22 replies to this topic

[KA1J]

Sounds like I have a lot to learn. I was seeing my dash is very different than this 120 and when I looked at the manual I saw the Suburban series had the gear and Hydrostatic models. Since this one has less switches on the console and the toggle on the left is not in that place on mine, I figured it was a hydrostatic version.

 

Thanks for the info!

[ClassicBolens]

There were a considerable amount of ST series models and a lot of changes made to them over their long production run. This is where the model and serial number become very important for obtaining correct critical replacement parts. Fortunately in your case, the steering components are the same throughout the ST line.

[KA1J]

I understand.

 

I don't have a lot of space to put a parts tractor and will have to cover it well but not allowed to have any sheds or the like here. Even though I am at the end of a dead end and butt into the woods, its a place where I can only put it on "community property" and there were issues with people putting parts cars on community property and I guess this would be the same. So... I do have room for one parts tractor  but don't know if this one will be the right one. If the body were better, maybe this would be the right one, don't know. Will have to go see it, it's maybe 70 or so miles from here.

 

Nothing like having a good parts vehicle.  ;)

Edited by KA1J, October 09, 2016 - 11:07 AM.

[KA1J]

The plot sickens...

 

I bought the ST120 but the steering mechanisms are different. The steering shaft is different and the mating sector gear is different.

The ST110 gear is 1.109"

The ST120 gear is 1.198"

 

However, the distance is equal on both of them, between the Steering rod and the vertical shaft of the sector gear. I will just transfer the entire assembly from the donor 120 to the 110, it looks like the bolt pattern is the same The major difference is the gear size  is larger on the 120 and the end of play mechanism is different with the 120 utilizing an aluminum assembly with two elevated "bumps" that are end stops for the sector gear. On the ST110 there is a section of U channel that is bolted to the floor and each side of the "U" stops the sector gear.

 

I am having trouble though and need suggestions: I can not get the "Roll Pin" to come out of the steering wheel. It holds the  steering wheel to the steering rod (Why they didn't bolt the steering wheel on is beyond me). The OD of the hole is 1/4". I have put penetrating oil in both sides and ruined a drill bit that I was using to tap it out. It is seemingly frozen in place. 

 

How do you best remove this Roll Pin without drilling it out?

 

The other thing is I'm following the manual on how to remove the steering shaft. It says: 

 

"Remove retaining ring be from steering shaft this will allow the steering shaft to slide out of the steering support assembly shim washers and the thrust washer will fall out."

"With the steering shaft lose, pull up on the steering shaft until it clears the steering support assembly. Angle the shaft to either side of the steering support assembly to allow the shaft to slide through steering support. ( pull down on steering shaft)

 

 

I'm not getting it, there is no place for the shaft to go through that assembly. It seems like the only way that might happen would be to remove the assembly and maybe there's a large enough opening but it sure doesn't look like it from underneath. Here are a couple pictures of what I'm seeing.

 

ST110 Steering assembly

 

 

ST120 Steering Assembly

 

 

 

Neither of these will allow the gear to slide downwards, so how do you remove the steering shaft?

 

And how do I best remove that roll pin without drilling it out? It just isn't budging in the least.

 

Thanks!

 

Gary

Edited by KA1J, October 12, 2016 - 08:34 PM.

[ClassicBolens]

I forgot that the early ST's had the steel steering plate. No worries, it superseded to the later aluminum style. Same with the sector gear, they all supersede to the same part # 1747078 and will all interchange.

Steering wheel removal is always one of the most difficult problems to solve on our old machines. Lots of PB Blaster and even more patience. Use a punch approximately the same size as the roll pin. It will take a few good heavy blows to make the pin budge usually. Once you get it drove through and out, you'll likely need a smaller punch to remove the larger punch. Once you get it to this point, you've only conquered half the battle. The real trick is getting the steering wheel off of the shaft. More PB Blaster will be in order. You may have to get creative to get the wheel to budge. Some have had good success with a bearing splitter and puller, brute force and a lot of patience. There's not really a good way to get any leverage here, especially with the plastic dash and a plastic steering wheel.

To remove the steering shaft. Once the steering wheel is removed, it is almost easier to just unbolt the upper plastic dash support to give just enough room to pull the shaft up and out of the lower carrier. You'll have to cock it at an angle to get it to clear the dash, wiring and everything else in its path. Not a lot of room to work in there. I highly recommend that you thoroughly inspect all steering bushings and repair/replace them while you have this all apart. It is a frustrating job indeed but should reward you many years of trouble free service once it's done. Use anti-seize on the mating surface between the shaft and steering wheel when you re-assemble.

[KA1J]

LOL, I didn't see anything in the manual about removing the base to get the steering shaft out but that's what you have to do. Once I removed the clip & shims from the shaft, I raised it high and then held it in place, out of the way with vise grips. Don't have anyone to assist me so I had to think overtime... I jacked the tractor up in front and that made removing all the parts much easier. I went to Sears and got some proper roll pin punches, the ones with a nipple on the end. Using that let me get the roll pin out. I used Kroil to break the rust.

 

It's been a long day. Took much of the day to switch steering from  the ST120 to the ST110. I got it working beautifully and took the tractor around the house to be sure all was OK. Didn't tie down the battery, it was a short ride. Of course the battery slipped forward and the spinning fan cover ate into it like butter, spilling sulfuric acid onto & into the engine, ruining the battery. Trying to patch it with plastic epoxy & new sulfuric acid. Might work, if not, these batteries are $120 at Auto Zone....

 

Ran into the house & brought out two boxes of Baking soda, mixed it with some water and poured it on the engine. A lot of bubbling and a relocated battery later, the acid was neutralized. Of course now the tractor wouldn't start. Had to use a deep cycle battery to get it to start but eventually it did. Come to find out the spark plug wire leaks like crazy and even when dry, holding the cable & I get a shock. Spraying a basic solution with a mister all around the running engine and as soon as the plug wire gets wet, the engine stops.

 

I'm going to remove the upper fan shroud tomorrow and splice a better spark plug wire onto it & then cover the splice with a whole lot of teflon tape so it won't arc but then I'll have a good plug wire. Looking at the 12 HP B&S from the parts tractor, It looks like I can't just replace the wire like you can on a car, it's set well into the coil. 

 

But I took some photos of what I found with the steering gear and sector gear. They are different and the one from the ST110 is smaller height & width wise and has tapers on the top & bottom. The one from the 120 has far more substance though the Sector gears are identical on both and both gears have the same number of teeth and apparently the same taper. Its easy to see why I needed to do this swap when you see them side by side. In the first sector gear photo you can see the wear on the teeth. In the second photo you see an intact gear. I'll post the dimensions of the different steering shafts/gears tomorrow for someone later on who might find it helpful. 

 

The ST110 steering shaft is on the left.

 

There is wear on the sector gear which matches the wear on the ST110 steering gear on the left above.

 

 

This sector gear from the ST120 parts tractor is in great shape.

 

To make it easier, I transferred all the steering parts from the 120, Since the gear was larger, I figured the frame holding the sector gear and the steering rod might make a problem if I mixed them up. Perhaps all would fit but this way, all the parts bolted in just fine.

 

I'll post the measurements I took, later.

 

Gary

Edited by KA1J, October 14, 2016 - 07:03 AM.

[KA1J]

Here's the follow-up on the steering shaft differences between the ST110 and ST220

 

                             ST110      ST120

Length of shaft            25"           25"

Shaft Diameter           .75           .75

Shaft tip width             .62           .62

Shaft tip length            1.5"          1.5"

Diameter of gear         1.17"        1.2"

Height of gear             .928         1.00

top & bottom of gear   Beveled   Flat

# of teeth in gear         10            10    

 

As you can see by the photos in the post above, other than the obvious wear on the ST110 gear, the differences are the shape of the gear itself with the ST120 being rectangular and the ST110 having bevels on the top & bottom. The ST120 has a slightly wider and taller gear.

 

Not sure how this might help someone but this is what I measured.

 

Gary 

[Zekkjacen]

Not very Familiar with the ST models.  I have a 2000 Eliminator 5020H.

 

I did a post a couple years ago on removing play out of the steering for my tractor.

 

http://www.mytractor...eliminator.html

 

Sorry for the link to the external site, but I hope it helps.