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Sovereign 18 bypass issue, I think?


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#1 tddeangelo OFFLINE  

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Posted September 15, 2016 - 12:18 PM

Hi all,

 

Very new here, and new to these tractors. 

 

I bought a Sovereign 18 in used but fair to good condition. No beauty queen, but it runs well, and drove up on the trailer like a champ, deck lift worked great, etc. 

 

Got it home in the dark as it turned out, and decided my better/safer idea was to use the hydro bypass and roll it back off the ramps in the dark rather than attempt to drive it off. The bypass worked fine as near as I can tell, and it rolled off like I expected (engine off, pressed the bypass down to disengage, and it rolled just fine like I expected). 

 

I'm use to my 2012 Husqvarna lawn tractor with the disengage lever on the back that is pulled out to disengage, pushed in to re-engage. I "assumed" this was the same basic concept...but maybe too big an assumption?

 

Anyway, with it off the ramps and on the ground, I fired it up and was going to drive it to my shed, except none of the hydraulics worked, nor did it make any effort to move in either direction when I moved the drive lever. Now, it had just done this like a champ no more than 15 minutes prior. 

 

Some googling led me to a forum (I don't think it was this one, but I don't know anymore, I didn't save the link) where a user mentioned that sometimes the bypass pistons don't come back up like they are supposed to, so I looked and they are indeed both pushed all the way down, even with the bypass lever/whatever it is in the engaged/up position. 

 

They didn't easily move up (motor was off), and I didn't fool with it in the dark and later at night, I just let it sit for the time being till I could determine the problem/solution. 

 

First- Am I barking up the right tree here? 

 

Second- If yes to the first question, is this a simple thing to correct?

 

I got the tractor with a dozer blade for a decent enough price, so I'm hoping I didn't do anything to cost myself a ton of money on a repair here....

 

Thanks for any help! :)



#2 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted September 15, 2016 - 12:47 PM

:wave: Welcome to the forum! Sounds like they are just stuck down, but I'm not familiar with these.


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#3 crittersf1 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 15, 2016 - 12:48 PM

:welcometogttalk: :camera: Your valves are stuck


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#4 tddeangelo OFFLINE  

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Posted September 15, 2016 - 12:54 PM

Thanks!

 

So.....million dollar question--- how do I "unstick" them?

 

The tractor I got is my first adventure beyond a standard lawn mower/lawn tractor. So far, I'm stoked about this tractor. Just seems like it's built like a tank. 

 

It has peeling paint on the deck, but doesn't have any apparent rust, everything looks in good condition, the engine runs like nothing I've used before (in a good way)....and the dozer blade will hopefully help me not shovel snow this winter. 

 

Need to look for a rear tiller toward spring, as the wife wants a bigger garden and I hate tilling with a walk-behind. 

 

I found it from a local guy who buys/fixes/resells tractors with the dozer blade, wheel weights, and 48" deck for $450 and figured it was probably worth that? 


Edited by tddeangelo, September 15, 2016 - 12:57 PM.


#5 crittersf1 OFFLINE  

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Posted September 15, 2016 - 01:02 PM

Sometimes you can tap the housing with a screwdriver handle and they will come up.


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#6 tddeangelo OFFLINE  

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Posted September 15, 2016 - 01:04 PM

OK, thanks.  :thumbs:

 

Engine on or off?

 

Do they need to be lubricated or any kind of break-free on them to get them to pop?



#7 Eric ONLINE  

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Posted September 15, 2016 - 01:38 PM

Not sure of the valves used here but it would not harm anything to spray pb blaster on them sometimes it helps on the valves on older cub cadet hydraulic release valves. Cleaning them up may also help afterwards as I have come across quite a few transmissions that have never seen a rag or any other sort of attention, this leaves crud to build up and said crud won't allow the movement necessary.
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#8 tddeangelo OFFLINE  

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Posted September 15, 2016 - 01:39 PM

Got it....thank you!

 

I'll give it a go this afternoon and see how it goes. 


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#9 Eric ONLINE  

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Posted September 15, 2016 - 01:40 PM

Engine should not be on while your working on the back end or anything else where a sudden movement could cause the tractor to pop into gear or hydraulics to actuate.
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#10 tddeangelo OFFLINE  

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Posted September 15, 2016 - 02:02 PM

Only reason I ask is I came across something in my googling to that effect. Didn't think it was quite right, but figured I'd check. 



#11 Eric ONLINE  

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Posted September 15, 2016 - 02:05 PM

You will be fine using pb blaster on the valves. Just curious, do they look like two small round buttons?

#12 glgrumpy ONLINE  

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Posted September 15, 2016 - 02:07 PM

If like my one that I worked on, they are on top of hydro? Big push plate on the tilt-up fender section that pushes on them and has spring to come back up?? The valves should pop -up when started, but many times don't because they rust some and get little use really. I wire brush the area they are in and the tops of the valves where you see the middle buttons sitting, but down in now. Spray with PB or any penetrant oil. Tap them very carefully with a plastic hammer or wood between metal hammer to work them. If don't pop up right away, leave after another spray and come back later. If they are starting to pop-up, but not all the way, starting the engine may make them come all way up. Don't be grabbing with pliers and mark the shaft/button up!  Have had them where you had to remove the valves, they unscrew pretty easy with big socket and clean them in mineral spirits or such and work them till they pop open again. Work them several times while out and should be popping up/down easy after cleaning. Replace them and test. Don't get dirt in the valve holes while removing and off.


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#13 tddeangelo OFFLINE  

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Posted September 15, 2016 - 02:18 PM

Yep, you described the setup I have to a "T". 

 

 

I GENTLY gave a light tug with a pliers last night, made some real slight marks, not much at all, and said to myself "stop before you do something stupid...or stupidER". 

 

I'll work on them this afternoon and do as suggested here on this thread. Thank Heaven I found this place...you all are a huge help!


Edited by tddeangelo, September 15, 2016 - 02:20 PM.


#14 boyscout862 ONLINE  

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Posted September 15, 2016 - 02:19 PM

Welcome to GTT. That is a really good tractor and you should do some research on it. Our Manuals Section has alot of Simplicity Manuals. You will need to determine which tillers will fit yours and what pto is needed. Good Luck, Rick

 

BTW we like pics.


Edited by boyscout862, September 15, 2016 - 02:20 PM.


#15 tddeangelo OFFLINE  

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Posted September 15, 2016 - 02:27 PM

Welcome to GTT. That is a really good tractor and you should do some research on it. Our Manuals Section has alot of Simplicity Manuals. You will need to determine which tillers will fit yours and what pto is needed. Good Luck, Rick

 

BTW we like pics.

 

Thanks! I like what I have seen of it so far. 

 

I got it after a bunch of other things I had to get done yesterday, so it was flat dark when I got home. I'll try to grab some pics this afternoon for you all. 

 

I have a lot of jobs this could help me with....so I'm looking forward to getting to work with it. 

 

I have to get into the manuals section and get to figuring out how the deck comes on/off, the dozer blade on/off, etc. Then look at what tillers I should be shopping for, etc. Lots to do. :)


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