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Pretty much narrowed down what i want...a few more questions...


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#1 DZG OFFLINE  

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Posted September 28, 2016 - 08:59 AM

Ok, after thinking long and hard on it for a week or so, im really leaning toward a 149.

But heres my questions...

How do they mow? As in overall cut quality and speed of cutting? I know it wouldnt hang with my ZTR but do they do about like an average garden tractor?

How would one do pulling a 950lb lawn roller while mowing average length grass? I used to pull said roller with a 2185 MTD cub (18hp command twin/hydro) and it did fine, but i dont recall mowing while rolling.

How well do they chew through thick, tall grass?

Id like to get a blade eventually, mainly for mpving gravel/dirt. Im assuming they hold up well to this type of service? It wouldnt be a daily thing.

I also would like to pull it every now and again, maybe once or twice a year, is this a death sentence for them?

And last but not least, whats a fair price for a running/driving/mowing tractor in decent shape? Im looking to spend 4-600 bucks.

Thanks.

Edited by DZG, September 28, 2016 - 09:00 AM.

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#2 Dane in PA OFFLINE  

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Posted September 28, 2016 - 10:46 AM

I'm going to break this down:

Ok, after thinking long and hard on it for a week or so, im really leaning toward a 149. 

Not a bad decision.  They're good, hardy tractors --though not my personal first-draft-pick as an all-around machine.

But heres my questions...

How do they mow? As in overall cut quality and speed of cutting? I know it wouldnt hang with my ZTR but do they do about like an average garden tractor?


They cut well for a machine built in the early-to-mid '70s.  The 44/50 C and A decks both do great jobs when they're dialed in.  That being said, you can easily get $500 into a deck to get it mowing perfectly --if you start with a straight shell.  Some of the best jobs I've seen have been with 44 or 50 As and Cs. 

How would one do pulling a 950lb lawn roller while mowing average length grass? I used to pull said roller with a 2185 MTD cub (18hp command twin/hydro) and it did fine, but i dont recall mowing while rolling.
 

This will depend entirely on your property and terrain.  Hills?  You want weights and good tires, and to give her a rest when she needs it.  Flat ground?  As long as you're not mowing 5+ acres, you'll be okay.  Just be smart.  Most rollers don't weight over 300lbs for a reason.  950lbs is WAY overkill, but you do you.  That roller outweighs the tractor by almost 1/3.

How well do they chew through thick, tall grass?

 

Totally depends on how fast you want to get it done.  Mow more often, you move faster.  Mow less often, you move slower.

 
Simple physics applied here.

 

Id like to get a blade eventually, mainly for mpving gravel/dirt. Im assuming they hold up well to this type of service? It wouldnt be a daily thing.

 

The Cub Cadet snow blades are one of the strongest and most resilient out there.  The tractor will have no issues with it, as it mounts directly to the frame --you'll be find moving gravel, dirt, snow, etc...  

 

Remember: it's a garden tractor.  

And a reminder: weight is your friend when using a plow.

 

I also would like to pull it every now and again, maybe once or twice a year, is this a death sentence for them?

As I said in the last one of your posts that I commented on, it isn't a death sentence --but most people don't recommend it.  It is excess strain on the machine, and will shorten its overall life span.  It will also generate a lot of heat, which will shorten the life of the pump and could lead to premature failure.  

And last but not least, whats a fair price for a running/driving/mowing tractor in decent shape? Im looking to spend 4-600 bucks.

$4-600 is a decent price for a good machine to get you started.  It won't be 100%, but none of these tractors are when you buy them.  Heck, they weren't new.  Be ready to put money into it as you go, and be realistic with your expectations.  

This can also vary greatly based on your area. $450 for a 149 with a deck is a really fair price.  I can get $550+ out of them on occasion, but some places you can't touch one for less than that.  

Thanks. 
 

Don't know if my $0.12 are worth much, but you're welcome.
(It was $0.02, adjusted for inflation.)


Edited by Dane in PA, September 28, 2016 - 01:25 PM.

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#3 DZG OFFLINE  

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Posted September 28, 2016 - 11:07 AM

Perfect.

I forgot i had asked about pulling in my other post :/

But either way, i might be off on the weight of the roller, but i know its atleast 700, but 950 sticks in my mind. Usually we pull it with a 48 Cub which doesnt even know its there (since the 2185 crapped out).

I was wondering cause come next spring i have an account or two that want their yard rolled, but even the biggest area is like 2 acres and flat as a piece of paper.

As far as the tall grass goes, once again i get a call to come estimate a yard and its overgrown because "my mower broke X weeks ago", and my zero turn does it but it seems like its hard on it, and since thats my primary mower i dont wanna tear it up faster then i have to, plus i figure an old IH cub is built much stouter then my RZT.

Also, yes i wouldnt expect it to work like an actual tractor, but hopefully better then a shovel lol

#4 LilysDad OFFLINE  

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Posted September 28, 2016 - 11:53 AM

 The 44/50 C and A decks both do great jobs when they're dialed in.  That being said, you can easily get $500 into a deck to get it mowing perfectly --if you start with a straight shell.

Dane, would you describe the process you are doing to get a deck perfect?


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#5 chieffan ONLINE  

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Posted September 28, 2016 - 12:30 PM

If you roll a lawn in the spring when the ground is soft you don't need 900 + lbs. to do the job.  If you roll mid summer it won't do the job if the roller weights1900 lbs.  The ground is just to dry and hard then, unless you have had rain every week.  You would probably be better off getting a good gear drive tractor for the lawn rolling.  On the tall grass, these are lawn mowers on a Garden tractor, not bush hogs.  Just my opinion which probably isn't worth much.



#6 DZG OFFLINE  

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Posted September 28, 2016 - 01:03 PM

If you roll a lawn in the spring when the ground is soft you don't need 900 + lbs. to do the job. If you roll mid summer it won't do the job if the roller weights1900 lbs. The ground is just to dry and hard then, unless you have had rain every week. You would probably be better off getting a good gear drive tractor for the lawn rolling. On the tall grass, these are lawn mowers on a Garden tractor, not bush hogs. Just my opinion which probably isn't worth much.


The lawn rolling would be done in spring, and the roller is the kind you fill so i wouldnt have to fill it all the way, i just usually do.

Also, yes i know its not a bush hog. I dont plan on like, trail cutting with it, just like i said if i think something will be to rough on my zero turn.

#7 Dane in PA OFFLINE  

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Posted September 28, 2016 - 01:15 PM

Dane, would you describe the process you are doing to get a deck perfect?

Trouble is finding a straight shell, but after you go through new blades, belts, bearings/spindles, pulleys, etc...  you can get into some deep cash if you overhaul it.  At least, if you're using OEM stuff.

One of those bearings and shafts, not including the housing --from Cadet-- is nearly $165.

When I say perfectly, I mean within the parameters of the deck's capabilities.  Obviously there is no "perfect" deck or cut.


Edited by Dane in PA, September 28, 2016 - 01:15 PM.

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#8 LilysDad OFFLINE  

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Posted September 28, 2016 - 06:10 PM

One problem I have with the Wheel Horse tractors I favor; back in the 70s home owners believed in scalping their lawns. The highest setting on my deck gives me a 2 1/2" cut. To correct this, I replace the rear guide wheels with larger ones.


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#9 IHCubGuy OFFLINE  

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Posted September 28, 2016 - 09:11 PM

Like Dane said the 44 and 50 inch cut decks work good when set up right.  These decks have a rounded end shell to them.  The decks which I refer to as "square" end deck do not cut very great at all.  Mainly because they have one large center blade and two small outer blades.  These decks have a cast center bracket that bolts to the deck shell and is the carry point for the front deck hangers and also has the anti scalp roller on it as well.  The were available in 38, 42, and 48 inch cutting width.  I switched to a Hustler zero turn last year after many years of unsatisfactory mowing results with a 42" "square" end deck.

 

As for a 149 they are a great tractor and Dane hit the high points on target.  Good luck.


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#10 nitro OFFLINE  

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Posted September 29, 2016 - 10:57 AM

The 44" under my 1450 does a good job for me, but I don't know that I would use it in a business.  It likes to scalp over the uneven stuff because of the width (lotta tree stumps buried around here).  I heard the 46GT decks work with a pulley change, and I'm looking into that for next year (because my 44 is just about worn out...nothing lasts forever).

 

If I had to buy my 1450 again, I would probably have bought a 149.  They are both worth having though.


Edited by nitro, September 29, 2016 - 10:59 AM.

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#11 DZG OFFLINE  

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Posted September 29, 2016 - 11:59 AM

The 44" under my 1450 does a good job for me, but I don't know that I would use it in a business. It likes to scalp over the uneven stuff because of the width (lotta tree stumps buried around here). I heard the 46GT decks work with a pulley change, and I'm looking into that for next year (because my 44 is just about worn out...nothing lasts forever).

If I had to buy my 1450 again, I would probably have bought a 149. They are both worth having though.


I wouldnt use it as a primary mower for my business, atleast for mowing, just only if i get an overgrown yard id run over it with the deck up high to knock it down enough that it wont beat my zero turn up.




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