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Bolens G10 charging issue

not charging the battery

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#1 Nascar3244888 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 28, 2016 - 02:13 PM

Hey guys,  I have a G10, with 10hp Briggs engine that has the early dual stage charging circuit in it.  Doesnt charge the battery.  I checked for any voltage from the AC and DC ports and there is absolutely nothing.  Upon saying this I am not to good when it comes to electrical.  I am including a pic of my meter so someone can tell me how to properly check the tractor incase I didnt have set correctly.  Also FYI, there was no fuse in its holder under the starter and I checked for   voltage at those 2 connectors. .  Trying to get this thing ready for winter.  Thanks 

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#2 glgrumpy OFFLINE  

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Posted September 28, 2016 - 04:35 PM

Not real Kosher, so take this as only what I have experienced.  That little connector, white in pix on right, I believe to be just for the lights circuit, not charging. The Fuse cab maybe should have a wire out of center of the cap to go to charging batt?  Not sure where that connects to tractor circuit tho, being to switch or to selinoid if one is there?  Might need a rectifier trapped in a wire to change AC to DC?   Best to find Briggs manual and check the set-up and operation and also will show testing procedures on your engine.  ON that little connector, you need the other half of the white plastic to plug it in there, don't see it on your wire in pictures. OR, maybe that one goes to the fuse and STILL had ends missing on it.


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#3 Nascar3244888 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 28, 2016 - 05:27 PM

Not real Kosher, so take this as only what I have experienced.  That little connector, white in pix on right, I believe to be just for the lights circuit, not charging. The Fuse cab maybe should have a wire out of center of the cap to go to charging batt?  Not sure where that connects to tractor circuit tho, being to switch or to selinoid if one is there?  Might need a rectifier trapped in a wire to change AC to DC?   Best to find Briggs manual and check the set-up and operation and also will show testing procedures on your engine.  ON that little connector, you need the other half of the white plastic to plug it in there, don't see it on your wire in pictures. OR, maybe that one goes to the fuse and STILL had ends missing on it.

the wiring hanging down that is orange in color came from the fuse connector.  Because this tractor has no lights, the white connector is left empty.  If I wanted to add lights I could just plug a wire into the white connector and run it to a light switch.  The fuse holder itself doesnt look good at all, infact it looks like the outside could be a little burned looking but then again the engine is black so maybe it is overspray.  I did probe both connections and found no voltage according to the settings I used on the meter that I took a pic of.  My problem though is even after reading the briggs manual I have, I dont understand if the settings I used on my meter were correct because of my lack of knowledge when it comes to some the settings on my meter,  That is why I was wondering if someone could tell me whether the pic I showed of my meter was on the correct settings to test for voltage at the connectors below the starter ( fuse side for battery charging/ and white side for lights ).  I HATE ELECTRICAL PROBLEMS


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#4 chieffan ONLINE  

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Posted September 28, 2016 - 08:08 PM

Check that fuse cap and make sure there is a good fuse and good connections first.  You need a wire out of that fuse cap, possibly that orange wire with the knot in the end is supposed to go in the cap and soldered to the little plate that should be in there.   Your meter looks like it is set for the right reading.  Next setting clockwise is AC Voltage.


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#5 MyBolens1053 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 28, 2016 - 08:29 PM

Hey guys,  I have a G10, with 10hp Briggs engine that has the early dual stage charging circuit in it.  Doesnt charge the battery.  I checked for any voltage from the AC and DC ports and there is absolutely nothing.  Upon saying this I am not to good when it comes to electrical.  I am including a pic of my meter so someone can tell me how to properly check the tractor incase I didnt have set correctly.  Also FYI, there was no fuse in its holder under the starter and I checked for   voltage at those 2 connectors. .  Trying to get this thing ready for winter.  Thanks 

You do have your meter set for DC Volts. Now the question is "are you testing the positive (red) lead of your meter to those different wire points and the negative (black) lead to chassis ground?


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#6 MyBolens1053 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 28, 2016 - 09:08 PM

Here's a link to the manual that has the wiring diagram on pg. 29

 

http://gardentractor...or-g9-thru-g14/

 

There are two interlock switches from what I can tell. Be sure to check your G10 (Model 1055) Serial Number to match the proper diagram, provided everything is still original.


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#7 Nascar3244888 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 29, 2016 - 10:33 AM

Check that fuse cap and make sure there is a good fuse and good connections first.  You need a wire out of that fuse cap, possibly that orange wire with the knot in the end is supposed to go in the cap and soldered to the little plate that should be in there.   Your meter looks like it is set for the right reading.  Next setting clockwise is AC Voltage.

 

Someone had the orange wire with the knot coming out of the black fuse holder below the starter.  I had a heck of a time trying to twist the black fuse knob out to check for a fuse and upon doing this the wire broke off from the little metal tab inside.  Also upon removing the fuse knob there was no fuse in there at all.  I used my red test lead on my meter set to DC to test the connection that would rest against the fuse coming from the stator and there was no reading what so ever while running the tractor.  I have yet to check AC volts at the light(white wire) connector due to my lack of knowledge of my meter, I had checked for DC at the white wire while the tractor was running and I also found no reading.

 

You do have your meter set for DC Volts. Now the question is "are you testing the positive (red) lead of your meter to those different wire points and the negative (black) lead to chassis ground?

Thanks, and yes I did check them using the method you described


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#8 Nascar3244888 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 29, 2016 - 11:06 AM

Went to briggs and stratton website and found out that my stator does not have any diodes that regulate the the amount of voltage which I kind of found strange since most I have seen had a some sort of diodes or a voltage regulator.  According to the manual the place where the fuse goes is called a diode in the manual.....so now does a fuse or diode go in, or are they the same thing???? Accoding to the briggs manual I have it says the stator is unregulated??


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#9 MyBolens1053 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 29, 2016 - 11:37 AM

Went to briggs and stratton website and found out that my stator does not have any diodes that regulate the the amount of voltage which I kind of found strange since most I have seen had a some sort of diodes or a voltage regulator.  According to the manual the place where the fuse goes is called a diode in the manual.....so now does a fuse or diode go in, or are they the same thing???? Accoding to the briggs manual I have it says the stator is unregulated??

Diodes are directional gates for voltage flow. They are one way valves, in other words. Diodes are tested out of circuit using your Ohms setting of your meter.

 

You should get a DC voltage reading from the wire coming from the flywheel stator when the motor is running, if it is good and should be more than 13 volts. Diodes will drop voltage by 1 or 2 volts.



#10 MyBolens1053 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 29, 2016 - 11:44 AM

I also have to ask why you wish to test lights for AC voltage? Your electrical system is entirely DC 12 volts if it is all factory.



#11 Nascar3244888 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 29, 2016 - 12:48 PM

I also have to ask why you wish to test lights for AC voltage? Your electrical system is entirely DC 12 volts if it is all factory.

I think i am just totally confused when it comes to electrical.  When it came to electrical in auto school I failed miserably years ago.  I just dont understand it.  It is so hard for me.  I really want to understand it.  To me foreign language is easier to learn than this.  I dont understand DC other than I think it means direct current and AC is alternating current ( I think ).  I understand a battery has a positive and negative.  Also I dont understand the difference between volts and amps.  Most of the stuff I learned was from watching someone else do it and then I would repeat what I just saw and thats how I learned, with electrical, I cant "see" it work so I have not even a clue what is going on.


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#12 Bud W ONLINE  

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Posted September 29, 2016 - 01:47 PM

There has to be at least 1 diode in it to make DC to charge the battery and it wouldn't require a regulator (low current charge rate). The headlights could be operated off of AC from the stator. Both require that the engine be running to check them.


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#13 MyBolens1053 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 29, 2016 - 02:44 PM

Here is a website that explains the basics of DC electricity.

http://www.school-fo.../science/dc.htm

 

The garden hose example is the best way to understand.



#14 glgrumpy OFFLINE  

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Posted September 29, 2016 - 04:50 PM

I'm thinking with only ONE wire, the little white term on there that this is DC, with the chassis as ground, NOT ac???  A diode changes AC to DC, by letting only one wave of the AC to pass thru and not be "Alternating" back and forth as this means. SO, one way is block and it becomes DC or Direct Current.  Thing I don't get isn't AC requiring TWO wires  then and not use chassis as ground??  Maybe there are two wires in that fuse holder and then put in a Diode and only ONE wire comes out for charging?  Think you need to be looking at a Briggs rebuild manual to clear this up. Most Briggs parts, even these little items can still be gotten from dealers. I have gotten many small hardware and electrical items from mine for very old engines. Have to order some, but in stock in couple days then. Find the manual AND parts manual for your engine and see what is offered. The parts will show many diff styles of systems and you have to determine Which one is yours and order correct numbers from drawings.


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#15 Nascar3244888 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 29, 2016 - 07:13 PM

I'm thinking with only ONE wire, the little white term on there that this is DC, with the chassis as ground, NOT ac???  A diode changes AC to DC, by letting only one wave of the AC to pass thru and not be "Alternating" back and forth as this means. SO, one way is block and it becomes DC or Direct Current.  Thing I don't get isn't AC requiring TWO wires  then and not use chassis as ground??  Maybe there are two wires in that fuse holder and then put in a Diode and only ONE wire comes out for charging?  Think you need to be looking at a Briggs rebuild manual to clear this up. Most Briggs parts, even these little items can still be gotten from dealers. I have gotten many small hardware and electrical items from mine for very old engines. Have to order some, but in stock in couple days then. Find the manual AND parts manual for your engine and see what is offered. The parts will show many diff styles of systems and you have to determine Which one is yours and order correct numbers from drawings.


OK, I've been going back to my old universal technical institute book and studying some, as well as watching some videos on electric. Starting to sink in again. According to my Briggs L-head manual and the help of everyone I was able to correctly check at least my AC voltage coming from the white connector to the right of the fuse connector. I just wanted to see if I could do it or not and that's the only reason. According to the manual I should see no less than 14 v AC while running the engine at 3600 rpm. I found that I had 15-16v AC range which indicates that there is no issue with that. Unfortunately I have yet to check the output of the charging circuit because I had a blown 10 amp fuse in my meter from the last time I was trying to figure out electrical in school 10 years ago LOL. The Briggs L-head manual says I need to hook my meter in line to check for the correct amount of amps. According to glgrumpy a diode changes AC to DC to charge the battery, so upon saying that do I need to put a diode in the fuse holder before testing it? Also for shits and giggles I tested for AC voltage at the charging circuit and had anywhere from roughly 15 volts at idle to 36v at full throttle. I didn't see any charts in the book for readings of AC voltage on the charging circuit so I don't know if those are good readings or not.




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