I have a couple questions regarding the 1050 worm gear driven transmission. I've heard several variants of the 'will it roll' explanation, but would like to clear it up. I have a tractor that will roll if the transmission is in neutral and I rock the tractor (discovered this accidentally). I know it's not the end play adjustment, because I have no issues with slipping under load or anything. Thinking about this intuitively, this makes sense to me, because force can only be applied until something gives... and the first thing to 'give' when stressed should be the worm gear reacting to the force by rotating. I've heard several fellow tube frame owners with this experience; then again, I've seen a lot of discussion saying that rolling is ALWAYS evidence of a damaged transmission.
At our dealership, we sold many new gear-drive, tube-frame tractors. .....NONE of them would roll with the free-wheeling pin engaged. ......On used tractors which came in for repair, some would roll with the pin engaged. ......On these tractors, we would adjust the rear axle end-play, and approx. 95% of the times, this would correct the symptom. ......The approx. 5% which would still roll had either bigger problems or a lot of wear internally. .....In some cases, repairs were not justified until failure occurred.
Bolens recommended periodic adjustment of the axle end play to prevent problems.
Can some of you chime in with your experiences? I'm sure our 30-50 year old tractors have some transmission wear -- there's no free lunch -- but I'm not so convinced that that being able to get the worm gear spinning while the transmission is in neutral is that big of a deal. In my case, this tractor can still just about push a house off its foundation, so I'm not overly concerned.
Also, I believe the oil specification on this trans is straight SAE 90 gear oil. But what is the range of acceptable? Does it have to be GL-1, GL-4? Does 80w90 work as well as SAE 90?
If you are on flat ground, the rolling in neutral is not a big issue if it does not "skip" under load.
However, working on slopes may present a problem.
As to gear lube, SAE 90, 80-85-90, 80w90, are all acceptable.
You can use whatever you choose to put in (or leave out of) the transaxle, but there may be consequences for poor choices. .....Some of the synthetic gear lubes will attack "yellow" metals (brass & bronze). .....The rate of deterioration may be a subject of debate, but why accept any degradation if you can avoid it ?? .....That is why GL-1 is suggested.
I have personally witnessed 2 different gear lubes attack brass worm wheels in gearboxes (industrial equipment). .....I did some research, and that was when I learned from Valvoline (a lubricant manufacturer) about incompatibility of some lubes and yellow metals.