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Fall and winter fertilizer, over seeding

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#1 Dave S OFFLINE  

Dave S
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Posted October 08, 2016 - 08:30 AM

Looking for some help with on when to apply either fall and winter fertilizer and over seeding grass seed or weed and feed fall and winter blend. Not sure which I'm going to do but I had alot of crabgrass and creeping charlie this year and it killed out alot of patches of grass. I'm located in south centeral WI to give you an idea on temprature conditions. Thinking I may dethatch and ariate before doing this, also what about leaf clean-up after this is done? Thanks, Dave S

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#2 JBRamsey OFFLINE  

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Posted October 08, 2016 - 09:48 AM

I would think you are too late for your area but I don't know.

I rake up any leaves that have dropped. Aerate heavy. Lime. Fall fertilizer. Fescue and some rye. I try and do mine in mid to late September. I do winterizer just before Thanksgiving depending on the weather.

In the spring hit it with crabgrass preventer. I do it two times--the second about six weeks after the first. Later I use a selective herbicide like Bayer or Ortho for weeds and crabgrass. As I am outside each day, I take a couple of minutes and pull by hand anything that pops up.

You can't let leaves lay on your new grass. It will kill it out.

Also you can't do weed and feed and overseed at the same time. Reseed in the fall and start your weed battle next spring.

Go to the Scott's website and signup. You will get updates based on your zip code telling you what to do when. I resisted Scott's for years but it works.

In my experience it takes three years to get a yard into shape. Good luck.
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#3 chieffan ONLINE  

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Posted October 08, 2016 - 10:41 AM

A lot of the information from Scott's, Earl May, etc. is for town/city size yards.  Their products work but one cannot afford their stuff when you have 1.5 A yard .  I go to the local fertilizer company, like Crop Production Services, and get what I need in the bulk.  Usually go with what they recommend.  They can analyze a soil sample for you also.  Get it in 5 gal plastic pails.  Takes about 6 to do the whole yard.  For the weed control I spray.  Use a tank on the back of a tractor with the 5' boom mounted out front with 4 nozzles.  Mounted right above the wheels and directed forward.  Can control it around shrubs, etc. but need a quit morning or evening. 

#4 Eric OFFLINE  

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Posted October 08, 2016 - 12:43 PM

I live in central wisconsin, our Sandy soil makes this even more difficult than normal but is possible. Took about three years as said to get grass that is thick and full enough that no sand gets through. As stated above you need to first get your leaves picked up then you can start. Aeration is difficult here and a core aerator will not work as well. I use a spike aerator and power dethatcher. Do not do both at the same time as you will over tax your lawn. Try aeration and lay fertilizer this fall, next spring fertilize again and you will be on your way. A dethatcher should not even be in your thoughts until you have a lawn that is thick enough that it resembles a carpet, that minimal thatch layer you have currently is helping the grass and roots and holding moisture so they have time to grow and feed. This is a long process and so many people think they can just get all the tools and fertilizer use them and presto they have a lawn, this is only going to hurt your chances, go slow and you will see the benefit!

#5 Cat385B OFFLINE  



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Posted October 08, 2016 - 12:50 PM

Winterizer fertilizer now. Weed and feed in the spring, with crabgrass preventer. Grass seed next August.