Jump to content

Nominations for Tractor of the Month
Garden Tractors and Parts on eBay



Photo
- - - - -

Travel trailer repurpose


  • Please log in to reply
34 replies to this topic

#16 poncho62 OFFLINE  

poncho62
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 42
  • 631 Thanks
  • 1,219 posts
  • Location: Hanover, Ont, Canada

Posted October 11, 2016 - 06:07 PM

I built this one a few years ago, has served me well. A medium sized car will fit on it too.

 

landscapretrailer002Medium.jpg

 

Nov1609005Medium.jpg

 

LandscapeTrailerFin018Medium.jpg

 


  • Gtractor, Alc, KennyP and 7 others have said thanks

#17 js5020 OFFLINE  

js5020

    Member

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 7086
  • 541 Thanks
  • 677 posts
  • Location: PA

Posted October 11, 2016 - 08:24 PM

Looks like a nice build!



#18 js5020 OFFLINE  

js5020

    Member

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 7086
  • 541 Thanks
  • 677 posts
  • Location: PA

Posted October 11, 2016 - 08:36 PM

Camper frames pretty thin light stuff. Maybe a real old one is better?  I think a smaller trailer for say two ATV's might work, but thinking kind of light for four and that length. I think the camper structure itself was part of the strength factor when these were built. To keep lighter, use good outdoor 3/4" plywood, tongue and groove, like the lawn sheds made now days use for floors. Won't last forever, but should last long time and be lighter than any 2 x ? material.

I'm quickly coming to that realization,, 4 quads are going to be a bit much weight wise at a 3K capacity.  2 or 3 are going to be the limit as long as I can keep the trailer weight under 1K.  Its ok as I can still put one in the box of the truck.  I'll keep that plywood in mind for the floor covering, I suppose quads really don't need 2x lumber.



#19 JBRamsey OFFLINE  

JBRamsey
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 61995
  • 971 Thanks
  • 586 posts
  • Location: North Carolina

Posted October 11, 2016 - 10:29 PM

Let's think about camper trailers. They don't get a lot of extra weight added to them when they are used. Clothes, bedding, food, a couple of bicycles, propane tanks, cold beer. That's about it, maybe 500 pounds extra is loaded when the trailer is used. As thin as camper sides and roofs are, I would not expect they factor significantly into the strength calculations of the frame. They also move as the trailer rolls down the road. They are designed to flex. If they were built rigid enough to not flex, they would be so heavy you couldn't tow them.

Campers are not designed to haul the concentrated load of a car or tractor--three or four thousand pounds on four wheel ends is pretty significant. Basically the crossmembers have to be strong enough to carry what is effectively a point load and get it transferred to the adjoining members and rails. A camper has to support a person walking through it and that's when the trailer is stationary.

Your flooring will increase the section modulus, but my engineering days are too far behind me to determine how much.

I would stay away from plywood. If you want lighter, I'd use 5/4 pressure treated deck boards. If you bugger one up, it's easier to replace.
  • Gtractor and js5020 have said thanks

#20 shorty ONLINE  

shorty

    Member

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Member No: 6172
  • 3,520 Thanks
  • 3,913 posts
  • Location: Lancaster County Pa

Posted October 12, 2016 - 05:12 AM

I totally agree with the 5/4 treated. That is what I see used a lot for the lighter trailers. It is usually on the 8-10K trailer that the 2X is used.
  • js5020 said thank you

#21 poncho62 OFFLINE  

poncho62
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 42
  • 631 Thanks
  • 1,219 posts
  • Location: Hanover, Ont, Canada

Posted October 12, 2016 - 05:14 AM

With my trailer (above), the 2 side rails were quite hefty while the cross braces were just thin angle iron. As you can see in the 2nd pic, I added quite a few heavier cross pieces, Then used 2x10 pressure treated as floor boards. 


  • js5020 said thank you

#22 js5020 OFFLINE  

js5020

    Member

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 7086
  • 541 Thanks
  • 677 posts
  • Location: PA

Posted October 12, 2016 - 12:09 PM

I would add more crossmembers currently they look like 3 or 4ft centers which would not be enough for much of anything. I have been thinking of the concept of point loading, as a camper the load would have been distributed over the whole frame whereas hauling quads the load would be placed at just the 4 points where the tires meet the bed, since this trailer would be for a specific purpose I would add structure to compensate for the point loads.  All my quads are class 1, 48" so just 2x where the tires run would suffice and fill in the rest with 5/4, expanded metal or nothing.  I suppose I could lose one of the axles to get the unlaiden weight down and since we would only have a capacity of 3K, I am thinking the best option would be to keep the braked axle? 


  • Mark 149 J. said thank you

#23 JBRamsey OFFLINE  

JBRamsey
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 61995
  • 971 Thanks
  • 586 posts
  • Location: North Carolina

Posted October 12, 2016 - 09:36 PM

I've worked with trailers that did not have a full floor before. It's begging for you to step off the edge of the decking, especially in the dark. Plus, it makes the trailer essentially have only one purpose. You won't be able to use it for hauling much anything else.
  • js5020 said thank you

#24 SupplySergeant OFFLINE  

SupplySergeant

    Eggman's Dad

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Member No: 45293
  • 1,079 Thanks
  • 655 posts
  • Location: Harrodsburg, KY

Posted October 13, 2016 - 02:26 PM

I had one exactly like what poncho62 started with. I just bolted down rough-cut 8/4 oak from a sawmill as a deck, and hauled everything from farm tractors, skidsteers and cars to rolls of hay on it. It had main rails of 6"x3" channel, and 5" wide formed cross rails. My FIL still hauls 7000lbs + of hay on it regularly.


  • limebuzz and js5020 have said thanks

#25 js5020 OFFLINE  

js5020

    Member

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 7086
  • 541 Thanks
  • 677 posts
  • Location: PA

Posted November 09, 2016 - 10:33 PM

Well we have made progress on this project.  I have managed to transport the victim the 15 miles from its resting place to the shop. I spent the last 2 days removing the camper stuff.  This camper was fairly well built, even in its deteriorated condition it put up a good fight coming apart.  I was surprised with the amount of aluminum used, all sides and the entire bottom, most of the roof was galvanized.  Current size of the trailer is 7.5' x 17', the frame rails are 2" x 4" box tubing and the A frame is 2" x 6" box tube, and all frame metal is solid no rust damage.  I thought it only had 1 braked axle but it turns out both axles are braked and using 15" car tires.  Crossmembers are pretty skimpy and widely spaced.  I have a few jobs in front of this project but even if the weather turns bad I am in position to roll it into the shop and start on the modifications and upgrades.


  • poncho62, Alc, KennyP and 2 others have said thanks

#26 poncho62 OFFLINE  

poncho62
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 42
  • 631 Thanks
  • 1,219 posts
  • Location: Hanover, Ont, Canada

Posted November 10, 2016 - 06:10 AM

Pics when you get to it.................


  • js5020 and SupplySergeant have said thanks

#27 toppop52 ONLINE  

toppop52
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 54420
  • 3,449 Thanks
  • 3,359 posts
  • Location: Lower Eastern Shore of Maryland

Posted November 10, 2016 - 09:37 AM

Sounds like you're making progress, keep us posted.

I'm getting ready to built a utility trailer from a tandem boat trailer, I'll start a thread once I get it here.


  • KennyP and js5020 have said thanks

#28 js5020 OFFLINE  

js5020

    Member

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 7086
  • 541 Thanks
  • 677 posts
  • Location: PA

Posted November 10, 2016 - 10:05 AM

Got a little better look at things this morning, frame rails are 2x4, a- frame is 2x5 not 2x6 I'm gonna go with 11ga material thickness.  The axles aren't straight they are drops which lowers the load height to 20", not sure if this is good or bad at this stage?  It has a 202" load area with a 42" drawbar for a total length of 242", 64" between the frame rails.  Only issue I see at this point is the tandems are not located in the best of spots for hauling atv's, they are to far forward to get 2 atv's in front of the tandems, looks like I might need to move them a bit to make it so I have only one atv dealing with the tandem.

 

I have found pics of a trailer that interests me,  http://echotrailers....9-13-Elite.html  it's a little longer than what I have, might need to lengthen things a bit along with the other modifications/upgrades I have in mind.  These trailers run in the 4000- 4700 buc range so I have lots of room coin wise for the build.

 

I'll see if we still have a camera around that I can use to take pics of the build as I go.


  • toppop52 said thank you

#29 JBRamsey OFFLINE  

JBRamsey
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 61995
  • 971 Thanks
  • 586 posts
  • Location: North Carolina

Posted November 10, 2016 - 01:40 PM

There's a rule of thumb for axle location relative to the trailer length. It think it's about 2/3 back, but I'm not sure. I would expect the original trailer frame was built to the right specs.

I would do my research before moving the axles. You don't want to get the weight distribution off and it could be fun getting them aligned properly and keep the trailer from running doglegged.
  • js5020 said thank you

#30 js5020 OFFLINE  

js5020

    Member

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 7086
  • 541 Thanks
  • 677 posts
  • Location: PA

Posted November 10, 2016 - 02:08 PM

There's a rule of thumb for axle location relative to the trailer length. It think it's about 2/3 back, but I'm not sure. I would expect the original trailer frame was built to the right specs.

I would do my research before moving the axles. You don't want to get the weight distribution off and it could be fun getting them aligned properly and keep the trailer from running doglegged.

That is what I have always seen as far as single axle location also, not sure what a tandem is or if its different.  The trailer I'm looking at to copy definitely has the tandem further back as atvs are roughly 48 wide and 2 of them are forward of the tandem.  Moving the tandems is easy as the original mounts are already there,, just slide em back the same distance both sides.






Top