This thing has been kicking my butt.
Seems like the last tractor I bought kicked my butt too.
Seller said the starter worked when parked but didn't now. I have serious doubts. He was half right. It didn't work and isn't going to work without a major rebuild. I never saw brushes worn down into the brackets that hold them. Usually a starter will quit long before it gets that far. Not sure the armature will clean up either. This starter might be toast. I'm pretty sure dad has an armature lathe buried somewhere. It likely hasn't seen sunlight since 1984. Set the starter aside hoping I can buy just the brushes later.
Now I need a crank to see if it'll run. My Case and Allis cranks won't work. Gotta be something small. I made a crank. Second crank I built in a week. You might remember the other one was for a Kinkade L garden tractor. Garden tractor cranks are too small and won't reach far enough in to catch the crankshaft pulley.
Making both cranks was a waste of time and effort.
Neither engine will start on the crank. I don't blame the cranks. The old man turning them isn't worth a durn!
Did notice the crank turns without much resistance. [compression] Its only something like 9-10 horsepower. My home-brewed crank has way too much throw further adding to the exhaustion of the old man propelling it.
I live at the top of a pretty good hill. I'll just roll down and dump the clutch.
The InnerTrashinal hits every time the clutch is dumped but she ain't startin'! The good news is I lose a lot of momentum every time I dump the clutch. With no ballast the rear tire slides 3 feet before the engine turns over. Maybe it has more compression that I give it credit for. Near the bottom of the hill I use the last bit of momentum I have and turn to face back up the hill.
And then I walk up the hill. This is backwards. I walk much better going down hill.
Fire up the Ferguson and retrieve the Cub.
Can't take the hood off without also pulling the gas tank. For those of you that don't know they welded the hood to the tank at the factory. Don't ask me why?
Can't really get to the spark-um-plugs. I direct my attention to the points again. More cleaning - I hear a good "snap" when I open the points but standing on my head with the distributor tucked tight into the side of the engine block I can't see squat! I don't think the points are sparking between the two halves. One half might be sparking against the backing plate in the distributor.
Not sure of the tractors wiring job, I hotwire direct from the battery cable to the ballast resister. Tractor has a brand new 12 volt battery - a big one! There is a 12 volt coil so running through the ballast resister should be OK to the points.
I'm ready to try again.
Down the hill we go. Fires up and runs [kinda] every time but won't stay running. Finally decide it is going to have to turn much faster and then it has a chance of running on its own. With a really good run I dump the clutch and she's off. Put the tranny in reverse because I'm almost out of hill and start the long journey in reverse. At least when it dies it'll be facing the correct way to try again. Must only be running on three but can occasionally hear another cylinder come and go. Not much power but it is pulling itself - up the hill no less.
Take it out in the pasture to mow a little. Mows really good but not enough power to pull the tractor and run the deck. With a couple pins, couple bolts and a belt, the 5 foot Woods mower deck is off. Need it out of the way for now.
Back-er in the shed. Doesn't sound too healthy. Start pulling plug wires while its running wide open. 3 wires make very little difference. When I pull the #4 cylinder wire it nearly dies. Put that wire back on quick!
OK, so its running on one with an occasional assist from the other 3.
Seller told me the rear main seal was out. Said it'd have not only a drip but a steady stream of oil running.
He nailed that one. This thing leaves a puddle everywhere it goes. When I was buying it I mentioned something about excessive blow-by will make a seal leak like that. There was no response.
Gotta pull the hood/gas tank and do a compression test.
With the engine cooled down I can get at the spark plugs enough to remove them. Take the plugs oput and insert my fancy-schmancey home built crank. Roll the engine over with a finger in the plug holes one by one.
#2 cylinder has zero compression. ZERO!
#1 doesn't have much unless the old guy turning the crank really sacrifices an ovary and gets that crank really singing.
Now I gotta get the tank-hood combo out of the way. 1/2 the bolts twist off but otherwise the hood comes off pretty easy. I'll have to do lots of drilling and tapping when I go to put this sheet metal back on.
With the hood off and easy access to the head I look in the sparkplug holes. #2 has a valve stuck open.
Some P.B. Blaster down the valve stem and a slight whack with a screwdriver and the valve closes. With several more repetitions the valve commences to working correctly.
I drag out the compression tester. #4 is my star cylinder. Not sure what a flathead is supposed to have but its near 100LBS. The other 3 are around 50 each. Hope that improves with some run time.
Tested each spark plug on my Cushman binder engine. They all fire good so back in the engine they go. Gotta get some more run time to limber things up. With my 5 quart oil jug portable gas can I'm ready to try again.
Down the hill - shouldn't need as much speed this time because ALL cylinders have at least some compression.
Stop 1/2 way down the hill and hook up my jumper wire that I had forgotten. At this point I bypassed the ballast resister. I want those points to have a good jolt!!! With the jumper wire hooked up the engine actually fires!!!
Starts and runs much better. Still a slight miss/flutter but at least running on 3 and 1/2.
Run it long enough its up to operating temp. Antifreeze is rolling out a an obvious crack in the cylinder head.
The seller kind of forgot to mention it had a cracked head. I know he knew it was cracked because he slathered high heat silicone on the crack.
It didn't work! Now I'm mad! There is a cub specialty salvage yard right here in Missouri. Used heads $125. I think the seller should refund $125 and I'm not too happy. I better not go and ask. He acted like he was giving it away as it was. I thought $950 was about tops for its condition. ???
Run the engine quite a while. 45 minutes or more because I want to blow the cobbs out so I can retest the compression. Drove it all over the farm. Look down and right front tire is flat as a pancake. it held for several days why is it now flat? Drive back up to the shop and air it up tight. Its leaking moderately but I want to drive more and check things out.
Clutch, brakes, trans all seem very good. Tranny is quieter than I figured it'd be. Crud Cadets with this same tranny are known to get rain water in them and then they get growly to say the least.
I keep driving and airing up the tire.
Suddenly it dies for no reason and its not where I can coast start it. Found my jumper wire ignition had fallen off. Walk over to the Ferguson. AS I'm pulling up to the Cub I cut the Fergie too close and a too-long bolt holding the rear wheel weights on snags the sidewall of the cubs left front tire and rips a gash in the sidewall from tread to bead.
The tantrum starts. It's bad!
It had near new 155R12 car radial tires on the front and I just ruined one of them. Now I have 2 flat front tires.
Roll it in the shed and close the doors for the night.
I'm DONE for the day.
To be continued......
Edited by Gtractor, October 02, 2016 - 08:06 PM.