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Jim Dandy Briggs 19 Crankshaft Wear


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#1 bearbon OFFLINE  

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Posted September 22, 2016 - 02:06 PM

Hi Folks, I've spent the last few weeks refurbishing a 1960 Jim Dandy. I had to have the Briggs model 19 engine bored .030 over with new piston and rings. This morning I was reassembling the engine and discovered the crank journal was worn way past the minimum size for turning down and getting an undersized rod so now I'm stuck. I can't find a used or new crank and haven't even tried to find a rod. I was just wondering what the absolute minimum I could have the crank turned down and install a split bronze bushing in the rod big end. The top rod end is fine. Other than that I did find a used 19 on eBay but it's not running and I don't want to spend over a hundred clams to see if it's in any better shape. Dang! (the mild version of what I originally said)



#2 MiCarl ONLINE  

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Posted September 22, 2016 - 02:46 PM

If all else fails I believe it can be built up by a welder and re-ground.  Won't be cheap.



#3 Xrperry ONLINE  

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Posted September 22, 2016 - 03:02 PM

just wondering is a mod 14 crank same as mod 19? i have a running one dont know the model. it has a lot of what sounds like valve train noise.smokes a little, complete except for sheet metal with model name on it



#4 glgrumpy OFFLINE  

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Posted September 22, 2016 - 03:14 PM

Old guy in shop by me used to be able to take about any small rod and machine to fit inserts, so know that can be done. Not sure if there is hardness issue on a crank journal that does not allow deep machining or not?  Antiques you don't get much for parts choices and have to Make or work with what you have many times. Bill Cunningham in the PK forums or on Yahoo forum does some machining of items and creates majic, might try to find him. He is in Indiana. He works with the early PK's.  What about asking at the Racing engine sites?  Google search for those, they do Much in changing from stock engines on those groups.



#5 jimmy G ONLINE  

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Posted September 22, 2016 - 03:24 PM

just wondering is a mod 14 crank same as mod 19? i have a running one dont know the model. it has a lot of what sounds like valve train noise.smokes a little, complete except for sheet metal with model name on it

I think you are correct on the 14-19 just bore different

#6 Xrperry ONLINE  

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Posted September 22, 2016 - 03:29 PM

the pto of the crank is 3/4 x 3 and a 3/16 key



#7 Username OFFLINE  

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Posted September 22, 2016 - 07:00 PM

I might have a crank for a bushing engine but it might be different for a bearing engine in which I believe you have.


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#8 bearbon OFFLINE  

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Posted September 22, 2016 - 10:53 PM

Thanks for the ideas guys. Since I'm going to need the crank journal turned down I've decided to get technical and bore the rod to accept a split bushing. Of all the suggestions on how to do this I like this idea best ( http://theoldmotor.com/?p=48268 ) and it is actually the simplest, as long as I keep the tolerances right on. Nice challenge for my machining skills and really nothing to lose. It will be what they call a crush fit but I'll add anti rotation tabs anyway.


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#9 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted September 23, 2016 - 07:41 AM

How much undersized is the crankshaft ? Since its getting ground anyway would it be easier to have it welded up and machined to factory size ? I had a crankshaft welded and ground years ago but there might not even be machine shops that do that work anymore . The place that did mine was in NJ. Clinton Square was the name but they might be out of business now .

#10 bearbon OFFLINE  

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Posted September 23, 2016 - 11:06 PM

I'm taking it to a shop that specializes in spray weld build up and regrinding crankshafts but he warned that on a small crank like a Briggs there's a danger of heat warping the crank so he'll just take enough off to clean up the journal and make it round again. I have a horizontal mill and slitting wheels to make the bearings. I got a long length of bushing from McMaster-Carr so I can hold it in a lathe collet with enough exposed to turn the ID and OD to size and part it off with no problem. I hope.....


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#11 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted September 24, 2016 - 06:34 AM

IF the crankshaft was only going to be a few thousands smaller then the closest undersize connecting rod could you mill the mating surface until you have enough to bore it to the crankshaft size ?

#12 bearbon OFFLINE  

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Posted September 25, 2016 - 07:26 PM

There's only one undersize rod listed but the wear is beyond the size that the smaller rod would fit - even if I could find one.


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#13 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted September 26, 2016 - 05:27 AM

I read that link you posted , are going to babbit the bearing like that post or try to machine the correct thickness to have once the material from the cutter is accounted for ?   I've never made ones like were in that link only ones that started in haves and not that type of shell inserts .



#14 bearbon OFFLINE  

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Posted September 26, 2016 - 11:30 AM

No babbit. I'm just going to use the method of turning the ID and OD to the size of the reground crank plus the width of the slits. I wont add as much extra crush allowance as he did because it's only about a one inch sleeve and I'm going to try adding lock tabs on the shell halves and notches for them in the rod. I'll only add enough extra so I can hand fit the halves using plastigauge.


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