad.  You can see the pipe that I made out of what came out of the welder.  Gave it a bit of Canadian touch, finished it with hockey tape.

air filter
Thank you for the feed back.  I also got it running again after its drink of water.  
Here is a picture of the battery mount and location.
battery

Its coming along!


Edited by pryan05, December 03, 2016 - 06:44 PM.

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#45 Cvans OFFLINE  

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Posted December 03, 2016 - 06:59 PM

Its coming along!

 

It sure is. From what I can see it looks good too. Can you stand back a ways and take some photos. Sorry for the demands but your project is very interesting.

The intake hose on the kubota is the the only thing in front of the radiator like you were thinking. I've done it both ways and it works fine. 

Keep up the good work. 


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