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Farms Growing Again (got land)


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#31 BTS OFFLINE  

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Posted October 13, 2016 - 10:36 PM

Today I made a adjustment lever to pull the pen, I also got half of it painted. I'm hoping to finish the paint tomorrow and then I'm going to add on a cylinder and wheels.

 

I also used a sanding wheel on the angle grinder and I knocked off the heavy rust.

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  • IH #60 Plow 014.jpg
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  • IH #60 Plow 012.jpg
  • IH #60 Plow 011.jpg

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#32 BTS OFFLINE  

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Posted October 14, 2016 - 10:13 PM

I finished painting the plow, I'm going to get the tires on it tomorrow when the paint is dry. I'm hoping to take it out this weekend and get the 4 acres plowed under.

 

I have a local guy coming over to my new land tomorrow afternoon with his skidsteer and jackhammer attachment. He is going to turn a big piece of concrete in to little pieces :thumbs:

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  • Plow Farm Land 012.jpg
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  • Plow Farm Land 015.jpg
  • Plow Farm Land 016.jpg

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#33 adamjd200 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 14, 2016 - 10:32 PM

We never painted our moldboards, they would get surface rust, but would shine up within the first pass or so.  We plow with a Farmall 706 and a 4bottom, 14" trailer plow, it's an IH with English bottoms (separate shear an point).


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#34 BTS OFFLINE  

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Posted October 14, 2016 - 10:33 PM

I went over and looked at the land that I am leasing, I snapped a few pictures while I was there and I also looked at a disk that he might be interested in selling me. It's around 12 to 14', which would be a lot nicer then my 7' which doesn't have wheels under it.

The disk is in a hedge row so I couldn't get to close to it, I'm hoping to talk to him next week and see what he wants for it.

 

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  • Plow Farm Land 002.jpg
  • Plow Farm Land 003.jpg
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#35 BTS OFFLINE  

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Posted October 14, 2016 - 10:44 PM

We never painted our moldboards, they would get surface rust, but would shine up within the first pass or so.  We plow with a Farmall 706 and a 4bottom, 14" trailer plow, it's an IH with English bottoms (separate shear an point)

 

I shined up the molboards with a sanding wheel on the grinder to get rid of the thick rust. I didn't bother painting the whole moldboard because I knew it would be gone on the first pass. I hope my IH 400 pulls this  fairly easy.

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#36 Cvans ONLINE  

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Posted October 14, 2016 - 11:08 PM

Check the bearings on that disc before committing yourself to it. The best way is to raise it up and look at them. I didn't and regretted it later. Replacing bearings and disc's on one of those can get costly in a hurry and be a lot of work. 

Good luck on your purchase. 


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#37 BTS OFFLINE  

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Posted October 15, 2016 - 07:59 AM

Check the bearings on that disc before committing yourself to it. The best way is to raise it up and look at them. I didn't and regretted it later. Replacing bearings and disc's on one of those can get costly in a hurry and be a lot of work. 

Good luck on your purchase. 

 

I'm going to pull it out and look at it. He said I can put tires and a cylinder on it and use it whenever I need it. Maybe I will hook up to it and give it a test before buying. It does have greasable bearings which is a perk. He bought the disk at a local auction probably 15 years ago and never used it because it was to small for his tractor. He kept it around in case he got a smaller tractor but never did.

 

The reason I'm interested is, it's the perfect size for my 400 and it's only 2 miles away. All the disk I find on CL are at least 30 miles and it's hard to haul something 14' wide for that far.


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#38 BTS OFFLINE  

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Posted October 15, 2016 - 11:17 PM

FINALLY THE CONCRETE IS GONE!

 

I hired a local guy in town to get rid of the concrete, he brought a dump truck, skid steer, pallet forks, bucket and a hammer. It wasn't a jackhammer (although he has one) but it was a hammer of a sort, he would roll back the hammer so it would bounce and while the hammer went up then he would drop the loader and hit the concrete with a lot of force. After hitting the big piece of concrete for about 3 minutes, he then put the forks on and picked up on one side of the concrete. The concrete then fell into two pieces, he used the hammer again to break loose the rebar holding the two pieces together, then he was able to lift each half into his truck.

 

It took him a hour to get it all loaded and his truck was full when he was done. He also pushed up the metal junk and then he pushed up a small brush pile.

 

It only cost me $160 and he hauled off the concrete, I thought it was a fairly good deal. Since my other option was a sledge hammer.

 

 

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  • Field Clean up 005.jpg
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  • Field Clean up 012.jpg
  • Field Clean up 011.jpg
  • Field Clean up 016.jpg

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#39 BTS OFFLINE  

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Posted October 15, 2016 - 11:25 PM

Funny, when you start working with a nicely painted Farmall 400, all the other Internationals start to gather around!

 

A IH collector stopped by (lives 2 blocks away) with his 656 to see what was going on and if I needed help!. I was just finishing up so I didn't take him up on his offer, we talked tractors for about 45 minutes and then we both went on our way.

 

Sorry for the lousy picture, I snapped the photo from a fair distance

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  • Field Clean up 017.jpg

Edited by BTS, October 15, 2016 - 11:25 PM.

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#40 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted October 16, 2016 - 05:24 AM

Glad the concrete is gone.


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#41 BTS OFFLINE  

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Posted October 16, 2016 - 10:11 PM

I got the wheels on the plow and I towed it into town. My brother helped me pick up the rest of the pipe that was laying out there.

We started out with the plow and it wouldn't do anything. Either the back plow would sink in all the way and the first plow would be skidding on the ground. Or the first plow would be berried and the back/middle plow would be skidding on the ground. No matter how we adjusted it it just wouldn't go in. All of the grass clippings would ball up under the plows and it would just skid on the ground.

 

The guy I bought the plow from said to put a few hundred pounds of wheel weights on it so I am going to give it a try.

 

Anyone have any thoughts?

 

(oh and that is me on the tractor)

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Edited by BTS, October 16, 2016 - 10:16 PM.


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Posted October 16, 2016 - 11:21 PM

There are a lot of variables in getting a plow to work right and I'm no expert. I pull a two bottom ground lift now and it took some serious adjusting to get it to work right.  You might have to spend some time changing things. Opening a field is the hardest because both rear tractor tires are level. After that one rear is running in the dead furrow which puts the plow lower. I've only run 3pt. and ground lift plows but never one like yours.

Hopefully someone will come along that can help you.


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#43 IHCubGuy ONLINE  

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Posted October 17, 2016 - 03:22 PM

The hand lever adjusts the furrow wheel on the plow and how far it lifts or lowers the point of the first bottom.  The lifting of the whole plow is done by the cylinder.  (I think this is obvious to you)  LOL!!  On the first round if it won't go in you can always try setting the furrow wheel in deeper so it goes in.  How sharp are your shares and how clean are your moldboards?  These things all affect how well it will go in.  I am sure some other guys will give some advise as well.  One thing I will add is don't run it too long with that rear moldboard chipped out or you will be replacing the frog to mount the next moldboard on.  Another thing I just noticed is that you might want to cut that long piece of rod off from that spindle you added so it doesn't hang up on the furrow wall when that tires in the furrow.  It could help catch things and ball them up.  As far as the grass making wads and hanging up on the plow a set of coulters will help with that.  If all else fails go to youtube and try to find a video on setting up a plow.  Don't know if there is any, but it could be helpful.  Or try and find a manual for a #60 or 70 IH plow.  That would be the best route I think.


Edited by IHCubGuy, October 17, 2016 - 03:28 PM.

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#44 BTS OFFLINE  

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Posted October 17, 2016 - 09:58 PM

Thanks for the info, I talked to a couple old farmers (one in his 70's and the other is 83) they both said to drop 600lbs of wheel weights on it to get it to sink in.

I did adjust the one furrow wheel higher so the plow will dig in better and the plow just road on top of the ground with the wheel 8" off the ground.
I really think the weights will do the job. I looked around for a manual and youtube videos. I didn't come up with anything. I also searched how to adjust the plow and I couldn't find anything on any other forums. Makes me think that there isn't to much to these old plows to get them working?

 

I'm going to get my brother to help me tomorrow and we are going to stack some weights on it.

I'll let everyone know what happens.
Thanks again



#45 IHCubGuy ONLINE  

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Posted October 17, 2016 - 10:30 PM

Here's a reprint of the original operators manual.  I have used these manuals before and they are pretty nice reprints of originals.

 

http://www.jensales....ors-manual.html

 

I don't disagree that weight will help, I've done it in the past but a properly setup plow shouldn't need it.

Good luck with it.






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