Following the manual as best as I can on this. I want to thank the site for having the manuals! As long as I was putting the deck back on, I decided to remove the rigged up brackets I made a few years ago and hang the bungee up that kept the mower blade brake on.. I fixed the front spindle on the mower. So now on to making the deck work right..
I think I have the on/off for the blades right (maybe) but can't get the blade brake to work right. The lower the deck, the better it works. For my rough lawn I like the deck one notch from the top or all the to the top. Otherwise it scalps. But when I place the deck in the latter positions, the the on/off lever is harder to move and the blade brake does not work even though I can feel the detent in the on/off lever.
For adjustment, I lowered the deck to the lowest hole and the tractor lever all the way down. I moved the over center rod as far forward as it would go (without forcing it) while I had 5/8" spacer under the attachment drive lever (turns the blades on/off). I used a truck hitch pin that just happened to be 5/8" The trunnion rod had a bend in it by the over center bracket. Looking in the manual, it looked like it was supposed to be straight. So I straightened it.
In this position, I could somewhat move between on/off on the driver lever. It took a great deal of force though. I finally realized there is an adjustment for the over center rod. I backed out the nut to about 3-7/8", which is what I think the manual says. Works better! Much easier to move the lever.
When the lever is in the off position, I assume the brake pad should be tight against the center pulley? I adjusted all the way in, and it's not. I can force the lever down more and hold with a bungee, but that's not how I want it to operate..anymore. There is some pad there, but around 1/8". I might be able to add washers to the spring to gain more tension. What you guys think?
Edited by GilsonRider, October 16, 2016 - 05:41 PM.