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finally got the GT19 into the garage fo some work...


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#16 Billy M ONLINE  

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Posted October 05, 2016 - 02:29 PM

I should be able to do it, I have rebuilt starters and alternators before, but I sent starter #3 in to be done when I did because somehow I had a case of"all thumbs" at the time that I pulled that one apart and couldn't keep the spring loaded brushes back and slip the cap over the commutator part of the armature that day, and got frustrated.... not something I hadn't seen or done before that day....

Yep...That's the hardest part!  It can be frustrating...and rarely goes on the first try.



#17 jpackard56 OFFLINE  

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Posted October 05, 2016 - 05:35 PM

Holy-smokes, sounds like you've been visited by the nasty cloud that seems to hover over my shop !! except its a Ford truck engine all over the place with incorrectly mounted pistons...(another whole story)

 

For what its worth I think if you had the shorter one rebuilt and they did a respectable job it will probably spin the K II,

however it has been my experience the last few years anyway... that the newest replacement part/and or supposedly rebuilt electrical part is the one that fails AGAIN !

 

I'm hoping this smooths out for you and I think if ALL mice were to be removed from this planet (or at least from my shop and yours) things would go better for everybody. I have even allowed a 5ft bull snake to hang around this summer until he started eating momma's eggs in the hen-house...


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#18 dodge trucker OFFLINE  

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Posted October 09, 2016 - 12:00 PM

OK just returned from Ohio with a parts S16 and got its wiring harness though I haven't been through OK it yet to see if intact but if so there's the answers to the interloc/wiring headache that I have rrigged and jumpered around
It cost me more in gas + overnight stay in a motel but it has all the small pieces that I have bought piece by piece so far and even with the gas and motel that adds up to less than I spent on those pieces to date plus got a few more that I have been after.still coming up dry on attachments for these units though.


Edited by dodge trucker, October 10, 2016 - 07:36 AM.


#19 shorty ONLINE  

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Posted October 09, 2016 - 04:53 PM

Hopefully this one will make the others run like a charm.
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#20 dodge trucker OFFLINE  

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Posted October 09, 2016 - 06:08 PM

I will have 3 operable Ariens/NH tractors and this parts one as of tomorrow.
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#21 dodge trucker OFFLINE  

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Posted October 10, 2016 - 08:09 AM

Another question; I now have 3 hoods sitting here, besides the one that I threw away last week that was beyond being worth fixing. Including the one that came with the parts machine which at the moment is the best of them// the one that I threw out did appear to be fiberglass, looking at the busted out portions. I was just looking at one if my others that I have and it looks like some other sort of plastic, clearly not fiberglass.
This other hood is definitely fixable, what's it made out of? It seems like the older ones were fiberglass then they switched to something else.

Edited by dodge trucker, October 10, 2016 - 08:10 AM.


#22 Billy M ONLINE  

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Posted October 10, 2016 - 08:24 AM

Another question; I now have 3 hoods sitting here, besides the one that I threw away last week that was beyond being worth fixing. Including the one that came with the parts machine which at the moment is the best of them// the one that I threw out did appear to be fiberglass, looking at the busted out portions. I was just looking at one if my others that I have and it looks like some other sort of plastic, clearly not fiberglass.
This other hood is definitely fixable, what's it made out of? It seems like the older ones were fiberglass then they switched to something else.

Interesting.  I've never seen a hood on a GT or S that wasn't fiberglass...except the Grand Sierra of course.  Are there any broken portions on the mystery hoods?  I was wondering if there was any missing chunks to look for fiberglass strands, evidence, etc.



#23 dodge trucker OFFLINE  

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Posted October 10, 2016 - 09:40 AM

Yeah there's a wedge shaped piece gone from the one that I was looking at earlier and it isn't all stringy like fiberglass usually is that's why I'm asking
I know from messing with Apache campers which are ABS yet so many people think they are fiberglass. Thing is that using fiberglass repair materials on them will hold for a while but will delaminate and eventually peel off like a band aid so you have to do it again.

#24 Billy M ONLINE  

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Posted October 11, 2016 - 09:02 AM

Yeah there's a wedge shaped piece gone from the one that I was looking at earlier and it isn't all stringy like fiberglass usually is that's why I'm asking
I know from messing with Apache campers which are ABS yet so many people think they are fiberglass. Thing is that using fiberglass repair materials on them will hold for a while but will delaminate and eventually peel off like a band aid so you have to do it again.

That is interesting.  I have an fiberglass GT hood that was repaired with fiberglass that has a little delamination as well.  It's not bad though.  It had some poor prep work done on it.  Fiberglass likes a good rough or porous surface to adhere to.  I'm not sure there is a good way to make it adhere to ABS.  My electric Comutacar has an ABS body on it.  I've seen some bad repairs made on those also.  You can buy color-matched plastic chips for plastic welding.  I think that is the best way to repair ABS, but takes some special equipment.  There may be something better.  I'm by no means an ABS expert.  I'm used to working on rust!  :D



#25 dodge trucker OFFLINE  

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Posted October 11, 2016 - 09:29 AM

I'm not saying that it's ABS specifically just that different kinds of plastic do not take to the same kind of repair.
Now the hood on my GT19 that I threw away definitely looked like fiberglass in and among the damage as does the one on my most recent find, a S16h. But the one that I bought from a S18 looks different within its cracked and damaged spot.

#26 Billy M ONLINE  

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Posted October 11, 2016 - 10:08 AM

Hmmm...the hood that I have that has some delamination is from a GT18/K361.  That would be from the same time frame as your S18/K361, as Kohler only made those engines a few years, and that was the Ariens transition from the S series to GT.  I wonder if my hood is plastic as well?  Now you have me wondering.



#27 dodge trucker OFFLINE  

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Posted October 11, 2016 - 10:23 PM

well I found out the short-bodied one that I had rebuilt, does have another difference than just being shorter. The armature is also shorter, I put it in and bolted it all into the tractor and I tried to start it and I thought I had a bad Bendix on it...  kinda. The armature is not long enough to let the starter gear spin out far enuf to catch the flywheel; so I wound up taking the new end cap off of that one and swapped it out with the one on what I think is a brand new starter. It sure looked like it inside..

the short one bolted right in too. 

I did squeeze the starter in and out after pulling that side sheet metal off with the engine hanging a few inches above the frame, I did not want to have to (again) disconnect all the cables, linkages, driveshaft,  and cut the middle wires from the voltage regulator again, so I could get the engine completely outta there for better access...

It was a bit of a struggle getting to the nuts that hold the starter to the engine that way especially the bottom one but it wound up being doable w/o taking the motor all the way back outta there.



#28 Billy M ONLINE  

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Posted October 12, 2016 - 08:24 AM

It takes about 1½ hours to pull the engine using an air ratchet, multiple extensions, swivels, etc., and some random ratcheting wrenches for the hard to reach bolts.  I've found that is much easier than trying to wrestle around with the engine still in it.  I put plugs on the voltage regulator wires in case I ever need to pull the engine again.  To each their own.  That keeps my frustration, blood pressure, and voice down!  :D

 

It sounds like you'll make something work between all of those starters!



#29 dodge trucker OFFLINE  

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Posted October 12, 2016 - 12:17 PM

I hope so... as far as pulling the engine again,, I had just bolted it all back in the night before after having had it completely out for a week. All I'd have had to do to separate it from the machine again would be to disconnect the driveshaft and the choke and throttle cables and of course cut the wires again going to the regulator as I did have to completely unbolt the engine to swap starters again but I just left all the above connected and lifted the engine as far as I could without taking that stuff back off again. I have it set back down again, have to raise it back up to put the sheet metal back onto that side. And then bolt it back down again
I hate Redo's

#30 dodge trucker OFFLINE  

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Posted October 13, 2016 - 09:59 PM

ok, its all bolted back in and starts, runs and charges again without blowing that fuse. but the PTO's are still dead. they used to work.  If I jumper straight to the front PTO it back feeds the system  and the red PTO light works and so does the rear PTO...

  I have a jumper (temporary) switch from BAT+ to the coil +, with  this jumper switch  turned off, it wont crank with the key no matter what,  with it on it will crank and run, this jumper switch also doubles as a kill switch. The PTO's used to work fine even with this jumper setup. No more. I have to "hot wire" the PTO to get either to work....

I do have a question, I have never seen an ignition switch with 6 terminals, like this one has... 4? Yeah. 5? Real common but 6... huh?   it has the normal pyramid pattern 5 posts and a 6th terminal along the edge around the circumference,  kind of by itself.

the no crank and the PTO issue both seem to have something to do with the electrical issues.    What is the 6th terminal for?

when I originally got this tractor, the safetys and the ignition switch did work normally with no "work a rounds" very briefly.


Edited by dodge trucker, October 13, 2016 - 10:01 PM.

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