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Started the $25 Bolens. Tran shift pattern?


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#1 Alberta Bolens OFFLINE  

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Posted October 02, 2016 - 08:12 PM

Had some time this weekend so I dragged the Bolens 1000 up to the shop.  I had bought it in April and haven't really had a chance to work on it.  

 

It has a 14 hp Kohler in it.  After cleaning the points, carb, and gas tank It squirting bit gas in carb it fired up.  Took a little bit, but it sucked gas from the tank and runs sounds pretty good.  It will move backwards and fowards in each gear.  Although I think the clutch is bad.  As I was tehtered to the boosting battery on the floor I couldn't really test run it.

 

The shift patteren is kind of strange.   From what I can tell left up is 2nd, Left down is 3rd, Right up is reverse, Right down is 1st.  I took  top of transmission off for a look see.  The gears look good no teeth missing no bad wear spots that I can see.

 

Could it be possable that the shift rails/forks are in the wrong holes giving this the backwards shift pattern?

 

My plan is to use this tran in a 1050 I have.  

 

Here are photos of the gear shifters, The one with labels is the 1050 with bad trans, inside the Trans, and the tractor

Attached Thumbnails

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Edited by Alberta Bolens, October 02, 2016 - 08:13 PM.

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#2 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted October 02, 2016 - 08:27 PM

Shift pattern is the same for both 1000 and 1050 , Could be possible someone didnt properly install the shift forks if they had to replace something before.


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#3 Bruce Dorsi ONLINE  

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Posted October 02, 2016 - 10:45 PM

See page 3-17 in the Tube-Frame Repair Manual linked here:

 

http://gardentractor...anual-552875-1/

 

It appears the two shift forks in your trans are installed backwards.


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#4 Bruce Dorsi ONLINE  

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Posted October 03, 2016 - 08:15 AM

 

Could it be possable that the shift rails/forks are in the wrong holes giving this the backwards shift pattern?

 

My plan is to use this tran in a 1050 I have.  

 

 

 

If you will removing the trans from the 1000 to install it in the 1050, switching the shift forks around will be very easy.

 

Drive the roll pins holding the forks part way (free of the shift rails, but still in the shift forks)  to prevent dropping the roll pins to the bottom of the trans. 

 

Use a 1/2" diameter x approx. 1"   bolt or rod to prevent having to mess with the shift detent balls/springs/pin. 

 

Hold the end of the bolt or rod against the back end of the shift rail, as you slide the shift rail out toward the front of the trans.  ....The bolt will enter the bore where the shift rail was, and hold the detent ball in its proper place.  ...The shift rail does not need to be removed from the trans, but only moved forward enough to free the shift fork.

 

With the shift fork now free of the rail, you can remove the roll pin from the lower side of the hub, so it can be re-installed in the top of the hub.

 

The shift forks are identical, so it doesn't matter which fork goes on which rail.  ....The LH shift rail (closest to trans case) needs to have the hub of the fork toward the front of the trans.  ....The RH shift rail needs to have the hub of the fork toward the rear of the trans.

 

Engage the shift fork into the slot on the gear, slide the shift rail through fork, and back into the rear support.  ...Do not pull the bolt/rod out from the detent, but let the shift rail push it out.

 

Re-insert the roll pins in the shift forks.

 

(It took longer to type this, than it would to do the job.)


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#5 Alberta Bolens OFFLINE  

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Posted October 03, 2016 - 07:18 PM

If you will removing the trans from the 1000 to install it in the 1050, switching the shift forks around will be very easy.

 

Drive the roll pins holding the forks part way (free of the shift rails, but still in the shift forks)  to prevent dropping the roll pins to the bottom of the trans. 

 

Use a 1/2" diameter x approx. 1"   bolt or rod to prevent having to mess with the shift detent balls/springs/pin. 

 

Hold the end of the bolt or rod against the back end of the shift rail, as you slide the shift rail out toward the front of the trans.  ....The bolt will enter the bore where the shift rail was, and hold the detent ball in its proper place.  ...The shift rail does not need to be removed from the trans, but only moved forward enough to free the shift fork.

 

With the shift fork now free of the rail, you can remove the roll pin from the lower side of the hub, so it can be re-installed in the top of the hub.

 

The shift forks are identical, so it doesn't matter which fork goes on which rail.  ....The LH shift rail (closest to trans case) needs to have the hub of the fork toward the front of the trans.  ....The RH shift rail needs to have the hub of the fork toward the rear of the trans.

 

Engage the shift fork into the slot on the gear, slide the shift rail through fork, and back into the rear support.  ...Do not pull the bolt/rod out from the detent, but let the shift rail push it out.

 

Re-insert the roll pins in the shift forks.

 

(It took longer to type this, than it would to do the job.)

Nice>  Thanks for the great info.  :rocker2:

I will be working on it again this week.  see how it goes..  



#6 Alberta Bolens OFFLINE  

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Posted October 10, 2016 - 06:16 PM

So I changed the forks around so I have the proper shift pattern.  I followed the instructions from Bruce almost to the letter.  Kind of.  

Step 1.  As I taking the roll pins out the 1st one was not tight in the shift fork so it immediately dropped into the nether region of the transmission.  Lesson 1.  Put needle nose vise grips on the 2nd roll pin to prevent the same action.  

Step 2.  I used a 1/2 bolt to keep the detent in place.  Should say I tried.  Didn't have the bolt in place properly and the detent dissapered into the black hole.  2nd shaft went better I was prepared and the spring didn't have any pressure on the detent ball.

 

Lucky that I had the transmission removed and turning it upside down on a clean cloth made finding small parts easier.  I could not find or get the roll pin with a magnet.  

 

Getting the detent balls back into place took a bit.  When you remove the allen screw the 1st ball and the spring go pretty easy.  getting the second ball in was more of a challange.  What I ended up doing was taking the 1/2 bolt and cutting a groove/ ramp into it with the angle grinder.  I lined up the ball with the groove and hole, managed to get the ball into place, turned the bolt and used Bruce's method to re insert the shift shaft.  

 

The transmission seems to be in good shape I thing it has been rebuilt at some point.  The top gasket looks newer.  Also the lock pin came out by hand.  Much to my surprise.  

 

I am going to check end play adjustment before I install it in the 1050.

Attached Thumbnails

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#7 Bruce Dorsi ONLINE  

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Posted October 11, 2016 - 08:36 AM

Did you see/find/lose the interlock pin which fits between the detent balls?

 

The pin prevents two speeds (gears) from being engaged at the same time.  ...The balls just engage the grooves in the shift rails to act as detents, but without the pin, two gears can be engaged.



#8 Alberta Bolens OFFLINE  

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Posted October 11, 2016 - 07:00 PM

I did not see one.  It would fit inside the spring?  I had the trans upside down a few times and magnet inside several times.  Wonder if it was lost previously?

 

The linkage will prevent locking into 2 gears unless the shifter pops out of one rail into the other one.  My other 1050 will do that on occasion. 

 

I drove an old 1962 Kenworth with a 4 and 4 with 318 detroit..  The Aux linkage was worn and would pop out so you couldn't shift.  Ussally on a hill so if you stopped you were stuck in the lower holes and if you kept going you hoped to be in a low enough gear that you wouldn't run out of power.  At some point you had to stop get underneath with a pry bar pop the linkage back inot place and start all over.






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