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Got my holly grail today


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#16 Gtractor ONLINE  

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Posted September 28, 2016 - 11:00 PM

 I love our's for plowing snow.  It can move a lot more than my Cub Cadets can.

5-6 years ago when scrap was high I saw the seller with a trailer that had 3 implements from this very tractor, pull onto the scales.  He sold the three implements for scrap and I was in the company truck and couldn't stop him. One was a front dozer blade,  one was a sickle mower and I couldn't make out the other.

I mentioned that today and he said the front blade didn't work very well.  Course it might have if there was some wheel weights and tire chains.  :(

I'm so glad scrap is virtually worthless now.  :wallbanging:


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#17 Gtractor ONLINE  

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Posted September 28, 2016 - 11:02 PM

But ----------------------- it's not GREEN!   :D   :D   :D 

Isn't that the point?


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#18 tractorgarden OFFLINE  

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Posted September 28, 2016 - 11:11 PM

56 cub loboy
56 cub loboy

I sure miss mine!


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#19 Gtractor ONLINE  

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Posted September 28, 2016 - 11:19 PM

White grilles look so much better! 


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#20 zippy1 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 28, 2016 - 11:56 PM

Congrats on the low boy. :thumbs:

I've got the cub in a 1956.


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#21 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted September 29, 2016 - 05:22 AM

Every time my wife sees me bring more STUFF home she gives me the LOOK   but I bet if I would show up with a LowBoy it would be different  , that's her favorite tractor too .   I'm glad to hear you got one :thumbs:  


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#22 Cvans ONLINE  

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Posted September 29, 2016 - 09:27 AM

 but I bet if I would show up with a LowBoy it would be different  , that's her favorite tractor too . 

 

Sounds like an open invitation to me. Better jump on it before her tastes change.  :D


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#23 Gtractor ONLINE  

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Posted October 02, 2016 - 05:29 PM

OMG! 

This thing has been kicking my butt. 

Seems like the last tractor I bought kicked my butt too. 

 

Seller said the starter worked when parked but didn't now. I have serious doubts.  He was half right.  It didn't work and isn't going to work without a major rebuild.  I never saw brushes worn down into the brackets that hold them. Usually a starter will quit long before it gets that far.   Not sure the armature will clean up either.  This starter might be toast.    I'm pretty sure dad has an armature lathe buried somewhere.  It likely hasn't seen sunlight since 1984.  Set the starter aside hoping I can buy just the brushes later.

Now I need a crank to see if it'll run.  My Case and Allis cranks won't work.  Gotta be something small.  I made a crank.  Second crank I built in a week. You might remember the other one was for a Kinkade L garden tractor. Garden tractor cranks are too small and won't reach far enough in to catch the crankshaft pulley.

 Making both cranks was a waste of time and effort. 

Neither engine will start on the crank.  I don't blame the cranks.  The old man turning them isn't worth a durn! 

Did notice the crank turns without much resistance. [compression]   :(   Its only something like 9-10 horsepower. My home-brewed crank has way too much throw further adding to the exhaustion of the old man propelling it.

I live at the top of a pretty good hill.  I'll just roll down and dump the clutch. 

The InnerTrashinal hits every time the clutch is dumped but she ain't startin'!   The good news is I lose a lot of momentum every time I dump the clutch. With no ballast the rear tire slides 3 feet before the engine turns over.  Maybe it has more compression that I give it credit for.  Near the bottom of the hill I use the last bit of momentum I have and turn to face back up the hill. 

And then I walk up the hill.  This is backwards.  I walk much better going down hill.

Fire up the Ferguson and retrieve the Cub. 

 

Can't take the hood off without also pulling the gas tank.  For those of you that don't know they welded the hood to the tank at the factory.  Don't ask me why? 

Can't really get to the spark-um-plugs.  I direct my attention to the points again.  More cleaning - I hear a good "snap" when I open the points but standing on my head with the distributor tucked tight into the side of the engine block I can't see squat!  I don't think the points are sparking between the two halves. One half might be sparking against the backing plate in the distributor. 
Not sure of the tractors wiring job,  I hotwire direct from the battery cable to the ballast resister.  Tractor has a brand new 12 volt battery - a big one!    There is a 12 volt coil so running through the ballast resister should be OK to the points. 

I'm ready to try again.

Down the hill we go.  Fires up and runs [kinda] every time but won't stay running.  Finally decide it is going to have to turn much faster and then it has a chance of running on its own.  With a really good run I dump the clutch and she's off.  Put the tranny in reverse because I'm almost out of hill and start the long journey in reverse. At least when it dies it'll be facing the correct way to try again.   Must only be running on three but can occasionally hear another cylinder come and go.  Not much power but it is pulling itself - up the hill no less.

Take it out in the pasture to mow a little.  Mows really good but not enough power to pull the tractor and run the deck.  With a couple pins, couple bolts and a belt,  the 5 foot Woods mower deck is off.  Need it out of the way for now.

Back-er in the shed. Doesn't sound too healthy.  Start pulling plug wires while its running wide open.  3 wires make very little difference.  When I pull the #4 cylinder wire it nearly dies.  Put that wire back on quick!

OK, so its running on one with an occasional assist from the other 3.  :(

Seller told me the rear main seal was out.  Said it'd have not only a drip but a steady stream of oil running. 

He nailed that one.  This thing leaves a puddle everywhere it goes.  When I was buying it I mentioned something about excessive blow-by will make a seal leak like that.  There was no response. 

Gotta pull the hood/gas tank and do a compression test.

With the engine cooled down I can get at the spark plugs enough to remove them.  Take the plugs oput and insert my fancy-schmancey home built crank.  Roll the engine over with a finger in the plug holes one by one.

UH-OH!! 

#2 cylinder has zero compression.  ZERO!

#1 doesn't have much unless the old guy turning the crank really sacrifices an ovary and gets that crank really singing.

Now I gotta get the tank-hood combo out of the way.  1/2 the bolts twist off but otherwise the hood comes off pretty easy.  I'll have to do lots of drilling and tapping when I go to put this sheet metal back on.  :(

With the hood off and easy access to the head I look in the sparkplug holes.  #2 has a valve stuck open. 

HOT DOG!!!

Some P.B. Blaster down the valve stem and a slight whack with a screwdriver and the valve closes.  With several more repetitions the valve commences to working correctly. 

I drag out the compression tester.  #4 is my star cylinder.  Not sure what a flathead is supposed to have but its near 100LBS.   The other 3 are around 50 each.  Hope that improves with some run time.   :(

Tested each spark plug on my Cushman binder engine.  They all fire good so back in the engine they go. Gotta get some more run time to limber things up.  With my 5 quart oil jug portable gas can I'm ready to try again.  

Down the hill - shouldn't need as much speed this time because ALL cylinders have at least some compression. 

Stop 1/2 way down the hill and hook up my jumper wire that I had forgotten.  At this point I bypassed the ballast resister.  I want those points to have a good jolt!!!  With the jumper wire hooked up the engine actually fires!!!

Starts and runs much better.  Still a slight miss/flutter but at least running on 3 and 1/2.

Run it long enough its up to operating temp.  Antifreeze is rolling out a an obvious crack in the cylinder head.  :wallbanging:

The seller kind of forgot to mention it had a cracked head.  I know he knew it was cracked because he slathered high heat silicone on the crack. 

It didn't work!  Now I'm mad!  There is a cub specialty salvage yard right here in Missouri.  Used heads $125.  I think the seller should refund $125 and I'm not too happy.  I better not go and ask.  He acted like he was giving it away as it was.  I thought $950 was about tops for its condition.   ??? 

Run the engine quite a while.  45 minutes or more because I want to blow the cobbs out so I can retest the compression.  Drove it all over the farm.  Look down and right front tire is flat as a pancake.  it held for several days why is it now flat?  Drive back up to the shop and air it up tight.  Its leaking moderately but I want to drive more and check things out.

Clutch, brakes, trans all seem very good.  Tranny is quieter than I figured it'd be.  Crud Cadets with this same tranny are known to get rain water in them and then they get growly to say the least. 

I keep driving and airing up the tire. 

Suddenly it dies for no reason and its not where I can coast start it.  Found my jumper wire ignition had fallen off.    Walk over to the Ferguson.  AS I'm pulling up to the Cub I cut the Fergie too close and a too-long bolt holding the rear wheel weights on snags the sidewall of the cubs left front tire and rips a gash in the sidewall from tread to bead.  

The tantrum starts.   It's bad! 

It had near new 155R12 car radial tires on the front and I just ruined one of them.  :mad2:   Now I have 2 flat front tires. 

Roll it in the shed and close the doors for the night. 

I'm DONE for the day.  

To be continued......


Edited by Gtractor, October 02, 2016 - 08:06 PM.

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#24 Gtractor ONLINE  

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Posted October 02, 2016 - 05:56 PM

This morning I have to get back at it - bad attitude and all.   

Pulled the left front tire.  Get the tube out and its hole is not that bad.  I patch the tube.  The rim is a mess.  been rusted to oblivion and PO wrapped the rim in duct tape to protect the tube from all the rust.  There are a few places the rim is rusted through.  I found a good rim from a walk behind tractor that's 4 inches wide.  The Cub rim is only 2 and 1/2 inches wide.  The car radial tires are really too wide for the stock rim so I use the wider rim.  I clean the inside of the tire real good with carb cleaner and do a little duct taping inside the tire myself.  Then I inflate the tube to the approximate size it will be inside the tire, clean it good and wrap it with duct tape where it won't bulge when aired up.  Mount the tire with the gash on the inside and align the duct tape wrap on the tube with the gash in the sidewall.  Air it up and you can't even tell the tire has been cut.  :smilewink:   No more pressure than it is going to run it'll be OK for now. 
I recently got some nice diamond tread 400-12 tires that'll be perfect when I get to restoring the tractor.  They match the diamond treads on the back perfectly. 

Then I try to figure out why the right front all of a sudden started going flat.   Pull it off and break it down.  This rim is very nice inside!  Has some surface rust but not all pitted and rusted out like the other front rim.  There's a hedge thorn in the tire.  :mad2:   At least I found it.  Patched that tube and I'm ready for another drive.

Coast down the driveway and it fires up and sounds even better than it did yesterday.  :smilewink:  :D  :thumbs:

Obviously hitting on all cylinders, it runs great and sounds very good.  There was some smoke a few days ago when I first got it running but that cleared right up.  No smoke, no knocks and smooth sounding - even firing with good oil pressure.  Hydraulics work perfect and no visible leaks.  Clutch and brakes work perfect.

I haven't retested the compression yet but I will.  Unless its terrible I'll just replace the head and it'll be OK for putting around here and at tractor shows.

Might try to braze the head for now.  That'd save me $125 plus shipping and the gasket. 

We'll see. 

For now I'm very happy! 

Here's a couple of pics.  First one is me out driving without hood and tank.  You can see my 5 quart oil jug gas tank wired on.  Second pic is the crack in the head. 

Lo Boy 1.jpg ,Lo Boy 2.jpg


Edited by Gtractor, October 02, 2016 - 08:00 PM.

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#25 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted October 02, 2016 - 06:20 PM

Great story telling, Kris! I had to read it all! Glad you got it running!


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#26 Gtractor ONLINE  

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Posted October 03, 2016 - 01:12 PM

Thanx Kenny!

Most members are probably asking:  "Whats wrong with that guy"? 

 

I was sitting at the desktop last night and the MRS came to me and said "take these".  Not sure what she gave me but I slept like I was dead.  I usually take Advil PM to sleep but this stuff knocked me out!  Called her at work a while ago and she said it was just the Advil.

I don't believe her.

 

 I wonder if she knows Bill Cosby. :(

 

I wrote before that the #4 cylinder had something real close to 100 pounds.  That seemed too much for a flathead but I didn't double check it at the time.  It isn't nearly that high today. Probably wasn't then - the tractor was in a shed with poor lighting and I was hot and tired.

Now the tractor is in the shop. Good lighting and a fan.   Pulled all the plugs.  Screw in the compression tester.  My home brewed crank has a throw of one foot.  In a completed circle that makes two feet diameter. WAAAAAY too much - but its all I have.  Have to turn the crank much slower than even the starter would turn the engine.  Bring each cylinder over compression 4 times for a maximum reading.  I suppose there should only be 2 compression strokes per test.  Been too many years since I did this kind of work.  It was the late 1990's when I started collecting garden tractors and since that time there has only been one cylinder to deal with.  G-tractors with two cylinders are too new for my taste.  

G tractor,  HMM that might make a neat user name?  :smilewink:

#1 cylinder  65lbs   I'm happy!

#2 cylinder  67lbs   I'm real happy.

#3 cylinder  70lbs   YES!!!

#4 cylinder  71lbs    Now that's more like it! 

 

That's probably where this thing will sit for a while.  Have to work the house furnace over and check antifreeze in all the tractors and vehicles.  That's always a real chore around here.

Today its awfully nice and I hear one of the motorcycles calling my name! 

 


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#27 Cvans ONLINE  

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Posted October 03, 2016 - 02:14 PM

I think more important than the number of compression strokes (4 is a good number) is the fact that you keep both the throttle and the choke wide open. There will come point when the pressure will no longer climb and your done. This has been my finding over the years.


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#28 shorty OFFLINE  

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Posted October 03, 2016 - 04:13 PM

I don't know what all you are great at doing Kris. But you are definitely a great story teller and mechanic! I had to read the whole way through to find out what happens next.
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#29 Cvans ONLINE  

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Posted October 03, 2016 - 05:32 PM

 But you are definitely a great story teller

 

Look out Harry Potter her come Kris  :D


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#30 MGP59DB OFFLINE  

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Posted October 03, 2016 - 05:52 PM

Great story - I can tell you must really like this thing and want to know what you need to do to it, to at least get it where you can have fun with it.

You look good on it , even without the hood :smilewink:


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