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Went and looked at this Economy this afternoon


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#31 secondtry OFFLINE  

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Posted October 22, 2016 - 11:03 AM

i got a 2414 steel hood, with hydro lift, dual transmissions, 3 point, 2 decks a rough 5 footer and a descent 4 footer, working on getting the mule drive, needs put back together and the tranny cover welded $750 takes it

Got Pictures/Location. Don



#32 MNGB ONLINE  

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Posted October 22, 2016 - 06:49 PM

Hi, worked on the 49 today, drained the differential and final drives, flushed all of them used my supereye usb camera to check out the pinion and ring gear they both looked good could see any rust on the gears there was a minute  amount of rust on the carrier, and what drained out of the final drives was some nasty stuff, got the gearboxs serviced for now, started to check the engine over have gotten spark yet did remove the cylinder head and was very happy with the looks of the bore its in very nice condition no rust no scoring piston is nice and tight in the bore. removed the engine from the tractor to get the clutch out and loosened up it was stuck pretty good to both the flywheel and pressure plated, the gas tank is in very rust condition I have others so will not even mess with this one.

 

HPIM1265.JPG HPIM1266.JPG HPIM1267.JPG HPIM1270.JPG HPIM1269.JPG HPIM1268.JPG


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#33 Cvans ONLINE  

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Posted October 22, 2016 - 07:43 PM

Been enjoying your progress and photos. Thanks for keeping us in the loop. 


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#34 classic ONLINE  

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Posted October 22, 2016 - 09:33 PM

The splines on the clutch disc look pretty uniform, so it looks like a good cleaning and your all set with that. The friction material even looks good which seems to be common on these. Are there deep depressions worn on the pressure plate fingers? If so, weld em' up now while it's out. The bore does look real good, but it's a good time to install new rings and measure the crank journal. NOS standard connecting rods are cheap and will tighten up the clearance a bit if needed. It would be best to reseat the valves and set the lash to spec, too. If you were my neighbor, I would bring my valve seat cutter over along with a couple of new valves and we could do a valve job on it while shooting the breeze, HA! Parts are cheap and these engines are so simple that it makes them fun to work on. Take the Magnamatic coil assembly off of the block completely. You can just reinstall it using the outline on the backplate instead of having to retime it. Leave the hub with the magnets on the crankshaft and just clean it and the coil mount completely. Those surfaces need to shine! Wipe a thin coat of gear oil on the magnet surface and coil mount to help stave future rusting. It is possible that the coil is bad, but it may not be. The replacement part number is 290880 if you need one. I just cleaned a Magnamatic ignition which wouldn't spark last weekend. This was on the 1954 PE75 Signal Corps generator that I picked up with a Briggs 23BP. There was some spotty rust on the magnet surface and coil mount and that was the culprit. It's the original coil from 1954 made by Acme Mold, and has the braided waterproof coil wire and spark plug. I was surprised the coil fired, and thought that I would surely have to replace it. That Briggs 23bp now runs and sounds like a new engine. We'll it looks like you made a great buy after seeing things torn apart. It won't take much to get it rolling now! By reading some of your posts, I can tell that you are well aware of the things that I've mentioned above. I just figured that I would mention how I go about things in case you could benefit from it. Good luck!

Edited by classic, October 22, 2016 - 09:38 PM.

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#35 MNGB ONLINE  

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Posted October 22, 2016 - 10:36 PM

Hi classic thanks for the replies and advise, yea it sure would be nice if we were a bit closer, I checked the availability and price of a new coil and its not bad so if all else fails I'll get a new one, like your saying I'm thinking its rust causing the problem for now. My plan is to get the engine running reassemble the tractor and drive it around some and then completely tear it down and paint is and repair anything that shows up.



#36 classic ONLINE  

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Posted October 22, 2016 - 10:56 PM

You're welcome GB. Fun stuff getting these old machines going again. Good idea on running it around a bit before the final tear down. Check the bull gears closely at the keyway slots for cracks. I believe that an early Economy tractor will have the smaller hump above the keyway cut in the bull gear. The keyway cut in an axle that I have was hogged out from years of use, so I'm sure that contributed to the crack forming. I mention the issues that I come across for a simple heads up. If you run into any problems that I have an answer for, I'll be sure to mention it here. I get a kick out of this stuff.
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#37 MNGB ONLINE  

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Posted October 24, 2016 - 01:37 PM

Hi didn't get much done with the Economy this AM, washed the engine down and tested the mag coil and it seems to be shorted so will order a new one, cleaned the clutch up and its good splines are very good the flywheel and pressure plate and the friction disc all cleaned up good. Tink I may make an alignment shaft to reassemble the clutch.


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#38 classic ONLINE  

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Posted October 24, 2016 - 04:33 PM

Good news on the clutch. You may want to change out the pilot bushing in the flywheel. This helps support the transmission input shaft. It puts less stress on the input shaft ball bearing, too. I just installed a new pilot bushing in the flywheel of my Junkyard PK with a Briggs 23 on it. I believe the dimensions were 1/2" id. by 1" od. by 1" long. There is also a seal that but's up to the pilot bushing. I believe it's there to keep dust away from the bushing and trans input shaft. The old bushing was pretty worn out in my flywheel. Just something to think about GB. Oh, you can just use your transmission to align the clutch disc. If you haven't removed the trans from the driveshaft tube, this would be the time to do it and inspect the splined coupling on the trans tailshaft. Here's a pic of the new pilot bushing installed, and you can see that the old one was shot.

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#39 MNGB ONLINE  

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Posted October 24, 2016 - 05:35 PM

Hi, thanks classic yea I'll take it down and replace the bushing as you say it, supports the input shaft, Waa hoo its got spark I did as classic advised and removed the mag assy cleaned it up got rid of much rust as could checked it over and reinstalled the mag and flywheel temp bolted the start cup on wound up the start rope and gave it a pull just about flipped the engine off the tractor on to the floor managed to catch it  so I installed a couple of mount bolts and gave it another try had intermediate spark cleaned the points again and it has spark, so that is good, to my dismay the exhaust chamber has rusted thur  near the muffler threads, I tried to fill it with braze hopefully it will hold just has to keep the hot gases from shotting out there rather then going out the muffler. Tomorrow I'll clean the carb and reinstall the cyl head and install a gas tank and see if it will run.


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#40 classic ONLINE  

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Posted October 24, 2016 - 06:51 PM

Well that's some good news, and you're welcome! You may be good to go with the coil,but if it fires intermittently when you try to start it,or it only pops or breaks up, the coil may be weak and may need to be replaced. A Briggs model 14fb with the Magnamatic ignition about drove me nuts. It had good spark, but would only fire once when the flywheel bounced back on the compression stroke. I swapped the coil out and the engine ran fine on the first pull. Just thought I'd share that, but I'm keeping my fingers crossed. Thin rusty cooling fins, holes rusted through exhaust ports, and rusted away muffler threads can be found on these old Briggs engines. I'm always on the lookout for good Briggs model 23 blocks since I've run into these problems. Alot of interchanging can be done between the different Briggs 23 series engines. You just have to be aware of the type of ignition system you have, since the type of ignition dictates what crank, cam, points, coil, and flywheel you use. Once you get familiar with the different types, you recognize what you can and can't do with what you have and what's available.
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#41 tiretrx OFFLINE  

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Posted October 25, 2016 - 08:49 AM

You're making some good progress. Love following projects like this, thanks for sharing!


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#42 MNGB ONLINE  

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Posted October 25, 2016 - 05:48 PM

Hi, today was a fun day, worked on the carb it was so corroded it wouldn't come apart so I ended making a carb from parts of three got one together checked it for leakis and it checked out installed it on the engine and wouldn't you it being a Flojet it started to leak. installed the cylinder head the flywheel housing and a gas tank cleaned gapped and tested the spark plug and installed it and tried to start the engine got a couple of pops but no go> So pulled the spark plug out squirted some gas in reinstalled the SP gave it a try and it fired off and ran poorly but it was running got the main jet set and it took off and runs as it should  SO the old 23 lives again run it about 20 mins at varying R's, stopped it and started it a couple of times and it started very good.

 

HPIM1271.JPG HPIM1272.JPG HPIM1273.JPG Attached File  HPIM1274.MPG   4.94MB   15 downloads


Edited by MNGB, October 25, 2016 - 10:14 PM.

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#43 Merle013 ONLINE  

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Posted October 25, 2016 - 06:07 PM

Good to here you got it running without too much trouble.


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#44 classic ONLINE  

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Posted October 25, 2016 - 10:11 PM

Excellent!!
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#45 tiretrx OFFLINE  

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Posted October 26, 2016 - 07:14 AM

That's awesome! Such a great feeling when you bring one back to life. I see the old castings starting to soak up some oil, bringing out the orange. Cool.


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